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03lover
02-10-2010, 04:17 PM
Bore Leading Problem Caused By?

Like many reloader shooters, I have had my share of bore leading. The problem as most of us that deal with leading problems know, there can be a number of causes and at times more than one cause at a time making the solution to the problem difficult to resolve.

There is a list of the common causes of bore leading that we tend to follow in an attempt to eliminate the leading. I will not get into the established list of causes that most of us are well aware of. What I want to do is introduce the readers to a cause that is most often overlooked and the calibers most affected by this least known cause of leading and poor accuracy.

My worst experience with bore leading has been with the 9mm Luger. The next has been with my 38 Super. I see on many of the forums dealing with bore leading, the 9mm is one of the worst and many replies come back saying, “I shoot the 45 ACP with thousands of rounds of lead and have no problems.” The 45 ACP is actually very different from the 9mm.

Now for the cause of the problem. Cast or swaged lead bullets are being swaged down to a diameter that is less than the bullet diameter was before seating. We work hard to choose a bullet diameter that is properly fitted to the gun, cylinder throats, groove diameter of the bore, only to have that diameter reduced by the shell casing it is seated in. Please read on because this is a very real problem with some cartridges. You can perform your own test to see just how much of a problem it is for you with your loading process and components. You sort out the different brands of brass you load. Then process the brass as you normally do and without primer or powder seat and crimp your bullets as you normally do. Now pull those bullets and measure them, base and upper portion. I am sure with some brands of brass you will be very surprised.

There are a couple of reasons for that. The 9mm operates at about twice the pressure of the 45 ACP and the 38 Super is even higher pressure. The cause of the problem? The 9mm and the 38 Super, because of the pressure levels they operate at require the wall thickness and or the hardness of the brass to be thicker or harder to withstand those pressures. These cartridges also have a taper inside, getting progressively thicker as you get nearer to the base. In my case when I seated a cast bullet cast from wheel weights and 2% tin, when the bullets were pulled, I found the diameters had been reduced by .001” to as much as .003”. Often this reduction in diameter was greater at the base of the bullet than the portion at the case mouth. The longer the bullet or the deeper they are seated into the shell casing the greater the problem. A secondary cause of bullets being reduced in diameter during the loading process is the use of the Lee Carbide Crimping Die. If when using this die, there is any real sizing done, the bullet will be reduced in diameter and this can lead to bullet set back during the auto loading cycle because the bullet does not spring back as much as the harder brass causing less bullet retention in addition to leading the bore. I do like the Lee die, but not as a final resizing of the loaded round If there is a problem with chambering, I fix it so use of the Lee die is not necessary.

The 45 ACP is not immune to the problem, but is not near so bad as the other short cased pistol rounds. I would guess the 40 S&W and a few other calibers would experience this problem also.

I took three different brands of 9mm brass, Winchester, R-P an FC and processed it as I always do, seated a .355” diameter jacketed bullet and taper crimped to remove any bell. Then I measured the outside diameter of the rounds where the bullet is inside the shell casing. I found with the brass I have, the diameter varied from the smallest to largest, .003”. That means is my case, the R-P brass is .0015” thicker per side that the FC brass which is the thinnest.

Without boring the readers to death, I found the FC brass being thinner worked best for my cast bullets sized at .3565” to .357” diameter. With my 9mm and 38 Super I played with the different sizing dies I have and expanders to come up with the combination that provides good bullet retention without reducing cast bullet diameter. Not all sizing dies or expanders are equal. For jacketed bullets in the 9mm, I prefer the R-P brass and .355” bullets for good bullet retention.

Long pistol cartridges like the 38 Special, 357 Magnum or the 45 Colt have enough give in the case that seating a cast or swaged bullet rarely causes a reduction in bullet diameter. Too much taper crimping or use of the Lee Carbide Factory Crimp Die can mess things up. Being aware this can be a problem will help the reloader avoid being the cause of a leading or poor accuracy problem.

mooman76
02-10-2010, 09:08 PM
Good read.

Slow Elk 45/70
02-10-2010, 09:37 PM
03lover, a good read and I think you have the answers to the higher pressure short pistol cartriges, they can be a pain , so your info should help some of our brothern here that have had problems with these and have not figured it out [smilie=1::cbpour:...thanks for sharing.:redneck: :Fire:

beagle
02-10-2010, 10:29 PM
Good article there. I've noticed this in some .30 Carbine cast rounds that I pulled as well.

Right on on the FC 9mm Luger brass as well. I never measured the thickness but it does give me less problems than other brands./beagle

duhbob
02-10-2010, 11:32 PM
Thanks,o3lover you touched on things which are obvious to many but at the same time new to others, like me. I can see why sorting brass can be useful. Now I can add relative case thickness to help diagnose problems.
My latest deal was BAADD leading in a XD 5" 9mm barrel, which I have solved by switching powders (from HP38 to AA#7). The 124 grain Lee tumble-lube style cast boolit tumbled in flight and fouled the barrel using the faster powder. And at the same time I became aware the "Lee carbide factory crimp" die was tapering the cases 'cause it was adjusted a third turn too low at the outside threads...while the inside narrower screw-in did not even contact the case.

Ole
02-11-2010, 12:03 AM
I noticed a pretty big drop in my leading issues with my 9mm when I cast my own bullets pretty soft (10-11 BHN) and sized them .357".

Most commercial cast bullets are too hard and too small.

I use the Lee 125 RNFP mold and i'm really happy with it.

duhbob
02-11-2010, 12:37 AM
I noticed a pretty big drop in my leading issues with my 9mm when I cast my own bullets pretty soft (10-11 BHN) and sized them .357".

Most commercial cast bullets are too hard and too small.

I use the Lee 125 RNFP mold and i'm really happy with it.

1. Is the 125 RNFP listed as a 9mm or some other cal.? 2. Which part# is the mold, 3. Is it 2 cavity or 6?
thanks

Recluse
02-11-2010, 12:42 AM
Good points and well written.

Lot of serious food for thought in there. 9mm has always been my Achilles Heel with cast boolits.

:coffee:

Ole
02-11-2010, 08:14 PM
1. Is the 125 RNFP listed as a 9mm or some other cal.? 2. Which part# is the mold, 3. Is it 2 cavity or 6?
thanks


It's a .358" mold. Lee #90306. Mine is a 6 cavity mold. Drops boolits in the .360"-.361" range.

http://www.grafs.com/product/261956

I size the boolits to .357" so I can use them in both my .357 and my 9mm.

I haven't tried them in my GP100 as of yet, but intend to try a few and see what happens. I have no problems with buying another sizer in .358 or .359 if I have to. This is a great bullet design, IMO.

jonk
02-12-2010, 10:45 AM
It is a possible issue for sure.

However if you are aware of it as an issue steps can be taken.

For instance, if you're seeing .001-.003 bullet diameter reduction upon seating and feeding, rather than casting and loading .001+ over groove diameter, go for at least .002-.004. Drop that overszed casting into a fired casing from the gun and see if it will slide in.

If so, the problem is PROBABLY going to be eliminated.

Or to make it short, just see if you can use fatter bullets.

prs
02-12-2010, 11:34 AM
I have not loaded 9mm or .38 Super; but on this subject, there is another huckelberry we encounter with our loading dies and our cast boolits. The vast majority of the available dies are manufactured to tolerances based upon the anticipated use of copper condom bullets. The common internal size dies and powder through dies are a real bubaboo here. RCBS provides or provided some of their die sets with internal sizers specifically suited for lead boolits and that helped me avoid unintended case sizing of boolits. The Lyman "M" dies are intended to address this issue in rifle boolits as well. Lead boolits are lousy internal case sizers! ;-)

The OP mentioned a well known "list" of leading problem caues. Is there such a published list on our site -- if not, there should be. Do we have a "How too" WIKI where such things are posted?

prs

MtGun44
02-12-2010, 08:07 PM
For most people the 9mm leading and tumbling problems go hand in hand. The most common
problem is that the typical commercial cast boolit is undersized. My brother just recently
went thru this same thing. He had tumbling 9mm Luger boolits, commercial .355, the "normal"
diameter he was told. He has been reloading .45 ACP for years without drama. I gave him
30 Lee TC conventional lube boolits that I sized to .357 and he had round holes and no
leading. He later located some .356 commercial cast which are at least hitting straight on,
but may be leading, only a few fired so far.

As has been said - for 9mm too hard to obturate and too small to fill the grooves is the usual
problem, altho not 100%. After getting a softer boolit and a better bore fit (typically .357 will
chamber properly in most guns) the problem is gone, however a few cases have required
changes to crimping and lubricant and even the powder selection.

I believe it is Bret that has said "Fit is king" and this is absolutely correct. Undersized can work
with jacketed, but does not work well with boolits. Many 9mm Luger caliber pistols, especially
European makers, are well over the nominal .3555 groove diameter that the books report. Many
slug at .357 or .358, so even .360 boolit diam would work, but rounds will not chamber in many
guns beyond .357 or .358 boolit diameter.

Bill

Marlin Hunter
02-12-2010, 08:32 PM
Thank you for the information

azcruiser
02-12-2010, 09:19 PM
alway thought leading was conected to volicity if ypou 9mm and 38 supers were going the same speed as your 45 acp your leading problem would go away

runfiverun
02-13-2010, 12:01 AM
leading can be caused by lube, poor fit,pressure, case squeezing.
skidding,gas cutting,poor seating.
and probably a few other things.

03lover
02-18-2010, 11:43 PM
I have been chasing a leading problem in my Ruger 357 Magnum. As with the 9mm, using the faster powders causes leading and the slower ones don't. Bullseye and 700x at the faster end and AA 7 at the slower end.

I went through all the items that could have been the cause. Checked the chamber throats, slugged the bore. Did some fire lapping and polishing of the bore. That helped but didn't stop the leading.

I figured I would size some cast bullets big enough to be tight in the throats, thinking there may have been a little flame cutting. I processed the fired brass with the dies I have always used. When I was seating the oversized boolits I noticed there was considerable resistence and more pressure on the press handle than normal.

I pulled several boolits and found the .360" diameter cast boolits were now .356" diameter at the base and closer to the .360" at the top. The boolit is a 145 grain wad cutter cast from a H & G mould. The BHN of these cast boolits checked out at 11.8 using a Lee hardness tester. I figured that hardness would be fine for low to mid range velocities, a max. of 1000 fps.. I hadn't planned on the brass reducing the boolit diameter.

For the purpose of testing the effect of boolit diameter on leading in my Ruger, I expermented with some dies to see if I could find a combination that would provide minimal sizing of the brass, that wouldn't undersize the .360" diameter boolits. I found the Lee carbide factory crimp die for 38/357 worked with the .360" diameter bullet. I remove the crimper. Minimal bullet retention, but enough with a moderate roll crimp and the 3.5 grain of 700X load shouldn't cause boolits to creep forward under recoil. The loaded rounds do chamber freely so that isn't a problem. I plan to shoot these tomorrow and will post the results.

MtGun44
02-19-2010, 01:35 AM
I shoot 11 BHN plain based Keith's at full velocity in .357 and .44 mag. Fit, design and
lube are the keys. I use Hornady dies and a solid crimp in the .357 and a separate
'profile crimp' die from Redding, which seems to be sort of a steeper taper crimp, in .44 Mag.
Zero leading, perfectly clean bores. "big enough to be tight in the throats" seems a bit
vague. You want to be throat diameter or .001 or even .002 larger than throat diameter
if you can chamber the rounds.

I use 2400 and H110 mostly in the magnums, altho Unique is another excellent choice for
a bit less than max velocity. BHN is NOT a limiting factor at some particular velocity if you
get the powder, fit, design and lube right.

What lube are you using? What are your throat and groove diameters? I suspect that
the boolit design is intended for .38 Spl target velocity and may have poor lube quantity, so may
demand a top quality lube. I think if you want higher velocity that .38 Spl target level,
you need a more 'velocity friendly' design like Keith or LBT. I have had excellent results with
the Lee 158 gr LBT style BB, and highly recommend the RCBS 150 gr SWC .357, very accurate
and zero leading. The Lyman 358477 is also a great design, especially the 150 gr version.
Of course, the great old Lyman 348429 original Keith is an excellent boolit, especially at high
velocities.

I am really surprised at your diameter reduction. Is this due to those darned Lee pistol
FC die again? We seem to be getting a steady flow of folks that are having trouble with
these crunching their boolits to a smaller diameter and causing leading. It is not clear if
seating into the brass is reducing diameter or the FCD. If seating in the brass, maybe you
need a bigger expander nose.

Bill

03lover
02-20-2010, 01:38 AM
MtGun44,

To answer your last question first, "No, the diameter reduction is not due to the Lee Carbide Factory Crimp Die." I had stated in my previous reply, I do not use the Lee Factory Crimp Die with loaded rounds.

As for the boolit fit, the .360" diameter boolit is very tight in the throats and .002" larger than the groove diameter.

I have tried several different bullet lubes, The old NRA 50/50 Alox/bees wax, Lee tumble lube, Thompson lube in three different grades and lastly, the LBT Blue soft that Verl Smith claims to be better than all other lubes. Having tested all these lubes I can say without a doubt, the lube is not the problem.

As for bullet design, I worked with more than a dozen different designs from wadcutters for low end work to semi wad cutters, Keith design, round nose of several different weights and designs. It isn't a bullet design problem. Boolit weights from 115 grain to 160 grain with several weights in a number of designs.

The problem starts with the use of faster burning powders. Others have found the same problem in the 9mm and other calibers. A switch to a slower powder very often eliminates the problem of leading.

With this subject of a leading problem, attention is always given to the boolit, boolit fit to the gun and lube. It appears to me that I have covered those items several times over. To be sure, there are many shooters with guns that ZERO lead. This is not true of everyones guns. The gun could be the problem that almost no one has suggested. I had stated I did some fire lapping and polishing of the bore and the amount of leading was reduced. The leading I get always starts at the beginning of the rifling and rarely extends farther than one inch into the bore. Some loads lead a little and never advance with additional firing. Some bullet designs and harder boolits tend to lead less.

In this Ruger Blackhawk, there is no such thing as zero lead. Not all of my revolvers and semi auto's lead. I am discussing the one that does. I believe this revolver needs more attention to the bore finish in the first one inch of bore and maybe the forcing cone which is very short and abrupt.

I haven't given up on the gun yet. Today I shot a number of one ragged hole ten shot groups at fifty feet with that gun. Several of those loads were loads that would lead from as little as a barely detectable trace to minor and did not get any worse to loads that with more than 30 to 40 rounds leaded enough to cause accuracy to go away.

My attention goes to the bore condition and the forcing cone. After several thousand rounds of different boolits, different boolit hardness, different lubes and powders there is little else to focus on.

randyrat
02-20-2010, 04:44 AM
Very good read....I was talking to a gentleman just the other day. He said he has sent a few Rugers out to have the forcing cones smoothed out. I said; Why? He said; they were leading and i tried everything else. Did it work? He said; Yes........

03lover
02-20-2010, 02:45 PM
Although I am 90% plus sure the forcing cone of my 357 mag. Ruger needs some attention, I decided to do one more test.

With boolit shapes the sharper the boolit shoulders, the greater the leading. Wad cutters worst, followed by semi wad cutters and round nose least. This is with the boolit hardness all nearly the same.

When I went of a commercial cast 158 grain RNFP having a BHN of 18.6, I fired (30) rounds and there was barely a trace of lead on the forward edge of the forcing cone. The harder boolit did help although it is masking the real problem.

Having read about forcing cone angles and their affect on accuracy and leading, it is becoming clear the 11 degree forcing cone is best for wad cutters and semi wad cutters. It provides less of an abrupt edge when the boolit enters the bore. The 18 degree angle is suppose to be better for round nose style bullets and that is what most revolver manufacturers use.

Now I have to make a choice as to what angle I should go with. Do I just polish what I have and call it good, or do I take the leap of faith and go with the 11 degree angle well polished? I am leaning toward a good polish job of the existing forcing cone angle and entry into the bore first, because once comitted to the 11 degree angle, there is no return. If I don't see enough improvenent, I can go to the 11 degree angle. Hopefully no harm will be done.