Straite walled brass annealling?

[BOOM BOOM]

HI,
I have heard that you can not anneal pistol cases like 44 mags. RATS WOULD LIKE TO!
Does this also apply to straight walled rifle cases like 444 marlin & 458 lott.

[cajun shooter]

You can anneal any piece of brass that is made to shoot in any gun!! Period. One of the tricks to shooting BP in 45 Colt is to anneal the cases so that the blow back is at a minimum

[Buckshot]

HI, I have heard that you can not anneal pistol cases like 44 mags. RATS WOULD LIKE TO! Does this also apply to straight walled rifle cases like 444 marlin & 458 lott.

..............As cajun shooter said you certainly can. The problem might have been with the person who told you no was that they felt the case might be too short for safe annealing. Then again they might have been repeating what THEY'D heard someone else opine. I really wouldn't want to be the one put in charge of the 25, 32 ACP, or 38 S&W annealing detail though:lol:

...............Buckshot

[Wayne Smith]

I would only do it one of two ways - either with a torch and the cases sitting in water or in a lead pot holding the first in a bare hand - counting until uncomfortable to hold - then gloving and doing the rest to that count.

What you need to avoid is softening the base of the case.

[HORNET]

The .444's and .458's are easy to anneal. The only tricky part about annealing pistol cases is getting the case mouths hot enough to anneal without getting the case heads that hot as well, especially on the short numbers that Buckshot mentions. You might scrap out a few cases trying to figure it out. I usually trim the Mag cases down into Specials when they start to crack and scrap them when they start splitting at that length.
There is a thread on an induction case neck annealing machine that might work well for pistol cases.
See: http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?t=79439

[44man]

Yes you can anneal cases like the .44 but then you are restricted to very light, no recoil loads. Without case tension, any recoil can pull boolits and tie up the cylinder.
It would be OK in a single shot but not in a lever gun or revolver.
Crimp will no longer hold anything either.
During my tension experiments I barely annealed .44 brass, loaded 5 and shot one. The other 4 pulled and I can tell you it is hard to remove a cylinder with 4 boolits sticking out.
How bad would that be with a huge hog or bear needing more shots? :bigsmyl2:
Move to a slow powder and ignition can stop leaving a boolit in the bore.
Annealed .444, etc in a lever gun can drive boolits INTO the cases, increasing pressures past the safe range of the gun.
Unless you have a single shot, I would leave well enough alone.

[BOOM BOOM]

HI
I figured that you probably could NOT anneal nickle brass, as it would effect the nickle plating. the different metals Ni & brass would have different expansion ratios.
I have annealed over a 1,000 06 brass as I formed my 7mm/06 BRASS, & all the 458 Lott brass as I formed it from 375 H&H.
I felt it must be OK as all the original 458 Lott brass was wildcatted brass.
So it seemed to me that after 10 or so shots I should be able to re-anneal it.
I do not believe I would even try to anneal 38's , too short, for my taste, & cheap abundant supply. Certainly none shorter.
44mag. 444marlin, & 458 Lott are not cheap in my book.
As my 444 brass is starting to split I wanted to do them for sure.

[lwknight]

If you are going to use the lead dipping method , ( my favorite ) try to use pure lead ( no tin) at about 750 degrees and leave the brass dirty so it won't get tinned.

[BOOM BOOM]

HI,
I have always done my annealing w/ a propane torch & at least 1/2 the brass submerged in water. So that is prob. what I'll do with the 444 brass, got to try & save it as it is why too expensive to just let split if I can save it.
Problem is I use it in a lever action.
Perhaps I can heat it less , & tip it as soon as it just starts to glow.

Thanks for the tip on using only dirty brass & pure lead on the dip method, as it may turn out to be my only way.
Does the brass also glow when using that method???

[lwknight]

Does the brass also glow when using that method???

NO! If you get the lead glowing you are in dangerous territory.
Lead at about 750 fegrees will anneal brass. The point of seeing a soft glow in low light is around 1200 or more degrees.

[44man]

NO! If you get the lead glowing you are in dangerous territory.
Lead at about 750 fegrees will anneal brass. The point of seeing a soft glow in low light is around 1200 or more degrees.
That is correct, don't get the brass too hot. For the .444 I would just dip the crimp portion in just deep enough, it is likely that is what is splitting.
Boom boom didn't say where the splits are occurring.
If the balance of the seating depth is left harder, tension will still be good.
Nickel plated brass can also be annealed.

[BOOM BOOM]

HI,
Nope I was not talking about getting the Lead to glow, that would take over a 1,000 *F.
Was asking if the BRASS would glow in the lead dip method as it does in the open flame method. If it does not then the temp. is lower & it might be the safer method for me to use.
Because the 444's are for use in a lever action, & a lighter anneal would be better.
The splits are only at the case mouth in the 444's.
The 44's & 357's sometimes split much lower.:Fire::Fire:

[44man]

HI,
Nope I was not talking about getting the Lead to glow, that would take over a 1,000 *F.
Was asking if the BRASS would glow in the lead dip method as it does in the open flame method. If it does not then the temp. is lower & it might be the safer method for me to use.
Because the 444's are for use in a lever action, & a lighter anneal would be better.
The splits are only at the case mouth in the 444's.
The 44's & 357's sometimes split much lower.:Fire::Fire:
No, the brass won't glow, all you want is a slight color change anyway.
I would leave the brass tarnished but wash off any boolit lube. I found boolit lube makes a great soldering flux! :mrgreen:

[BOOM BOOM]

HI,
THANKS 44 MAN.
By the way , do you also post on Graybeard outdoors as 44 Man?
That will probably the way I will go With the rifle brass.
That is awful close to melted Pb for my fingers with pistol brass,ow! :Fire::Fire:

[44man]

HI,
THANKS 44 MAN.
By the way , do you also post on Graybeard outdoors as 44 Man?
That will probably the way I will go With the rifle brass.
That is awful close to melted Pb for my fingers with pistol brass,ow! :Fire::Fire:
Yes I have been there but not for a long time.

[BOOM BOOM]

HI,
Well I just discovered the site this year.
Have been reading all the stuff on the handgun hunting forum as it applies the 357 &44 mag hunting, & bullet preformance on game. 80 pages, but well worth the read.
Also read all the forum Ask veral Smith, also found that informative.
Thought it might be you, & I always pay attention to what you write.:Fire::Fire: