Ed's Red

[joeb33050]

I clean cast bullet guns with Marvel Mystery Oil and sometimes a little Kroil.
I need to know if I should include an article on Ed's Red in the book.
1. Have any of you tested E.R. against other cleaners?
2. Would somebody send me a small bottle of E.R. for my testing, I just can't handle a gallon of anything here in the small condo.
3. Anything else?
This is info needed for cleaning after shooting cast bullets, that's what the book is about.
Thanks;
joe b.

[DLCTEX]

PM me your info and I'll send you some Ed's Red..... Dale Clawson

[44woody]

Joe B here is how you make it --1part mineral spirts --1 part acetone --1 part Kerosene-- 1 part Mercon 1,2,3, transmisson fluid --and if you want to add about 2% liquid lanolin to prevent rust ---now I could be wrong but I don't think you can send it threw the mail becouse it is flammable (acetone and kerosene ) is going to be the problem with the post office :castmine: 44Woody

[1Shirt]

Joe B, Am interested in your results and recommendations with Marvel Mistery Oil, and your process of using it with cast. Will be interested in your reply.
Thanks in advance.
1 Shirt!

[Buckshot]

.............KISS. Use Hoppe's.

............Buckshot

[omgb]

I keep it cheap ..... Ed's Red:mrgreen:

I use Kroil in guns/loads that lead then follow it with Ed's. I added the lanolin too. Now my hands are soft; red but soft. [smilie=1:

[NVcurmudgeon]

.............KISS. Use Hoppe's.

............Buckshot


Rick, I've gone back to Hoppe's for cast boolit cleaning. Hoppe's is the finest perfume I know, er next to my wife's Chantilly. Also, Hoppe's is a more effective cleaner than Ed's Red WITHOUT ACETONE. As I clean my firearms indoors, I made ER without acetone, as recommended, I have few enough remaining brain cells to risk.

[Bucks Owin]

Can you throw a banana in there and get the same smell as ol' #9? :-D

Dennis
who has tried the others but keeps coming back to Hoppes...

[omgb]

No Acetone? Heresy! Acetone is safe, the government told me so back in the good 'ol USAF. Since when would a SSgt. lie? Besides, I have no signs of dain bamage and I've been using acetone four yeards.

[StarMetal]

I always thought lacquer thinner smelled pretty good har har har.


Joe

[Bucks Owin]

I always thought lacquer thinner smelled pretty good har har har.


Joe


Hmmmm....

Sniffin' laquer thinner huh?

Maybe THAT's why you have these odd leanings towards Chevys and Remingtons....[smilie=1:

Dennis


heh heh :-D

[NVcurmudgeon]

No Acetone? Heresy! Acetone is safe, the government told me so back in the good 'ol USAF. Since when would a SSgt. lie? Besides, I have no signs of dain bamage and I've been using acetone four yeards.

I am sure that your SSgt was as truthful as the first Class Gunner's Mate who debunked my ignorant fear of the methyl ethyl ketone we were painting the ship with. This was fifty years ago, when poison hadn't been invented yet.

[Shepherd2]

A gallon of Ed's Red is way cheaper than a gallon of Hoppe's even with the lanolin added. IMO Ed's Red (with acetone) works much better too. Hoppe's wins in the aroma department though.

[felix]

Make it smell like Hoppe's.... Banana Oil .... use this.... won't need but a teaspoon or so in a quart of Ed's Red. ... felix



Isoamyl acetate is an organic compound that is the ester formed from isoamyl alcohol and acetic acid. It a clear colorless liquid that is very slightly soluble in water, but WELL SOULUBLE in most organic solvents. <<<---IMPORTANT

Isoamyl acetate has a strong pleasant odor which is described as similar to both banana and pear. Banana oil is a term that is applied either to pure isoamyl acetate or to flavorings that are mixtures of isoamyl acetate, amyl acetate, nitrocellulose and other flavors.

Isoamyl acetate is also used to test the effectiveness of respirators or gas masks because it has a strong smell which is not unpleasant that can be detected at low concentrations, and has low toxicity.

It is also used as a solvent for some varnishes and nitrocellulose lacquers, as well as being a honey bee pheremone and can be used to attract large groups of honeybees to a small area.

Isoamyl Acetate, Reagent
C7H14O2 F.W. 130.18 CAS: 123-92-2

SLI1900-100ML * 100 ml $38.00
SLI1900-500ML * 500 ml $96.00

[StarMetal]

Bill,

I worked on the MEK unit of the Sunoco Oil refinery in Tulsa, Ok. It was also known as the De-oiling/De-waxing unit. We had these giant filter that were about 20 foot in diameter and about 40-50 feet long. The drum was canvas covered over a layer of mesh. There was a vacuum inside the drum. The drum was contained inside an enclosed container blanketed by inert gas. The way it worked was the drum was partially submerged in oil and as it turned the vacuum sucked the oil on through the canvas and left a layer of paraffin on the outside that was constantly washed with a spray of MEK. The MEK is a solvent for paraffin, but in this application it was sucked through the paraffin picking up any oil. As the drum turned the wax was shaved off and a screw picked it up and sent it along to further wax processing, as was the oil. So here we basically have a slurry of wax and MEK. Now how much MEK did or was the refinery able to process out of the wax? We'd hope all of it. But guess what, this is the same wax used for canning, still today, also for other edible stuff like added to chocolate. You're ingesting the stuff one way or another. I think you're getting MEK'ed one way or another yet today. I know the wax went to distillation and that was to remove any further oil and MEK. How many of us ate that those Halloween and other toy/candy? Remember the fake big ruby red wax lips, after you were finished making faces with them you ate them. Or how about the little bottles filled with a flavored liquid we drank. Wonder how much that did to us. Just like all other petroleum products paraffin is a known cancer producer too.

Just thought you might have found this interesting.

Joe

[StarMetal]

Dennis,

No actually the lacquer thinner made me spray paint Fords [smilie=1: :drinks:

Joe

[HTRN]

For those who want it, the latest version of Ed's Red:

CONTENTS: Ed's Red Bore Cleaner

1 part Dexron ATF, GM Spec. D-20265 or later.

1 part Kerosene - deodorized, K1

1 part Aliphatic Mineral Spirits

CAS #64741-49-9, or substitute "Stoddard Solvent", CAS #8052-41-3, or equivalent.

1 part Acetone, CAS #67-64-1.

(Optional 1 lb. of Lanolin, Anhydrous, USP per gallon, or OK to substitute Lanolin, Modified, Topical Lubricant, from the drug store)

MIXING INSTRUCTIONS:

Mix outdoors, in good ventilation. Use a clean 1 gallon metal, chemical-resistant, heavy gage PET or PVC plastic container. NFPA approved plastic gasoline storage containers are OK. Do NOT use HDPE, which is permeable, because the acetone will slowly evaporate. Acetone in ER will attack HDPE over time, causing the container to collapse, making a heck of a mess!

Add the ATF first. Use the empty container to measure the otherainer to measure the other components, so that it is thoroughly rinsed. If you incorporate the lanolin into the mixture, melt this carefully in a double boiler, taking precautions against fire. Pour the melted lanolin it into a larger container, rinsing the lanolin container with the bore cleaner mix, and stirring until it is all dissolved. I recommend diverting up to 4 ozs. per quart of the 50-50 ATF/kerosene mix to use as "ER-compatible" gun oil. This can be done without impairing the effectiveness of the remaining mix. Label and safety warnings follow:

From this site (http://www.building-tux.com/dsmjd/tech/eds_red.htm)


HTRN

[omgb]

I used real honest to goodness turpentine when I made mine. Sure it added a few bucks to my over all cost but it smells really good! I think i may try adding banana oil though. If this stuff smelled like Hoppe's......well, I just might want to dab it behind my ears.

[joeb33050]

This is for cast bullets only, I use one of the copper-removing cleaners after jacketed-I shoot < 20 jacketed bullets per year.
I've used mineral spirits, home heating oil, paint thinner, and several combinations. 10W motor oil, Liquid Wrench, other kind of penetrating oil and kerosine. Kerosene.
Now I use Marvel Mystery Oil almost exclusively. It cleans my guns just fine.
If I get streaks on the ~5th patch = lead, I take lead out of the barrel with Kroil on a tight patch-push it through the bore so the patch squeaks and the lead comes right out.
BUT, I MUST grease the bore with lube on a patch after Kroil and before the first lead bullet because the Kroil gets the bore TOO clean and it will lead.
On occasion I use (had to look) Odorless Paint Thinner, 3" in a plastic bottle, muzzle in the bottle, patch on a small brush and suck it up into the barrel. This takes a lot of the black stuff out of the barrel quick, is faster than patching.
Some guns clean easy and fast, Maynard 1882 32/35 cleans in <5 patches.
M54 Win 30WCF takes many patches-maybe I clean too much.
I'll never use a gallon of anything and have no room for a gallon in the condo.
I'd like to know if ER is better than MMO, wonder if it's not a myth.
I think almost any solvent will clean a gun, but the MMO is cheap by the quart, (had to look) $5.50, smells good, and does all my oiling.
I'm thinking that turpentine will act like Kroil with that squeak and pulling the lead out-I may try it.
So, anybody done any side-by-side tests?
joe b.



Joe B, Am interested in your results and recommendations with Marvel Mistery Oil, and your process of using it with cast. Will be interested in your reply.
Thanks in advance.
1 Shirt!

[Hip's Ax]

Make it smell like Hoppe's.... Banana Oil .... use this.... won't need but a teaspoon or so in a quart of Ed's Red. ... felix

Hey Felix, is there a difference between "BANANA OIL" and "BANANA FRAGRANCE OIL "? Is the fragrance oil synthetic or something? If you wanted some banana oil where would you buy it? Are you saying "Isoamyl acetate" is banana oil? Is this the same as "Amyl acetate"?

[13Echo]

OMGB
Did you use the turpentine to sub for the mineral spirits or the kerosene?
Jerry Liles

[Bucks Owin]

Hey Felix, is there a difference between "BANANA OIL" and "BANANA FRAGRANCE OIL "? Is the fragrance oil synthetic or something? If you wanted some banana oil where would you buy it? Are you saying "Isoamyl acetate" is banana oil? Is this the same as "Amyl acetate"?

At one time, a bottle of Hoppes #9 had the ingredients printed on the label. There was something in there that was derived from bananas. Oil, extract...??? Whatever, that's where the great smell comes from I'm sure..( hence my earlier post)

Now that Hoppes #9 is distributed from some outfit up in Oregon, (Michael's?) the label doesn't have the ingredients anymore. I guess Frank A. Hoppes may have sold the name and formula...

Maybe an OLD bottle of #9 will tell you.....

FWIW,

Dennis

[felix]

Isoamyl acetate, Amyl acetate are esters which impart the smell to Hoppe's. This is the "banana oil" to use, which neither is NOT a banana extract. The "Iso" provides the stronger smell, making less of it needed. ... felix

[alamogunr]

Not trying to hijack this thread but there is another homemade bore cleaner that is similar to Ed's Red. It was developed by Steve Hurst and presented as an alternative to Ed's Red. I am still using up the rest of my Ed's Red but have a gallon of "Steve's Squeeze" waiting to be tested. I was attracted to it by the use of Lee Liquid Alox instead of lanolin. I forget where I found the article, but I do have it saved as a Word document if anyone is interest.
John

[Wayne Dobbs]

John,

Please email the "recipe" if you would!

detwd114(at)yahoo(dot)com

Thanks!

Wayne

[Hip's Ax]

Isoamyl acetate, Amyl acetate are esters which impart the smell to Hoppe's. This is the "banana oil" to use, which neither is NOT a banana extract. The "Iso" provides the stronger smell, making less of it needed. ... felix


Thanks!

[StarMetal]

Use your brains guys, the key thing said was that Lee's Liquid Alox was used instead of lanolin. Merely substitute the lanolin in Ed's Red with the Lee goo.

Joe

[StarMetal]

I believe Felix to be right. I read too that Hoppe's made a change, but I don't think it's ingredient that makes it smell good to men (not women).

Joe

[omgb]

I subed the turp for the mineral spirits. It works the same but the smell is a lot more like what I remember my grand dad's shop smelling like back in the early 60s.

I have found that Ed's is a very aggressive cleaner thaqt really attacks burnt in crud. Baclk in the spring, I bought a Yugo 48 from Big 5 Sporting Goods. It was packed in cosmoline and gunked to high heaven. I made a thermal box out of plywood and stuck a heater in it (200 watt light source) After several hours in the box, most all of the cosmoline had dripped off. It took two more in box sessions to get the stock clean. Ed's Red was used on the bore exclusively. It took ony a very few patches and a few strokes with the brush and that bore came up bright and shiney.

I also found that soaking the bolt assembly in Ed's dissolved all of those years of caked on grease and dirt. After soaking for 20 minutes, all I had to do was wipe the parts off. I did take a brush to some of the rally nasty parts but that served only to break the surface layer so that the Ed's could penetrate faster.

I'm not too sure that Ed's is really all that much better than the old Hoppe's. I do believe that it is much better than the current Hoppe's. The older recipe contained a solvent (I've forgotten which one) that was really toxic. I tried to order some of this toxic stuff last year only to find out that it's like $100/qt. unless you buy it in 55 gal drums. In the PRK, it also requires a hasmat permit. The newer version is more environmentally friendly and less carcinogenic...not that I'd want to put it in my whiskey. The long and the short of it is this: Ed's is cheap and efficient so I'm sticking with it. YMMV as they say.

[Hip's Ax]

The removed component was Nitro Benzine. Bruno's Shooting Supply still sells Hoppe's w/nitro benzine but I think they are adding it themselves as this Hoppe's doesn't smell as nice. I bought a quart a couple of years back and only use it once in a while.

[StarMetal]

Hip,

Yeah, yeah, that was it. By the way that place you mentioned does add the Nitro Benzine. Here is why they took it out: Oil of Mirbane) Yellow oil in some perfumes and dyes. It reacts with the blood and corrupts it, and also paralyzes the central nervous system. ...

Joe

[Bucks Owin]

Isoamyl acetate, Amyl acetate are esters which impart the smell to Hoppe's. This is the "banana oil" to use, which neither is NOT a banana extract. The "Iso" provides the stronger smell, making less of it needed. ... felix


Does that have the word "banana" in it on the bottle? Something on the old bottles had the word banana in it...

FWIW,

Dennis

[omgb]

Yep, it was Nitro Benzine. It had been ID'd as a known carcinogine and a known toxin for the liver, hence, it was removed. It's apretty dang good solvent for organic chemicals. The word I got was that it also had the ability to neutralize chlorides though I can't see how that would work. I suspect that was more benchtop speculating as opposed to real scientific fact. Since H2O is a great solvent for Chlorides, I really don't see the need tor NB. Any way, I like Ed's with the lanolin and with the acetone. Oh, and of course, with turpentine. Maybe I'll have to try adding some banana oil for "esthetics"

[felix]

Unfortunately, perfumes just cost too much! Might find a vendor willing to send a sample. It should not be a hazmat liquid by looking at the formulation. ... felix

[1Shirt]

Thanks Joe! 1Shirt

[Buckshot]

.............The old Hoppe's #9 would neutralize corrosive priming salts, the newer Hoppe's will not. I have seen a few places around the net where milsurp ammo blasters have been advised to "Just use Hoppe's". No bueno in this day and age.

I'm not saying that Ed's Red isn't good stuff, and it is cheaper then Hoppe's. I just like Hoppe's :-). I like the big brown bottle with the yellow label and the red '9'. And yes it smells good too.

................Buckshot

[omgb]

See? Now that's what I like about Rick. He gets right to it. It's hard to find fault with a guy who says right up front, "this is what it is but I like thisother thing better because it's what I like" The old Hoppe's was gooooooood stuff. I'd be willing to bet that all of us who shoot have that smell ingrained in our subconscious to the point that when we encounter it, we laps into a Pavlovian auto responsive mode that has us dreaming about great shots, days with dad or grandpa, our boyhoods etc. It's hard not to keep returning to that smell and I'll bet the folks at Outers know that and take it to the bank each week.:mrgreen: l

[fourarmed]

I use ER, and it does a good job on nitro fouling. I did get an awakening regarding it recently, though. I had cleaned the bore on my .45 Colt RBH until the patches came out clean without any drag or trace of lead. Just for the hell of it, I soaked a patch in Kroil and ran it through. It darn near stuck, and came out with long streaks of lead on it.

Another solvent that really takes out lead well is Kleenbore's #10. (Two guesses where they got the idea for the name.)

[Bad Flynch]

The ingredient that was dropped from the old formula Hoppe's #9, the chemical that gave it that peculiar odor, was nitrobenzene. It was listed on the label, depending on the era, as Oil of Myrbane or Oil of Mirbane. Nitrobenzene is a carcinogen and, I guess, it was easier to drop it than to prove it safe. I added some back to my current Hoppe's #9 and it smells great. The nitrobenzene also improves the solvents ability to dissolve some crud. There is a guy in Phoenix, Bruno Shooter's Supply, that offered Hoppe's with the nitrobenzene added back, but I am unsure if he still does.

Years ago, I had access to a toxicology database that contained many trade-secret formulas. For reasons that should be apparent, I cannot reveal the whole formula, but there is sufficient information available from simply reading labels to reveal that one.

[felix]

Just having the right friends in the right places will get you any "formula" you should ever desire. The problem is in the sequence and quantity of the various constitutents, and where in the world to get them that won't cost an arm and a leg (in some cases, literally), and/or require a tank car full as a minimum quantity. Not worth the hassle in the short run. In the long run, you could be lawyered upon. ... felix

[utk]

When I studied the MSDS sheets for the ingredients of ER, I found that deodorized kerosene (for indoor heaters and the like) and aliphatic mineral spirits were the same (at least here in Sweden, and from one manufacturer).
So the recipe got a bit simpler:

1 part ATF
2 parts Mineral Spirits or Aliphatic Mineral Spirits
1 part Acetone

At first I left out the acetone but found that it didn't clean as well.

The paint shop guy said that regular "smelly" mineral spirits was better at dissolving carbon etc, and that the aliphatic variety was best for thinning paint.

I have looked for possible health hazards with acetone, but it doesn´t seem too bad.
MEK on the other hand is more nasty. I also found that it penetrates (evaporates) through most plastic bottles.

Urban

[Hip's Ax]

Felix,
I found a chemical dealer whose prices seem pretty good. He had some Amyl acetate advertised so I sent him the following message:

Greetings, I see you have Amyl acetate for sale, do you perhaps have any Isoamyl acetate?

And his reply:

Good morning, I do have several grades in stock, I have product from several different companies and I also have bulk stock of our own. Thank you for your question and have a nice day.

My question, what grade or brand of Isoamyl acetate would be best? Does it matter?

Thanks!

[montana_charlie]

When I studied the MSDS sheets for the ingredients of ER, I found that deodorized kerosene (for indoor heaters and the like) and aliphatic mineral spirits were the same (at least here in Sweden,
Urban,
I have not researched technical information related to kerosene, as you have done. But, just making some conclusions from knowledge picked up over time...

Kerosene was called 'coal oil' by my Grandmother. 100 years ago, it was obtained by distilling coal...now it is extracted from petroleum. It also closely resembles the main ingredient in jet fuel...which is apparent when you smell the exhaust of a fighter aircraft.

Mineral spirits, extracted from paraffin, is also a petroleum product, but more closely resembles turpentine...and both are used as solvents for thinning paint.

Comparing the two substances, while looking for readily available alternatives, I come up with diesel fuel as a slightly heavier 'kerosene'.
I can't say how well diesel would fit in the Ed's Red formula, but I used it extensively in Vietnam for cleaning heavily fouled machine guns.
CM

[felix]

Isoamyl acetate is stronger than Amyl acetate. Pick the stronger one because it will take less of it to impart the smell you are looking for. Probably does not make any difference unless the cost is out of line for one over the other. Figure on the cost basis and the quantity delivered, hopefully for free. If free, tell the nice guy on the phone you would like to have samples of everything he has in stock. Half pints should be plenty for a lifetime. ... felix

[Dale53]

I would like to make a respectfull suggestion. Use Ed's Red just EXACTLY as he specifies. Ed Harris had an organic chemist looking over his shoulder when he put the product together (it is a modern adaptation of an old Frankfort Arsenal cleaner). It was not casually put together. It is quite possible to put harmless substances together and get some unwelcome surprises. In modern times, Shooters Choice (an excellent gun cleaner) and Sweet's (an aggressive copper solvent) were combined by a number of top notch bench rest shooters that combined to ruin a number of expensive barrels.

Ed's Red is an excellent product and uses readily available components. It has been heavily tested by thousands of shooters and found to be safe and effective. Why in the world would you, unless you are a certified chemist, would you want to take a chance on altering something good into possibly something bad?

Rant over.

Dale53

[hpdrifter]

Hip's Ax, you got me to searching Isoamyl acetate on the wwnet.

Found banana "scent", lanolin, and beeswax(white only) at one location.
http://www.naturesoils.com
The site has been posted here before.

The banan scent MSDS indicates a colorless liqued as does the MSDS for IAcetate. The formula is proprietary so they will not say it contains IA.:)

Got me to thinking about making some Hoppe's No. 9 lube.

[StarMetal]

SUBSTANCE IDENTIFICATION
* Formula
C(7)H(14)O(2)* Structure
(For Structure, see paper copy)* Synonyms
Banana oil, isoamyl ethanoate, 3-methyl-1-butanol acetate, isopentyl acetate, pear oil, 3-methyl-1-butyl acetate* Identifiers
1. CAS No.: 123-92-2
2. RTECS No.: NS9800000
3. UN number: 1104 26 (amyl acetates)
4. DOT label: Flammable liquid
* Appearance and odor
Isoamyl acetate is a clear, colorless liquid with a banana-like odor. An air odor threshold concentration of 0.025 part per million (ppm) parts of air has been reported for isoamyl acetate.

[grumpy one]

Comparing the two substances, while looking for readily available alternatives, I come up with diesel fuel as a slightly heavier 'kerosene'.
I can't say how well diesel would fit in the Ed's Red formula, but I used it extensively in Vietnam for cleaning heavily fouled machine guns.
CM

I suggest you be a bit cautious using diesel. It is "almost" kerosene, but it has some oil added to protect the injection pump, and has some waxy substances extracted to keep from fouling filters in cold weather. More importantly, it is used quite a bit around here by farmers as a medium-term soil-poisoning defoliant, and the fumes are said to be toxic. (Many farmers add dirty engine-oil to the mix to make it long-term defoliant). Personally, I wouldn't care to use the stuff indoors.

Geoff

[hpdrifter]

Starmetal, if you posted that for my benefit, I've already seen that.

The banana "scent" at the candlemaking supply indicated a proprietary formula, so wouldn't disclose anything more than "colorless liquid". Me thinks it's a % formula or a diluted IAA.

If not for my benefit, ......nevermind.

[PatMarlin]

I've still got my first bottle of Hoppe's #9 I bought as a kid in the 60's and it deson't list the ingredients. Made in PA.

Is Kroil, and Marvel Mystery Oil two different products?

[Maven]

joeb, On several trips to the range, I'd run out of Ed's Red, but had some "substitutes" in my shooting box. Both Kroil and WD-40 (separate instances) removed the leading and powder fouling* about as easily as Ed's Red did. The main differences between them is cost and possibly convenience since WD-40 & Kroil don't have to be mixed and come in manageable quantities.


*Smokeless powder fouling can also be removed with isopropyl alcohol or "Moose Milk" (Winchester Sutler's product). A "Chore Boy" copper pad wrapped around a bore brush and used dry or with any of the above named "solvents" will remove both powder and Pb fouling.

[StarMetal]

Starmetal, if you posted that for my benefit, I've already seen that.

The banana "scent" at the candlemaking supply indicated a proprietary formula, so wouldn't disclose anything more than "colorless liquid". Me thinks it's a % formula or a diluted IAA.

If not for my benefit, ......nevermind.

This IS what asoamyl acetate is

SYNONYMS
Amyl acetate, isoamyl ethanoate
DEFINITION
A mixture of acetic acid esters of pentanols
Chemical name
3-Methylbutyl ethanoate (principal component)
C.A.S. number
123-92-2
Chemical formula
C7H14O2
Structural formula

http://www.fao.org/docrep/W6355E/w6355e1h.gif


Look at the chemical formula, what more do you want?

Joe

[StarMetal]

Paul "Maven",

I think you hit the nail on the head. I think alot of us, me included, get carried away with our homemade concoctions, thinking that they are the best in the world, when in reality sometimes they are, most the time they are not. We also go overboard to add different ingredients to the original mixture of whatever the product was, I'm afraid in to either boost ones ego, brag, or be different. I don't know.

Joe

[Hip's Ax]

Felix,
I found a chemical dealer whose prices seem pretty good. He had some Amyl acetate advertised so I sent him the following message:

Greetings, I see you have Amyl acetate for sale, do you perhaps have any Isoamyl acetate?

And his reply:

Good morning, I do have several grades in stock, I have product from several different companies and I also have bulk stock of our own. Thank you for your question and have a nice day.

My question, what grade or brand of Isoamyl acetate would be best? Does it matter?

Thanks!

The guy made a mistake, he has several brands of Isoamyl alcohol, not acetate. I ordered 500ml of his Amyl acetate to play with.

[hpdrifter]

Starmetal, I am speaking of a Banana Scentat a candlemaking supply. I don't know if they use IsoAmyl Acetate or not.

I have seen the chemical formula for IaA, i have seen the msds, and I have read an experiment on how it is made, but I don't know if the Banana "Scent" is made of Isoamyl Acetate (or one of it's other names). I think it probably is. All I am trying to say is there maybe an easier source for it if it is IAA.

I am not questioning the chemical formula or what the compound(ester) is that is called banana oil.

Are we Clear?