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View Full Version : Wrinkles in my bullet nose



jtwodogs
08-28-2010, 07:33 AM
In the past I have used LEE molds which are aluminum. I am using a RCBS steel
.452,200 gr. SWC, 2 cavity mold. I suspect I am not getting the mold up to temp. is this the reason I am getting the wrinkles in the nose of my bullet. Can anyone confirm this, or am I doing something else wrong?
Thanks:)

Bret4207
08-28-2010, 08:40 AM
If the mould is clean then wrinkles are usually the result of cool temps, yes. Try casting as fast as you can to get the mould up to heat. Don;t stand there with an empty mould looking at the fresh boolits, keep filling and dropping and soon the mould will come up to heat. Mould temp is far more important than pot temp, but sometimes a hotter pot temp is needed due to the limitations of casting. I've also found some moulds need a a couple casting sessions to "repent" and get with the program.

Dale53
08-28-2010, 08:55 AM
I have only had wrinkles occur when the mould is not absolutely clean. I chalk it up to residual mould maker's preservative. Some of that stuff is REALLY hard to remove. Sometimes it takes a casting session or two before things start working well. After that, it is clear sailing...

My best luck involves using a GOOD spray solvent like "Gun Scrubber" or "Brake Cleaner" on a COLD mould, then give it a good scrubbing with a toothbrush (preferably a discarded brush as that solvent tastes YUCKY:roll:) and Dawn dishwashing liquid followed up by a thorough rinse in the hottest water you have available. I carefully pat dry. I pre-heat all of my moulds before using with a steel surfaced hot plate.

NOTE: Some spray solvents are downright toxic - I suggest that you spray clean the mould OUTSIDE.

Dale53

jtwodogs
08-28-2010, 12:46 PM
I have only had wrinkles occur when the mould is not absolutely clean. I chalk it up to residual mould maker's preservative. Some of that stuff is REALLY hard to remove. Sometimes it takes a casting session or two before things start working well. After that, it is clear sailing...

My best luck involves using a GOOD spray solvent like "Gun Scrubber" or "Brake Cleaner" on a COLD mould, then give it a good scrubbing with a toothbrush (preferably a discarded brush as that solvent tastes YUCKY:roll:) and Dawn dishwashing liquid followed up by a thorough rinse in the hottest water you have available. I carefully pat dry. I pre-heat all of my moulds before using with a steel surfaced hot plate.

NOTE: Some spray solvents are downright toxic - I suggest that you spray clean the mould OUTSIDE.

Dale53
I blacken by LEE molds with a cig. lighter, should I not do this with the RCBS after I clean it?

oldracer
08-28-2010, 01:15 PM
I had some wrinkle problems and several folks here suggested a hot plate to get the mold up to temp and I bought one at Walmart and it works fine getting the Lee 6 cavity to around 400 degrees before I start so usually only one or two pours have to go back in.

theperfessor
08-28-2010, 02:03 PM
I've never found any mold of mine that needed mold prep or smoking to work properly. If it's clean and deburred and up to temp it should cast just fine. Others may disagree.

Dan Cash
08-28-2010, 02:12 PM
Mould is cold; oily or the bullet is just plain old :)

That'll Do
08-28-2010, 02:13 PM
I blacken by LEE molds with a cig. lighter, should I not do this with the RCBS after I clean it?

No need to smoke the RCBS mold, just make sure it is clean and hot.

fryboy
08-28-2010, 02:15 PM
lee molds can actually work with no sooting ( blackening ) if one can get the mold free of oil , being as aluminum has a porous surface it mite take a long soak ( day or two ) to get it all out of the pores , cast iron is porous but seemingly not to the extent that aluminum is and so requires less time to get totally oil free, wrinkled boolits can be caused by cool molds, cool alloy and the aforementioned umm dirty mold , the soot acts as a insulator and covers the pores ( whether or not they have oil in them ) if totally clean then either ur mold is too cool or u should bump up ur alloy temp , plz keep in mind that all alloy's vary in temp pure lead takes more heat to cast than a lead tin mix does

Dale53
08-28-2010, 03:01 PM
I no longer use "Mold Prep" on my moulds. However, they ARE very useful when using hollow point moulds - I use Mold Prep on the hollow point pins. The bullets just drop off without issue.

Dale53