Found A New Spray Case Lub.

[smokemjoe]

Menards last week a One dollar rebate on Jig- a- loo spray lubricante, Not really needing it I got 2 cans, Just started to resize my 30-06 brass today, I seen it on the shelve. It says on the can invisible lub. doesnt stink , But I wouldnt want to spray it on with my wife in the basement, I took a box of brass that I had loaded up hot with jacketed bullets, The primers were over flatten, I sprayed it on and let sit for 10 mins. to see if it stayed on, couldnt see it on the case, But the brass resized very easie, wipes off nice. Feels clean, I layed the brass down with the case month away from me when I sprayed it on, Some- else try it, Lets see what you guys think of it, Smokemjoe

[3006guns]

Well, I'd never heard of it before your post, so I just did some internet snooping. Their website says it is silicone based, so at least we have an idea what the lube is. Their message board has one comment about some jig-a-loo overspray residue on a bathroom mirror that wouldn't come off, and the suggested remedy was to use some hand or dish soap with water and a paper towel to remove it.

So, have you tried removing this stuff with say, hot water and soap? My only concern is the silicone would tend to stay on there and prevent the brass from gripping the chamber and increasing bolt thrust. Not trying to downplay it at all, believe me! If there's a cheaper way to do anything in reloading I want to know about it.


Edit: It's supposed to be carried by true value stores, so I'll see if our local branch has some.

[smokemjoe]

I just checked the brass and there is something on them, I took wet rag with some water and wiped them off and dryed in seconds, okey now, will try them in my Garands next,Thanks for the help 30-06 Guns. Edit-- Dont some of the other greasie lubs. leave oil on the cases also.

[3006guns]

Yes, they do and I usually clean all my sized cases with whatever will disolve the lube i.e. lighter fluid for petroleum based or plain hot water for something like Lee lube which is water soluble anyway. In any case I want them all clean and dry. I've seen the results documented when oiled ammuntion is fired...puts a tremendous strain on the bolt as the brass isn't fully doing its job.

I called our Tru Value and they have it in stock for about 5 bucks a can. I think she said it was a 9 point something ounce can. If it works its got to be cheaper than some of the other spray lubes...so thanks for the tip off!

[smokemjoe]

30-06 Guns, Menards is about $1.98 and is a 10.9 oz., Lowes or home depote my also have it, I just done 40 more and put in the case tumbler to see if they clean without washing first, Joe

[sagacious]

The silicone in lubricant sprays is very tenacious and can de difficult to remove competely. That is what's behind the consumer comment on the company's website where the person couldn't remove the silicone from the mirror. Trying to wipe it off may not remove silicone, it really persists-- you'll likely need soap and water to wash your brass.

Be careful, you may think the silicone is gone, but enough may remain to present a problem on cartridge brass.

[Lead Fred]

I tired a dry lube tonight.
NAPA Lube-a-spray dry graphite 4-251

It was in a box of reloading stuff I got form an old timer who said thats all he used for years.

Work real nice, just was a messing clean up

[3006guns]

Fred, when you say messy do you mean the typical "graphite black"? I've used powdered graphite at times for lubing case necks in my Lyman 310 tool.........why? Tradition!!! I also spent a miserable (but traditional) amount of time trying to get my hands clean. Worked good though.

[Lead Fred]

It got on the table, the press, and I had to wash down everything I touched after wards.

Then I thought about it, and I do the same with wet lube. Its just the black powder was more noticeable than the clear lube

[3006guns]

smokemjoe, if you managed to remove the lube with some water, that's good. When I have a big batch of resized cases, I'll just toss 'em in an old collander then into the dishwasher.........when the wife's not home. They come out squeaky clean and dry quickly. I go to this trouble NOT because I'm some sort of fanatic, but to ensure clean brass, primer pockets, etc. Makes the reloading process easier on my press, dies, etc. and gives me a uniform product. Since I do a couple hundred rifle cases at a sitting I like to find ways to batch process when possible.

Maybe just pride..........

Thanks for the tip, although there's no Menard's around me in Kalifornia, there IS a Home Depot. I'll grab a can and play with it to see how it performs. If I come up with a workable process I'll report back. Again, thanks!

[smokemjoe]

I have put the brass in a collander and sprayed wall mart. tech carbutor cleaner on them,It drys clean also. The brass so far is clean but seems slick, was only polished about 1 hr. so far. Joe What men dont do when the wife is gone, I send mine on a all day bus ride to do some things,

[3006guns]

I'm luckier..........I'm retired due to a back injury and my wife still works, so hee hee hee.

Hey, I had a thought. It's well known that silicone car waxes cause major headaches if the vehicle is repainted. It causes "fisheyes" in the finish, so the body must be washed with various specialized removers to eliminate it. So here's what I though I'd try as an experiment:

Spray the lube on, resize two cases with decapper removed (in case something gets stuck....I'm cautious).

Leave one case as is and toss the other into a pot of boiling water with a little dish soap added. Remove after a short time and rinse under hot water then allow to dry.

PAINT both cases with some enamel spray paint, the cheaper the better.

The silicone should cause a "fisheye" effect on the unboiled case and be evident in the paint. If the boiled case is truely clean it will be, well, painted.

There's a reason for my being so curious. I usually process batches of 50-100 rifle cases at once, so the boiling, rinsing, drying routine would be fairly easy. If I were doing only a few cases I'd probably just use Imperial or some other regular sizing lube. If this new product is cheaper than the "specialized" spray lubes, it's worth using.

[Bill*]

Menards last week a One dollar rebate on Jig- a- loo spray lubricante, Not really needing it I got 2 cans, Just started to resize my 30-06 brass today, I seen it on the shelve. It says on the can invisible lub. doesnt stink , But I wouldnt want to spray it on with my wife in the basement, I took a box of brass that I had loaded up hot with jacketed bullets, The primers were over flatten, I sprayed it on and let sit for 10 mins. to see if it stayed on, couldnt see it on the case, But the brass resized very easie, wipes off nice. Feels clean, I layed the brass down with the case month away from me when I sprayed it on, Some- else try it, Lets see what you guys think of it, Smokemjoe

Why do you keep her down there anyway? :shock:

[smokemjoe]

I tumbled the brass for 4 hrs. Nice and clean, Wife comes down to see if I am still alive. I prep. my case in the winter or early spring and load them as I go for the summer shooting . most of the time its about 600 rds. The door knobs on the doors down here are nice and slick from my hands, Let us know how you come out, Joe

[3006guns]

First, be aware that Jig a Loo makes two different spray lubricants, one with graphite and one with silicone. My test was with the silicone variety as reported by smokemjoe.

I couldn't find the ingredients listed on the can, but the salesperson I spoke to said the graphite version is something like "super jig a loo" and will say that on the label. He also said it sprays a dark grey/black liquid that is a great lubricant but hard to get off your hands. I wouldn't be suprised!

I selected two 30-06 cases, one WWII and one commercial, both once fired and normal in appearance. The WWII case did have some staining. These cases had already been tumbled but not deprimed/resized.

I laid both on a piece of newspaper and gave them a shot of the lube, then rolled them over and shot the other side. This is probably not necessary in the real world but it would ensure coverage. The odor is nowhere near as unpleasant as some of the spray resizing lubes. I then screwed my FL resizer into my RCBS RS2 press and selected a third case, which I resized with Imperial sizing wax. It took modest effort, but I think that's because this press might be close to its limit unlike, say, a Rockchucker. I made note of the effort and resized the treated cases, with the effort being about the same.

Okay, it does work as a sizing lube. Now what about removing the silicone? I filled a small pot with water and a squirt of Ajax dish soap, brought it to a boil and tossed one of the cases in for about five minutes. I then rinsed the case under hot water and dried it. I took both outside and shot them with enamel paint. BOTH cases show evidence of remaining silicone (fisheyes). Tough stuff to get off! The spray sizing lubes I've used before do not mention having to remove it after sizing, so if they are silicone based it may not be necessary.

I think the Jig a Loo has some value here as pointed out by smokemjoe. I'm not sure what's in the sprays sold for resizing, but I know it's pretty expensive for that itty bitty can. The Jig a Loo is the size of a large spray paint can...10.9 oz. So, basically if the commercial spray sizing lube is the same thing (silicone) and there's been no problems with it, you're getting a lot more for your money. The cost to me locally was $6.48 with state tax, but I live in a very rural part of California so costs are more than the "big box" stores. Frankly, I was pleasantly suprised and somewhat greatful they had it at all!

My only concern with this stuff was whether it would prevent the case from gripping the chamber walls, which is why I tried to remove it and may be totally unecessary. Does anyone know for sure what the spray sizing lubes are made of?

Edit: Just had a thought. It was common practice to use hard waxed cases in some recoil operated arms by some nations around the world, so maybe I'm worried about nothing. If that's the case, I think smokemjoe just did us a favor in finding this stuff!

[John Boy]

I couldn't find the ingredients listed on the can

http://www.jigaloo.com/us/pdf/10251-01-1110251-01-011_jig1601_jig-a-loo_311g_en.pdf

I'll stick with lanolin and isopropyl alcohol, thank you

[3006guns]

Ouch....I didn't think of the MSDS sheet. Carcinagen???? Phosgene gas over 250*??? What a shame. It had such promise. Did a nice job of lubing my sliding patio door though.

Forgot to mention that I sprayed it outdoors too.

[John Boy]

Did a nice job of lubing my sliding patio door though.
Putting silicone or any type of viscous lube on sliding patio doors is a bad move. Dirt will mix with these types of lube and the rollers will stick like glue. The best 'lube' is no lube - a clean track!

My wife sprayed silicone spray on a couple of ours. They stuck so badly, I had to remove the panels and completely clean the tracks and rollers

[82nd airborne]

i really like rcbs case slick

[smokemjoe]

I was sure I had a good thing going, But today I sprayed 40 cases down in a plastic box, I left for 5 hrs to see what would happen, well it was like the brass was hot and started to melt down into the box. Looks better to forget this idea, Thank-yous for the help on this, Back to the imperial lub. Joe

[smokemjoe]

Lets forget using this stuff. I dont see how they can sell it as of the harzards,

[Herb in Pa]

I just use the generic stuff you spray into frying pans. Wipes off with a damp rag......definitely no silicone or graphite in it.

[3006guns]

Herb, can you expand on that a bit? I would assume you use that on "normal" resizing jobs and maybe something with more film strength for tougher things such as reforming a case?

You have to understand my reasoning here.........I like the convenience of a spray lube but balk at the cost. One method involves a mixture of lanolin and 99% alcohol which sounds great, but not available within 100 miles of here!

[mroliver77]

You can order lanolin online at "thesage.com"
Jay

[David2011]

The Dillon pump spray lube made with lanolin and alcohol is not expensive when you consider how far it goes. It can be ordered. I bought 3 bottles to resize 3000 .40 S&W cases, pushing them all the way through a Dillon carbide die with the decapping assembly removed. This was before there were dies intended to do this. I ended up using about 1/3 of one bottle. I've sized over 500 .30-'06 cases, 1850 .223 cases and 150 or so other rifle cases from the same bottle and still have probably 1/3 of the first bottle left. This was all done with large lots of brass so it was pretty efficient. It's important to wait a few minutes after spraying to let the lanolin migrate and the alcohol evaporate. When I try to rush it I get to use my stuck case remover. The cases stay lubed for at least hours after spraying. I haven't tested it but they may still be adequately lubed for days. Lanolin cleans off easily by rolling the cases on a damp towel.

David

[mtnman31]

I also prefer the Dillon lube. I received two bottles in a trade and when they are used up (many years from now) I plan to make my own. The stuff goes a LONG way. The only precaution you need is to shake it up every time you use it, even if it has just been sittting a few minutes. The lube tends to separate from the alcohol fairly quick. I still have some paste lube that I use for case forming and odds and ends pieces. I use the paste because it is easier for small quantities and not becasue of any short comings of the spray lube. Both clean off very easily with a cloth or can be tossed into the tumbler. Just my two cents.

[smokemjoe]

Herb: Are you using the stuff called Pam for the frying pans.

[Herb in Pa]

Herb, can you expand on that a bit? I would assume you use that on "normal" resizing jobs and maybe something with more film strength for tougher things such as reforming a case?

You have to understand my reasoning here.........I like the convenience of a spray lube but balk at the cost. One method involves a mixture of lanolin and 99% alcohol which sounds great, but not available within 100 miles of here!

I haven't tried it for case reforming (I would use Imperial Sizing die wax for that), but it works great for any high volume reloading uses........223 Rem for AR15, 30-06, 308 etc.

[Herb in Pa]

Herb: Are you using the stuff called Pam for the frying pans.

Actually I'm using a generic equivalent that's a bit cheaper.

[3006guns]

I think I might try that as high volume is what I'm after, but in rifle cases. Even if I go with the Dillon (or home made version) the frying pan spray is available everywhere and the generic stuff is pretty cheap. Since it's basically a vegetable compound, hot water would remove it easily.

The other idea (from this forum) was to mix the Lee lube with water in a .50 caliber ammo can, swirl, spead and dry then start sizing. The poster said that he used this method for quite a while when shooting a lot of high power matches. It sounds good but in my little town the local sporting goods store has to order everything, even Lee lube, usually a week's wait!

[Maven]

Joe, A better and cheaper solution than the Lee lube diluted with water is wire pulling lube. You can get it from "big box" stores like Home Depot or Lowes for ~$10/quart* and it works quite well for all but the most demanding resizing tasks.


*You use it undiluted.

[3006guns]

Maven......just a warning from another website: many of the wire pulling lubes are water based and as such, contain water. Rusted dies have been reported. I can't verify this but just reporting what I read elsewhere.


Herb in Pa.......I told my wife about the vegetable spray and she promptly handed me a can of "Great Value" generic stuff and told me to take it. I sprayed about 30 7.62 x 54 Russian cases and ran them through the die with little or no effort. Slicker than owl snot. The spray washes off with hot water and soap, leaving a nice clean resized case. I ran a cotton swab around the inside of the die and easily removed the residue.


This has promise. Unlike cable pulling lube, mixed lanolin and alcohol, etc. this is readily available at any grocery store in my little town. Thanks Herb.

Edit: I noticed something I haven't seen for years....lube dents! This is entirely my fault though. I was in too much of a rush and should have kept the spray light then allowed a few minutes for it to flow down toward the base to thin the coat. Other than that it works well!

[Maven]

3006guns, You're correct about the water content of wire pulling lubes. That's why I clean out my dies and then spray them with WD-40 following their use.

[bkbville]

I get the heebee geebees thinking of using PAM; when I fry up eggs or pancakes that stuff is inevitably on the bottom of the pan and requires some effort to remove.

I like the idea of a lube that can be removed by cloth, not necessitating either tumbling or washing.

Finding a homemade lube solution seems like a part-time hobby for a lot of folks.

[wistlepig1]

3006,
I am wonder what problems you have had with mixed lanolin and alcohol? I have used it for years with no problems and would like to know what may be comming from it's use. Thanks in advance for the info.

[smokemjoe]

Back to the gig a loo stuff. I got it on the door knobs down here, some on the linomam, and some on 60 cases, I cant get it off the brass, the floor and door handles are like greased snot and nothing removes it, It must be good for something, maybe in a crankcase, kill wasps, or whats you do with it,I just sprayed down my bowling ball with it and my shoes,
Thanks Herb: My wife caught me in the kitchen with Pam, She had high reguards for Pam,
Hi Marven,

[3006guns]

No problem at all, in fact it's on my list of things to do in the future. My problem is one of location mostly. Our community is 3500 people (more or less) and located in a very remote part of California. We have one sporting goods store whose entire supply of reloading supplies consists of a few high priced one lb. cans of powder, a few RCBS dies in basic calibers and a few knicknacks. Don't misunderstand, I'm greatful that he's there and he's willing to order anything...BUT....delivery can be five days to two weeks. The closest Costco or Walmart or any large shopping area is a minumum of 90 miles away. For California, it's a good place to be.

Having used a case lube pad, Lee lube, and the Hornady spray I decided to see if a good home made lube could be mixed up in a spray configuration. I like the idea of being able to lube large numbers of cases in one shot. There's lots of open area up here for shooting, so having large quantities of ammo is a plus.

So I'm experimenting with various substitutes. In all probability I'll order some lanolin and alcohol through the local drug store and mix my own concoction, then add to my supply on a regular basis.

smokemjoe: I know what you mean. It actually IS a good lube, but you'd need some of the stuff body shops use to remove it before they paint a car. It's some form of degreaser I think, but all in all the veggie spray seems to work pretty well until I can get my hands on some lanolin and 99% alcohol.

[wistlepig1]

3006, here is the place that I buy from that may be of help to you.

http://www.vitaglo.com/7730.html

[Elkins45]

Back before anybody sold a commercial spray case lube I decided to try cutting the Lee wax lube with water and using it in a pump spray bottle. My purpose for doing this was to use a progressive press to do .223 without having to pad lube every case. I'm pleased to say it worked like gangbusters. I dumped a bunch of cases in plastic box, spritzed them down good, agitated, spritzed them again, then spread them out on waxed paper to dry. Once dry I ran them straight into the sizer and never had a problem.

Later, after the commercial sprays were on the market at their inflated prices I discovered that most were lecithin dissolved in a solvent...just like the pump non-stick cooking sprays.

The pressurized can (not pump) sprays are various oils, usually canola. I don't know if the pump sprays are even available anymore, but for a while I used the pump spray as my only sizing lube.

[buck1]

I tired a dry lube tonight.
NAPA Lube-a-spray dry graphite 4-251

It was in a box of reloading stuff I got form an old timer who said thats all he used for years.

Work real nice, just was a messing clean up

Lots of people used graphite for sizing ,UNTILL they found it prevented the cases from grabbing the chambers and caused head space issues from the action streching. Just a heads up...Buck