Freon Tank

[Rockydog]

I have an empty freon tank that someone ventilated with a FMJ and left at the range. The bottom half has no holes. These seem a little light steel wise. Are these thick enough to use as a smelting pot on my turkey frier? I'm thinking that I'd cut around the seam leaving enough for handle tabs on each side. If not it's no big deal as I've got a good plumbers furnace but it never hurts to have a spare. RD

[steg]

I'd give it a try, what the heck, but I wouldnt go with alot of volume the first couple of times that you use it, plus I'd give it a try before going all the way and putting handles on it and all.
I'm planning to ventilate a 20 lb propane cylinder the first time I actually remember to bring it along to the range, and go from there................steg

[Buckshot]

...............The only real problem with 'Thin' steel would be with concentrated heat. It's possible to apply enough heat to one localized area that the parent metal (the metal of the container), and/or the material to be melted couldn't disipate the heat fast enough to keep it from weakening or even rupturing. You can look at it like boiling water in a paper cup on a gas stove.

..............Buckshot

[steg]

Buckshot, I never looked at it that way, it does make sense, what do you think about the thicker metal of the propane tank?

[lwknight]

There is also a very thin pressure relief plug in the bottom that will likely rust out very quickley once the paint is burned off.
I don't think it would make a good pot.
I do think that an old 20# propane tank would make a good smelting pot with legs welded onto it for stability.

[Boondocker]

I would'nt trust a freon tank as it is way to thin of gauge steel to last ,plus the relief plug will go. I cut an old 20# propane tank apart and it is at least a 14 gauge steel nice and heavy. I cut 3 notch's in the lower band to sit on the turkey fryer securely and made a tin heat shield to capture more heat. Now I use my waste oil smelter for economy with a heavy pipe pot.:o

[deerslayer]

Propane tank works great, make sure it is empty, pull the valve, fill with water overnight, cut just above the weld with a saws all, leave halves out side for a dew days to air out the mercapten, fill bottom half with plumbeous material and smelt. Works Great You can also make a heat sheild out of the top half if needed

[RobS]

Here is one with a propane tank.

[gebudjr]

Hey guys, I used the bottle your refering too, 30lb can. I cut off at the seam, welded a 4 foot handle, kind of like a mid evil looking spoon. Build a ground fire and filled with a couple hand fulls of wheel weights and in about 15 minutes I had molten lead. about a 5gallon bucket worth of lead poured into ingots. I have used it about three times so I really cant say on its longevity.

Gilbert

[MT Gianni]

The key to a freon tank or many light metals is transference. You want the WW to be in contact with a lot of metal and adding new ones to liquid metal. If I used one I would keep at least 2" of melted metal in the bottom for a cold start and never empty it fully.

[kodiak1]

I cut or better started to cut a freon tank apart one time with the plasma, The smoke and the stink that come out of that cylinder NEVER EVER AGAIN my health is worth way more that getting that tank bottom.

Good Luck
Ken.

[hammerhead357]

One of my small propane forges is made from a freon tank. I cut the ends out with a jig saw and then built the forge line it with Kaowool and fired it up. First time the smoke and odor ran me out of the shop. I let it keep heating until it burned all of the paint of the outside and whatever was on the inside. Then shut it down and the next time I used it everything was ok.
But kodiak is correct the smell and smoke was nastry and if I ever did it again I think I would burn all of the stuff off and out of the thing outside....Wes

[Rockydog]

Thanks for all of the input guys. I think I'll find another use for it. RD

[ammohead]

That awful smell is phosgene gas. EXTREMELY deadly. Basically what they used in WWI. Never have a open flame in the same room with freon!

ammohead

[TCLouis]

Boondocker

Tell me more about your burner design for using waste oil as a heat souce.

I use limbs from around the place and scraps from the woodworking to create a pyre and typically melt several hundred (300-500) pounds in a 1/2 of a 10(?) gallon water heater tank. A thick blanket of sawdust on top of the melt seems to prevent oxidation pretty well.

One or two more melts and I will be out of raw materials for WW alloy.

[rtracy2001]

Check around propane places. I was able to pick up two 20 lb retired bottles that had the valves removed for free. I intend to go back and get some more for other projects. I cut my tanks with a 4.5" grinder and cut-off wheel. It would have been really easy if i hadn't burned a pinhole through the side of the tank when welding legs on (where is that drip drip drip sound coming from?). After patching the leak, all was well.

[DLCTEX]

I well remember the smell of burning freon. A leak detector we had in our shop used a hose that connected to a propane torch and the flame pulled freon gas, if any. up to the flame and turned the flame green and smelled terrible. The hose was passed around fittings and seals to find a leak. Does this explain why my brother is so weird?:p

[Boondocker]

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?t=66588&highlight=waste+oil

TC I copied a design off of Rhubarb on the site here and it works pretty slick. You do not want to have it blowing towards the neighbors on a breezy day. It does have a light emission but not bad. I live out in the country so It works good for me. Here is a link to the posting I made previously.:bigsmyl2:

[dualsport]

Shooting a propane tank can be very surprising, I know. Even with the valve open and seems empty, kaboom! Don't know how that happened, but it did. You wanna be way far away from the tank.

[MT Gianni]

Dualsport, with a heavier than air gas and a 1-10 perfect ratio of gas to air for combustion, it's easy to see it happening

[rtracy2001]

Even with the valve open and seems empty

The newer tanks have a valve inside the valve to prevent the tank from venting unless an accessory is installed.

Just have a propane place pull the valve out for you, it is safer and easier than trying to vent the tank yourself.

[gl1800]

Propane tank works great.

http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii71/trimadge/Reloading/Casting/Casting-bullets-11Small-1.jpg

[sniper]

[QUOTE=Rockydog;867373]I have an empty freon tank... These seem a little light steel wise. Are these thick enough to use as a smelting pot on my turkey frier? /QUOTE]

I have a buddy that used coffee cans for a smelter/casting pot, but, he used a Coleman stove. Those are thinner than a freon tank, and he had no problems. It should work fine, but a propane tank mght work better.

Aluminum is the stuff you have to watch. It loses its "solidus" at near casting temps, which, if I understand, weakens it so it can give way at the worst possible moment. Not good!

[Gussy]

I cut or better started to cut a freon tank apart one time with the plasma, The smoke and the stink that come out of that cylinder NEVER EVER AGAIN my health is worth way more that getting that tank bottom.

Good Luck
Ken.



NEVER.....NEVER......NEVER...... EVER apply a flame to a freon tank.

Flame and freon make phosgene gas. The same gas used by the Germans in WWII.

[BOOM BOOM]

HI,
GUYS THOSE TANKS WILL DO.
I have been using #10 coffie cans over camp fires for years. I have literally melted 2,000 lbs of tire wts. this way over the last 10 yrs.. Have lost maybe 2-3 cans so far.
When can gives way, there is just a puddle of lead on the ground, I scoop it up after it cools, & just remelt it in the next can.
I DO NOT EVEN DRINK COFFIE, I got about 10-15 cans laying around at school about 10+ yrs. ago, & still have most of them.
BOOM BOOM'S PIONEER CAMPFIRE METHOD