Lino-pure lead mix ?

[Jack Stanley]

Just curious here , I've seen lead mixes using half and half , one lino and two lead for different mixes . For the purposes of casting twenty-two bullets what mix will give excellent fillout without filling the vent lines of a mold ?

Thanks , Jack

[Echo]

I would go with the 50/50 mix. That provides Magnum metal, or hardball alloy, or whatever - 2% Sn, 6% Sb, remainder lead, and 2% Sn should be sufficient for fillout. The other alloy would only give 1.3% Sn, and that might not be enough for the liddle 22 pills.
If the 50/50 doesn't give good fillout, adding a touch of lead-free solder would probably make it behave.

[MtGun44]

+1 on what Echo said. I find 50-50 is a great alloy when I have lot of lino to 'spend'.

Bill

[Jack Stanley]

Thanks fellas ! One more question , mix by volume or weight ? I'm thinking volume may give the tin a better chance .

Jack

[lwknight]

Mix by weight. There is only a small difference in specific gravity so volume would not make any detectable differences. 2 equal sized ingots , one being lead and the other being linotype can for all practical purposs be considered equal in weight.

Pure tin would have to be weighed since its about 35% lighter than lead.

[Shiloh]

My 50/50 is WW/Range lead.

Plenty hard for my purposes.

Shiloh

[outdoorfan]

Just curious here , I've seen lead mixes using half and half , one lino and two lead for different mixes . For the purposes of casting twenty-two bullets what mix will give excellent fillout without filling the vent lines of a mold ?

Thanks , Jack

Do you want to kill anything with the .22's, or do you only want to punch paper?

I've found that it takes at least 2% (3% is better) tin to get great fill-out with the little .22's. I'm not as good a caster as some here, so maybe that's a part of it.

[Jack Stanley]

Outdoorfan ,
For the most part paper will be the only thing getting perforated however , if a woodchuck happens to get in the way I won't feel bad if it expires . A friend of mine has a Hornet in a Handi-rifle I think and he wants to load to rim fire velocities for tree rats and plinking .

Jack

[stubshaft]

Hardball alloy is one of my all time favorites. I have lots of lino and usually have a harder time finding pure.

[Gunslinger]

My 50/50 is WW/Range lead.

Plenty hard for my purposes.

Shiloh

+1 on that.

Use the same stuff for 9mm and .38.

In 9mm I shoot a 130gr RN at a little shy of 1000fps. Gives me the 125 power factor I need for IPSC. My gun has a polygonal barrel. Accuracy remains after 500 rounds so even though the barrel look leaded... it obviously isn't.

[HORNET]

For .22's? I use 50/50 Lino/ WW for load development and serious high velocity stuff. Straight WW if I'm messing around a little slower. Max speed with the WW depends on boolit design and powder choice.

[Jack Stanley]

When I find my own molds I will fool with other alloys but right now a very kind fella has loaned me several of his to try . Even though I tried all but one with lino , right now the RCBS fifty-five grain is getting a workout with hardball alloy . I would love to have about twenty pounds of bullets from the two antique Lyman molds he sent but really , there's not sense in being a glutton here . One of them looks like it was made for the Hornet (225353) so I'll make enough to play with and try in my friends hornet ...... a LEE bator ........ and a 225462 that I already have some experience with .

Jack