Boy do i need help!

[sergeant69]

FINALLY got my lube in had awhile to use the old LAM11 again. stuck in a stick of hollow speed green, placed a lightly pre lubed cast .44 250 gr. SWC, lowered the handle and lightly rotated the top screw until i felt resistance, tightened some more, and raised the handle. LUBE EVERYWHERE. top of boolit to the bottom. did the sensible thing and read the instructions off the net. says to decrease the depth of seating by raising part L. i have raised part L until it is as high as it will go (against part K), raised the bar, part N as high as it will go and i still am getting lube all over the boolit. i have run 2 thru it w/out tightening the top screw until the boolits are coming out dry, then very lightly, barely tightening the top screw again (yes the boolit is already in the sizing die when i do this), and the lube still covers the boolit almost to the tip. i took out the die and it says .428 on the top of it. the top punch is part of the original set up but when i ordered the die and remember confirming it was for this die. been a long day and i am too tired and disgusted to continue this tonight. what am i doing wrong?? THANKS john

[waksupi]

John, make sure you hold the ram down on the bullet firmly as you add the lube. Sometimes it will creep on you if not held down. Hope this helps.

[lwknight]

Was it a bevel base boolit?
Those are the pits to deal with.

[Buckshot]

.............The ejector pin stop should almost be able to keep you from running the boolit into the die far enough to get ANY lube if it's all the way up. If you're getting lube out of the bottom of the die also, it could be a too small ejector pin.

.............Buckshot

[WHITETAIL]

John, The best way to start is to take a few pics.
Then post them.
I am sure someone has had the same problem.[smilie=b:

[Three-Fifty-Seven]

Sounds to me like maybe someone enlarged the sizing die, and lube coming up around your boolits.

I'd take the die out and see if your boolit will fall through it . . . if it is not tight, in other words not sizing, it will let the lube up past it.

What size are your boolits dropping at?

I have also found that hot days and soft lube ends up being messier . . .

Here is what my instructions say:
http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s220/ShawnTVT/Guns/IMG_0001.jpg

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s220/ShawnTVT/Guns/IMG_0002.jpg

[winelover]

FINALLY got my lube in had awhile to use the old LAM11 again. stuck in a stick of hollow speed green, placed a lightly pre lubed cast .44 250 gr. SWC, lowered the handle and lightly rotated the top screw until i felt resistance, tightened some more, and raised the handle. LUBE EVERYWHERE. top of boolit to the bottom. did the sensible thing and read the instructions off the net. says to decrease the depth of seating by raising part L. i have raised part L until it is as high as it will go (against part K), raised the bar, part N as high as it will go and i still am getting lube all over the boolit. i have run 2 thru it w/out tightening the top screw until the boolits are coming out dry, then very lightly, barely tightening the top screw again (yes the boolit is already in the sizing die when i do this), and the lube still covers the boolit almost to the tip. i took out the die and it says .428 on the top of it. the top punch is part of the original set up but when i ordered the die and remember confirming it was for this die. been a long day and i am too tired and disgusted to continue this tonight. what am i doing wrong?? THANKS john

I experienced the same problem with the Lyman 429667 (240 gr RNFP) Cowboy bullet and a Lyman sizer die in my Lam II. No matter how much I adjusted the ejector rod (J), the lube wouldn't stay in the lube grooves. I temporarly fixed the problem by using a brass washer between the ejector rod (L) and the bullet ejector screw. By doing this, I was able to increase the length of the ejector rod and get a properly lubed bullet. If you try this method, make sure you use brass or copper for a spacer, so as not to ruin the threads on the ejector screw. Never had this issue before, when I used only RCBS sizers in my Lam II. I'm thinking it may be that the Lyman sizers have two rows of lube holes in the die body versus only one row in the RCBS die body. If I had a lathe, I would make a slightly longer ejector rod and solve any future problems of this sort. I guess I could try plugging one row of lube holes in the Lyman die but I probably will just buy a RCBS sizer.

Winelover:coffeecom

[Calamity Jake]

Take the die out of the luber and in the upper most lube holes drive in #4 lead shot to plug them then reinstall the die and readjust for proper groove filling.
Some will say you don't have to do this with this type luber but in some cases you do.

[sergeant69]

Was it a bevel base boolit?
Those are the pits to deal with.

no, its a FB

[sergeant69]

SUBJECT TO BE REVISITED....I HOPE! gotta get ready for the hurricane for now. again. laters.

[mdi]

And they say pan lubing is a pain![smilie=l:

[sergeant69]

.............The ejector pin stop should almost be able to keep you from running the boolit into the die far enough to get ANY lube if it's all the way up. If you're getting lube out of the bottom of the die also, it could be a too small ejector pin.

.............Buckshot

the ejector PIN STOP (part N) is like 1" below the bottom of the ejector pin when parts K and L are screwed up all the way topwards. theres no way it could limit the travel downwards of the boolit being lubed. so.............WHAT NOW?? HELP! AND THANKS FOR THE HELP!

[sergeant69]

ADD ON..........when the boolit is being lubed the ejector pin free falls until the head rests against the frame (where part K is) but of course on the top of the frame not the bottom where K is. clear as mud?

[fryboy]

i took the lock rod nut ( k ) off for some boolits , on my old lyman i installed it on the top

[montana_charlie]

deleted...

[sergeant69]

Take the die out of the luber and in the upper most lube holes drive in #4 lead shot to plug them then reinstall the die and readjust for proper groove filling.
Some will say you don't have to do this with this type luber but in some cases you do.

guess i will have to try that next. or else just buy a star and be done w/the problems but dam i hate to do that for the small amt. of casting/lubing i do. maybe i'll have a longer ejector rod made.

[94Doug]

Is there heat in the mix here? I had this problem with my LAMII when I first started with a hard lube and heater... turns out the adjustment was waaaay to high. Lots of lube everywhere too.

d

[sergeant69]

Is there heat in the mix here? I had this problem with my LAMII when I first started with a hard lube and heater... turns out the adjustment was waaaay to high. Lots of lube everywhere too.

d

97deg and 85% humidity is all.

[D Crockett]

I got so tired of messing with my lam2 and cleaning lube of of bullets where it was not supposed to be that I did go out and buy a star machine and have not regretted also the lam2 paid for over 1/2 of the star well worth the money I spent D Crockett

[garandsrus]

sergeant69,

You can adjust part "N" so that it is higher and the part "J" hits the stop much sooner. This will also limit the downward travel of "J".

John

[sergeant69]

sergeant69,

You can adjust part "N" so that it is higher and the part "J" hits the stop much sooner. This will also limit the downward travel of "J".

John

nope, as stated in post#1 part N is adjusted as high as it will go already. thanks though.

[lwknight]

Maybe you just need to plug the top holes in the sizer die with lead shot.
Short bullets and 2 hole sizers are not a good match.

[sergeant69]

Maybe you just need to plug the top holes in the sizer die with lead shot.
Short bullets and 2 hole sizers are not a good match.

yea, i'm leaning that way or getting a star. and b4 some wag observes that two BB's of lead shot is a little cheaper than a star sizer, i already figgered that out, thanks.

[sergeant69]

I got so tired of messing with my lam2 and cleaning lube of of bullets where it was not supposed to be that I did go out and buy a star machine and have not regretted also the lam2 paid for over 1/2 of the star well worth the money I spent D Crockett

do you have to go the factory only for it or is it sold/discounted elsewhere?

[sergeant69]

also, w/a star, since it is a straight thru sizer, can gas checks be applied somehow?

[Buckshot]

..............I guess I'm having a problem understanding the difficulty. The issue is that lube flows through the lube holes up past the boolit, Eg: The boolit is being pushed too far down into the die? On my RCBS lube-sizer I can easily run the threaded rod (L) right up to the underside of the casting that contains the die (M). In this position the ejector pin in the die shouldn't move down more then 1/4", or at least not enough to uncover any lube passages in the die.

If no holes are uncovered, no lube should flow. Or at least not very much. If the boolit is IN the die and lube is flowing up around it there can only be a couple things happening. One is the boolit is too small for the die, creating clearance for the lube to escape up past the boolit, or secondly the boolit is being pushed in too far uncovering the top lube holes.

To fix the first, getcherself a fatter boolit :-) For the second, don't push the boolit down so far.

...............Buckshot

[sergeant69]

as i have stated b4, the rod J can't be adjusted far enough up to stop the boolit travel as parts N,K,L are adjusted as high as they can go, and the rod J still drops down until theres lots of space between its top (head) and the bottom of the frame that encloses the sizing die. on the downward stroke of course. as far as the boolit being too small, it takes some force to drive it downwards w/marks on the side where it was forced thru. unsized 427.5. sized its 426.
so..since the boolit is NOT undersized going in, and the ejector rod is no help limiting downward travel, i guess my only other 2 options are to
1. plug the top holes in the die
2. "mark" the handle somehow and only go that far downward
also...since i use the satellite system to get on the net i may be off awhile till this hurricane is over with. will check back as possible.

[Three-Fifty-Seven]

What are you using for lube?

Soft lube and higher temps make a mess too . . .

[Tom Myers]

as i have stated b4, the rod J can't be adjusted far enough up to stop the boolit travel as parts N,K,L are adjusted as high as they can go, and the rod J still drops down until theres lots of space between its top (head) and the bottom of the frame that encloses the sizing die. on the downward stroke of course. as far as the boolit being too small, it takes some force to drive it downwards w/marks on the side where it was forced thru. unsized 427.5. sized its 426.
so..since the boolit is NOT undersized going in, and the ejector rod is no help limiting downward travel, i guess my only other 2 options are to
1. plug the top holes in the die
2. "mark" the handle somehow and only go that far downward
also...since i use the satellite system to get on the net i may be off awhile till this hurricane is over with. will check back as possible.

Take out your sizing die, unscrew parts "K" and "L" then turn "L" upside down, drop it through the die cavity and screw it in from the top of the threaded hole. Next, drop part "J" in through the top. This will give you about another 3/8 of an inch of up-adjustment and may be all that you need.
That is the way I have mine set up - I just discarded the locknut "K" as "L" never seems to get out of adjustment and I can still screw "L" down far enough for the longer bullets

Hope this helps.

[sergeant69]

TOM...cool, i'll try that! thanks

[sergeant69]

What are you using for lube?

Soft lube and higher temps make a mess too . . .



speed green

[MtGun44]

I agree on moving the whole adjuster assy onto the top of the mounting lug
on the frame. Plus in that heat you will want VERY little pressure on the lube
reservoir. Should be no need to plug holes in the die with this design lubrisizer.

Buckshot is exactly right, when fully adjusted up no way should you be able to
uncover a lube port at all.

Bill

[montana_charlie]

I also don't understand the theory of plugging holes with shot.
When the (Lyman) Bottom Punch (the I part of an H & I set) is flush with the top of the sizing die, it 'plugs' all of the holes.

If you push the bullet in far enough to expose the top set of holes, the rest are 'still plugged' by the Punch (I).

The (Lyman) Push Rod (designated as J in RCBS and Lyman presses) will limit the downward travel of the Punch (I). If it only allows the top holes to be exposed, all other holes are 'plugged' by the Punch.

You determine how many holes get 'unplugged' by the setting of K, which limits the travel of J.

Any holes below your bullet's lube grooves are plugged by the Punch or by the base band on the bullet, itself.

So...whare is the need for shot?

CM

[sergeant69]

Take out your sizing die, unscrew parts "K" and "L" then turn "L" upside down, drop it through the die cavity and screw it in from the top of the threaded hole. Next, drop part "J" in through the top. This will give you about another 3/8 of an inch of up-adjustment and may be all that you need.
That is the way I have mine set up - I just discarded the locknut "K" as "L" never seems to get out of adjustment and I can still screw "L" down far enough for the longer bullets

Hope this helps.
AND WE HAVE A WINNER! worked like a charm. quickest 2 minute fix in history. limits the downward travel of the boolit and the lube flows right where it should! THANK YOU! still may wanna get a star though as i like the push thru idea for speed of operation. if i find someone wanting a lam11 w/4 sets of NIB dies i just may sell it. or give it to my son who is just now getting into reloading and may want it. in any case, it works great just like it should. thanks again.