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TedH
09-18-2006, 07:30 PM
I have a Lee 10 pound bottom pour pot that has given good service for quite a few years. My last casting session I noticed that I had to crank the dial up higher than before to keep the wrinkles out. Today, I had to have it all the way up to get good bullets out of a LEE two holer. I don't have a casting thermometer but stuck my turkey fryer thermometer in the pot and it only read 550 at full throttle. Surely that pot should get hotter than that on high? What might be the problem? I can hear it cycling on and off, it's just not as hot as it used to be.

JohnH
09-18-2006, 07:58 PM
I'd suspect either a faulty thermostat or a failing heating element. I've no idea how to test either untill a complete failure.

Edit: Let me add this, that Lee should be able to tell you what the resistance of each of those parts should be, a simple ohm test should prove which is at fault

imashooter2
09-18-2006, 09:04 PM
I had the same problem. See page 2 of this thread for info on fixing the thermostat.

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?t=7204&highlight=production

TedH
09-18-2006, 09:22 PM
Thanks! I'll give that a try.

versifier
09-19-2006, 12:20 AM
I have read that Lee will repair any melter still in production, but I have no firsthand experience with them.

Edward429451
09-19-2006, 03:27 AM
If you have access to a multi meter you can check the element too. The element is 120v / 500 watts.

If I remember me ohms law correctly...

Volts X Amps = Watts

120v X 4a = 480 watts

So it should be pulling about 4 amps.

V/A = R

120v / 4a = 30 Ohms

SO the element should ohm out to 30 ohms. The higher the reading you get over 30, the more worn the element is. You can adjust the values to the real readings you take. If there's a problem with the element, it will be obvious in the ohms reading. Otherwise, look at the T-stat. The bi-metal strip builds resistance over time which stiffens it and throws off the calibration. Tweak it like the link said or replace it.