Scope Mounting (aka. how do you mount your scope?)

[chickenstripe]

Does anyone use the Wheeler scope ring lapping tool? What about the wheeler FAT screwdriver.
If so, do you feel it is necessary?

In the past I've just mounted the bottom half of the rings, thrown the scope in, and installed the top half of the rings and torqued down to what I felt was appropriate. All the while checking the position of the x-hairs. As the glass gets more expensive, I think more and more about my mounting process.....

What process do you use to mount your scopes?

Inquiring minds want to know......

[Dale53]

Over the years, I have mounted dozens of scopes. Consistent torque is a GOOD thing. 6-48 screws are an abomination. They are entirely too small. If you don't have good "feel" you can easily twist them off. I was trained as a machinist, so "feel" is a part of the process. Many do NOT have "feel" and can't tell, with consistency, what is too tight, not tight enough, or just right. The FAT screwdriver is a torque wrench which will allow most anyone to properly torque the screws.

Regarding scope rings - Burris Signature rings have it all over conventional rings. The gimballed inserts are self aligning, the inserts actually have more area of holding power, and they are gentle on your scope. Many scope problems can be traced back to improperly tightened or ill fitting scope rings. In addition, with different pairs of offset rings available you can adjust the rings to keep the scope crosshairs in their "sweet spot" (adjusting cross hairs too far off the middle can impair their adjustments).

With the Burris Signature rings, you will not need to lap the rings.

One caveat, a day after you install the Burris rings, you need to go back and re-tighten them. They can creep just a bit after they are tightened the first time.

FWIW
Dale53

[S.R.Custom]

The need for a scope ring lapping tool is an indicator of poor mount fitment. As manufactured, the inside diameter of a scope ring is optimal for the diameter of the scope. The only thing lapping does is to enlarge the hole and make it so a crooked ring doesn't bite as deep.

The solution is to go back and properly fit the mounts.

[Crusty Deary Ol'Coot]

Well, would not consider myself even a beginning master gunsmith, but I have mounted scopes as needed for a goodly number of years.

I have seen the ads for the lapping devices but have never seen the need.

I am a RUGER fan, being so since the 60s, and as such have had a goodly number of those rifles and some handguns with RUGER mounts/rings.

Some seem to think the investment cast RUGER rings lack in alinement, but I personally have never found this to be a factor/issue.

I recently bought a very slightly used RUGER #1s in 45/70, which came with a mounted scope very un-suitable for use on such a rifle.

So, that ment removing the scope, moving it down the line as it wasn't worth keeping, and finding one better suited and of higher quality.

One thing was clear, the RUGER rings were very clearly NOT origional to this rifle. The rifle showed little wear, and ZERO blueing ware except for on the rings.

When I removed the rings/scope from the rifle, it was clear that someone back down the line had lapped the rings. They had also used a center punch to lightly mark the placement/pairing of the rings.

Was the lapping needed?

From past experience I'd say "NOT" but ??????????

I did order a new set of "TORKS" headed screws from Brownell's, replacing the old and damaged, slotted set.

Just IMHO.

Keep em coming!

Crusty Deary Ol'Coot

[405]

Correctly using a lapping rod will remove the slight mis-alignment seen on most jigged, drilled and tapped rifle scope mounting systems. Some rifles of course have milled/proprietary systems. Either way using the lapping rod will remove any mis-alignment. I don't use the Burris self aligning rings so no comment.

If that mis-alignment is part and parcel to the rifle the only way to correct it is by using something like the Burris system or lapping the rings. A little out of kilter usually won't cause much problem but at some point it will. It can dent and mar the scope tube, it can damage internals in the scope, it can place a torque on the scope tube that in the long run is no good.

I have no investment in a lapping rod. I got a carefully measured and trued up 1" steel rod from my neighbor. I welded a 3/8" rod in the middle. Simply apply lapping compound and rotate and move in all directions to true up the rings. Not rocket science just a little extra time. The last few years, instead of guessing whether or not to lap, I just lap and don't look back. Then again I still use the old Weaver ring system so many think me a Neanderthal. What ever. I looked at a very complete, correctly done scope mount strength test a few years ago comparing all the latest wiz bang mounting systems. Guess what. The strength of the old Weaver system was equal to or better than all. :shock:

[MT Gianni]

i use Weaver mounts for almost everything and have a piece of 1" brass rod I check alignment with. I try for a consistent feel when tightening and use blue locktite after i am sure all fits well.

[AZ-Stew]

Regarding scope rings - Burris Signature rings have it all over conventional rings. The gimbaled inserts are self aligning, the inserts actually have more area of holding power, and they are gentle on your scope. Many scope problems can be traced back to improperly tightened or ill fitting scope rings. In addition, with different pairs of offset rings available you can adjust the rings to keep the scope crosshairs in their "sweet spot" (adjusting cross hairs too far off the middle can impair their adjustments).

With the Burris Signature rings, you will not need to lap the rings.

One caveat, a day after you install the Burris rings, you need to go back and re-tighten them. They can creep just a bit after they are tightened the first time.

FWIW
Dale53

Right on!!

In addition, the Signature rings do not have to be tightened as much as all-metal rings. The polymer inserts conform to the scope tube to give maximum surface area contact. Since discovering them, I won't use anything else. There is also the option to use the offset insert kit to help align a scope with the bore on a rifle that has the mount holes drilled off-axis, or to set the scope for long-distance shooting without having to use all the adjustment internal to the scope.

I owned a Ruger M-77 .25-06 35 years ago on which I had to shim the factory Ruger mounts with small pieces of soda can aluminum sheet metal so I could get it to shoot on paper at 100 yards. That experience soured me on the Ruger mount system. I've never again bought one of their bolt actions.

Regards,

Stew