40 s&w Glock Cast

[x101airborne]

Although i am about to go to bed, i wanted some interesting opinions for when i am feeding my son at 0300. I have a Glock factory mod 22 in 40 s&w and have purchased the 170 gr. Lee 6-pot die. I have heard a lot about Glocks leading :groner:and wanted to know if anyone has had any success preventing this (other than ditching the Glock):holysheep. As a former PO, I need to practice and j-word bullets are too expensive. I have the Redding GRx resizing die, so the bulged head is not an issue. Any advice is appreciated. :killingpc

[mooman76]

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?t=33855

[HammerMTB]

I'm using the same mold as you are for .40S&W and 10MM rounds. Neither leads appreciably. There is a scant fleck or 2 of lead after 2-300 round matches. My .40 is loaded major, and the 10MM is hotter still.
Boolits sized .401, I used to use Javelina but now use LLA for ease of lubing.
Both Glock and aftermarket bbls are used, no difference in the 2.

[MakeMineA10mm]

I've shot many thousands of rounds of hot 9mm lead-bullet ammo through my Glock 17, and it has been fine. HOWEVER, a man much smarter than I was able to produce extreme pressure indications with only a few rounds over 100 through his Glock with lead bullets.

The bottom line is that no matter what brand name is on the side of the slide (because HK and others are also using polygonal rifling now), lead bullets being used in them need to be monitored VERY closely. If your gun has an issue with lead, you need to buy an aftermarket barrel. (Good aftermarkets barrels are around $100; not too bad.) If you don't want to test, you really have two choices:

1. Buy the aftermarket barrel anyway, or
2. Wonder if next time is the time your barrel is going to ka-Boom. (Not saying it automatically will, but the distraction of never knowing will ruin your concentration on the front sight...)

[Doby45]

I got a good Storm Lake barrel for my G23 and I worry about nothing..

[82nd airborne]

101, Although it cost more money, aftermarket, traditionally rifled barrels are not expensive and can save you some headache.

[truckmsl]

I've shot many 10's of thousands of cast through .40 glocks, both stock and aftermarket barrels. The only reason I've gone to aftermarket barrel is because it's easier on the brass due to the tighter chamber. I reload the brass many times. I use water dropped boolits and shoot mostly target loads and get no leading with either stock or aftermarket barrels using 401 sized conventionally lubed boolits. I generally shoot 200 rounds each outing, and clean afterwards - no leading at all.

[chris in va]

FWIW, I was all prepared to get a LW barrel for my 21 SF from what I read about leading, but wanted to try the stock barrel first.

I realize 40 is completely different from 45acp, but after 400 rounds last range session of air dropped boolits lubed with 45-45-10, there was ZERO leading and it looked just as shiny as before the range trip. I haven't experimented with hot loads yet, this was just typical low-mid charge rounds.

[Fixxah]

Just get the aftermarket bbl and be done with it.

[yobohadi]

I have been shooting a Lee 175g tumble lube cast with water quenched wheel weights and sized down to .401 with Lee Alox out of my Glock 22 and 27 original barrels for 2 years now with minimal leading. I find it is a pretty accurate bullet pushed by Ramshot Silhouette at 5.5 grains.

Just steer clear of max loads and inspect your brass and you should be fine. I have lost count how many times I have reloaded the same 40 brass, 5th or 6th on some of it.

I say try it and work up an accurate minimal leading load before you spend the money on an after market barrel.