Lyman #2 alloy

[Harry]

I have not been able to find this in my searches. Is it practical to attempt to make ones own alloy #2? Where would you aquire pure antimony? Also, I read where the melting point of antimony is over 1100 deg. Has anyone here made the alloy using pure lead,5% antimony, and 5% tin? If not, what do you mix with dental x-ray lead to make proper alloy?

[wallenba]

Product # 570058 on this page is equivalent to #2 alloy. http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/?productNumber=570058 as well as here, at Missouri bullet co. http://www.missouribullet.com/results.php

[BCB]

Harry,

I make my own, or at least an alloy that is "close" to #2.

Lyman Cast Bullet Handbook has 2 recipes, but the easiest is...

9 pounds of wheelweights and 1 pound of 50/50 bar solder...

I use Tin solder which is 95% tin and 5% antimony and do the math...

I get it close but probably it isn't chemically pure #2...

I mix a 10-pound batch and I mostly shoot straight wheelweights or a mix of 2-1 (ww-#2)...

Mixing your own would probably be cheaper than buying it already made. Unless you are absolutely into using #2 in it's purest form...

Good-luck...BCB

[junpogie]

Try this one... http://www.rotometals.com/Antimony-s/1.htm

[HeavyMetal]

The instructions that used to come with the Lyman molds and pots would give two or three "formula's" for making #2 using lead, 50-50 solder and WW metal.

If you have an old Lyman mold box you might look in it and see if the instructions are there.

[randyrat]

Bottom of this page has a bunch of recipes. There's enough to read for a long while.
http://www.lasc.us/CastBulletNotes.htm

[KYCaster]

Harry, don't get too hung up on the exact composition of your alloy. Of all the recipes I've seen for mixing Lyman #2, very few of them come anywhere close to 5% tin and 5% antimony.

My ancient Lyman book shows two different approaches:

5 1/2 lbs. wheelweights
1 lb. 50/50 solder
3 1/2 lbs. lead

and:
4 lbs. Line-O-Type
1 lb. 50/50 solder
5 lbs. lead

"Do the math" like someone suggested and you'll find that the linotype formula yields 7.4% tin and 4.8% antimony. At least that's somewhere in the ball park. The WW formula doesn't come anywhere close with 5.2% tin and 1.3% antimony. For that one to work the WW would have to have NO tin and 9% antimony.

The most common recipe I've seen recently is really simple...9 lbs. of WW and 1 lb. of 50/50 solder. That gets the desired 5% tin right on the nose, but only 2.7% antimony. Substitute lead free 95/5 for the 50/50 solder and you end up with a full 10% tin and 3.2% antimony.

Any of those alloys should cast great with their high tin contents, but most sources say that the percentage of tin shouldn't exceed the percentage of antimony. It really isn't detrimental to the alloy but neither does it have any benefit, it just adds unnecessary cost.

Another thing to consider is the fact that most of the "soft" lead we scrounge in the form of stick on WW, flashing, X-ray shielding, pipe and many other sources have a significant amount of antimony...up to 5% in some cases. So when you take the standard advice and "treat it like pure" you may be adding the antimony you thought you left out.

My point is...all these carefully concocted alloys work very well for lots of people, even though they're not often anywhere close to the desired composition.

So don't get too hung up on the exact composition of your alloy...if it works for you, shoot it. Just try to remember how you mixed it so you can duplicate it later.

Adding pure antimony isn't a problem and can be done at normal lead casting temps. There are several threads dealing with that subject. A search should turn up the info you want.

Jerry

[GLL]

I use Rotometals 30%Sb/70%Pb alloy for my antimony source along with pure tin and lead !

Easy math and constant chemistry ! :)

Even easier if you just buy their Lyman #2 alloy !

http://www.rotometals.com/Bullet-Casting-Alloys-s/5.htm

Super fast delivery and very nice people to deal with !

Jerry

[Blacksmith]

There is a current group buy in progress for Lyman #2. Here is the thread:
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?t=75795

[fredj338]

I will only add that trying to blend oure antimony w/ your alloy is going to eb diff as the melting temp is so high. Better to use an alloy w/ antimony in it, like lead shot or ww, then add tin to that.

[kawalekm]

I have used nothing but homemade #2 alloy for the last 15 years or so. I separate out all the stick-on wheelweights and save those especially for swaging.

I melt down 19 lbs worth of clip-on weights and then add 1lb of lead-free plumbing solder, or 1.25lbs of scrap pewter. Either will bring the total tin concentration to ~5%. Assuming that clip-on weights are ~5% antimony, the 20lbs of resulting alloy comes close to 90/5/5% lead/tin/antimony. Works good enough for me.
Michael

[mpmarty]

I blend clip on ww with monotype. I've built a spreadsheet to calculate my ratios. I'll be happy to share the spreadsheet if someone wants it.

[Rotometals]

There is a better group buy going on here
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?t=77326&highlight=rotometals




There is a current group buy in progress for Lyman #2. Here is the thread:
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?t=75795

[Qwikshot]

I have not been able to find this in my searches. Is it practical to attempt to make ones own alloy #2? Where would you aquire pure antimony? Also, I read where the melting point of antimony is over 1100 deg. Has anyone here made the alloy using pure lead,5% antimony, and 5% tin? If not, what do you mix with dental x-ray lead to make proper alloy?

Making Lyman # 2 is easy. 90% lead, 5% Antimony and 5% tin.
Start by melting the Antimony than add the lead a little at a time and than finally add the tin.

If you try adding the Antimony to the lead you're done, and you can throw it away.
Don't forget ANTIMONY FIRST.

[Qwikshot]

Making Lyman # 2 is easy. 90% lead, 5% Antimony and 5% tin.
Start by melting the Antimony than add the lead a little at a time and than finally add the tin.

If you try adding the Antimony to the lead you're done, and you can throw it away.
Don't forget ANTIMONY FIRST.

[Ural Driver]

Rotometals for me. And free shipping if your order is over a certain $$ amount.

[dondiego]

I bet it was cheaper 6 years ago!

[quilbilly]

You can make a rough equivalent yourself and alloy to your liking by mixing pure lead from scrap roofing lead (or radiation lead) with hard chilled birdshot that has the antimony and arsenic (I find melted birdshot to make boolits that are much too hard) and then add a tiny bit if tin. I find the birdshot a garage sales and the roofing lead at scrap yards. My recipe is one tablespoon of birdshot per pound of lead then water drop. It works well in my rifles as well as pistols. I have been paying 60 cents per pound for relatively clean roofing lead but paid a premium 80 cents per pound recently for a large (4'x6') sheet of radiation shielding but it was well worth the extra since it was clean enough as is. My tin comes from lead-free fishing sinkers bought at Wal Mart.

[davidheart]

I bet it was cheaper 6 years ago!

You sir, win the internet. [smilie=p:

[HangFireW8]

I'll answer the 1100F question. Once alloyed, the combined melting temp of lead and Antimony is lower then either alone. Not exactly intuitive, but that's the way it works.

As you have just discovered, there's no need to find or buy pure Antimony.

[KYCaster]

I bet it was cheaper 6 years ago!



Yeah, but the misinformation hasn't changed a bit! [smilie=b:

Jerry

[Ural Driver]

Thanks for reminding me. :idea: I just ordered another 50# from Rotometals. :cbpour:

[44man]

I will only add that trying to blend oure antimony w/ your alloy is going to eb diff as the melting temp is so high. Better to use an alloy w/ antimony in it, like lead shot or ww, then add tin to that.
Antimony melts in at 600° with a proper flux.
I never fooled with no. 2, too much tin and cost with little benefit.