Please grade my paper ... patch knowledge

[Canuck Bob]

I've been studying and have started to think PP is my best boolit direction when my 303B comes in. I have no idea yet to dimensions and twist rate but in looking at boolits broadly I've started thinking as follows. Please advise me of any fallacies in my assumptions.

1. PP is not as fussy regarding alloy and softer is ok when compared to lubed boolits.

2. With a PP 303B molds for standard 30 caliber rifles would be acceptable to buy improving my access to available options and cheap used molds.

3. Gas checks are not required.

4. Messy lubing is not required, this one mystifies me.

5. Some threads suggest casting 30 cal boolits is trickier than the large calibers.

6. Generally shooters seem to prefer boolits in the heavier ranges in these ex military cartridges in the 308, 30-40, 303B capacity range.

7. One thing I'm not sure of is the velocity range available to PPed boolits? I will be in the position to load a 303B in a very strong modern action that does not stretch the cases, can I use that ability with PP boolits.

It seems self evident that PPing is ideal for a single shot like my Ruger falling block action.

I realize that my post is full of many themes but as I'm early in the learning stage and have no particulars on the rifle I'm only hoping to have my assumptions challenged so I don't head down too many rabbit trails with no rabbits at the end. Your valued advice on specific tools, components, and techniques will be sought later.

[303Guy]

I'm hardly qualified to 'grade' you but ....

I agree that your #1 is ideal and is going to deliver max potential from the 303B cartridge.

I prefer heavy boolits (yesterday I shot turkey with 303B 208gr HN PPCB's - softer alloy might have been better!)

Gas checks not required, yep.

Lubing can cause the patch to stick to the boolit and disrupt its flight. Some surface lube seems to be good at times.

[lwknight]

I prefer softer alloy. PP is not all that fussy as long as you can get the round chambered.
Lube is not required because the lead does not contact the barrel. Lube is more like a spoiler than a lubricant. Like you cannot solder oily copper pipes. Lead does not adhere to the barrel so good when it is dirty from burned lube.

It will be fun and interesting at worst.

[Nobade]

In another post, 303 Guy mentioned powder burn rates, and I think there is something important there. Using Quickload, I can predict the maximum chamber pressure of a load (OK, at least get a number. I don't know how close it is, but that doesn't matter too much) and if I load up ammo, some with faster powder and some with slower, to the same pressure and velocity, the slower powder usually is more accurate. So a more gentle acceleration before peak pressure is achieved seems to be beneficial, though the pressure must be high enough to make the bullet bump up and properly seal the bore. Also, some cartridges are more sensitive to this than others. For example, my 45-70 will shoot pretty good with just about any powder. But it does a lot better with slower powder and heavy bullets. But the 6.5X55 is completely useless with 4895, and a tack driver at very high velocity with WXR or AA3100. Anybody else out there find this to be the case?

[pdawg_shooter]

I try to use a powder that will give me 100% load density. I get the best velocity accuracy that way.