knife sharpening

[Lloyd Smale]

now im going to admit im a idiot when it comes to sharpening knives so dont give an recomendation of a stone. I can make one dull on a stone in a few minutes!! Ive tried the lansky and it does a fair job. Ive got a power sharpener but it about only works on kitchen knives. My hunting knives are to thick. Ive tried the crossed v carbide sharpeners and am not impressed. Anyone know of a knife sharpener that really works?

[Themoose]

Lloyd,

Being and old geezer, I've tried many knife sharpeners over the years... I found the best I've ever used about three years ago... get a KME knife sharpener and you can easily sharpen any knife well.... I gave away my Lansky set after getting the KME... I recently purchased the base for it as well as a set of the diamond hones....

Look them up on the internet... they make a great product.

TheMoose

[winelover]

I've been using DMT's Aligner (Diamond Machine Technology) sharpener. Similar to Lansky's but uses diamond hones that don't wear out. Their web site is www.dmtsharp.com

Winelover:coffee:

[44fanatic]

Ive been using a Smiths kit. Picked it up at Lowes for around $35 (I think). I also have a Lansky, but the Smiths seems easier to use.

http://smithsedge.com/products/product.asp?id=32&cid=4

[EMC45]

I have a Lansky (in the attic, never used) I also have the "V" type carbide handheld that carves away blade material (use this on yard equipment). I also have several India, Arkansas, and diamond "stones" in addition to the rod type that look like an ink pen with clip for field use. By far the hand held "stones" are the best for me. I can raise up a shaving sharp edge with short work. I also use my stones (selected ones) to maintain my edges on my straight razors as well.

[AnthonyB]

EMC45, want to get rid of that Lansky? I had one of the earlier versions with a machined lip in the blade attachment clip but lost it; the current version is a straight taper and doesn't work as well for me. Whatcha want for it in trade?
Tony

[405]

Just like the mouse trap there will forever be new knife sharpening systems.
One of the problems in my sharpening I discovered after many years of head knockin' trial and mostly error is- the thicker the blade the harder it is to sharpen.
I think the most important part of good sharpening is getting a correct and consistent edge angle first.... then the final edge can be had by most any means. To get that best, consistent angle some form of mechanical jig is almost a must. To do that both the Lansky and the Gatco seem to work for me. Even with these mechanical jig systems there is some learning, technique and skill involved. Once I've gotten the best angle on a blade the touch up is very easy with some form of natural or diamond stone. Then, after several touch ups during use and after some length of time that best angle will have to be re-done with the mechanical system. My heavily used pocket knife gets the Lansky about once a year and just the normal touch up diamond stone about once a month. The frequency of the process for different knives depends on type of blade, blade material and type of use.

[rollmyown]

Hi Lloyd,

I reckon most of the comercial sharpeners do a prety fair job. Some do it a bit better than others. All you need is to get your technique sorted and all will be good. I use a diamond sharpener, a natural stone, and polish whith a well worn steel.

[Firebricker]

I never could get one sharp till I bought a Spyderco sharpener. It will sharpen any knife I have as far as thick blades it gets my Bark River like a razor. Its a V setup you just hold the blade straight down. I tried every other kind of sharpener made with no luck till I got the Spyderco been using it abought 12 years. FB

[Hardcast416taylor]

I learned how to sharpen a knife on a stone over 50 years back. I quit making custom knives back in `03, all my knives were hand edged before leaving my bench. I`d find a friend that can sharpen a knife and do a swap trade with them like boolets for a sharpening. I tried many different kit sharpeners and either threw them away or just gave them away in favor of the way I sharpened being better. My son when he was in the Corp actually taught other marines how to sharpen blades.Robert

[dragonrider]

I use a "double sided diafold handheld sharpener by DMT with coarse side and fine side. Find it here.
http://www.dmtsharp.com/general/featured.htm#product4
A few licks and you have a shaving edge. I use it at work every day to sharpen my Stanley 99E razor knife, faster than changing blades.

[monadnock#5]

OK, first I googled the KME sharpener, and found a youtube video on the subject. Impressive. It's the Lansky system on steroids.

Then I found this:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TLjFjT4vYsM&NR=1&feature=fvwp

Obviously no good for deer camp or an abused blade, but for Mother's kitchen knives and that special hunting knife that never gets used for anything else but...

I checked out the Randall 23 while I was at it. WOW!!

[jsizemore]

Gatco diamond hone system with the addition of a ceramic finish hone. I like a sharp knife but I ain't worth a damn at it till I got this setup. The KME system looks like it would work and it was one of my choices but I got a gift card to Cabelas so Gatco was the pick.

[Razor]

Nearly wore out Aluminum Oxide belt on a belt sander to get the wire edge.
Cotton sewn buffing wheel to work the wire edge off.
2 minutes tops... and I can shave with it.

[steg]

The best knife sharpener is you, find someone who really knows how and ask them to show you their technique, keep your angles consistant and if the blade is too thick it must be thinned down in the edge area, Trying to sharpen something that is too thick is like trying to put a razor edge on a masonry chisel.
that buffing wheel trick is a good one, but you have to use a light touch, pressing too hard will work against you as the wheel re-expands after passing the edge, rounding off the edge your trying to put on.
You have to have good steel to take and keep an edge, I don't know from nothing about the numbers of the different grades, what I do is hold the blade close to my ear and pull my thumb ACROSS the edge if it's good steel it will sing to ya, if it isn't all youll get is a dull scraping sound, you can do it it's all in the angles.................steg

[ilcop22]

I own quite a few different sharpeners for all shapes and sizes. When it comes to honing knives, this is and always has been my favorite:

http://images.outdoorpros.com/images/prod/5/Smiths-Sharpener-CCKS-rw-37941-27899.jpg

I believe in the KISS method - Keep It Simple, Stupid. Works for me!

[JJC]

I am a poor knife sharpener and the Lansky jig type worked well enough. I found the crock sticks work well and keep a small sharpener like the post above in my pack. Look into a convex edge. Bought my lady a Bark River knife and she loves it. Strop on leather and good to go. You can even use a hard piece of cardboard. The original edge went through two elk and a few antelope before needing resharpened. Spoke to the maker nice guy gave plenty of info on the knife.

[Artful]

The best knife sharpener is you, find someone who really knows how and ask them to show you their technique, keep your angles consistant and if the blade is too thick it must be thinned down in the edge area, Trying to sharpen something that is too thick is like trying to put a razor edge on a masonry chisel.
that buffing wheel trick is a good one, but you have to use a light touch, pressing too hard will work against you as the wheel re-expands after passing the edge, rounding off the edge your trying to put on.
You have to have good steel to take and keep an edge, I don't know from nothing about the numbers of the different grades, what I do is hold the blade close to my ear and pull my thumb ACROSS the edge if it's good steel it will sing to ya, if it isn't all youll get is a dull scraping sound, you can do it it's all in the angles.................steg

+1 = good advise - once you learn you can do it with a river rock.

[Lloyd Smale]

Bought the smiths kit at gander mountain yesterday. It seems to work much better then the lansky i had. Probably because of the diamond stone vs the regular stone.

[fourarmed]

If the edge angle is right, a good crock-stick does a great job. The thing I am using now is a pair of cardboard wheels that mount on a buffer. One has an abrasive surface that you coat with wax, the other you charge with rouge. You sharpen on the abrasive wheel until you get a wire edge, then polish off the wire edge on the other wheel. You can put a shaving edge on even cheap, thin stainless steel paring knives. I have used a lot of different sharpeners, but this is the fastest and most effective I have tried. On a very heavy knife with a blunt edge, you might need a more aggressive grinder to get the edge angle right first.

[yammerschooner]

I use the Dunn Sharpening System on my 8 inch grinder. Every knife in my house is sharp enough to shave with, without even any pull on the hair as they cut. My fillet and skinning knives are as sharp, probably sharper, than when they were new.

Normally the abrasive end is not needed unless there is a chink in the metal. I often just polish on a new edge. It requires almost no skill to end up with a fantastic blade.

http://www.dunnknives.com/services/sharpening.php

I cannot speak highly enough about this system. It sounds similar to the cardboard wheels fourarmed speaks of in the prior post.

http://www.dunnknives.com/services/sharpening.php

[fourarmed]

Yammerschooner, that is the identical setup I have. My son in law gave me the wheels for Christmas one year, and they laid around in the package. The next year he gave me the buffer, and I almost couldn't find the wheels. Fortunately, they did turn up, and as you say, it is dangerous to handle any of my knives now.

[onondaga]

If you are having just OK results with the Lansky, you are the problem.There are plenty of YouTube videos on the Lansky. Watch them all. I have a side job sharpening surgical instruments and very experienced in getting an edge eye surgery sharp. The Lansky will establish a precise bevel on the edge and stone or diamond to an incredible edge with progressive abrasive grits to extra fine Hard Arkansas. Good sharpening takes patience and desire. If you don't have that for your own edges, pay somebody that does. The Lansky is as good as sharpening jigs get. There are more expensive kits but none of them will outperform the Lansky used with patience and skill . Easy to use tools give wavy edges and don't hold a bevel.

[pmeisel]

I like to use a diamond stick on dull blades, and a crock-stick or a stone on sharp ones....

[Lloyd Smale]

Like i said i have a lansky at camp and have used it alot. I had one before they had diamond stones. the biggest complaint i have with them is there much slower then the diamond one i have now and the stones tend to wear out fast.
If you are having just OK results with the Lansky, you are the problem.There are plenty of YouTube videos on the Lansky. Watch them all. I have a side job sharpening surgical instruments and very experienced in getting an edge eye surgery sharp. The Lansky will establish a precise bevel on the edge and stone or diamond to an incredible edge with progressive abrasive grits to extra fine Hard Arkansas. Good sharpening takes patience and desire. If you don't have that for your own edges, pay somebody that does. The Lansky is as good as sharpening jigs get. There are more expensive kits but none of them will outperform the Lansky used with patience and skill . Easy to use tools give wavy edges and don't hold a bevel.

[kym]

On a budget and here in Australia where some of the fancy systems are hard to get, I rely on the Scary Sharp method.

This works by using wet and dry paper, neoprene rubber sheet (foam computer mouse pad), a strop made from leather scraps with grinding compound and a steel to keep the edge straight.

The Scary Sharp method is particularly good for convex edged blades when using the neoprene under the wet and dry paper or for flat chisels using a piece of glass under the wet and dry. My Frost carbon steel blades do well with this method.

Shaving edge for $5 of wet and dry paper.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Scary_sharp

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FQCkKPGSOtA&feature=related

It always drives me to distraction to be cooking at a friends house or holiday house and the knives a too blunt to cut. Remember even if there is no stone or steel available you can sharpen on the un-glazed underside of a coffee mug - a good trick when caught out! you can even then strop on rough cardboard to impress the family.

[StrawHat]

...On a budget and here in Australia where some of the fancy systems are hard to get, ...

Can't help with the budget but these guys had a good system. I use it in my shop for some knives.




[QUOTE=kym;970436] ...I rely on the Scary Sharp method...

It is a good system if you maintain a consistant angle. I use it for plane irons and chisels.

[Just1Mor]

I just learned how to sharpen almost anything to a raizor edge. I before would also dull things out, but the trick is when you get down to the hard ark stone pass blade side forward a few times like normal to get out the scatches from the rougher stone and then sharped backwards. The angle should be the same but when the knife is slid backwards on the stone you are honing and not chipping away metal like you do going forward. Youtube is a great teacher.

[Frank46]

Being the head sharpener at my house takes on new meaning come the holidays. Some years back bought 4 stones. India, soft and hard arkansas and the black arkansas. Depending on what the wife is cutting and how bad the edge is I'll start with the norton india stone and get a rough edge and get rid of the nicks. Then progress from there. But recently have a 3/4x6" norton india stone that I've been using for her butcher knives. These are a mix of chicago cutlery and old hickory knives. That's where the 3/4x6" stone comes in handy. Just a few good swipes and she's good to go. I wouldn't say razor sharp but close to it. Frank

[EdZ KG6UTS]

A lot of what you use for sharpening depends on the steel in the knife/ tool. I grew up sharpening plane irons and chisels, all carbon steel, with different grades of Arkansas stones. Those went from soft Wa****a to hard white to hard black then some times leather. The same worked for carbon steel knives but changed with the varied types of stainless. Those seem to work using the diamond to shape then ceramic or, as mentioned by others, machine abrasive. I think the old Buck Folding Hunter, 'Biker Buck', was the hardest to get honed to an initial sharp lasting edge. If that edge was mantained it was a good knife. Abuse it and it was back to square 1. It seemed a tough or 'gummy' steel not a hard steel and responed best to machine abrasives though I did lots for friends by hand. I like Japanese water stones for plane irons etc. also.

EdZ KG6UTS

[EdZ KG6UTS]

But recently have a 3/4x6" norton india stone that I've been using for her butcher knives. These are a mix of chicago cutlery and old hickory knives.

Those really work on an India or Wa****a!!! I pick up old used "Old Hickory" knives at swapmeets or garage sales that look like rusty **** but clean up and take a good edge. Check out this guy who still makes 'file' knives. I bought one as a utility and patch knife.

http://www.anzaknives.com/

EdZ KG6UTS

[Uncle R.]

My favorite is a Lansky with diamond hones that the wife bought me for Christmas many years ago. The diamonds are great - they work on tough "rubbery" stainless blades better than anything I've tried. You can feel the coarse diamond hone bite into the blade with every stroke - kinda like filing mild steel with a brand-new sharp Nicholson file. The coarse diamond hone makes short work of reshaping an abused edge and resetting the edge angle. After shaping I run a few strokes with the mid-grade hones then go directly to the fine diamond to put on the last touches. Those diamonds work well and cut quickly but they just will not give me a shaving edge although it's very close. Two or three strokes of each side on a hard arkansas and then a bit of stropping will finish the edge nicely. That's my system - gives a shaving sharp edge with a very uniform angle that stands up well.
And I agree with the other posters about blade material - some of SWMBO's kitchen knives simply will not take a good edge. I swear those blades must be made of zinc. The Chicago Cutlery blades sharpen up pretty well though.
<
Uncle R.

[missionary5155]

Good morning
Every morning -- well mostly -- I get out the smooth ceramic stick with a wood handle and put about a minutes time into my daily carry ... that is a gerber S30V " Armor Crewman " . It is always razor sharp unless I have to chop up some really heavy stuff during the day.
Have been doing this for many years since I tried an old 6" ceramic electric insulator I pulled from a real 2x8 floor joist that was in an 100 year house. I actual had a bunch but gave most away.

[Ivantherussian03]

As you can see there are alot of opinions about how to sharpen knife steel. Your going have to pick a method and work with it, and work your way up the learnin curve. If your still unhappy with the results your getting you will need to rethink the quality knife steel your putting an edge on, and figure out to cope with that, or buy better knife steel. Cheap steel dont sharpen well; it is just a fact. My knives are just ok.

I personally dont use very expensive knife steel. I buy the kind of knives I can live with. Hence I plan on sharpening them frequently, but in retrospect it forced me to learn how to sharpen a knife.

The other reason I dont use expensive knives is that one time my hunting partner, who never has his own gear, borrowed my schrade and lost it for me while we cut up a moose.

I use the lansky system at home to sharpen, a diamond stone when I am in hurry, or a stone.

anyway....just my two cents

[redneckdan]

lloyd, I use the lansky kit with standard stones. I find that their hone oil is junk though. You are right that the stones do seem to wear. I didn't know they offered diamond kits. I sharpen most everything at the 20* angle and only use the 3 finest grits for touch ups. the two coarsest grits only come out for a new knife to set the edge angle. i find that stroping with leather after the 1000 grit is what gets it scary sharp. some of Jen cheaper knives are a bear to sharpen but our buck knives, my kabar and CRKT knives all take a great edge without too much headache.

After many years of sharpening tools and bits by hand on grinders and stones can i get a passable edge on a bench stone. Even then it is not as good as what I get from the lanskey setup.

[softpoint]

I use the sandpaper over rubber pad, to 2000 grit and then leather strop with compound, black, then green. If I want an edge to really be scary, I go to a white compound, and then sometimes to Mother's steel billet polish. Although that kind of edge is not needed for an everyday use knife, I like to hone my blades to this level some times, just for fun. The edge looks like a mirror, and you can split a single hair several times if you are steady enough. This type of sharpening produces a convex edge, and in my opinion, is a superior way to get a really sharp blade. Bark River knives are made with a convex edge, and some others.
Fun, just like casting boolits!:bigsmyl2:

[Ekalb2000]

I thought I was the only one to use sandpaper.
400grit up to 1500grit. Then strop.
I need a better stop though. Knivesshipfree.com has some nice ones.

[chaos]

If you are having just OK results with the Lansky, you are the problem.There are plenty of YouTube videos on the Lansky. Watch them all. I have a side job sharpening surgical instruments and very experienced in getting an edge eye surgery sharp. The Lansky will establish a precise bevel on the edge and stone or diamond to an incredible edge with progressive abrasive grits to extra fine Hard Arkansas. Good sharpening takes patience and desire. If you don't have that for your own edges, pay somebody that does. The Lansky is as good as sharpening jigs get. There are more expensive kits but none of them will outperform the Lansky used with patience and skill . Easy to use tools give wavy edges and don't hold a bevel.

I agree. I can make any of my knives sharp enough to shave my face with a Lansky. I too could never sharpen a knife. A friend had a Lansky and showed me how to use it. Now buddies want me to sharpen theirs.

On a side note. I ONLY use good carbon steel blades. Soligen steel or the type like Moore Maker has in their blades. Stainless is pure **** in my book for sharpening or holding an edge. None of that garbage in my house.

I skin out and put up a BUNCH of HOGS every year. I've worn out 3 sets of the standard stones and went with the diamond this last time. They hold up much better.

[StrawHat]

I see where some members are considering buying strops to use. If you have any left over leather from a project just glue a piece to a chunk of 2x3 or 2x4. Dress the leather with whatever you prefer and you have a good solid strop. I prefer a solid strop instead of a slack strop.

As far as stainless blades, they can be sharpened quite nicely and hold an edge well. It just takes a bit more time and a little more care.

[Von Gruff]

I use a stone as like some I have been using them for years for chisels, plane blades and my knives. I use a different technique for the knives in that I sit the stone at an angle of 18 degrees for the major angle as it is so much easier to keep the knife vertical then use the same vertical hold with the crock sticks at 20 degrees for a final hone and they give a VERY nice finish to my knives. If I clamp the stone on the corner of the table I can stand comfortable to stone both sides of the knife.

http://i667.photobucket.com/albums/vv39/VonGruff/002-5.jpg

This showss the 2 degree difference in the angle between the stone and the crock sticks.

http://i667.photobucket.com/albums/vv39/VonGruff/001-10.jpg

I have a 3 1/2 in ceramic steel for field touch up if needed.

http://i667.photobucket.com/albums/vv39/VonGruff/001-11.jpg

Von Gruff.

[chaos]

As far as stainless blades, they can be sharpened quite nicely and hold an edge well. It just takes a bit more time and a little more care.

I respectfully DISAGREE. I dress out and clean upwards fo 15 to 20 wild swine every year, in addition to all the deer my kids take. Aint no stinless junk can stand up to it. None that I've found anyhow

[StrawHat]

I respectfully DISAGREE. I dress out and clean upwards fo 15 to 20 wild swine every year, in addition to all the deer my kids take. Aint no stinless junk can stand up to it. None that I've found anyhow

Sorry it doesn't work out for you. In the course of a week I probably sharpen 100-200 knives. I find the stainless hold up better, the carbon steel come back more frequently.

My personal knives are a mix of stainless and carbon. For me it is all in the handle, if they don't feel comfortable in my hand, I pass them along.

[EMC45]

If I can add to this again I will say that I have a Schrade (US Made) "Sharp Finger", and it ran out of steam fast! OTOH I have a couple SS that wouldn't quit. These were use for dressing hogs that were encrusted with mud. I have a Carl Shleiper carbon folder and that thing is SHARP! It is also a fine hard steel. I was "slicking" up a kitchen knife over the weekend and went to put it down and crossed my hands by accident.....Left pinky got a nice deep cut! Bled out nicely..I just checked the knife for sharp by rolling some hair off my arm with it. It was shaving sharp with just a couple strokes on a diamond "stick" that retracts into the handle. I got it with a Gerber knife I bought years back. Works well for dressing them up.

[mister gizmo]

FWIW, I just posted my almost NIB Gatco Diamond 3-Hone kit in the For Sale section.

My own stoning needs are for revolver action work and similar and I've got plenty of India and Norton abrasives for that.

gizmo.

[twotoescharlie]

mountain man stones??

TTC

[Ron B.]

ilcop22; Bro, I'm with you!
A Walfart $7.99 quick pick is one of the absolute best sharpening jigs I've used. But, buy two. Your wife will want one.

In sharpening anything, I find consistency of angle is the key; whether hand done, or mechanical. I guess I've got a hidden talent; learned how to hand sharp years ago. My grandfather was a commercial fisherman; loved sharp knives, and didn't have much patience for those who didn't know how to handle, or sharpen them. I still remember; he came equipped with two fist.

Oh, this little device is so easy, my Pretty can do it.
Just works; nuff said. Just be patient the first time you sharpen your knife with it; count to 30 strokes, or so.
And, do your operation on a cutting board, across the 90 degree angle of the pocket of a kitchen counter, to keep from cutting your counter top.

Ron

[WildmanJack]

Here's one for ya boys. I do a little leather work and try to use a "Head Knife" sometimes called a round knife or a Squaw knife for cutting long straight cuts or intricate cuts in fairly thick leather. The knife is really old, made by Osborne so I know it's good steel. I have used stones, diamonds, ceramic, wet sand paper, and everything else I can think of, but I can't get a really sharp edge on it.:violin: I want it to cut thru leather like a hot knife thru butter..( That's what they say it's supposed to do!) I just don't know how to put a good edge on it. I swear, I could pick up a piece of razor sharp obsidian and before I got a good hold on it, it wouldn't cut bread!! Any suggestions???

Jack :(

[Lloyd Smale]

Jack it sounds like we have the same sharpening skills. I can take a razor sharp knife and put it to a wet stone and make it a butter knife in about 2 minutes.

[Smoke-um if you got-um]

I've probably got 50 different sharpening systems around here. Everything from stones to ceramic sticks. The Lansky stones do a good job but wear out quickly. I currently use a DMT diamond system that will take down a thick blade pretty fast and put a proper angle on it. This system is VERY durable. It has a long guide rod and a wide mouth guide that will do just about any size/length knife. I use this at home to do kitchen and hunting knives at my leisure and with proper care will put a razor edge on them with only a few strokes on the sharpening steel afterwards. In the field or when butchering I have found that a relatively new sharpener works very well, it is called a FURI diamond finger sharpener. It will not put a razor edge on a knife but will keep a very serviceable edge on it while you are working. It is VERY EASY TO USE and folds to the size of a small wallet. To clean just use hot water and shake it off. They are inexpensive and can be found by googling FURI on the Internet. There are quite a few brands/types that will put a fair edge on a knife but only a very few that will put a razor edge on one. In all honesty a razor edge only lasts for a couple of cuts, if that, with most knives. Someone who can put a razor edge on a knife with free hand stones is a true artisan and they are few and far between.

[MtGun44]

Lansky works great for me, bu I can do nearly as well free handed. Arguing about whether
"stainless steel" is good or bad is like arguing whether "powder" is good or bad. There are
MORE different alloys of SS, than there are powder types, plus two HUGELY different broad
classes of SS.

Poor grade SS can be pure **** for a knife, but the proper alloy with the proper heat treat
can be incredibly good and does not lose an edge due to corrosion as quickly as carbon
steel.

I find that the tiny diamonds are gone pretty quickly from the few expensive diamond
sharpeners that I have used, so I will not buy them. I have to bring my Lansky with me
whenever we go to relatives for Thanksgiving or Christmas because my wife absolutly
will not put up with dull knives after 30+ years of good quality kitchen knives that are
always kept extremely sharp. Used to do it freestyle, now use the Lansky for more
consistent angles, shorter sharpening times.

Bill

[Heavy lead]

I've got a Lansky, and it works fine, however I find it slow and somewhat cumbersome.
I spent $120 on two 14.5" diamond bench stones as a gift to myself a few months ago, took a couple of older hard, never could get a good edge on them knives and learned the technique. I now can sharpen pretty well, it's all about being consistant I suppose, these stones are awesome, almost got no hair left on my arms anymore from testing the blades out.

[pmeisel]

An ex-butcher friend gave me a brief lesson on the diamond stick and ceramic stick. Helped my edges a lot, they were already ok but they are better now....

[redriverhunter]

i have had good luck with the razor edge sys. after some pratice with it i quite using it and now i just use a two sided stone one side course and the other mediem grit
http://www.razoredgesystems.com/