Newbie question

[Duckhunter]

This is a basic question; one so basic the directions are not on the instruction that comes with my Lee mould. After I get the mould hot, after I fill the cavity(ies) with molten lead, what is the proper way to cut the spru and get the boolits out of the mould. It occurs to me that a claw hammer and screw driver are not the preferred tools for this job.

I have used a hammer to cut the spru and I have used a jewelers screwdriver to gently shove the boolits out of the mould (while trying to avoid scratching the mould). This usually involves placing the mould block on a wooden pad to support the mould and striking the spru cutter on the end with a hammer. I fear that I may damage my mould.

How should it be done????

DH

[mooman76]

Most use a wooden handel or mallet to cut the sprue. I use a plastic headed mallet about 4 oz I believe. Then I tap on the center hinge and the bullet falls right out. That's if it didn't fall out already. Some also wear a heavy glove to open the sprue. If you have a difficult mould that the bullets don't come out easy you should read up here on lamenting.

[runfiverun]

i follow the get the mold so hot it just sits there with molten lead in the cavities.
then wipe down the mold and apply,either bullplate or anti-sieze to the pins and top of mold then start casting.
i also open with the glove by feel and yes i do get a slight tear of the sprue,very slight.
but the boolits sure are pretty and the sizer smooths the slight tear out.

[Tazman1602]

Rawhide mallet works great for cutting the sprue. I try to hit down a *little* bit on the sprue plate so's not to bend the sprue plate away from the top of the mold (don't ask how I know that one...), then gently tap on the handle bolt when mold is open and they fall right out.

Art

[AZ-Stew]

The instructions ARE on the box your mould came in. Use a wooden stick (replacement hammer handles work well) to strike the sprue plate tab PARALLEL to the top of the mould blocks. Then, if the boolits don't fall out, strike the hinge of the handles to get them to drop. It's all there on the box.

NEVER use ANYTHING to pry between the mould cavity and the boolit! You WILL scratch and ruin the mould!

Regards,

Stew

[SciFiJim]

I cut the sprue with a gloved thumb. You have to do it while the lead is solid but before it cools enough to be hard. You have to experiment with it to figure out the best time. You can remelt any mistakes so its not hard to figure out.

A technique I have developed for myself for getting the boolits out. When I cut the sprue I rotate my hand so the mold is upside down. I grasp the handle nearest my thumb with the index finger and flip the other handle open with the other fingers. Then if needed I tap on the bolt that holds the handles together while the mold it open. I use a piece of wooden broom handle to tap with. Not a lot of force in needed. If that doesn't work to get a boolit out, I will push it out with a gloved hand. That boolit goes into the remelt pile.

This sounds complex, but is actually very easy.

[Duckhunter]

All this is really helpful. I have the welding golves, wooden mallet, etc., but I've never even seen boolits cast before. I think I can use your suggestions, or a combination of them, to perfect my method. Thanks for flattening the learning curve a bit.

DH

[captaint]

DH - I use a wood mallet. Cut the sprue when it solidifies (changes color, you'll see it) and then is sucks down into the cavity. That's when I give it a gentle whack. Shouldn't have to hit it hard. enjoy Mike

[SciFiJim]

Duckhunter,
I had never seen a boolit cast in person before I started. Do a search on youtube. There are several videos of people casting. After watching there and reading a lot here you will spot some unsafe practices and some huh? moments. One video I saw, the guy beat the poop out of his mold to get the boolits out. Youtube will at least give you the general idea.

Other than myself, I have still not seen a boolit cast in person. No one near me casts that I know of. One friend is a bench rest competitor, but only shoots bench rest grade jacketed.

[Duckhunter]

The youtube suggestion was great. :coffeecom I didn't know that much info was available. I see how a lot of this is done (correctly I might add). Thanks for the help.

DH

[462]

Duckhunter,
I open the sprue plate with a gloved hand, hitting it just doesn't make sense.

I use a small rubber mallet to lightly tap on the handle pivot bolt, if the boolits don't readily fall out.

SciFiJim,
Like you, I don't know any casters and am learning on my own. Obviously, with the gracious help found here.

[HeavyMetal]

One and two cavity molds, heck I have a three cavity Saeco 357 mold, these I open with a gloved hand. Unless the alloy is stone cold they all open easy.

Move up to a 4 cavity mold and I go to a small mallet with a hard plastic tip these molds are just to awkward to open by hand.

Had the use of some large H&G molds a long time ago and these required a mallet to open!

Use your hand to open the small molds they will live longer.

[MT Gianni]

Duckhunter, My first dozen bullets after reading all I could, but pre-internet and used equip were with the sprue plate off to the side and eyeballing to see if it looked level. We all start somewhere, it depends a lot on how long it takes you to learn and move on.

[Willbird]

I like to use a small dead blow hammer to cut the sprue and to tap the hinge on the handles to convince the bullets to drop out. I like that the dead blow gives more of a "thud" than a "rap".

Bill

[SciFiJim]

Duckhunter, If you want to see how not to do it, read the original post in this thread.

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?t=41217

Just goes to show that we all start somewhere. It won't take you long to get the hang of it and develop your own technique.