long range heavies

[hunter2]

Was looking into some .375's at 350 or 400 grs. for hogs and long range plinking. I have never cast a boolit but have put a lot down range. I have several questions that is in dire need of somebody with more gray matter than I possess. Have been shooting 357 and 510 subsonic. Recovered bullets have all the lube they started with - Do I need it? Would less and shallower grooves suffice? This should open up a can....Subsonic, the most drag is at the base and in theory you need a nose heavy bullet for long range ( yet - they use pointed bullets for thousand yd matches to put down rams ). But I need the wide meplate, lets say I made a bullet with a tangential ogive of 50%, just a couple of shallow grease grooves, cast for a gas check of about .15, but don't put one on it...NOW, load the bullet upsidedown! Take it easy. I am new at this, so don't shoot me yet. Have been loading and shooting a 300 whisper with 180 speer bt backwards for some time with great acc.. Have had larger bullets to stick in the barrel - don't ask. If shot straight they just push meat aside and go on through. Was looking for a design for 357 up that would smack hard with very little speed loss. Probally left out a lot, but some expert help would be appreciated. thanks

[Mk42gunner]

hunter2,

Welcome aboard.

Yes you need lube, even at subsonic velocities. The most artistic description of this that I have read is by Dean Grennell, about when he first started casting and reloading; I believe the story is in all of his books.

Hard, waxy, crayon type lubes that are on commercial cast bullets are not necessarily the best for lubing, but they do stay in the grooves during shipping. A softer lube will probably work better. there is a section on lubes further down the main page.


Robert

[HORNET]

This sounds like a good project to drop on Veral. Look up LBT (Lead Bullet Technologies) and discuss your proposed design with him. He's a little pricy, but his molds are excellent and his custom designs seem to work well. He'll probably tell you if what you think you want will work or if you're full of bean dip.

[MT Gianni]

IMO a boolit base is one of the most important parts. Jacketed are tough enough to stay together down the bbl, boattail cast projectiles have had problems with accuracy. i would go for a nose diameter of 75% or so and you should kill plenty of hogs with that weight boolit.

[45 2.1]

Take a look at the 378-275GC:
http://www.brp.castpics.net/R1.html

A very good accurate long range puncher.

[RobS]

I am awaiting this mold (378-275GC) from BABore and it looks to be a good one for my 375 H&H.

[1Shirt]

I have lyman 375449 in unaltered, and HP, and they shoot very well in my 375's at vols from 1600-2200 fps.
1Shirt!:coffee:

[RobS]

BABore, I believe, also has a cherry cut for a 300 grain HP mold that would be heavier without the HP and may be what you are after.

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?t=73690&highlight=375+H%26H

He talks about this particular bullet (post #4 & #7)and has pics of it in the above thread

When I was looking into the 378-275-GC he mentioned he had an unlisted 378-315-GC bullet as well. I do not know if this is the same bullet design he was refering to in the mentioned thread or not.

More food for thought.

[cajun shooter]

Maybe the hogs are tougher in your neck of the woods than here in Louisiana. We shoot and kill them with 44-40 Black powder loads behind the Lyman 427098 ore the Mav-Dutchman style bullets. Most people don't shoot a hog in the correct area and therefore have recovery problems. Plus very pi____ off hogs looking to put something on you.

[1Shirt]

CajinShooter lives in the real world, and I agree with him!
1Shirt!:coffeecom

[hunter2]

It is not that the hogs are meaner. The case is a little large and a heavier bullet is easier to control subsonic. 260 or 275 probably won't cut it. Thanks anyway...