PDA

View Full Version : Lining a Barrel?



dk17hmr
09-18-2006, 11:12 PM
I have a nef Handi rifle, absoultly love the gun. But the chambering I want I cant get because they dont make it. They dont even have a smaller cartridge of the same caliber I could just ream out.

I am really wanting a 25-35 and not as much but would be fun 25-20. There are 2 options I can think of for getting the rimmed 25 calibers. Buy a smaller barrel 22 hornet or 223 and boring them out and chambering for desired cartridge, BUT that is going to be expensive and I couldnt do much of that work myself.

Option #2 buy a 12 gauge barrel cut it off to about 8" bore it out to .75 buy a barrel blank turn one end down to to fit the 12gauge barrel cut to length and finish it. Weld/JB-weld it into the barrel stub. I could do most of this work myself if I could get my hands on a good lathe. Then of course drill and tap for a scope mount. I think this could be a fun project, all though I dont have the funds to do it because college is going to be starting back up here in a week.

Ok for the question. I know it has been done before maybe not exactly what I am thinkin of but I have seen a 32-20 barrel lining a 12 gauge double barrel shot gun. Has anyone done something like this, any pointers if I ever get around to do this?

I have a feeling it wont be as accurate as a bored barrel but it would be a deer rifle. Most of my deer are taken at less then 50 yards.

KCSO
09-19-2006, 10:08 AM
You really need to invest in Gunsmithing Kinks #2 from Brownell's. This is the handbook on various relining projects. Some pointers... If you use a shotgun action you will need to bush the firing pin for rifle ctgs. For bonding I prefer acraglass gell and you will need some disposable brushes to spread it. When you buy your liner consider cutting a inch or so off of each end so you get the best bore. Liners are available from Redman's for 25-20 and 25-35. Otherwise check GPC and buy old barrels and turn them down into liners. As to accuracy a good lining job will shoot every bit as well as a regular barrel. I have made a couple of old shotguns into 218 bee and they will throw under 1" at 100 yards.

dbldblu
09-19-2006, 07:39 PM
I have done exactly what you are asking with my Handi-Rifle. I used a 20Ga barrel as is and lined it/chambered it to 357 Max. I found the 20 Ga barrel and the 357 barrel on flea-bay. I don't see any advantage to cutting off the shotgun barrel - just make the insert fit inside and glue it in. I used epoxy. My insert is correctly headspaced without the epoxy. The epoxy just keeps it from rotating. I don't think the Handi-Rifle will need the firing pin bushed as they already chamber them in rifle cartridges. I was able to get an extractor (ejector actually) from Brownells that would work for the 357 cartridge.

StrawHat
09-20-2006, 04:02 PM
...Option #2 buy a 12 gauge barrel cut it off to about 8" bore it out to .75...

I am thinking the feds might have an issue with that barrel length but I am not a legal type. Just a thought.

dk17hmr
09-21-2006, 12:00 PM
I have thought about that but, as long as it is permanently attached I dont think it would be a problem. Much like a 11.5" barrel with a 5.5" flash hider on an AR-15.

Bret4207
09-21-2006, 02:58 PM
First- Find out what diameter the liner is. Then figure which barrel is the closest fit. A 20 ga barrel is about .650-.675 something like that. I know the 32/20 liner I bought requires a 13mm (.500+) hole, so 12 ga is going to be WAY big for a 25 cal liner.

I just looked at the Brownells catalog and Redmonds 25 cal liner requires a .437 hole. Seems like a 45-70 barrel would be about right. A 410 shotgun barrel would need reaming. Mind you, thats a 25/20 liner. A 25/35 liner will be bigger. Either way find the diameter and pick the barrel closest to it. Save you a lot of work.

We used to make 44 mags out of old single shot shotguns the way you were talking in the 1st post. Lots of work.

junkbug
09-25-2006, 01:07 PM
Hello all;

Not to hi-jack the thread, but how do relined barrels stand up to heat? I imagine in a single shot, no problem, but will heavy firing with a repeater melt the epoxy, and loosen the liner?

Thanks.

Sean

StarMetal
09-25-2006, 01:20 PM
Here's the way I see it. In my opinion a barrel liner should have a step in it. The biggger diameter of the step being the breech section. This way the ledge traps the brass cases force between this ledge and the breech face. The silver solder or epoxy is mearly to keep the liner from moving or falling out. I do mine the old way, that's with low temperature silver solder which is pretty close to 500 degs. Something like 450 to 475 degs.

Joe

junkbug
09-25-2006, 01:25 PM
Joe;

Thanks.

Sean

Bret4207
09-28-2006, 08:24 AM
Junkbug- I don't think I'd use an epoxyed liner in a semi auto or full auto rig, but for levers, pumps, bolts- heck yeah. They work fine. I've used a liner in a 10-22 and had the barrel quite warm with no problems. I'd say it would alose depend on the epoxy you use. I'm a fan of Brownells Acra-Glass. Good stuff.

KCSO
09-28-2006, 02:28 PM
Acra glass will hold to about 300 degrees. They claim 400 but I have uesed it for screws with buggered threads and have found that at 300 I can usually turn them out. I really don't think that relining is a valid option for a semi auto, or a high pressure cartridge either. I have seen 357 and 44 special liners that eventually split internally. I stick to 25,000 or under for liners and just rebarrel for the higher numbers, just personal preference.

dbldblu
09-28-2006, 06:37 PM
StarMetal writes: In my opinion a barrel liner should have a step in it. The biggger diameter of the step being the breech section.

I agree, that is the way I did mine. On the question of epoxy standing up to heat - I had an epoxied liner I decided to remove. I put the assembly in the oven (while the Mrs. was gone of course) and started at 300 deg. I had to keep raising the temperature and letting it soak for 30 minutes. Finally I was able to push out the liner, with difficulty, after it had soaked 30 minutes at 450 deg. I am not worried about the epoxy softening under normal circumstances.

Four Fingers of Death
09-28-2006, 09:15 PM
One way that we use up old barrels here is to cut off the existing barrel, drill out the stub and screw the new barrel in. It is called sleeving I think.

For example I had an old worn out M17 and came by a 7mm Rem Mag Bbl off a Mod 70 which had the end destroyed by an obstruction. We cut the mil bbl an inch or so in front of the receiver, drilled it through and machined it to take the M70 bbl. My mate's father who did the job even cut a very small line around the bbl, just in front of the sleeve and explained that the solder would show and so he put the line in to give it a nice silver ring, rather than see the solder under the threads sporadically. Looked ok, shot ok, but a 21" 7mm Rem Mag was a bit noisy.
mick

shooter575
10-03-2006, 08:50 AM
Useless tidbit. In WWI the allies had repair depots that re-lined MG and artillery barrels.They were done by press fitting liners into bored out barrels.They were all step bored/turned.I read a long artical on this in the Army Ordnance Assn mag.Printed in 1919 or 1920. ISTR. Was allways wondering if this was done in WWII? So it can be done.

georgeld
10-04-2006, 03:20 AM
I've been thinking about doing the same thing. shopping in the hock shops around here I've found at least 15 NEF's, Handi's and various H&R shotguns with their price from $35 all the way to more than brand new in various conditions of course.

One thing I've learned long ago about buying things from a pawn shop is never ever pay their asking price. Always try to get it for half that and many times you can get it down near half. Just know what you're doing is the main thing.
They'll sure as hell take your money if you offer to pay too much.

Brownells has several liners fairly cheap.

uscra112
10-21-2006, 07:28 PM
I'm afraid I do much more reading than actual smithing, but on that basis I can assert that some of the best old-time (19th century) riflesmiths reckoned that a relined barrel was more accurate than a new one. They soft-soldered their liners in. As for temperature - when was the last time you got a single-shot or lever-gun bbl hot enough to boil water on? And that's only 212 deg., give or take.