PID help

[paul45120]

I'm putting together a PID controller for my lead pot. Everything is together and wired.
The problem is I don't have any DC control voltage for my SSR from the PID. (terminals 7&8)
I e-mailed Auber. Waiting for a response.
Anybody have any ideas. The SSr works fine when jumped with a 9 volt battery .

[lurch]

Need some more information...

What controller? Do you have a link to the instruction manual? Assuming you got it from Auber, their part number would suffice. Are you sure that you have a model that is designed to drive a SSR? Some have mechanical relay outputs that are simply a set of contacts across the output terminals.

How exactly are you determining that the SSR is operating correctly? I am assuming that you have the SSR in the power circuit for you pot and when you apply a voltage to the control terminals of the SSR the heating element becomes energized. Correct?

[paul45120]

The PID is model #SYL 2342.
Yes when I apply external voltage (9 volt battery) The pot energizes.

[cheese1566]

Model 2342 is the relay output model according to their website.

You will need to add an additional DC power source in between the PID output contacts and the SSR.

I have a couple of relay style PIDS from Lee W benefit sale. I was planning on using some old cellular phone chargers to drive the SSR's. Cell phone chargers are typically about 5 volts DC and are generally a regulated type power supply. I know I have about a good half dozen around from old obsolete cell phones. There is 120 volts comig into the unit anyways to drive the PID and SSR output, so adding the cell phone wall charger wouldn't be too bad-just more space.

[RaymondMillbrae]

Brother,

I'm no electrician, but here's something that might help you.

1) Get any adaptor you have laying around your house. (Cell phone, ear piece, ipod, etc...). If you look at your SSR, you will see that they usually will work with a variety of low DC volt adaptors. (Anywhere in between 3-32VDC).

http://xb6.xanga.com/9cbf923208035265855784/b212025447.jpg



Now wire it according to my schematic below. (I am using a different PID device that yours...but just focus on the AC to DC adaptor part). If you have prongs on your adaptor, just solder the wires to the prongs, and remember the prongs are the 110v side.

http://x21.xanga.com/df7f6034c1232265855782/b212025445.jpg



Best wishes!

In Christ: Raymond

[lurch]

Yep, the 2342 is a mechanical relay output. What you need for the same form factor & function is the 2352.

[Rock]

Raymond, if I am using a plastic box for building my pid controller, and following your schematic:

Where do I attach the loose end of the ground that comes off the block labled E?

[lurch]

Raymond, if I am using a plastic box for building my pid controller, and following your schematic:

Where do I attach the loose end of the ground that comes off the block labled E?

To your heatsink.

[RaymondMillbrae]

Raymond, if I am using a plastic box for building my pid controller, and following your schematic:

Where do I attach the loose end of the ground that comes off the block labled E?

From my understanding...nowhere.

It is the green ground wire for the 3-prong plugs. You don't really need it. (Look again carefully at the wiring diagram).

If you have a 3-prong plug installed (male and female end connected to the barrier strip), they will automatically be grounded as soon as it is plugged into your 110v household outlet. (This is assuming your house was wired correctly, and the outlet is properly grounded).

If you are using a PLASTIC BOX, you don't need it. But if you have a METAL BOX, then connect it to the box via a screw someplace.

Correct me if I am wrong.

In Christ: Raymond

[paul45120]

Thanks for the help guys. I had a small12v. charger laying around and used it. Thought that was better than shipping the PID back and getting a different one.

[paul45120]

I finally got the controller to work properly.
While testing last night the PID was functioning right. However the SSR still wasn't. It would only reset and supply power if I unplugged the pot between cycles. Also the pot was very slow to heat up.
Today I rewired everything with new wire, connectors ect. Still a no go with the SSR.
I made the trip into town to see the local electrical supplier. He had an old used 16VDC relay. He let me have it cheap. This thing looked like it's been on the shelf for 50 years. It even had leads on it where it had been removed from whatever it was in.
I installed the "new" relay and presto!!! It works.
Been testing it now for about an hour hooked up to a lamp. Set my proses temp at 100 and set the TC on the bulb. The unit stabilized after about 5 minutes. The temp as dipped to 98 once or twice and hit 101 once.
If it works this good when I hook it to the pot I'll be a very happy camper.

[RaymondMillbrae]

To your heatsink.

Hey, Lurch,

I was sleeping and an epiphany came to me and woke me up. (Weird, huh? Out of nowhere).

Why would you wire a ground to your heatsink, knowing that your SSR is attached to it?

Just curious. (Did you make a "boo-boo"...or am I not understanding something)?

In Christ: Raymond

[lurch]

Raymond,

No boo-boo... The heatsink is a conductive object exposed to the user. It has a part on it that has energized wires connected to it. Now normally there is nothing to worry about but in the event that something were to happen that allowed the heatsink to become energized (faulty SSR internal insulation system, loose wire, etc.), grounding the heatsink will prevent it from becoming a shock hazard. Sure, there will be sparks & noise, but contained in the box.

[jimmeyjack]

Bump for raymonds tutorial[smilie=1::lol: