Thermometers - What is your ideal thermometer?

[jonblack]

Hello

I am in the process of acquiring all of the tools needed to smelt and cast my own bullets. I do not yet have a thermometer. I have been looking at "industrial" examples on eBay. I am thinking of getting up that reads to 1000 °F but I am not sure if one that read to 750 °F would be just as good.

So I thought I would ask you all what your ideal thermometer would be. I am open to using digital volt meters, analog type, etc. I would like to keep the budget in the $50 range with a max of $100 for some esoteric equipment.

If you could provide a link that would be helpful.

Thank you
jonblack

[RobS]

A good thermometer can be had at rotometals, a vendor sponser here. It is the same thermometer as the RCBS just doesn't have the brand on it.

Rotometals also gives a discount to cast boolit members as well.

http://www.rotometals.com/SearchResults.asp?Search=thermometer

[jonblack]

Thank you for the link. I read the reviews on Midway USA about the Lyman product, and that users preferred the RCBS over the Lyman. However, I was reluctant to spend $50+ on a thermometer until I learned more.

So, I was pleased to see an equivalent thermometer at a nice price.

Thanks again
jonblack

[madsenshooter]

Want an even nicer price? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Atkins-Digital-Surface-Thermometer-Pyrometer-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem439f9ddd72QQitemZ29044 0732018QQptZMotorsQ5fAutomotiveQ5fTools They work good too!

[Cowboy T]

A lot of those expensive thermometers are just rebranded Tel-Tru barbecue thermometers.

Here's the one I use. 200-1000 deg. F., $19. Shipping is reasonable.

http://www.teltru.com/p-272-big-green-egg-grill-dome-kamado-replacement-thermometer-lt225r-2001000-degrees-f.aspx

[mooman76]

The ideal thermometer is in your head. After you get some casting experience under your belt, you can tell when the lead and mould is too hot or not hot enough. Not too hard really when you think about it. Each mould is different just like guns are different. You might have to turn up or down the heat different with each one. If your bullets are not filling out at 700 degrees with one mould but it does another does it really matter? You just adjust accordingly. I think some new casters get hung up on thermometers too much. They complain that their bullets are not turning out at 700 degrees and just yesterday they were or someone else said his turns out at this temp, why doesn't mine. If it needs more heat give it more heat.

[RobS]

The ideal thermometer is in your head. After you get some casting experience under your belt, you can tell when the lead and mould is too hot or not hot enough. Not too hard really when you think about it. Each mould is different just like guns are different. You might have to turn up or down the heat different with each one. If your bullets are not filling out at 700 degrees with one mould but it does another does it really matter? You just adjust accordingly. I think some new casters get hung up on thermometers too much. They complain that their bullets are not turning out at 700 degrees and just yesterday they were or someone else said his turns out at this temp, why doesn't mine. If it needs more heat give it more heat.

I agree once you have the hang of things i.e. the mold temp is up and alloy temp is set to drop bullets one can manage without a thermometer, but here is my catch. Why not know exactly what the alloy temp setting is so you know when to start to cast. I preheat my molds on a hot plate at a certain temp setting and have my alloy set to the desired temp needed to make bullets from the get go. It just makes casting simpler.

Having the mold temp consistent is what makes consistent bullets with that some molds like to cast at 670 degrees and some of my aluminum molds like it at 780 degrees and yet I have an aluminum 4 cavity hollow point mold that likes it at 900 degrees. I can set up the hotplate and then heat the alloy up to where it needs to be and bullets are good to go every time within two drops.

Many times I will be casting two different molds. I cast with the “hot alloy” mold first and when I have enough of those bullets I’ll add enough alloy ingot to bring the temp down to the next mold’s liking and I’m off and going again.

I chart what each mold likes for alloy temperatures for intended alloys and what the hot plate is setup for to preheat the mold. I use to cast without a thermometer and I can tell you I had a lot more rejects than I do now that is for certain. Now if a person should have a PID setting on their pot then that would be a different story all together.

[imashooter2]

I use a Tel-Tru 5" dial on a 12 inch stem that I got off eBay. Can't remember the price, but I low balled dozens before one came home at less than $8 delivered. Bent up a little wire hanger to suspend it in my pot. You can't see the wire in this crappy cell pic, but you can see the generous clearance the 12" stem gives to allow working the pot. It's also handy size for smelting operations.

http://home.comcast.net/~imashooter2/pictures/castset1.jpg

[RobS]

On a note:

I would say get a thermometer that will have a enough range for what you are going to cast at. I cast clear up to 900 degrees so I am good to go with my thermometer at 200-1000 degrees.

[John Boy]

Gents, here's a secret
All the retailers (RotoMetal, Midway, RCBS, LYman, etc) selling their bi-metal thermometers with the 5" stem and 200 to 1000 degree buy them from Tel-Tru Thermometer Manufacturing Co in Rochester, NY

It is a quality thermometer so shop around for the cheapest price ... which is straight from Tel-Tru... http://www.teltru.com/p-272-big-green-egg-grill-dome-kamado-replacement-thermometer-lt225r-2001000-degrees-f.aspx

Mine has been in probably a 1000+ lbs of melt in my pot. I test it every now and then with boiling water. Yep - same temperature :drinks:

[jonblack]

Guys, thank you for the replies. I appreciate the pointers about the Tel Tru thermometers.

mooman76 - I like thermometers. For many years I have had one poked in the air vents of a few of my vehicles. I also like data, so I would like to know what temp the melt is at when things are going right, and what temp I am at when things are going wrong. I understand the concept of "knowing" when things are right, and I understand that comes along with experience. What I didn't want to do is run my smelt too hot, and risk inadvertently melting some zinc into the pot. I appreciate your affirmation that things can be done without a thermometer, and I will keep experimenting until I can get my hands on one.

On a side note regarding thermometers: I know when my wood stove is running just right by looking at the fire and listening the to box talk. My girlfriend understands it, too. We burned 3.5 cords of wood this winter and have a good feel for the stove after our first two seasons. However, I would love to know what the temps are in the box and the stove pipe when things are at an efficient burn state. I can't wait to get a thermometer for that, too.

Thanks again everyone
jonblack

[RobS]

Gents, here's a secret
All the retailers (RotoMetal, Midway, RCBS, LYman, etc) selling their bi-metal thermometers with the 5" stem and 200 to 1000 degree buy them from Tel-Tru Thermometer Manufacturing Co in Rochester, NY

It is a quality thermometer so shop around for the cheapest price ... which is straight from Tel-Tru... http://www.teltru.com/p-272-big-green-egg-grill-dome-kamado-replacement-thermometer-lt225r-2001000-degrees-f.aspx

Mine has been in probably a 1000+ lbs of melt in my pot. I test it every now and then with boiling water. Yep - same temperature :drinks:

If the picture in the above link is the actual thermometer then it is not the same as an RCBS. The stem of that thermometer is thin and pointed. My RCBS thermometer's stem is twice the diameter and is flat on the bottom.

I don't doubt you, just trying to varify on the differences if there are any.

[madsenshooter]

Guys, thank you for the replies. I appreciate the pointers about the Tel Tru thermometers.

mooman76 - I like thermometers. For many years I have had one poked in the air vents of a few of my vehicles. I also like data, so I would like to know what temp the melt is at when things are going right, and what temp I am at when things are going wrong. I understand the concept of "knowing" when things are right, and I understand that comes along with experience. What I didn't want to do is run my smelt too hot, and risk inadvertently melting some zinc into the pot. I appreciate your affirmation that things can be done without a thermometer, and I will keep experimenting until I can get my hands on one.

On a side note regarding thermometers: I know when my wood stove is running just right by looking at the fire and listening the to box talk. My girlfriend understands it, too. We burned 3.5 cords of wood this winter and have a good feel for the stove after our first two seasons. However, I would love to know what the temps are in the box and the stove pipe when things are at an efficient burn state. I can't wait to get a thermometer for that, too.

Thanks again everyone
jonblack

The digital pyrometer linked to above has a sensor on the end that's actually made to test for plugged catalylic converters. Check the temp of the pipe before the converter, and the temp after the converter, if there's a significant difference, the converter is plugged. I think it would be an excellent one to use for checking the temp of you stove's pipe.

[geargnasher]

Guys, thank you for the replies. I appreciate the pointers about the Tel Tru thermometers.

mooman76 - I like thermometers. For many years I have had one poked in the air vents of a few of my vehicles. I also like data, so I would like to know what temp the melt is at when things are going right, and what temp I am at when things are going wrong. I understand the concept of "knowing" when things are right, and I understand that comes along with experience. What I didn't want to do is run my smelt too hot, and risk inadvertently melting some zinc into the pot. I appreciate your affirmation that things can be done without a thermometer, and I will keep experimenting until I can get my hands on one.

On a side note regarding thermometers: I know when my wood stove is running just right by looking at the fire and listening the to box talk. My girlfriend understands it, too. We burned 3.5 cords of wood this winter and have a good feel for the stove after our first two seasons. However, I would love to know what the temps are in the box and the stove pipe when things are at an efficient burn state. I can't wait to get a thermometer for that, too.

Thanks again everyone
jonblack

I think you have it right. Some folks are rabid thermometer haters and some would stop casting if theirs broke. Point is, a thermometer is a tool to help educate and inform the brain of the operator, and all brains function better and make better decisions with good data. Experience will teach you how to get the same good data without a thermometer, but it's easier just to get one and use it. Just don't get hung up on specific casting temps, let your mind be flexible and just do what works.

I find that thermometers are most useful in keeping a pot in the sweet spot with a certain mould, NOT for dialing in a known ideal temp for a certain mould which can change with the weather, barometric pressure, humidity, etc. It's nice to really hit a perfect mould/alloy temp in the middle of a marathon casting session and be able to maintain it with a thermometer after adding ingots or taking a break.

Gear

[jonblack]

I ended up purchasing a nice 2.5" 1000 °F dial thermometer with a 6" shaft. I am waiting on it to arrive. I appreciate everyone's replies.

For almost ten years I have worked with old letterpress machines as a hobby. When working with paper, temperature and humidity play a big part in how paper acts. Now, I don't look at the thermometer/hygrometer to determine whether or not I am going to work with the press, but when the paper starts curling I do look over to see what the numbers are. I can feel it with my fingers as well. I just like to assign a numerical value to the feeling.

jonblack

[Changeling]

If the picture in the above link is the actual thermometer then it is not the same as an RCBS. The stem of that thermometer is thin and pointed. My RCBS thermometer's stem is twice the diameter and is flat on the bottom.

I don't doubt you, just trying to varify on the differences if there are any.


Hi Rob, I hope he's right, probably is! I jumped the gun so to speak and just ordered one.

[reddoggm]

Anyone here ever set up a pyrometer/w-K type wire thermocouple in their pot just rigged one up on mine and seems to work well my only problem is I never used a themometer and feel the need to weed out some of the missed zn when smelting so far the pyrometer reading 675 F is doing the job the zn floats and doesn,t melt making it easy to not get mixed in. At 790F the zn is gone/melted in a heartbeat so I,m assuming the pyrometer is working good

[Lance Boyle]

Playing around ont the Tel tru site I found another thermometer which is the one they have for lead temps.

It's Laboratory Testing Thermometer LT225R, 2 inch dial with pan clip


Model: 2310
2" Dial, .150" Diameter stem, Back Connected, 304SS External Parts, Friction Nut for Calibration, Adj. Pan Clip, Glass Lens
Price $34.68

versus the BBQ one;

BIG Green Egg, Primo, Grill Dome, Kamado Replacement Thermometer LT225R, 5 inch stem, 200/1000 degrees F

Model: LT225R
LT225R (BIG Green Egg/Primo/Grill Dome/Kamado Thermometer) 2" Dial x .150" Diameter, 5" Stem, 200/1000 degrees F (10 degrees/Div), Glass, Recal Nut, Pan Clip
Lead Time: Stock to 14 days

SKU: 23100566 (272)

Price: $19.95

ETA- I did some analyzing to figure out the differences, They're all LT225R thermometers in the 200/1000 degree F range but;
the food one is a 5" stem for $19.95
the lead one is an 8" or 12" for the $34.68 price

[dnotarianni]

For smelting I use a turkey fryer thermometer from Cabelas for $10 Goes to 750 degrees which is great for smelting. For casting I got a digital thermometer from ebay with a 6" long thermocouple that I stick right in the pot. Total cost with digital thermometer and thermocouple was $15 and I can use the thermocouple when I decide to do a PID on the pot

Dave

[Jailer]

My thermometer broke last week so I took the plunge and ordered up the parts to build a PID. I don't know why I didn't do this sooner. Set your temp and let the PID do the work. Makes casting an absolute dream.

OP, I'd consider getting a PID if you can swing it.

[btroj]

I am one of those guys who doesn't use, or own, a thermometer. I have just never seen a compelling reason for one.

Gear makes some good points but also mentions that experience can allow one to overcome the need. I feel I am at that point.

[gandydancer]

Swede nelson sells them also for about the same price. $23.00 delivered. noebulletmolds.com -

[GLL]

I have a standard casting thermometer but this $24.00 digital version from Harbor Freight is much more convenient ! Unfortunately it is no longer available.

Jerry

http://www.fototime.com/CB81033CA092D0B/orig.jpg