How I cleaned my Lee pot...

[DEVERS454]

I tried the boiling method, and it got it fairly free of crud. I use the 10lb for pure lead and the 20lb for 20:1. I have a third pot I use for hard alloy, but, its still in the garage... I don't have a need to case with that just yet.

I did take and wear a respirator mask and took out my 18v cordless drill with a pair of stainless steel wire brushes. (one facing forward, the other a side scraper)

After about 15min, the tank on my 20lb pot was VERY clean. The 10lb pot is PREISTINE!

I coated each with a paper towel soaked in olive oil and let them heat up. I did this again before putting alloy in.

The 10lb pot is as good as new.

But, the 20lb pot spout still drips!!!

What is the prefered method to cleaning that darn spout???

Anyone remember what it took to get the profile on the spout rod to look right?

[Bucks Owin]

I ruined the original pot in my old 10 lb Prod Pot by trying to "fix" the leaky spout with valve grinding compound. Leaked worse than before and I ended up drilling and plugging the pot for the next decade or two....

Recently, I bit the bullet and ordered a new pot for a whopping $8 as I remember and it has worked fine. (Although the spout is "shorter" on the replacement pot and not as easily visible as the original) When it starts to leak more than I'd like I usually put a small can under the spout and "bounce" the lever several times. If that doesn't work, I'll try the bristles of a small brass brush pushed up into the spout. This is tricky with molten alloy in the pot so be careful! The brush has cleared any "junk" that has formed in the spout that "bouncing" hasn't cleared...(so far!)

It's probably best to just resign yourself to the notion that Lee P-Pots are going to leak somewhat at times and learn to live with it... :roll: It has worked for me anyway....

Now if I was to spring the bigger bucks for a RCBS or Lyman etc I wouldn't be quite as tolerant!

FWIW,

Dennis

[454PB]

In my experience, it's the metering rod that needs cleaning. If you remove it and look, it usually has a build up of crud just above the tapered section. I keep a dental pick nearby for use in clearing the spout. I put in in the hole. then lift the valve and run the pick in about 1/2" a few times. You'll spill about 2 ounces of lead as this is done, and the flow of lead washes out the crud.

[swheeler]

D454; My Lyman moldmaster and old Saeco 24? both dripped no matter what I did, finally I started touching a piece of bullet lube onto the hot spout, drip gone.

[DEVERS454]

I am gonna finish out what I have in the 20lb pot (20:1) and then give it another cleaning and see if I can't get the spout cleaned once and for all.

I also see that the bracket that lifts the metering rod is catching a bit on the bolts that hold it to the pot. I will wire brush and polish those as well.

I did wire brush and polish the metering rod, but, the problem must be in the nozzle on the pot... Any suggestions on how to clean it out? Maybe a brass.17 cleaning brush and some commet? Some pipe cleaners as well, maybe?

[montana_charlie]

My pot is the old Lyman Mould Master, so the 'handle arm' is made of flat stock. I drilled holes in a spare lead ingot and made matching holes in the arm. The ingot is held on with small wood screws threaded into the lead.

The extra weight seems to be enough to keep the stem seated in the spout...for curing 'the drip'.

I think the reason my spout doesn't get plugged is that I don't flux (or even lubricate moulds) with bullet lube or beeswax.

I only use beeswax to make bullet lube, and I only use bullet lube to...well...lube bullets.

Since learning about it here, I only flux with a wooden stick...
CM

[Bucks Owin]

I've been using some bullet lube (pea size) and sawdust (Tablespoon) but I think just the sawdust would work as well...

Maybe I'll splurge $7.95 for a jar of Marvelux....It oughta last a lifetime

FWIW,

Dennis

[georgeld]

I've had a propot IV for many yrs and no doubt have run 3-4 ton of lead & mixture thru it. About 4yrs ago the spout got plugged and nothing I did, or could figure would help. Not even a wire up in it.

Gave up and drilled it out. OF course I wrecked it. Ended up mailing it back to Lee for a repair to the spout I thought, or had planned anyway.

Well dear old Lee lived up to their promise's and rebuilt it to like new. New liner, knob, stem/spout etc. Same one as it still had my name engraved a couple place's.
but it was like new when it came back to me.

Total cost was maybe $12.

At the same time I ordered a new one for back up just in case. That's still nib.
Am just guessing but, believe I've melted/cast over 500#'s in this rebuild without problems. It did clog up a couple weeks ago and bouncing it didn't help, but, an alum welding rod with the spout opened cleared it right out.

I highly recommend rather than trying to clean one, or fight it much, just send it back to Lee. Only takes a week or two and it will be fixed, that you can count on. They are a fine company, just don't send cash as you won't be happy about the results, not even five bucks. That's the only gripe I've ever had with Lee and I have a bunch of their stuff because it's cheaper and easier to use for me and I like the results.

Wish you well,

George

[mazo kid]

I have both a Lee P-Pot and an RCBS pot. I use the Lee more than the RCBS. When it starts to drip, or maybe not run freely enough, I grip a small hex key by the short arm with a pair of pliers and insert it from the bottom, then twist it back and forth a few times. You won't lose much lead and usually this cures both problems . At least for a while. Emery

[BPCS]

I have had two Lee bottom pour pots and both leaked. My solution was to weld up the hole on the spout and remove the lever handles. I now use them for ladle casting and find the quality of the bullets is much better.

BPCS

[robertbank]

There is no cure but I just insert a paper clip every once in awhile holding it with a pair of pliars . Pot stops dripping for awhile anyway. Got to be a cure but I suspect it is only comes in the name of Lyman/RCBS!

Take care

Bob

[Dale53]

Make no mistake, RCBS and Lyman pots drip from time to time also. I just rap the vertical rod a couple of times and keep going. One of these days I am going to add weight to the valve rod as several people here have suggested it as a permanent fix.

Dale53

[KCSO]

It may not be the rod or the spout itself, the Lee spouts are crimped on and if they get bumped or are not well crimped they leak. I have brezed several and that cured the leak. With the pot empty and cold try and wiggle the spout, if ther is any movement at all the spout will leak.

[pjh421]

Bucks Owin,

I know this is an old thread but I noticed you paid $8 for a replacement pot. I did the same thing you did with the drill and my replacement cost the same. Not surprising, except that this happened in '91.

DEVERS454,

The only way I was able to prevent the Lee pot from leaking onto my bench was to give it to a friend who was new to casting and couldn't afford a lot of equipment all at once. The next pot was an RCBS. You can make those leak too but a piece of wire when its hot or pouring boiling water into it when its cold solves the problem.

Marvelux is the stuff (no smoke).

Paul

[Boz330]

I've never been that impressed with the Marvelux. The best flux that I ever had was from NEI years ago no smoke and not much residue. I don't know if the stuff that they are selling now is the same but if it is it's good stuff.
Bob

[dragonrider]

IMHO Marvelux is the worst thing to put in your pot,. It will crud up the walls and it attracts moisture so it will rust your pot. Nothing goes in my pots but lead and sawdust, or planer shavings.

[AZ-Stew]

I've been sitting here reading these, wondering why several of you have mentioned ruining your pots by drilling the spouts. I did this about 30 years ago to my 10# Production Pot, and recently to my new Pro 4-20 before I ever filled it. The drill (.156 dia.) was run in from the bottom to enlarge the hole for faster pour and to reduce clogging. The faster flow gives me bullets that are more consistently filled out, and clogging is reduced. I occasionally have to open the valve and just let the metal flow into an ingot mould for a few seconds to wash out the spout, but I haven't had any problems. Unfortunately, the drips haven't stopped. I've had short term success by using a screwdriver in the slot provided in the top of the valve rod and giving it a few turns. I've been trying to figure out a good fix for both that involves using a weight on the rod, is simple and one where the same fix works for both styles of pot.

Personally, I don't see where I'll get a big increase in value for the 2.5 times cost of a Lyman or RCBS furnace. If the only improvement is a reduction in drip rate, thanks, but I'll stick with the Lees.

Regards,

Stew