Home made gun cleaner recipe's

[Casting Timmy]

Just curious who makes their own gun cleaner and what recipe you use....looking forward to what gets listed.

I use a lot of Ed's red for the major cleaning.

[chboats]

I use Ed's red for everything except copper, which is not very often.

Carl

[Shiloh]

Ed's Red. Everything but copper.

For those rare occasions, I have Butch's Bore Shine and Sweet's 7.62.

Shiloh

[beagle]

Ed's Red. Makes a great Liquid Wrench also./beagle

[TCLouis]

Ed's Red

WipeOut if going from jacketed to cast

Palmolive and water

BP what were ya thinking

[PolishYeti]

+1 on Ed's Red ! might leave the acetone out of the next batch though. I just dont shoot shotguns enough to justify it.

[Butler Ford]

Another for Ed's Red and Moose Milk.

[primersp]

ed red also and sometime flitz metal polish

[pdawg_shooter]

Modified Ed's red here. No acetone just atf kroil and mineral spirits.

[RobS]

just as everyone else...........Ed's red with my own added ingredients..............basically though, it's Ed's red. Good Stuff it is.

For copper, which is almost never, I use industrial strength ammonia found at places like Home Depot/Lowes and I think the last time I purchased some it was at ACE Hardware.

[Shooter6br]

My vote for Ed's RED

[sundog]

Ed's Red - I use a lot of it. Like Beagle mentioned, it also makes a good 'liquid wrench'. I soaked an M48's threads for a month in Ed's Red (few drops every other day or so), and that old barrel came right off.

Wipe Out was recommended to to me by a fellow club member who set a bench rest title at KC a few years ago. I tried it, and I like it. Great product for copper removal.

Hoppe's #9 is always on the cleaning bench, too - nostalgia...

[barrabruce]

Eds red
I don't put acatone in it.
Just equal parts kero hyrdaulic fluid and turps!!!
People at the range think I'm either strange or completely mad.
If I get lead fouling I'll use brass scourer wrapped around the jag.
Toilet paper for the ER!

I leave it soak and maybe run a patch through it after a few days but I don't seem to get and more junk out.

Question!!!!!

Can I shoot pb boolits though it with out having to use a dry patch first???
Would it /does it do any harm??????


I have some other stuff I use for the occasions of jacketed stuff and it smells like ammonia to me!! Phew!!!

I plan to use alox if I want to rest my bores for any lenght of time thou.

[DLCTEX]

Ed's Red. A foam copper remover, don't remember the brand, bought at Wal Mart.

[462]

Ed' Red with acetone...like the smell.

Question for those of you who don't add acetone: Other than aiding plastic wad removal, does it add any other cleaning advantage?

[RobS]

Acetone will aid in the plastic removal such as in shot gun barrels from the wads as you mentioned, but it is also used as an industrial degreaser prior to painting etc. so I extend its use and put it in my Ed's Red mix. I shoot shotguns a reason why I use it in the Ed's Red...........I also think it helps break down powder and lube buildup.

Here is a web search quote:

"Acetone is a good solvent for most plastics and synthetic fibres including those used in laboratory bottles made of polystyrene, polycarbonate and some types of polypropylene.[3] It is ideal for thinning fiberglass resin, cleaning fiberglass tools and dissolving two-part epoxies and superglue before hardening. It is used as a volatile component of some paints and varnishes. As a heavy-duty degreaser, it is useful in the preparation of metal prior to painting; it also thins polyester resins, vinyl and adhesives."

[OLPDon]

462:

Some links info on Ed's Red

http://www.beartoothbullets.com/tips/archive_tips.htm/53

http://www.handloads.com/articles/default.asp?id=9

http://www.frfrogspad.com/homemade.htm

http://www.9mmlargo.com/eds_red.htm

The above should answer some of your Questions.

Don

[Shuz]

+ 1 for Ed's Red with out the lanolin.

[Shiloh]

+1

No lanolin in mine. About 1/3 less acetone.

Shiloh

[Casting Timmy]

Anyone ever tried this as a copper remover? I just ran across this last night....

...and an Improvement--"Humpy's White Bore Cleaner"

This modification of the "ammonia solution" thickens the liquid and helps to keep it in the bore for more efficient cleaning. You can if you like omit the 1-part sudsy ammonia

2 parts - 10% ammonia,
1 part - standard household "sudsy" ammonia (optional)
1 part - Ivory liquid dishwashing detergent (It has been reported that "Formula 409" can also be used though the resulting mixture is probably thinner.)

This formula yields about a 6.5 percent ammonia solution. If you omit the sudsy ammonia the solution is about 7.75 percent.

Thanks to Mark Humphreville for this solution

Here's the website...I think it was mentioned above too.

[Colorado4wheel]

Does Ed's Red work on frames of Glocks? Sounds like it would eat plastic.

[Big Country]

Eds' Red for several months now

[sheepdog]

Anyone have a recipe for a homemade version of Wipeout?

[Goatlips]

Chateau Faucette, with a little Dawn.

I load Real Black Powder! :Fire:

Goatlips

[alamogunr]

I started out with Ed's Red when I first became aware of the recipe. I also made up some Steve's Squeeze(Google for article). The ingredients are a little easier to find except for the Exxon Clearlite that is specified. It is no longer made but substitutes are easily obtainable.

I would not recommend one over the other. I've been satisfied with both. If using acetone in Ed's Red, be aware it flashes off quickly. I'm not sure if any is left in my bottle. Most recommend that it not be kept in plastic containers. I have some in a plastic juice bottle that has been sitting there for about 5 years or so. The only thing I did was to line the cap with aluminum foil to keep the fumes from attacking the cap. I suspect that the acetone is long gone.

John
W.TN

*Edit* Google did not return any links for Steve's Squeeze. I did find the article in a post on CB-L but I won't post a link since the list owner is somewhat touchy about such things. PM me if anyone is sufficiently interested.

[Ekalb2000]

50/50 mix of oderless mineral spirits/wd40 in a mason jar.
Works for me.

[Colorado4wheel]

Alright, I mixed a batch with out the Acetone and a smaller batch with the Acetone. First off, this stuff just plan old works. I like it a lot and I had all the ingrediants except the ATF fluid on hand. Also, I tried the Acetone vs the Glock. It did not harm the gun. I whiped it off with the non-acetone stuff afterwards but I don't think its going to hurt the plastic. I also don't think it's needed for the frame anyway so I will use my non-acetone version on the frame.

[Curly James]

Does Ed's Red work on frames of Glocks? Sounds like it would eat plastic.

Been using it for years (actually made my first batch in 1995) and it hasn't damaged any of my Glocks............

[Colorado4wheel]

Does Ed's Red work on frames of Glocks? Sounds like it would eat plastic.

Been using it for years (actually made my first batch in 1995) and it hasn't damaged any of my Glocks............

Are you using acetone in it?

[Bill*]

Well.... No-one else has mentioned it yet, so.....EDS' RED ;)

[rickt]

What is this Ed's Red? I will have to look it up. As for my cleaning I use 2/3 Kroil 1/3 Butches Bore Shine.

[SCIBUL]

Eds red formula :
1/4 DEXRON 2 or 3 motor oil,
1/4 acetone
1/4 white spirit
1/4 K1 kerosene (for indoor space heaters)

And I use it too !

[markinalpine]

Article from the Los Angeles Silhouette Club, LASC, web-site by Ed Harris, the Ed in "Ed's Red"
http://www.lasc.us/EdsRedBoreCleaner.htm
Mark :coffeecom

[geargnasher]

Ed's Red, WITH acetone, WITHOUT lanolin because I clean lots of shotguns, too, and don't live in a humid enough enviroment to need lanolin.

I have to clean copper fouling out of other people's guns that want to shoot cast (J-words are off-limits for my guns) and for that I use and Outers Foul Out.

And of course there is always the case of brake cleaner I keep under the bench.......

Gear

[hcpookie]

I'll be honest I've gotten as good of results with Ed's Red WITHOUT acetone and WITHOUT the ATF fluid. I don't really get that much copper fouling so using it without ATF works for my needs. Its hard to beat just straight-up kerosene for most gun cleaning needs :)

Lately I've discovered Ballistol and while it isn't home-made it is my new favorite cleaner/preservative.

[sheepdog]

Whats a really good home cleaner for heavy copper build up? I tried vinger and that sucked. I don't want to do straight ammonia though.

[Curly James]

Originally Posted by Curly James View Post
Does Ed's Red work on frames of Glocks? Sounds like it would eat plastic.

Been using it for years (actually made my first batch in 1995) and it hasn't damaged any of my Glocks............
Are you using acetone in it?

Yep, standard formula, I just leave the lanolin out.............

[Curlymaple42]

When I tried Ed's Red for the first time, the directions said it didn't smell. Yeh right. It frigging stinks. But it works! I made a gallon of it but I really only use it for soaking parts like AR15 bolts and such. I use Corrosion X to clean everything 99% of the time. I still have 9/10 of that gallon left...

[XWrench3]

i HAVE been using hoppes forever, but i have seriously been thinking about making my own. in the past few years, my shooting has about quadrupled, soeverything i can do to save money helps.

[billw]

I'm looking for Steve's Squeeze formula.

[alamogunr]

I'm looking for Steve's Squeeze formula.

PM me and I will email the article to you.

John
W.TN

[Fly-guy]

Good tight cotton patch soaked with Shooters Choice and a good jag. You'll be amazed how quick it will remove the lead. For corrosive ammunition, use windex with amonia!

[mdi]

Ed's Red too. My formula has morphed over the years to mineral spirits, ATF, and Kroil. I use it to soke my guns in after a shoot. Next day wipe down, run a few patches through the bore. Done. Well, I drop a little synthetic motor oil on the needed areas too.

P.S. Googled/Yahooed/Binged Steve's Squeeze - no results!

[stephen perry]

I don't follow a dog's wagging tail. Therefore I make my own solvent and borrow another's. My make is straightforwrd. I start with a clean 64 oz bottle. I add 3 cans 15 oz of GM Top Engine Cleaner blend in 1 can Kroil 8 oz and blend in white household ammonia for the remainder of bottle, leave a space in the botlle to mix without spilling. This blend will work on any jacketed or lead polluted barrel. You must use a stiff bronze brush after you let this blend soak for say 20 minutes to force out the debris. I also use JB/Isso with a wet patch of solvent for a mild scrubbing.

What I use at the Range is old Hoppes 9 with Sweets added. For Commercial solvent I recommend Shooters Choice or TM. I use Dewey rods and cotton patches.

I will do double even triple cleaning at home, wet patch set 15-20 minutes leave in solvent loaded brush twice leave set 15-20 minutes. Patch out then wet patch twice leave set over night. Wet patch next day and start over. When happy with barrel I wet patch twice and leave set until the day I shoot. The day I shoot I use rubbing alco0hol wet patches to get my barrel bone dry. Since I leave my lube on my bullets I make that's all the lube the barrel needs.

Stephen Perry
Angeles BR

[geargnasher]

I don't use Ed's Red because I follow a dog's wagging tail. I use it because, for my normal cleaning routine, it works as well or better than most things I've tried, is cheap, and I can make it in quantity, which, as you know, is important. A 4-oz bottle of hoppe's lasts me about a month if I just use it to clean bores.

That's an interesting formula you have, sounds very logical and effective. The top engine cleaner is one heck of a carbon eater, and we all know what Kroil and ammonia does. If I shot jacketed bullets I might try it.

Gear

[Changeling]

Shooters Choice, Break Free and MiliTec-1. Not home grown, just the best. Grease and oil are the cheapest things you will ever buy!

[Shooter6br]

I may be wrong but the object of Ed 's Red was a cheaper gun cleaner that works well. At the cost of some of the other ingredients listed above it has to cost as much as commerial products. I may be wrong. As The Three Stogies said"Cost is no object as long as it's cheap" i tell my wife that all the time.( Doesnt apply to guns/shooting supplies)

[Fly-guy]

OK, can't stand it any longer, what is Kroil?

[stephen perry]

Kroil oil is the super slick red oil that will get underneath lead or copper in a barrel and allow the crud to be brushed out. You can buy it in small cans 8 oz or up to a gallon size from some of the shooting supply retailers. GM top engine cleaner is not as available at dealers in cans as it use to be though some dealers have it. Top engine is a powder cutter. Powder and primer pollution is nasty stuff, it becomes an abrasive and some you can't get out it actually resides in the cracks and crevices of a barrel. Some shooting supply retailers have some GM. Ammonia aids iin dissolving copper pollution left from bullet jackets, you buy household ammonia at your super market. All three are base chemicals so no violent reaction when blended. Blend each time you put some in smaller bottles.

Stephen Perry
Angeles BR

[Shooter6br]

Marvel Mystery Oil is a poor mans Kroil.Most auto parts stores have it.

[Fly-guy]

Thanks guys! :oops:

[alamogunr]

OK, can't stand it any longer, what is Kroil?

http://www.kanolabs.com/

[Patrick L]

The cost of the materials that are used to make Ed's Red may indeed be more than a 4 oz. bottle of commercial solvent, but you will make a LOT of Ed's Red, so therefore it is cheaper!

I use it both with and without acetone.

Being a shotgun shooter, I figured the acetone would be beneficial for the plastic wad residue, so I used it for years with acetone added, stored in a glass bottle. Just recently I mixed up a batch without acetone so that I could use it in a plastic sprayer bottle. You know, I'm not seeing much difference.

BTW, I use synthetic kerosene called Cleanheat (or maybe Kleenheat?)in place of the K1 as the synthetic is odorless. Actually, that synthetic kerosene makes a pretty good solvent all by itself!

[Fly-guy]

http://www.kanolabs.com/

This ole dog has been discovering a lot of neat tricks on this web site. Brass cleaning, Recluses' bullet lube and now Kroil.

Thanks!:)

[lgsracer]

New guy here I found the formula for Steve's Squeeze, in all places in the archives.

I have a bunch of search engines and one of them finally dug it up.

Looking forward to being on this forum, haven't cast in years since I got out of the NSSA. Did a lot of it back then, you sure burn up a lot of lead casting them 58 caliber minies.

Greg

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/archive/index.php/t-1757.html

Steve's Squeeze
Steve's Squeeze
1 quart deodorized mineral spirits or Exxon ClearLite fuel.
1 quart xylene
1 quart MEK
1 quart ATF or Marvel Mystery Oil

For rust protection in storage, add 4 ounces of Lee Liquid Alox per gallon.
There will be a precipitate in the bottom of the storage container. Do not
shake the storage container, pour the cleaner off the precipitate for use.

Because of the increased solvent power of Steve's Squeeze, store it in glass
or metal containers. Do not store this mixture in plastic bottles. It can
destroy plastic, and it will evaporate through the plastic. You can use
polyethylene squeeze bottles for application, but not for storage. Steve's
Squeeze is harmless to bluing and nickel plating, however it will damage
many stock finishes.

Print this label and place on the container:

RIFLE BORE CLEANER

CAUTION: HARMFUL IF SWALLOWED.
KEEP OUT OF REACH OF CHILDREN

Flammable mixture, Keep away from heat, sparks or flame.

Use with adequate ventilation. Avoid breathing vapors or
spray mist. Avoid contact with skin.
Keep container tightly closed when not in use.

FIRST AID, If swallowed DO NOT induce vomiting, call a
physician immediately. In case of eye contact, immediately
flush thoroughly with water and call a physician.
In case of skin contact, wash thoroughly.

Safe compounding and use are your responsibility.

Storage

After cleaning with Steve's Squeeze and rinsing with mineral spirits, I
apply Steve's Squeeze with Liquid Alox for storage. I wear gloves to avoid
fingerprints, and wrap the gun in a polyethylene plastic wrap, one-gallon
plastic bags work well for pistols and revolvers, kitchen garbage bags for
rifles. This prevents removing the coating if you place the gun in a gun
case and prevents accidental fingerprints when you handle the gun. I put the
gun in the plastic bag while still wet, the solvents evaporate through the
plastic and the gun is dry the next time it is used.

For long term (decades) storage of firearms and ferrous metals, Cosmoline
has long been the gold standard. For an easy to use replacement for
Cosmoline, I mix Lee Liquid Alox with an equal amount of deodorized mineral
spirits and brush it onto the gun. Submerged complex parts like trigger
assemblies and drip-dry. The same plastic bag system works for long-term
storage. Heavy plastic bags specifically made for firearms storage are
available, and may be better in extreme conditions.

It is easy to remove dried Lee Liquid Alox with mineral spirits or any of
the spray solvents like carburetor or brake cleaner. Immediately coat the
gun with Steve's Squeeze, to prevent rust.

You are free to copy this article provided you send it in its entirety.

Steve Hurst

[Nose Dive]

Well Ole Ed's Red...if you got gun gunk..powder trash,,,did I say Dirt too? Cosmoline..wax,, grease...Ed's Red will get it all off... Now consider Copper..umm No Ammonia in ED's Red soo, the old copper must be scrubbed other wise..Hoppes,,No. 9...does it for me...then into a bath of Ed's Red..cheap...easy to use..can save and reuse it and CHEEPER than No. 9....

Ok,,got the gunk off..range trash, sand from here is west Texas...How's about a bit of lead...not the same problem here at all.....Lead is funny stuff. Best to avoid it by using the right boolit OD and not promoting gas cutting ...aka leading... there is PLENTY to read on these pages about leading and its causes...get on after et!!!

If I run into a bunch of it..on a 'new' gun I have picked up at the Gun Show...AND IF i cannot just 'scrub and cuss' it out...I use MERCURY. No, I ain't gonna tell ya how. But it will make an amalgum and it willl come out. MERCURY ain't nothing to have layin around the laoding bench and I have 20 years experience in dealing with it. How to get it, how to use it, AND MORE IMPORTANTLY...how to capture it and DISPOSE OF IT>>>SAFELY>>>IT IS A POSION and you don't put it down the darn sink!! that water eventually goes into a water stream somewhere and it DOES NOT disolve away.. So,,get some good brushes...I use dental tools too..scrap and cuss...scrap and cuss and lube it good with Ed's Red... It will all come out... I have 'restored' some old barrels the amalgum way,,but don't really like to do it..as if I didn't have access to SAFE and EPA approved disposal (did I say free too..old buddy of mine)..then I would fool with it at all. But an ole 30-30 Winchester once was too cheap and too good to walk away from...saved to old barrel...but did go to a bigger OD boolit to prevent the mess all over again...

So..what other gun gunk you got? Think we covered it all...Lead..Copper...Junk... OH yea...Ed's Red leaves a nice protective coating on your piece too... I pull the major pieces out fo the BATH and blow them down with the air compressor...good ole air!!! Helps keep the OILY "CATCH THE DUST" layer off the piece too...

Don't forget to save your old tooth brushes...they are good to scrub gun parts... My version of ED's Red....See the string of notes on this ...it is a list of sticky's...all are good...

1 part Dextron II transmission fluid
1 part Deorderised Kerosene
1 part "GUNK" engine cleaner
1 part Acetone
1 part Marvel Mystery Oil (no 'OIL' in it)
.05 part "DUCK" adhesive remover...

All da stuff is Walmart available...cheap.. store in HEAVY POLY or metal containers...

It will IGNITE...IT IS Posinious...so use in well ventilated area...keep away from "LITTE FEET" and capture spent material...reuse it.. I blended the above mix in gallon jugs 5 years ago..still have it...still using it... Keep it out of your eyes so where glasses/goggles/facesheild...gloves... Use your head...as usual... Keep all "Little Feet" away from you and the work ....

It ain't fun if your hurtin'.

Nose Dive

[kfarm]

Ed's Red. It even has a lot of uses here on the farm.

[alamogunr]

New guy here I found the formula for Steve's Squeeze, in all places in the archives.


Steve's Squeeze
1 quart deodorized mineral spirits or Exxon ClearLite fuel.
1 quart xylene
1 quart MEK
1 quart ATF or Marvel Mystery Oil

For rust protection in storage, add 4 ounces of Lee Liquid Alox per gallon.
There will be a precipitate in the bottom of the storage container. Do not
shake the storage container, pour the cleaner off the precipitate for use.


Steve Hurst

When I made a batch 2 or 3 years ago, I couldn't find the Exxon Clearlite. As far as I was able to find out, they no longer made it. I ended up using another fuel, hoping it was just as good. Also, I used Marvel Mystery Oil. If I ever have to do it again I will use ATF. Why? Just because I like the color better. If you have both Ed's Red and Steve's Squeeze on hand(as I did at the time), you will be able to tell which is which if you use MMO.

John
W.TN

[onondaga]

I use the Humpy's white at the range. At home I use Hoppe's Elite pump spray,

[Rocky Raab]

Swimming very much against the tide, but here goes: How about a nontoxic, nonflammable, all natural, odorless and free bore cleaner that really works?

Interested? The answer is ...





Steam.


Fire up one of those portable Red Devil home steam cleaners, stick the tapered nozzle into the chamber and squeeze the trigger for 15 seconds. EVERYTHING comes out of the muzzle, the barrel is now hot, and a single oiled patch goes right into the steel's pores for rust protection.

Try it once and see.

[mdi]

Swimming very much against the tide, but here goes: How about a nontoxic, nonflammable, all natural, odorless and free bore cleaner that really works?

Interested? The answer is ...





Steam.


Fire up one of those portable Red Devil home steam cleaners, stick the tapered nozzle into the chamber and squeeze the trigger for 15 seconds. EVERYTHING comes out of the muzzle, the barrel is now hot, and a single oiled patch goes right into the steel's pores for rust protection.

Try it once and see.

Now that's thinking "outside the box". Good idea. I wish I could get on Rocky's site but my 'puter doesn't like it.

[Rocky Raab]

It's your browser that doesn't like it. Use Firefox or Chrome or ANYTHING but IE and it will display fine.

[No_1]

I spoke with him about that. He said that even though it was designed with Microsoft stuff it is best viewed by not using Microsoft stuff. Good figure.

Give Firefox a try and enjoy what he has to offer. Worked for me!


Now that's thinking "outside the box". Good idea. I wish I could get on Rocky's site but my 'puter doesn't like it.

[Rocky Raab]

Typical Microsoft. I designed the pages with one version of Publisher. The next version totally scrambled the coding when I tried a minor update. After much re-write and work, it will now display with any browser except some versions of Internet Exploder. I'm not touching it for fear of losing the whole thing again.

If I ever get enough gumption, I'll re-create the whole website using better software - but I'll leave out a lot that's there now. Until then, just use Firefox or Chrome.

[Brick85]

I like that steam idea, but for now I'm going to try some Ed's Red. I tried soaking carry guns in diesel fuel for a few days and blowing off, but still ended up with some rust after I carried a bit more in the summer heat. So much for the idea of diesel forming a protective layer.

I might even put extra lanolin in the Ed's Red, since we're near salt air here and carry pieces get sweaty, too. I'll probably keep the acetone out until I'm ready to use it, though I might just keep it in the containers from the mineral spirits, acetone, or kerosene (all those gallon metal cans with screw-on caps).

I hear hydraulic fluid is the same stuff as ATF but without the red, and much cheaper. Is that true? Maybe I should make Ed's not so Red.

Also diesel is like kerosene but with extra "good stuff" in it for metals. It smells more, but I wonder how it would be instead of the kerosene, since it's cheaper and I have lots around?

[billw]

Brick 85, I use anhydrous lanolin in my Ed's Red with Dextron II or III ATF, not hydraulic fluid and not diesel although both ought to work as well as ordinary kerosene to help clean carbon, powder and primer residue as does mineral spirits. ATF is a protectant for high pressure and anti-oxident. I have some clean kero for lamp oil to protect the mantels in my Alladin lamps, no acid content, expensive and don't use it in Ed's Red. For many years I used ordinary kero in my lamps and heater and see no harm done.

I leave out acetone unless needed to clean out plastic shot wads in shotguns.

Anhydrouis lanolin is what protects the blued and stainless (from salt) gun metal from rusting if stored in racks or gun safes. Of course fingerprints will cause rust as does any salty sweat. Many of my guns suffered little or none from a serious house fire as all had thin or heavy coating of Ed's Red and I had even a heavier concentration of lanolin for some of them and the military parkerized and bead blasted and blued guns soaked up much more and had no damage from the fire, smoke residue and water from the fire department.

Carry guns need to be wiped down every day and any time handled with a very thin and light coating of Ed's Red such that it won't pick up any debris keeping the gun from working properly. A cotton gun cloth or even a paper towel in a Ziplock can be carried if necessary to wipe down the blued guns as well as stainless one. I use a toothbrush to get to difficult areas of the guns crevices, sights and screws and then wipe off excess. All bearing surfaces and hinges are lightly lubed as well.

I could say more but this is enough and I am convinced Ed's Red is about the best you can make for all but removing heavy copper or lead alloy fouling. I have use many commercial gun cleaners and lubes, still use some of them and make others as well as needed, long story.

[XWrench3]

well, i shoot a mix of "j" bullets, and boolits. i have been using hoopes bench rest (for copper removal) in everything. i am down under 1/2 pint, and i printed off the ingredients to make myself up a batch of eds red. going to give that a try. i also have a bottle of sweets 7.62, and a container of jb paste. both of these last two do not get used often, but once in a while, you need some extra cleaning. typicly, i clean after every shooting session. i will be mixing up two gallons of eds the first time around. one to use like normal, and one for a soak "tank".

[alamogunr]

This thread and others that have active over the past few years have one common link, "where do I get lanolin?". A few years ago I ran across an alternative to Ed's Red that got hung with the moniker, "Steve's Squeeze". I was attracted to it because it used LLA instead of lanolin. For the most part, Steve's Squeeze has been ignored. Since we have several members here who are much more comfortable with the chemistry of compounds that we use, I would be curious as to the relative effectiveness of lanolin vs. LLA as a rust preventive, assuming that is the role they play in the respective mixes. Anyone??

John
W.TN

[Brick85]

Carry guns need to be wiped down every day and any time handled with a very thin and light coating of Ed's Red such that it won't pick up any debris keeping the gun from working properly. A cotton gun cloth or even a paper towel in a Ziplock can be carried if necessary to wipe down the blued guns as well as stainless one. I use a toothbrush to get to difficult areas of the guns crevices, sights and screws and then wipe off excess. All bearing surfaces and hinges are lightly lubed as well.


Do you use the toothbrush every day? Do you disassemble the gun every day, or just wipe down the exterior?

I saw the document put out by Ed himself, and he recommended also making a gun oil out of ATF and Kerosene, 1:1, for use in oiling the guns. Perhaps that's what would be best to wipe it down with, to keep the acetone off the wood? I would probably add some lanolin when I get some to that gun oil, too, if that makes sense.

[fiberoptik]

Lanolin is found in the baby section of big box stores in “toothpaste” tubes for nursing mommy nipples.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[cuzinbruce]

Lanolin is an excellent lubricant. Frequently used for case sizing and forming. I use it. Quite effective, just a bit on the fingertip.
Hatcher's notebook had a formula for Japanese gun oil that included lanolin.
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?293102-Hatcher-s-Notebook-Japanese-Gun-Oil