9mm wrinkles

[chris in va]

I know, hashed and re-hashed numerous times. Normally I don't care about wrinkles with my 9mm, but just SOME of the time it would be nice to get a solid boolit once in a while.

Mold is warmed up, pot is on '7', using WW. If I go hotter the sprue doesn't cut right.

[JesseCJC]

sprue should slice off with minimal resistance if it is hot enough. Can you further explain "doesn't cut right"? Also, the mould is warmed using what method and for how long? Type of mould?

The hotter the pot is not directly reflected on wrinkles in the boolits, its the mould not being hot enough. Sure you could crank up the heat to get the mould hotter with multiple casts but it's easier to have the mould hotter before dumping multiple casts with wrinkled boolits.

[docone31]

I soak my molds in mineral spirits for a couple of days.
I believe the gasses given off contribute to the wrinkling.
Once I started soaking them before I use them for the first time, the wrinkles went away. I do preheat my mold, and keep the lead cranked up.

[mooman76]

Try cranking the heat up some and as you start to get good bullets, slowly turn the heat down.

[Shiloh]

+1 to mooman76

Let the boolits set up and the sprue harden a bit before slicing. just a few extra seconds.

Shiloh

[madsenshooter]

I was having similar problems recently. I found my pot wasn't getting as hot as it used to when set at 8. The heating element is probably about to go again. I don't know why I didn't check the temp sooner, my thermometer was laying right close to the pot. I think old drippy is about to be retired. I can buy a 1500 watt hot plate, and a cast iron or stainless steel pan for the price of Lee's element. Besides, I want to try ladle casting.

[lwknight]

Cast faster. Yourobably need a little tin added too

[chris in va]

Can you further explain "doesn't cut right"?

If I heat up the melt/mold too much, the sprue plate just smears the boolit base instead of cutting it. Suppose I could wait about 20 seconds but seems rather excessive.

Maybe a little tin is the trick. Like I said it doesn't bother me to load wrinkled boolits, it's just irritating that most of them are like that.

[Three-Fifty-Seven]

I think you just got a "old codger" mold! :mrgreen:

If you want to cool the sprue plate down, I just have a damp towel nearby, and rest the mold upside down, and let it sit there for maybe 2-3 sec, ready to cut!

Wrinkles are normally from too cool alloy, and or oil in the mold, but tin should help it flow. . .

[HeavyMetal]

If the alloy is "smearing" across the top of the blocks when you open the sprue plate you are not waiting long enough for the alloy to harden!

Adding tin will not change this problem because as you are able to cast faster you will open the plate sooner and start the whole deal over again!

Suggest a couple solutions:

Patience is a virtue, wait a little longer,

Make sure the mold is clean, wait a little longer

Add a small amount of tin, and wait a little longer


Buy a second 6 banger in the same boolit design and rotate them while casting, and wait a little longer.

I tell customers constantly that "there is no free lunch" to get what you want some compromise must be made. The two mold technique gives both production and cooling time.

[fecmech]

+1 on the cast hotter and when you see the spru "suck in" as it hardens turn the mold over and put the spru plate on a wet cloth for a second and it will not smear then when you cut it. All you have to hear is the hiss as the spru touches the wet cloth, it only takes a second.