What gun safe do you prefer?

[Trey45]

I'm going to be buying a gun safe in a few months, and I'm doing the beginning stages of research now. I've decided on a 30+ rifle 1 hour fire proof safe, with shelving for handguns, dehumidifyer and lighting included. Non electronic lock, I don't want to depend on a battery to be able to open my safe. Are there features I should look for, any particular maker I should avoid? Price limit up to 2k. Here's one I am considering, I know nothing of the company though.

http://steelwatergunsafes.reachlocal.net/product_info.php?cPath=2&products_id=29

[JeffinNZ]

Here is what I use.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v505/JeffinNZ/Shooting%20stuff/IMG_0022.jpg

[bob208]

i have a liberty. i think they are great. i had a brakein about a year ago. they worked on that safe for quite a while even tried to set it on fire. but it protected my guns and papers. it did cost me about $400 to get it open and repaired. they broke off the tumbeler. but did not get in the safe.

[deerslayer]

Liberty has my vote and business!! Great products and good people at customer service

I have a Freedom and the tech at liberty told me that is bar none the best safe they have for the money. Great fire rating 45 min (unless it is upstairs or in the basement a 45min rating is fine most houses will burn down in 45 minutes at 1200 degrees believe me I put plenty out and teach new firefighters they don't stay that hot for long they burn down at that temp). The biggest difference between what I got and the next model up is $600, shiny paint instead of a speckle finish and an electronic lock which I didn't want anyway. Mine holds 26 guns and was $900 on sale at Orschellins farm store.

[deerslayer]

Liberty has my vote and business!! Great products and good people at customer service

I have a Freedom and the tech at liberty told me that is bar none the best safe they have for the money. Great fire rating 45 min (unless it is upstairs or in the basement a 45min rating is fine most houses will burn down in 45 minutes at 1200 degrees believe me I put plenty out and teach new firefighters they don't stay that hot for long they burn down at that temp). The biggest difference between what I got and the next model up is $600, shiny paint instead of a speckle finish and an electronic lock which I didn't want anyway. Mine holds 26 guns and was $900 on sale at Orschellins farm store.

Oh also stay away or investigate real close anything that is not UL listed for the ratings. The UL are some of the best safe torturers in the business and their seal means it was put to the test.

[Reloader06]

Love my Fort Knox. Not cheap but it was highly recommend and have had zero problems in 5-6 years.

Matt

[azcruiser]

Have 2 Brownings and a Fort Knox =But before that had and old up right freezer in the garage
took the inside out pored cement about 18in deep in the bottom made it smooth put in 2 eyelets
one on each side ran a cable through the trigger guards and had it plugged into a fake outlet.
House was broken into lost some guns that were out but the never opened the fridge in the garage LUCK ME

[winelover]

[QUOTE=Trey45;937313]I'm going to be buying a gun safe in a few months, and I'm doing the beginning stages of research now. I've decided on a 30+ rifle 1 hour fire proof safe, with shelving for handguns, dehumidifyer and lighting included. Non electronic lock, I don't want to depend on a battery to be able to open my safe.

I would think twice about the electronic lock option. I ended up having mine upgraded after a year or so. The dial locks are so slow. Forget about trying to open your safe if you are under any pressure! As you AGE, you will find that the dial locks will require you to have, at best, reading glasses available. Battery life is exceptional and besides they will start flashing when getting low. I probably only change it (9 volt) every 5 years and only because I think about it.

+1 on Liberty---They will repair them for FREE, if subjected to a Fire and or Break-in.

Winelover:coffee:

[imashooter2]

A real safe is far different than the security cabinets sold by most "safe" companies and you can't even look at one for $2000. For residential security cabinets, Liberty makes a good compromise...

[Firebricker]

I agree on avoiding electronic lock. I bought a low end Heritage safe and had problems with the lock. I called Heritage they sent a local locksmith to fix me up then it worked but still a little rough. I called Heritage back and the rep said " You've had too many problems with that lock we're going to upgrade it to a better lock" The new one was so much smoother I was amazed.

So I don't have experiance with other brand's but can tell you Heritage stand's behind their products 100% would not hesitate to buy another.

I would like to move up to a better safe as far as security and fire rating eventually. Mine is low end but will stop the smash and grab's from the crack heads but if you want in any safe bad enough guess you can find a way. Thieves want in and out quick.

I think a good safe is an excellant investment. Make sure you bolt it down some times the crack heads have a lot of strong friends LOL. FB

[Tom-ADC]

I have two American Securites, best advice I could give is figure out what size you "need" then buy the next size up.

[Reloader06]

^+1 on next larger size!

[dk17hmr]

I prefer a safe that is full. When I moved to Wyoming my dad bought me a 24 gun safe with a Remington sticker across the front, not sure who makes it but its to small. Get the next size larger than you think you would need.

I have plans, if we every build a house, for a concrete vault built in with a safe door....who knows if that will ever happen but that is my plan. Also have plans for an indoor shooting range in the basement, 24" or 36" steel culvert extending into the yard 50-100 feet, 6 feet under ground, with a pulley system to run targets down to the end of the tube.....would be nice for air rifles, 22's and maybe handguns but I would have to make sure the wife was out.

[mtgrs737]

I was the #1 Liberty safe dealer in Kansas for 10 years when I soild them. Not a bad safe but the Champion Safe brand is a tad better at the same or sometimes less money. I would get the Triumph model as it has two expanding fire seals and the double edge door and door frame which helps to stiffen and strengthen these critical areas. Champion's top of the line Crown Series is one of the best gunsafes on the market bar none. Fort knox is the other brand I recomend but they are a bit more expensive, but how much do you have to protect?

I sell Champion safes as my stocking line but am still a Liberty dealer although when customers look at both safes they usually end up with a Champion Safe.

Give them a look at:

WWW.championsafe.com

Trey45,

I doubt that safe will go an hour unless the heat ramp up is mighty slow. Two layers of insulation is normally a 45min. safe tops. You need three layers (especially in the top) to make an hour in most brands of safes. When comparing safes of different brands consider the weight among the many features. If two brands are close to the same size, gauge of metal, number of bolts etc. but one weighs a hundred pounds more, that is the safe that will perform best in most cases. I would suggest a Champion Triumph 40 in textured finish or a Trophy 35 with the same finish. Rememeber that a safe is a long term purchase and I can't think of a better place to invest in a quality product that will serve you for the rest of your life. Good luck!

[remy3424]

Get the largest you can afford, it won't be big enough. I have a Liberty, good for the money, just not big enough!!! Just like building a garage, it can't be too big.

[whitetailsniper]

Liberty safes are my choice

[shdwlkr]

Well I have a no name that weights around 900 pounds when empty and hope to be buying two liberties next year. One for my son-in-law and one for me. Yep running out of space in the first one. Yes I did buy a big one but it has been way to easy to fill.
My son-in-law is a deputy sheriff that works with inmates that make them and is pretty well satisfied with the construction as he sees enough of them being put together. It is my house warming gift to him and he has to weight a year to get it because I just finished putting a new stove, refrigerator and microwave in for the daughter. It is there first real home and what was there was junk. Besides it really messes with her mind when dad and mom do stuff like that as they are so happy to get it. Besides that is money that the government can't take away from me. Only so much money when you are retired.
I will agree with the other posters get the biggest you can afford and the heaviest you can find.

[thebigmac]

Take a look at "Pendleton" Safes. Don't know anything about prices, but they are nice. If you can't get them, e-mail me & I'll give you their web..... God luck. Mac

[thebigmac]

Additional infor from above..... Bigmac

http://www.pendletonsafes.com/

[BD]

I'm a champion fan. On any safe under 2,000 what you are buying is a door and frame set in a sheet metal cabinet. It's up to you to protect the sides, top and back by locating the safe to make those areas difficult to access.
BD

[skeet1]

Fort Knox. A great safe.

Skeet1

[405]

For security, the one to ask, "Which do you prefer?" would be an experienced burglar. For fire- then the lab specs on smoke, heat, etc. For lock type- personal preference I guess. The one free standing safe I have is dual type, keyed/dial combination. The large one I have is a built-in vault with 8" reinforced concrete for floor, walls and ceiling. A couple of things to consider are humidity control of course and water control. If there is a fire then likely there is going to be a ton of water and debris end up on top of whatever is in the house. The same considerations would apply about a safe in a basement that may turn into a swimming pool after a fire. Oh, and as been posted- double or triple the size you think you need. No matter how strong the criminal bubbas are they would have a hard time carrying, by hand, a large safe half full of lead ingots- sans a fork lift :)