questions of jukar

[garbear]

My dad built a muzzle loader in 45 cal. it looks like a kentucky rifle the barrel is 33 inches long and the barrel says jukar spain on it. I have no idea of twist rate. The barrel had some rust but I have cleaned it out. Can anyone tell me where to go to learn about this rifle. Dad was shooting conicals in it and i have shot all those. I want to get this thing running maybe hunting anterless deer with it on a special hunt in Aug. So I need mold sugestions and how find the twist rate. I have had it inspected and it is safe to shoot.

[n.h.schmidt]

I have one of these. They are very common ,even after many years of out of production. They are slow twist about 1 in 60 or so.This is best for a patched round ball of .440 dia. In most cases this slow twist will not work so well with slugs. I have tried a 200gr Lee Real in mine with marginal results.
Good luck with yours.
n.h.schmidt

[RBak]

That .45 of yours will "most likely' have a twist of 1:48 which was, and still is a very common twist for the .45 caliber.
Jukar came along sometime in the early 1970's. Turner Kirkland at DGW must have sold thousands of those things because they were suddenly seen everywhere.

Although they were considered an entry level gun, many are still around and are still very functional.
One thing is / was fairly obivous with every one I ever looked at, and that was the fact they are not top quality.
However, at the price they were being sold for, they sold a bunch of 'em.

When they were being produced, I remember the advertisement at that time was Jukar was "The world's largest producer of Black Powder guns". I think the advertisement may have sold a lot of guns.

Back in that day Black Powder shooting was just catching on good, and many Gunsmiths didn't want to mess with these guns because parts were extremely hard to come by..... and, if the Gunsmith had to make a part by hand, the repair bill was typically very close to the cost of a new rifle.

Russ...

[waksupi]

The barrels are of very questionable quality. Stick with light loads, and patched round ball only.

[northmn]

They generaly shot a 440 ball. As to hunting with one, it should be a passable deer rifle. 60 grains of 3f will handle most any deer within reasonable range and should shoot OK out of the rifle. You will likely not get outstanding accuracy from it, but should get minute of deer. Also a 45 is generally best used inside of 75 yards although there will be someone who will state that he killed one further. You will have to use a file to sight in the rifle if it isn't close already. Due to the lock you cannot get a really fine trigger pull but should be able to get an adequate one.

Northmn

[garbear]

I am certain Dad built it in the 70's. he said that the slugs he used were accurate I have been cleaning the heck out of it because it has been sitting in his gun safe. I have round ball. His load was 80 grains he didn't remeber if he used ffg or fffg. The slugs had a hollow base and shallow grooves. So do I have a 1-48 twist or the 1-60 twist rate. I have heard both twist rates. Also is there any way to convert to a rock lock.

[John Taylor]

There were a lot of these sold as kit guns. I believe the first one I had was under $40. Parts in the lock are not hardened and prone to ware. Never had reliable ignition. The reamer marks in the bore looked deeper than the rifling. There were several of us trying to shoot these things in competition and they were so pore that we called them "junkers". Closest I ever got to winning was when I won the shoot off for the booby prize, The other Jukar failed to fire. They look neat from a distance hanging on the wall.

[mooman76]

I have more than one Jukar. I would have to say by an educated guess you have a 1/66 twist. that was very common for the .45 Kentucky rifles years ago. Best I can tell they were imported and maketed by CVA. Mine I bought used(in early 80's) and later on converted to a Rock lock a few years later. My parts at that time matched CVA perfectly so either CVA imported them or thet were made an marketed under allot of different names. Back then there weren't allot of BP guns around so there were few manufactures. CVA does their own guns now so I understand.
Anyway since your dad said it shot conicals well I would think it would have a tighter twist than 1/66, more like 1/48. I know that contradicts what I said earlier but it also depends on what you accurate means. One mans accurate is different than another. Mine shoot Lee REALs pretty well except for occational flyers which would tend me to believe that it was on the edge of stability with having the right twist. RBs shot better and it is a decent shooter.
We could go back and forth all day about the twist rate but the best way to find out is take your ram rod with a cleaning jag and a tight patch. Mark the rod where it goes in and mark it 24" up the rod. Push the rod in taking note how far the rod twists. If it goes half way around when you push it in the your gun is 1/48 twist but if it goes 2/3 the way around it is 1/60 or 1/66. I can send you some Lee reals to try in it if you want.

http://www.huntingpa.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1545713

[Mk42gunner]

CVA sold a lot of Jukar kit guns. My first one was a Kentucky pistol that I paid $34.00 for in 1977 or so. I shot a lot of .440" round balls out of mine,and killed quite a few starlings with it. It might not be the best quality, but I had a lot of fun with that pistol.


Robert

[mooman76]

I did a little on line searching on Jukar. I found out the first ones that came out were of poor quality at best. They were ok but at very moderate loads. They didn't have a powder drum instead they had a solid piece attached some how, welded or whatever and they also had allot of barrels with runout. I believe I have one, I bought recently as a kit still in the box from I believe 1973. It seamed ok but I will not put heavy or near loads through it. It says Hopkins$ Allen but also says maid in Spain and what I here Jukar made allot of BP guns for different comanies. My other Jukar is of much better Quality. Far from the best but looks and shoots allot better. I also have a Jukar Flintlock Pistol I bought at a gun show years back for $10. It looked like someone put it together and never blued it but shot it and didn't clean it. I knew the parts were worth that so I bought it, cleaned it up and it turned out so good I hated to fire it but I had to of coarse. I also heard that CVA boght out Jukar in the late 70's.

[John Taylor]

Hopkins & allen is the name Numrich used for their rifles and pistols, including under hammers. They still have a few parts.

[northmn]

I could easily convert the rifle to a rock lock but very strongly recommend against it. You do not have the value in the rifle to make that effort worthwhile. A good flintlock costs more than the Jukar.

Northmn

[bigwillye]

I was given a jukar BP .45 cal rifle with a ball stuck in it. And I've never owned
any BP guns before, is there a removable breach plug and if so how do I get it out? It looks to me that the tang is one piece with the barrel and it comes down infront of what appears to be a breach plug. Also the previous owner while trying to remove the precussion nipple seriously scarred and chewed up the metal thing the nipple screws into and I can't get that to unscrew from the barrel to try a powder charge to expell the ball.......... Needles to say I don't have a bullet puller for the ram rod or any other BP tools....... CAN ANYONE GIVE ME ADVISE ON HOW TO REMEDY THIS SO I CAN SHOOT................. Please email me bigwillye77@yahoo.com


thanks

[izzyjoe]

that thing the nipple screws into is called the powder drum, you migth try soaking it in some kroil oil. if it don't come then bad news!! i was in the same shoes as you once ,and i took an old man and made it a advice wall hanger!!!

[gifford]

I'd second izzyjoe's advice on kroil oil around the threads on the nipple and the powder drum. It wouldn't hurt to pour a bit down the barrel as well. Liquid wrench works well also. Leave it set for a couple days and let the oil loosen things up.

I've helped out several folks with similar problems, sometimes it's a "dry ball" meaning no powder other times it's a loaded gun. ALWAYS assume a muzzleloader is loaded. There is a device called a bullet puller, it's a screw on the end of the cleaning rod attachment. Several friends can be helpfull, one to hold the rifle and you pull on the cleanning rod once the screw is in the recalciterant ball. It may work maybe not.

Good luck on the project.

[RBak]

Several friends can be helpfull, one to hold the rifle and you pull on the cleanning rod once the screw is in the recalciterant ball.

I've called a stuck ball a lot things, but never a "recalcitrant"...always seemed to me that this situation is a perfect place for a liberal application of ever dirty little four letter word you can come up with....and, you don't even have to say 'em out loud.

Suspect I should try this one, for a change. Who knows? This may be the whole secret.

Russ

[gifford]

RBack - The recaliterant ball was stuck good, the screw broke off in the ball. That happens occasionally. Eventually enough powder was coaxed into the nipple hole to shoot it out. Didn't find it though.

I carry a .32 cal ball with a hole in it from the screw on the end of my flint pick; helps remind me, powder - patch - ball in that order.

[docone31]

Gif, I have my wife counting cadence with me when I load. I cannot tell you how many senior moments I have had during that.
I line up the sights, pull back the hammer, set the trigger, pull it, click.
Here we go again!!!!
Uncsrew the nipple, put in some powder. Pack it with the nipple pick, screw the nipple back on, set a cap, set the hammer, pull the trigger. Unscrew the nipple, pour in some more powder, set the cap, set the hammer, pull the trigger. Make a vow to not do that again!
Do it again....
I have even marked the ramrod! By the time I have set the patched ball, or R.E.A.L., it is too late. The marks tell me I did it again!
My wife has done it, I have done it. Both of us, many times.
I had often wondered how it was possible at the range.
That is where I have done it the most.
Oiy....

[waksupi]

Doc, you are setting someone up for a pipe bomb there. You left out, after you add the powder, be SURE the projectile is rammed down fully!


Gif, I have my wife counting cadence with me when I load. I cannot tell you how many senior moments I have had during that.
I line up the sights, pull back the hammer, set the trigger, pull it, click.
Here we go again!!!!
Uncsrew the nipple, put in some powder. Pack it with the nipple pick, screw the nipple back on, set a cap, set the hammer, pull the trigger. Unscrew the nipple, pour in some more powder, set the cap, set the hammer, pull the trigger. Make a vow to not do that again!
Do it again....
I have even marked the ramrod! By the time I have set the patched ball, or R.E.A.L., it is too late. The marks tell me I did it again!
My wife has done it, I have done it. Both of us, many times.
I had often wondered how it was possible at the range.
That is where I have done it the most.
Oiy....

[docone31]

Good point, except I count on some movement of the ball.
I seem to need to do it twice to eject a powderless ball.
The first time, I get enough to open up a space, the second, I get about 10gns of powder into the chamber. I also then verify it is out. My mark on the ramrod is the key there.
I do have to suspect some discretion from folks here.
When someone cares about their smokepole, they do watch out.
Then again, I have seen some at the range.
Makes me glad folks here do point out the weaknesses when they are written.

[RBak]

My wife has done it, I have done it. Both of us, many times.

Doc, any of us who have shot a few years have at least a couple "Oh sh*ts" behind us, and more to look forward to.
Embarrassing? Yes....
Inevitable? Yes....
But....if you shoot enough, it's going to happen as sure as God made little green apples.

Up until about 2 weeks ago, I had a beautiful run of about 3 years, give or take a bit, with nothing going South on me...got downright cocky, I did.

Then out of the clear blue, I dry-balled my .58 Big Boar. (a gun which I just recently acquired.)
Now, this particular barrel is very tight. So tight, in fact that I have to use an OP wad to keep from burning patches with only 60gr FFg and a .575 cast ball.

Anyway, over the years, I have used the Co2 thingy, the worm, and I have have done just as you say... "shoot the darn thing out", and your method is my favorite by far.
Of course, as mentioned, I do make sure the ball is well seated before I do this.

Anytime I seat "higher" than my mark on the ramrod, I know exactly what the next step is...get out the powder!
I automatically go ahead and "firmly" seat the ball, and take out for my Flintlock primer and my nipple wrench. I now carry both even when I'm shooting caps, and in less than a minute or so the problem is solved. If I'm shooting Flint, and my partner is shooting caps, I got us both covered, if I'm shooting just Flint, I got that covered too....amazing what 3gr of FFFFg can do as far as saving time.

Giff, I didn't meant my remarks in a 'bad' way...It's just that I had to look the word up.
After looking it up with Mr. Webster, I decided I liked it.
Can't say I've ever seen it before, certainly never used it, but I like it.
Now, if I can just remember it, I'll be tall cotton, indeed....seems our education never ends.

Russ

[gifford]

Russ - did not think you did. :-) Yep, it's a good word to use in these situations. Dryballs are a fact of life with smokepoles imho.

A friend picked up a .32 flinter pistol at a local gun show, the owner/seller snapped it a few times, good spark. He snapped it a few times at home as well. We took it to the range, he's a new blackpowder shooter, and I showed him how to clean the bore as we couldn't get a rod down the bore. Eventually we got it clean and found out the rod didn't bottom out. We primed it and yep, it had been loaded. We don't know if a ball was present or not. Still, he learned a lesson re smokepoles, it's loaded till it ain't. Taking it apart revealed it was a hand made pistol, no proofs, and interesting construction using one screw to hold all the lock parts together etc. but it shoots just fine with 10-12 grains and .300 ball.

[mooman76]

All it takes is a distration to throw you off and forget. If I did it allot at the range I would get one of those co2 thingies to shoot it out. I don't do it that much but am usually by myself with no distractions.

[mbuckley52]

did you get a reply about getting the ball out?

I cracked the original ram rod but bought a fiberglass one that the end unscrews and there is a ball puller under it. if you can find one (fiberglass rod) try using the ball puller, it may be a pain but should work ok.
mark

[reivertom]

that thing the nipple screws into is called the powder drum, you migth try soaking it in some kroil oil. if it don't come then bad news!! i was in the same shoes as you once ,and i took an old man and made it a advice wall hanger!!!

Many of the drums on those guns were installed with the notion that they shouldn't be removed . Most will not unscrew without tearing up the drum first and the breech plug is even worse.. For some reason they did it on purpose. I have had some that wouldn't come out and I have one barrel that has a removable drum like it should. I think it is a real early one. Don't remove it if it's functional or you will have problems and turn your gun into a paperweight. They simply are not worth the money to have much machine shop work done to them. In other words, don't fix it if it ain't broke!

[Col4570]

A bloke just gave me a Jukar Kit Kentucky rifle.Still in the Box with everything.I intend to check it out as follows,The Breach Plug Threads,The Barrel bore possibly Lead Lapp it,Rework the Flintlock by checking hardness of parts,The Two piece stock and Furniture are Good and with some work will look good.The Touch Hole is undrilled,I will make and fit a stainless removable coned Touch hole insert.For my own safety I will get it proofed.At the Muzzle the Rifling looks very good but I will check it out when I remove the Breach Plug.I have a feeling that this Rifle can be improved to a good standard My main criteria being safety.The 1in66 barrel will be only for patched ball and about 60 grains of 3f.I have in the past made kentuckys from scratch as follows.http://i1052.photobucket.com/albums/s452/livebattery/KentuckyLongRifleJan2012002.jpg (http://s1052.photobucket.com/user/livebattery/media/KentuckyLongRifleJan2012002.jpg.html)

[Col4570]

http://i1052.photobucket.com/albums/s452/livebattery/KentuckyLongRifleJan2012001.jpg (http://s1052.photobucket.com/user/livebattery/media/KentuckyLongRifleJan2012001.jpg.html)
Another View.

[Col4570]

http://i1052.photobucket.com/albums/s452/livebattery/006-2.jpg (http://s1052.photobucket.com/user/livebattery/media/006-2.jpg.html)
This is the Kit Rifle,hopefully it will make a shooter.

[dagger dog]

Nice!

I bought a Jukar kit from the late '60's, it was already assembled, a very poor example of a back yard hobby "builder", the brown patina is real from the first owner letting it RUST, the bore was dark but rifling sharp and it's getting shiner every cleaning, the touch hole on mine works fine even with the weird position in relation to the pan, just keep the pick in the flash hole until priming and use about 3 grs or less, the 5/8" English flint rests just above the pan with the hammer down and throws a good shower of sparks when it flips the frizzen open. I haven't checked the hardness of the frizzen face but it has no scrapes that you can feel with a thumb nail, and it seen its share of shooting.

I started with 65 grains FFg Goex prime with FFFg, 0.440" round ball cast from a Lee mould with wheel weight lead, and a 0.015"thick heavy canvass patch lubed with bees wax, Crisco, canola oil mix. I also built a CVA percussion back in '78 and I shot up to 85 gr FFg without any problems the sound went from a boom to a crack.

The percussion gun would keep 3 shots into a 3" bull rested off a bench @100 yds, the flintlock shows promise even though it's my first experience with one, and my 67 year old eyes are not in the best shape. What a hoot to shoot.

Your Jukar is definitely worth the time to get it shooting, and those pic's are nice eye candy.

[Maven]

Unfortunately many think Jukar = Junker, but that's not entirely justified. Certainly the locks aren't Siler/Jm Chambers quality (but neither is the price); the path from the chamber to the powder charge is a bit convoluted; and the drum's fit to the bbl. (if percussion) needs TLC; but the bbl's. shoot remarkably in spite of these design flaws. In the late '70's and early '80's, those "Kentucky" rifles were very popular and accurate in the hands of a good shooter (not powder pigs either). Glass bedding the bbl. may help overcome the problems with the 2 pc. stock too. Good luck with that kit and show us the finished product + targets!

[Col4570]

An interesting development,the Jukar barrel has a pin through the Barrel where the touch hole is and goes through the Breach Plug.This would appear to be a deactivation.Everything about the Rifle is unused.My intention is to cut the deact section off and make a Nocks breach.About 1" will be removed then replaced with the new Breach plug.

[Col4570]

The Jukar Rifle Barrel,This evening I cut off the plugged section and drilled and tapped the Barrel to 5/8"BSF (British Standard Fine Thread) in the Lathe to take a Nocks Breach.The Next Job is to make the Breach Plug.The Rifling is excellent at 1 turn in 66".Pictures to follow.

[Col4570]

http://i1052.photobucket.com/albums/s452/livebattery/001-49.jpg (http://s1052.photobucket.com/user/livebattery/media/001-49.jpg.html)
Making the Nocks Breach Plug for the Jukar Rifle.

[mooman76]

Looks like you are a real handy kind of guy!

[fouronesix]

"Making the Nocks Breach Plug for the Jukar Rifle."

Question- are you going to drill the clean-out and touch hole perpendicular to the bore axis and intersect at the apex (terminus) of the plug hollow as in the original patent design (as shown in the attached drawing)?

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/webkit-fake-url://2F0809FE-836E-4ACD-9BC6-C5F9B2743968/image.tiff

[Col4570]

fouronesix,yes as you describe,the centre hole will taper and be round at the bottom and the touch hole will have a coned stainless steel insert.
PS,The Stainless steel touch Hole insert is my only concession to modernity.

[aspangler]

I have a percussion Juker in 45 that will shoot cloverleafs at 50 yards using .440 RB, 18 thou. patch, and 50 gr. ffg holy black. Still get hunting accuracy with Pyrodex but not like the real stuff.

[Col4570]

aspangler,thanks for the load info,I am looking forward to seeing what this flint version will do.

[docone31]

That Jukar will do some good thing.Since you have done most of the touble work, then I would use valve lapping compound on about five early patches.Polishes going in, and polishes coming out. The next load after the lapping compound, I would cut a wad for behind the patch and ball. cleans the crud out. Well, mostly.I also took a 1/2 carriage bolt, some lapping compound, and polished the muzzle. Figuired it might not hurt, and when done, it made the rifle shine.My wife loaded the rifle with a double charge of 70gns each, and it took it. She has not forgotten the load, but, it took it and many more after.I think, with the work you are doing, you will have a good shooter.I am making a lefty, back action, Tryon kinda 30" half stock whatever with mine. Nock plug for flinters, made into percussion with a drum.Might be fun. Who knows.Good luck. Looks good so far

[Col4570]

http://i1052.photobucket.com/albums/s452/livebattery/002-34.jpg (http://s1052.photobucket.com/user/livebattery/media/002-34.jpg.html)

[Col4570]

http://i1052.photobucket.com/albums/s452/livebattery/001-50.jpg (http://s1052.photobucket.com/user/livebattery/media/001-50.jpg.html)

[Col4570]

http://i1052.photobucket.com/albums/s452/livebattery/003-13.jpg (http://s1052.photobucket.com/user/livebattery/media/003-13.jpg.html)
Getting there slowly,next job to cut away surplus metal to form the Tang then file to an Octagon.The Touch hole will be marked when the barrel is fitted to the Stock and Lock.Doing this job when I have a bit of spare time,no pressure.

[fouronesix]

fouronesix,yes as you describe,the centre hole will taper and be round at the bottom and the touch hole will have a coned stainless steel insert.
PS,The Stainless steel touch Hole insert is my only concession to modernity.

Understood. I don't know why the Nock's patent drawing won't post, I'm sure you know what it is though. Even some of the early Nock's patent diagrams show a touch hole insert :). Thanks for posting the photos and progress on the project.

Since the forum is acting more stable.. another attempt at posting diagram of Nock's breech

[Col4570]

http://i1052.photobucket.com/albums/s452/livebattery/001-51.jpg (http://s1052.photobucket.com/user/livebattery/media/001-51.jpg.html)
Breach Plug with Tang marked out and ready for cutting.Decided to make a splayed tang rather than the Jukar short straight Tang with the rounded end.

[Col4570]

Yes both of the designs have faults that lead to a blocked or restricted Chamber.I have previously had success by making the conjunction of the centre hole and the touch hole insert more direct so that when the Powder is loaded it comes into the Coned touch hole insert.My insert will be threaded to take the additional force of this modification,the ignition can be as fast as a percussion Rifle.

[Col4570]

http://i1052.photobucket.com/albums/s452/livebattery/002-35.jpg (http://s1052.photobucket.com/user/livebattery/media/002-35.jpg.html)
The Tang sawed out,next job to file to shape.

[Col4570]

http://i1052.photobucket.com/albums/s452/livebattery/001-52.jpg (http://s1052.photobucket.com/user/livebattery/media/001-52.jpg.html)
another View.The material for the Breach Plug is Silver Steel and will remain unhardened to retain its tough specs.

[Col4570]

http://i1052.photobucket.com/albums/s452/livebattery/002-36.jpg (http://s1052.photobucket.com/user/livebattery/media/002-36.jpg.html)
Filed to shape.

[Col4570]

http://i1052.photobucket.com/albums/s452/livebattery/003-14.jpg (http://s1052.photobucket.com/user/livebattery/media/003-14.jpg.html)
Plug and Tang removed,next job to fit barrel to the stock and line up the touch hole and Tang screw.

[docone31]

You have done an amazing job with that.I do reccomend though, that you polish the chamber. It kinda looks large for a nock, and cleaning jags will stick.I plan on cutting off the plug on mine, and hand tapping the threads. I am interested in where you put your liner. My thoughts are on mine to use the measurements from the original, and move them up for the breechplug. The original barrel is 33.5" so, removing the end 1/2" or so, with the 1" extra on the plug I am looking at, it will be close to the original length.Good clean work on that rifle barrel. I bet it is a winner once stocked.

[Col4570]

Yes,measure where the original touch hole is then cut the breach off forwards of this allowing for sufficient metal at the plug shoulder to fit a touch hole liner.My barrel is 33 7/16" so all measurements are related to that.I have in the past made plugs to these specs with success.Yes I will polish the breach internaly.The liner position will be marked off when the Barrel is fitted to the Stock.The Breach plug has a taper followed by a straight drilling to the depth where the touch hole will join the centre hole.The taper acts as a tundish and directs the powder into the breach drilling.The touch hole liner will be stainless Steel and be coned internaly so that there is a small distance for the flame.

[docone31]

I am wondering, if it might be possible to remove the powder drum, then drill and tap the other side, plugging the original hole.Might this make it too weak under a charge?Just a query.

[fouronesix]

It's commonly done when connecting a nipple flash hole or flinter touch hole w/liner to a larger seat where the smaller flash/touch hole is drilled from the opposite side. It is then D&T'd, plugged with a screw and filed to barrel surface or left as a slot head (or hex) screw and called a "clean out". Even many drums have a D&T'd "clean out" on the end. I'd say plenty strong if D&T'd correctly- after all, a nipple seat, drum seat or touch hole with liner was there to begin with. Diagram on right shows this if this is what you are asking about?

The plugged hole if done poorly, would be just as weak as a poorly done nipple seat, drum seat or touch hole liner if there were no "clean out" on the opposite side to begin with. Or the other way to look at it: if the plugged hole is done properly, it would be as strong as a nipple seat, drum seat or touch hole liner in a gun with no "clean out" on the opposite side to begin with.

[Col4570]

http://i1052.photobucket.com/albums/s452/livebattery/001-56.jpg (http://s1052.photobucket.com/user/livebattery/media/001-56.jpg.html)
The breach Plug fitted and the kit jury rigged for photo purposes.

Docone31,as fouronesix says given the extra metal of the plug it should be quite safe.

[Col4570]

http://i1052.photobucket.com/albums/s452/livebattery/001-58.jpg (http://s1052.photobucket.com/user/livebattery/media/001-58.jpg.html)
The Stainless Steel Touch Hole Insert fitted.The touch hole is located level with the top of the Lock Pan.

[Col4570]

http://i1052.photobucket.com/albums/s452/livebattery/002-38.jpg (http://s1052.photobucket.com/user/livebattery/media/002-38.jpg.html)
A clearer view.

[Col4570]

http://i1052.photobucket.com/albums/s452/livebattery/Jesse%20at%207%20Months%20015_4.jpg (http://s1052.photobucket.com/user/livebattery/media/Jesse%20at%207%20Months%20015_4.jpg.html)
Getting there slowly,it is starting to look the part.The underlugs are not fitted yet.I have slimmed down the Timber,sanded and whiskered once.The Timber is Beech and should take on a good finish and colouring.

[Col4570]

http://i1052.photobucket.com/albums/s452/livebattery/Jesse%20at%207%20Months%20015_5.jpg (http://s1052.photobucket.com/user/livebattery/media/Jesse%20at%207%20Months%20015_5.jpg.html)
Underlugs fited and Barrel pinned to the Stock

[Maven]

Excellent workmanship, Col4570! I stand in awe of your skills.

[Col4570]

Thanks Maven,I must say that Jukar where quite precise with their measurements making the Job easier than some Kits.The Timber had a Heavy look and it was necessary to reduce it all round to give the Rifle that slim appearance.I have decided not to fit a Patch Box (not supplied)to keep a simple primitive look.

[Buckshot]

.............A very nice looking bit of work you've done. More then a 'bit' I realize! :-)

...............Buckshot

[Col4570]

.............A very nice looking bit of work you've done. More then a 'bit' I realize! :-)

...............Buckshot
I had left it for a while and just returned to it.A good bit of therapy,thanks for your remarks.
Regards.

[Col4570]

Tested for ignition today,getting a good shower of sparks,using a blank BP charge she ignites fast.Next Job Proofing the Barrel (fingers crossed).Looking down the Barrel the Rifling is well defined and fairly deep at 1 turn in 66"x 6 Grooves.Hopefully it will make a good up to 100 Yard Rifle keeping the charge as low as possible with a patched ball.Although not amongst the High quality range,I am quite impressed by Jukar, the kits need a bit of finesse during the build,ie wood to metal fit etc but overall I have enjoyed the experience.

[Col4570]

http://i1052.photobucket.com/albums/s452/livebattery/001_1.jpg (http://s1052.photobucket.com/user/livebattery/media/001_1.jpg.html)
Close up of Lock area after whiskering the Timber.

[Col4570]

http://i1052.photobucket.com/albums/s452/livebattery/002_7.jpg (http://s1052.photobucket.com/user/livebattery/media/002_7.jpg.html)
Showing some of the furniture.

[Col4570]

http://i1052.photobucket.com/albums/s452/livebattery/001_2.jpg (http://s1052.photobucket.com/user/livebattery/media/001_2.jpg.html)
The Jukar Barrel back from the Proof House (it Passed OK),ready for Browning the Barrel.One Coat of Alkanhet Oil applied to the stock,more coats to follow until the desired finish.

[FrontierMuzzleloading]

excellent color for that wood!

[Col4570]

excellent color for that wood!
Yes Alkanhet does give a good colour,For the Stain I mix White Spirit(Paint Brush cleaner)with Alkanhet and some Lamp Black from the Greenhouse Kerosene (Parafine as we call it) Heater.I usualy apply two or three coats into the stock,When these have penetrated I mix Raw Linseed Oil with a little white Spirit and some Terebin Driers (Paint Hardener).I apply the final coats with some Wet and Dry fine Abrasive Paper,wipe off the excess and rub with the palm of my hand in a circular motion.I repeat a few times always wiping off the excess,then I finely hand rub when the oil is sticky prior to drying.The stock now has a penetrated layer and does not feel like it has a build up,it is easy to maintain with a little Linseed oil every now and then.

[Col4570]

http://i1052.photobucket.com/albums/s452/livebattery/004_1.jpg (http://s1052.photobucket.com/user/livebattery/media/004_1.jpg.html)
First Rusting,1/2 Pint of Rainwater,2 Teaspoons Hydrochloric Acid,1/2 Teaspoon Copper Sulphate,3 Teaspoons of Whiskey.(enough to last for many Guns).As follows:- degreased,applied solution,Scalded after 12 Hours.(one Kettle of boiling water poured over the rusted barrel).Next job to card off the Rust and repeat as many times that it takes (usualy four passes)

[Col4570]

http://i1052.photobucket.com/albums/s452/livebattery/Completed%20Jukar%20Flintlock%20Rifle%20001.jpg (http://s1052.photobucket.com/user/livebattery/media/Completed%20Jukar%20Flintlock%20Rifle%20001.jpg.ht ml)
The Rifle Completed.

[mooman76]

Great job. Looks real good!

[Col4570]

Great job. Looks real good!
Thank you,"The proof of the Pudding is in the eating" Fingers crossed.Now to try the Rifle at 100 yards when I can get down the Range.

[Col4570]

Took the Jukar to the Range Yesterday (Sunday) at 100 Yards the first shot hit the top of the Target Frame.Experienced some Flash in the Pans and Touch Hole Blockages.Other shots where on Target using 65 grains of 3f Vesuvit Chzech BP,.437 Ball and Denim Patched.My touch hole insert had a Micro Hole so I have opened it a little.Surprisingly at 100 Yards it is shooting With little trajectory.I was using 3f for priming,I crushed some on site and had more success but the touch hole seemed to be the Pig in the Poke.