trying to fast track the learning curve

[sergeant69]

casted for .38/357 back in the 70's and not since. don't have a lotta time to dedicate to experimenting due to wifes heart transplant and putting beans on the table. anyway......got maybe 200 lbs. of WW and an elec. caster. so, melted the WW into ingots. when its time to cast for .30 cal (308,30-06) and .44, .45acp, and .40 S&W my past experience tells me to melt it ( optimum temp.?), add some solder (how much?), and pour into the mold. get a bunch ready, size and lube and gas check the .30 cal. and then load. i realize theres more to it such as slugging the bbls. to get the correct size dia. sizer etc etc, BUT AM I BASICALLY ON TRACK? these rds. will be used in the .30cal for whitetail out to 100 yds and the pistols for plinking and backup.
don't have a sizer/luber yet but looking at the saeco. THANKS

[randyrat]

Don't worrie about solder unless you need it. Wait until your ready to start casting, using it only to fill out the bullet mold better if needed.
Also, until you decide on a luber sizer, you can use a Lee/or Buckshot push through sizer die and lube by tumble lubing.
To be honest i haven't slugged a barrel in a while. i just cast and size the biggest bullet that will feed,chamber and won't lead. Using a push through die, i bore them out a .0005 at a time until they work good with no leading, educated guessing.
Your on the right track.

[runfiverun]

you got the basic idea.
tin may or may not be needed.
750 or so is usually close.
i'd look at the rcbs.

[MtGun44]

Basically. Save time and size to .311 or .310. Pick a known good mold and known good
lube.

Bill

[Le Loup Solitaire]

Hi and welcome to the forum. there are a number of choices when it comes to lubing and sizing. Other forum members will advise you/make recommendations based on their experience. You mention Saeco and I can help you with that as I have 2 of them; one for several decades (in black crinkle finish) and a newer one (in green crinkle). They're good machiines, well made although a bit pricey nowadays....but good quality workmanship. Good alignment and use a solid stick lubricant as opposed to a stick with a hole in the center. Sizer dies are a bit more spendy as well and the pain in the butt, to some extent is that the top punches are the screw in type and they ain't cheap either. If you want to use the RCBS or Lyman top punches (cheaper) there is a guy on the net that makes an adapter that will do it...for $20. My two have worked well and without problems for many years. I once had a machinist friend make me an adapter so I use a mix of RCBS and Lyman TP's along with the Saecos. You do well to consider it. LLS

[Bass Ackward]

Theory looks good. Cast is NEVER the problem.

I always say that the basics to cast is correcting the mistakes that we create. Another way to say it is the devil comes in the details. Don't worry about problems till they confronts ya?

Maybe you won't be as dumb or unlucky as me either.

[HammerMTB]

No need to waste Sn solder on pistol boolits. You can make good ones without the Sn. Cast them as hot as is practical for ya. I have a PID controller and go up to 800F for some molds. Even without a thermometer you can go up 'til they're frosty, and have good results.
Tho I don't have a .30 cal rifle anymore, I do cast for my .45-70. I use a single cavity mold for max consistency. That's not necessary, but removes a variable. Due to boolit size, you may find the Sn helps with .30 cal. Try it both ways and see.
Beyond that, my only advice is use standard safety precautions, and come back with specific Q's! There's a wealth of info here, and many are glad to share their experience....

[Echo]

My recommendation (worth what you are paying for it!) is to check eBay for a Lachmiller/RCBS lube/sizer. They do the job, use inexpensive dies, and are available and serviceable. A Lyman 450/4500 would probably cost the same, but aren't as desirable, IMO. Should be able to get one for ~$80, plus or minus, delivered. Dies are > $20 new, and so on...

And if you do add solder, remember, more than 3% is wasteful - so, for a full 10-lb pot, 2-4 oz will undoubtedly suffice to improve mold fill-out.