Lead boolits in polygon barrel

[piece]

Hi, new here and subject is probaly already discussed earlier, anyhow I have some Vektor pistols with polygon barrels in. As you probably is aware of these are Beretta 92 clones. I have one i 9mm and one in .40S&W both of them shoots terrible with lead boolits. They are tubling and will not group nice on the target. I have tried alot of different mould designs, but let us focus on the 9mm first. I have triend Lee moulds and Saeco moulds with boolit weights from 100gr to 125gr, none of these works well and are all sized to .356 in a Saeco lubrisizer with Saeco Green lube. I mainly use VV powder and most attempts have been made with N-340 powder. Any suggestions what to do?

Sorry missed some, boolits are made of pure lead with approx 10%tin and waterdropped.

[mpmarty]

Welcome Piece.
You need some antimony in your mix. 10% tin is a waste as 2% is plenty.
Without antimony or arsenic water dropping doesn't harden boolits at all.

[KYCaster]

Try sizing to .358. Polygon barrels often like fatter boolits.

Jerry

[piece]

I have tried with a mix of 50% WW as well, same result.
If I size boolits to .358 then the sizing die do not evet touch the boolit. I tried a Lee mould for .358 105gr boolits a couple of weeks agos, iI sized them .357 and nothing was any better for this. Could of course try .358 also, but im not sure if they will fit the case then, i thought .357 was tight.

Most fun of it is that they cause no leading at all in my barrel.

[Dan Cash]

Try beagleing your mold and fire the bullets without sizing if they will chamber.

[piece]

Try beagleing your mold and fire the bullets without sizing if they will chamber.

Could somone please explain beagleing to me?

[shotman]

If you use pure ww or even the zinc ones mixed in you will do better You need the boolit as hard as you can get it to ride the rifling and not jump it. I have had that work for the glocks.
You dont need to "beagle" that is putting grinding compound on a boolit and spinning it to make mold larger

[Wayne Smith]

You dont need to "beagle" that is putting grinding compound on a boolit and spinning it to make mold larger

No, that's lapping the mold. Beagling is the use of high temp alum. tape on the mold to increase boolit diameter. There is a sticky on it. Look in 'Classics and Stickies'.

[44man]

.356" is too small. You need very hard lead too for that rifling.

[chris in va]

Here's my 9mm journey, in a nutshell.

I had horrible tumbling with any .355 boolit I tried, except for FMJ. Everything leaded badly and just skidded down the barrel of my CZ, KAHR (polygonal) and HiPoint carbine. The worst offender was a 147gr FP that was given to me for my experiments.

On the advice of the gurus on here, I bought a Lee mold designed for the 38 special, a 125gr RNFP that drops at .362. I then bought a 358 sizing die and voila...not only doesn't it tumble any more but I can hit a 12" steel plate at 75 yards with the CZ half the time, all the time with my carbine.

http://www.grafs.com/retail/catalog/product/productId/7977

Oh and I just use clip on wheelweights. Pure lead is much too soft.

[mooman76]

You don't have to have real hard bullets. They just need to be the proper size. Try slgging yor bore and seeing where it is at. As stated that type of rifling tends to run a little big some times. I used straight WWs air cooled in my Glock 40 and did fine. I just used them as dropped.