Mold Release

[azrednek]

Somebody mentioned it recently, in the past few months. Of something similar or the same as the spray graphite used for mold release that is available in hardware stores. I did a search and couldn't find it. Can anybody suggest an alternative? I'm looking for something that might work on the sticking pin problems with the recent 41 cal Miha mold. I mis-placed my spray can of Brownell's mold release and I'm looking for a substitute so I don't have to wait for another can to arrive.

Also if anybody has been following the results thread of the recent 41 Miha mold and has any suggestions or advice on fixing the sticking pin problem it sure will be appreciated.

[Charlie Sometimes]

Aero or Kano KROIL.
Check industrial supply houses for other types of mold releases.

Could smoke the mold in the flame of a candle, too.

[Wally]

Somebody mentioned it recently, in the past few months. Of something similar or the same as the spray graphite used for mold release that is available in hardware stores. I did a search and couldn't find it. Can anybody suggest an alternative? I'm looking for something that might work on the sticking pin problems with the recent 41 cal Miha mold. I mis-placed my spray can of Brownell's mold release and I'm looking for a substitute so I don't have to wait for another can to arrive.

Also if anybody has been following the results thread of the recent 41 Miha mold and has any suggestions or advice on fixing the sticking pin problem it sure will be appreciated.

Can you not spread some graphite powder on it and just brush off with a brush (before you use/heat it)?

[Shiloh]

I use smoke from a wood stove butane lighter. There is a sticky about Kroil, but i have never needed or tried it.

Shiloh

[RayinNH]

azrednek, mould release is just graphite spray lube, available at auto parts type stores (NAPA, Pep Boys, etc.) and some hardware stores. It's probably available at Home Depot or Lowe's as well...Ray

[Slow Elk 45/70]

Also, there is Bullplate, works wonders on molds...they have a site at the bottom of the page...

[Le Loup Solitaire]

Normally in a "healthy" mold, particularly one made of iron, bullets don't usually stick...or alignment pins either. If a sticking situation exists a dusting with some powdered graphite can ease/solve the problem. Not a lot is needed- a swipe with a Q-tip and blow the loose/extra out of the way. Smoking the mold also helps, but a candle isn't the best for this as the paraffin/wax is known to have hydrocarbons in it (similar to oil) and that can lead to wrinked bullets. A better source of flame and smoke is a wooden match or a burning wooden splint. a butane lighter or other butane device is also good for this. Bullplate lube and Kroil are really good workers in molds. Pins that are sticky are sometimes dirty or have a bit of gummy buildup going on...same for the holes they mate with. A close inspection for this and a careful cleaning with a solvent such as acetone usually can get the crud out of the way, but sometimes a dental pick/probe can help with the removal especially at the base of a pin where it sits in the block...the joint is difficult to get into even with a fingernail. Blocks should open & close easily and bullets should come out of the cavities with a tap or two on the handles joint. If a lot of mold whacking is going on or having to pry/force the handles open, or closed is necessary, or if a lot of mold release or corrective measures are constantly necessary to have a smoothly functioning casting session then other problems may be there and require attention. Keep the handles hinge bolt lubricated. LLS

[high standard 40]

azrednek, mould release is just graphite spray lube, available at auto parts type stores (NAPA, Pep Boys, etc.) and some hardware stores. It's probably available at Home Depot or Lowe's as well...Ray

Not all graphite sprays are the same. Some have an oil carrier and some are described as "dry" which use an alcohol carrier which completely evaporates.
The oil base carriers can cause issues if used in a mold cavity. NAPA supllies a dry graphite spray. I have a can and use it on my ingot molds. I can get a part number for you if needed. Send me a PM.

[azrednek]

Thx everbody for your quick answers. I have a spray can of PB Dry Lube I should have thought about. If it doesn't work I'll head over to NAPA and try their spray graphite.

[WHITETAIL]

What I find best is to use a wooden match.
I feel that tha carbon from the wood is best.;)

[OLPDon]

I have been using Midway Drop Out for as long as I can remember on all my moulds close to 100 maybe over that number, and I have had great results. After cleaning/ degreasing I spray and then burnish, and that is it. My storage is in the house a spare room so it is somewhat a controled enviroment. I have yet to have any issues with the mould or the cast boolits.

I have not needed to redo any of the mould with the drop out spray. It just takes a thin film one quick spray but I spend time burnishing the mould. Must mention I take the mould apart and spray all surfaces.
Don

[Lead Fred]

I bought some Kroil, but have not had a need to use it.

Dang things fall out on their own

[runfiverun]

for the pin some anti-sieze will do just fine.
and the kroil oil does the trick in the cavaties,i am using a spray penetrating oil right now that works pretty dang good but it acts like i need to re-apply it every few hundred boolits.
you might just have a slight burr on the edges of the mold that needs to be cleaned up to let them go.
i hate mold release stuff. it's great to make cavaties or parts of them smaller but thats about all.

[leftiye]

I don't use it EVER. It ain't necessary to get good boolits, and it can and does cause undersized boolits. Deburr the edges of the cavity(ies) and lap the cavities a little for good dropping.