PDA

View Full Version : New caster.. my experience after first session



nickf829
03-07-2010, 09:13 PM
My experience after my first session turned into a bit of a novel, so grab a beverage and learn from my experience if you are new as well, or just give me some feedback on what I'm doing wrong

What I used:
1/2 bucket of wheel weights (fixed a gun for shop owner, got them free)
1 turkey fryer (free, uncle)
1 dutch oven - 6qt ($10 flea market)
1 stainless steel ladle ($6 walmart)
1 stainless steel slotted spoon ($6 walmart)
1 heavy duty 12 hole muffin pan ($8 walmart)
2 old rags soaked in water and WRUNG out (free)
1 jar of Franklin Arsenal fluxing powder($10, optional)
1 stool to sit on (free)
1 pair thick welding gloves (had these)

In case you aren’t sure how it works… here’s a VERY quick how-to… get weights, sort pb from fe/zn, put in pot, heat, skim clips, add more weights, skim clips again, repeat until satisfied, flux, scrape bottom/sides and skim crud off top, flux, skim again, repeat until clean, pour ingots, put mold on damp cloth, knock hardened ingots out of mold, repeat until empty

1. Clean your lead a few day before (w/ pressure washer) if you don't want a smelly cloud of smoke wafting into your neighbors open windows... I didn't clean them and you could see the stench cloud floating towards the neighbors.. I don't particularly care for them so I actually enjoyed this part

2. Sort your lead before you start, pull out any steel or zinc weights (not necessary, if you are careful you can just skim them out when the lead melts).. I didn't pre-sort, so I started heating the pot and went thru each weight one by one… that took to long. Next time I will put in enough weights to cover the bottom, wait for it to melt then skim, and repeat with just enough to form a layer 1 wheel weight thick… this way you can catch any zinc weights before they melt into the soup

3. Be sure your stool is comfortable… mine wasn't and I realize there is a lot of ass-down time

4. Flux flux flux and flux some more… if you don’t you may as well just go flux yourself. I only fluxed once on the first few “muffins” I made and I was very disappointed with all the crud that was still in them. After that I fluxed repeatedly until all the black crud was gone, then I did it again. The next round of muffins turned out much better, almost bullet quality

5. Make sure your rags are damp but not dripping wet. I set the muffin pans on top and poured the lead into the pan, however I overfilled one of the muffins and liquid lead hit the overly wet towel and the lead hissed and popped... no injuries and no problems, but I know better next time.

6. Welding gloves are heat resistant, not heat proof. Don’t handle your muffins as soon as they come out of the pan, gloves or not. Didn’t you hear if you handle your muffins to much you’ll go blind… well that may not be true but you will harm your hands and possibly your muffins.

Keep your molds and your melting pot as close as possible, as you will most likely spill or drip your lead. Keep something underneath your setup if you care about your driveway, sidewalk, or patio.. mine is gravel so it wasn’t an issue, but I did make a bit of a mess

I think that’s all the advice I can give after my first casting session. Overall, I think it turned out great. I turned about 80lbs of lead into 50-60lbs of ingots in 4 hours, this included trial and error and a lot of learning, next time I think it could be done a lot quicker

I got a bit impatient and decided to cast a few bullets in my new lee molds just to see how they worked, knowing very well that I probably needed to add tin to the lead to help fill it out, and only heating the mold on the dutch oven briefly.. I didn’t expect much, but I was surprised how well a few of them turned out. I can’t wait to get the casting pot out, mix in some tin and really see some good bullets take shape. These won’t be used obviously, but I may keep one of them for nostalgia. “my first bullet” or something dumb like that.

Here are a few pics from my misadventures

The crime scene
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v605/Nickf829/setup.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v605/Nickf829/mess1.jpg

The goods
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v605/Nickf829/decent6a.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v605/Nickf829/decent6.jpg

The bads
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v605/Nickf829/bad4.jpg

I do have a question for the veterans… on the “good” bullets that I cast today, there are what look like a lot of pores on the surface, once I start mixing tin, will those pores disappear? If not, what causes them and will they cause any issues?

I did not start out today with the intention to cast any bullets, it just kinda happened, so I wasn’t expecting quality results but honestly I’m surprised they turned out as good as they did. I can’t wait for next weekend when I start casting.

Mk42gunner
03-07-2010, 09:29 PM
Nick,

I'm no expert, but it looks to me as if your alloy or mold wasn't quite hot enough. Are you planning to cast from the dutch oven, or do you have another casting pot?

As to fluxing, when melting wheelweights down for ingots I stir the melt with a stick, then when casting I will flux with some leftover bullet lube, (what leaks from the lubamatic).

Don't be in a hurry to add tin, my wheelweights cast just fine without any extra tin. I would say you have made a good start.

Robert

nickf829
03-07-2010, 09:32 PM
Yeah I figured the mold was to cold. I literally sat it on top of the dutch oven for a minute or two then poured some lead in.. I wasn't planning to cast any bullets, I just wanted to give it a shot

As for what I'll use for casting next weekend, I've got a lee 4-20 bottom pour so I'll be able to heat the mold up on top of the pot while the lead melts.

JIMinPHX
03-07-2010, 09:49 PM
The muffins look good. The boolits probably need a little more heat, maybe another 50 degrees or so. Another 1% tin wouldn't hurt, but may not be necessary. If it was a 2 cavity Lee mold, I'd recommend looking at the venting, but the 6-hole Lee molds usually vent pretty well right out of the box.

...Nice job for the first time out of the gate.

Dale53
03-07-2010, 09:50 PM
First of all, congratulations on a "First Run". You did GOOD!

Now, the criticisms... Do NOT, and I repeat do NOT smelt next to your automobiles. If an accident does occur there is NO need to destroy the paint on your pick up. Molten lead will fly FAR propelled by a steam explosion and it CAN (probably WILL) scorch the paint on any vehicle it gets "flung on".

Watch the temperature of the melt when you smelt wheelweights. Keep the temperature below 650 degrees and you won't be melting zinc weights into your precious bullet metal. Zinc doesn't melt until 787 degrees but I find that 650 works fine for melting wheel weights and gives me a 100+ degrees buffer from destroying my melt.

Pre-heat your mould as you intend to do, and after your electric lead pot is full of molten alloy, flux it again before you start casting. When I melt wheelweights or scrap lead, I only flux once but I do it rather generously and stir a LOT after the big stuff (steel clips and zinc weights, etc) is already skimmed off. I do not try to do any carefull skimming until I flux, then I carefully remove the small stuff (powdered dirt, etc). Fluxing before you skim makes certain that you don't unnecessarily remove alloy elements.

Good show!

Dale53

nickf829
03-07-2010, 10:13 PM
Yeah I pulled the "good" vehicles away from the melt. The red truck is my trash truck. I paid $500 for it almost 3 years ago. It burns more oil than gas, barely gets down the road but it gets the trash to the dump and the gravel from the quarry to my house.. I wasn't to worried about damaging paint on that, honestly a little lead would only improve its appearance.

as for the mold. It definately sounds like it was to cold. before I go messing with adding tin, I will try heating it up on my pot and seeing what I cant get done that way

thanks for all the comments

mooman76
03-07-2010, 10:26 PM
Not a bad job. Pour a little more on top the sprue to make a good size puddle and the bases will fill out better too! They will turn out better after the mould warms up more.

454PB
03-07-2010, 10:29 PM
The "pockmarks" in your boolits look to me like they were caused by a contaminated mould.

Did you thoroughly degrease it beforehand?

ghh3rd
03-07-2010, 10:33 PM
I got a bit impatient and decided to cast a few bullets in my new lee molds just to see how they worked, knowing very well that I probably needed to add tin to the lead to help fill it out Been there :-)

docone31
03-07-2010, 10:36 PM
Still got some cutting oil in the mold. I soak mine in Mineral spirits for a couple of days. Mostly I am too lazy to get them out, so I let them sit. I rest the mold in the melt for a couple, and then pour. I count to six. That is the time I take to have the sprue freeze.
Good looking ingots, now, lets get those castings to come out.

462
03-07-2010, 10:45 PM
nickf829,
Well, you've done it now, and there ain't no turning back.

Give the mould a thorough cleaning and the boolit pores will disappear. The poor fillout is due to the mould not being hot enough.

Hold off on the tin. Once the mould is cleand and hot and you've cast up a batch or two, then you can determine it it's needed.

44fanatic
03-07-2010, 11:09 PM
Noticed you didnt have eye protection on the list...might be cause you wear glasses and always have the eye pro on...LOL

Had a military doc in Afghansitan tell us two things he could not fix...eyes and hands. Always were the eye pro and where the gloves.

nickf829
03-07-2010, 11:29 PM
That is a good tip. I forgot the glasses today, I should know better... right out of high school I worked in a garage and wound up with hot oil from a volvo in my eye, im lucky to have my vision.. I thought I learned my lesson then. Guess not. Eye protection definately on the list for the next time.

Also, being the impatient person I am, I literally took the molds directly out of the box, sprayed some drop out and poured. I need to clean and prep the molds before next weekend.

44fanatic
03-08-2010, 12:11 AM
Did my first cast about 10 days ago...going through tackle boxes for weights and anything else I had that was lead just so I could try out my molds.

stubshaft
03-08-2010, 12:37 AM
Did my first cast about 10 days ago...going through tackle boxes for weights and anything else I had that was lead just so I could try out my molds.


Oh oh... Looks like another candidate for Boolit Casters Anonymous. Pretty soon you'll be buying more molds. Then you'll be buying guns to shoot bollits you DON'T have molds for yet.

I have been traveling that dark road for over 35 years...

There is no known cure :bootgive:

JDFuchs
03-08-2010, 12:55 AM
for casting boolits i normaly just use a pair of leather work gloves. When smelting or planing on things getting hot i put my welding gloves on top of the work gloves and things are much more comfortable. Ive only had one big lead spill. I was remelting an oversized ingot in my casting pot by letting a corner of it melt down at a time, cast some 2lb ingots and melt another corner. With both pairs of gloves on I was ajusting the large ingot It got to hot and I let it go, it overflowed the pot for quite a mess. With all my skin coverd by clothing I was fine, just had to clean up.

nickf829
03-08-2010, 09:02 PM
Wheres the best place to order a thermometer? I know a lot of people don't want one, but I'm a numbers nerd and like seeing what I'm doing rather than guessing

Greenhorn44
03-10-2010, 04:03 PM
Wheres the best place to order a thermometer? I know a lot of people don't want one, but I'm a numbers nerd and like seeing what I'm doing rather than guessing


Lyman Lead Bullet Casting Thermometer
Product #: 595204
Status: Available at www.midwayusa.com
Average Customer Rating: 2.8 starsOur Price: $32.99

I have heard good things about this mighty fine specimen:castmine:

HORNET
03-10-2010, 05:40 PM
Rotometals is a sponsor here (see link at the top of the page) and offers a thermometer that costs just a bit more ($36.99 ?) and offers members a small discount. Also a good place if you want to buy any booster alloy, tin, etc.
Bill Ferguson( theantimonyman.com , IIRC) carries one that has been recommended.
RCBS offers one that some like better than the Lyman, YMMV.
Some members also use a digital thermometer that Harbor Freight carries. I believe it's cheaper but I haven't tried one.
Lots of sources out there.

Dale53
03-10-2010, 05:43 PM
I became unhappy with my Lyman (did not accurately reflect the temperature). I took it out of service, ordered mine from Bill Ferguson and have been MOST happy!!

Dale53

jnovotny
03-10-2010, 07:35 PM
Yeah I pulled the "good" vehicles away from the melt. The red truck is my trash truck. I paid $500 for it almost 3 years ago. It burns more oil than gas, barely gets down the road but it gets the trash to the dump and the gravel from the quarry to my house.. I wasn't to worried about damaging paint on that, honestly a little lead would only improve its appearance.

as for the mold. It definately sounds like it was to cold. before I go messing with adding tin, I will try heating it up on my pot and seeing what I cant get done that way

thanks for all the comments

That's the great thing about chevys, if you keep oil and water in 'em they'll run forever.

Daves1
03-10-2010, 09:06 PM
I flux moderately after the clips separate. It seems to release the clips cleaner.