POLL!! What is your temp sweet spot?

[cheese1566]

For those of you with PID's and thermometers:

What is your ideal sweet spot in temperature for general casting?
(I know there are variables, debates, many discussions, yada, yada, yada...)

Feel free to list your temps below in a post with what type of mold you are using (I.E.: single/double/multiple cavities; iron, aluminum, brass)

[Willbird]

I just run my pot wide open, rcbs promelt.

[winelover]

Wide open for me too. I like icing(frosting) on my cake(boolits):bigsmyl2:

Winelover::cbpour:

[9.3X62AL]

Wide-open only for unalloyed lead, cooler for bi-metal and tri-metal alloys.

[Sprue]

I just keep mine adjusted for a good flow, usually decrease or lower the temp adjustment as the melt level decreases in the pot. Mainly, I just go by the indicators given of the melt, mold and boolits.

[powderburnerr]

I like to consern myself more to the mould temp rather than lead temp. if my mould is the right temp the bullets fall out on their own. if too cold or hot they are sticky ,I like to get the timing just right to keep the bullets falling free without having to tap anything........dean

[montana_charlie]

Obviously, you should have included an option called "Wide Open".
CM

[lead Foot]

For harder lead I have it wide open ~ softer lead I close it down a bit. I should be more scientiffic and get a thermometer.
Lead foot;

[GSM]

Whatever the mould needs to be happy.

[badgeredd]

Generally I run in the 750 range but the mold tells me if I need to go higher or lower. Obviously mold temp is influenced by tempo and melt temp so all are interconnected. I have a couple stubborn molds that won't cast decently if the melt isn't in the 800 range.

Edd

[Charlie Sometimes]

Last time I looked- it was around 750 to 800 for Lyman #2, lots cooler for muzzleloading projectiles.
I adjust temperature for mold fill, and if it frosts, who cares.

The dial thermometers don't give an accurate enough reading to be much good, but they get you in the ball park. The PID's, etc.- now THAT would be just the thing for getting consistent alloy blends, etc., and an accurate reading. Someday........

[lwknight]

I find that wit 20:1 or similar everything runs well as low as 620f and for 92-2-6 mix that 660 runs very well.
I'm against more than enough heat because it takes longer to solidify the sprue and it seems to slow down the whole process.
If the molds are really hot, you can frost the boolits at 650. To me the frosting is a sign that I can slow the cadence a bit if I want to.

[mooman76]

Right between 6 and 7!

[KYCaster]

Last time I looked- it was around 750 to 800 for Lyman #2, lots cooler for muzzleloading projectiles.
I adjust temperature for mold fill, and if it frosts, who cares.

The dial thermometers don't give an accurate enough reading to be much good, but they get you in the ball park. The PID's, etc.- now THAT would be just the thing for getting consistent alloy blends, etc., and an accurate reading. Someday........


Charlie, using a PID doesn't guarantee an accurate temp measurement. No matter what kind of equipment you use, unless it came with a calibration certificate or you have the means to calibrate it yourself, you have no way of knowing what it's error is, if any. If my Lyman thermometer says 750* and your PID says 825* we have no way of knowing which is correct.

The best we can do is find what works with our preferred method and then using the equipment we have available, try to duplicate that temp. If it works and your equipment is consistant then the absolute temp doesn't matter. As long as you can duplicate the conditions that work then life is good.

As others have said, I think mold temp is more critical than metal temp and you can compensate for variations in metal temp and keep your mold temp constant by adjusting casting tempo. The biggest advantage of the PID controllers is reducing the temp swing between the off-on cycles. With the bi-metal thermostats on our lead pots that can easily be +or- 25* or more.

With my 20# Lyman bottom pour pot, I find that any temp that prevents the spout from freezing is useable. As the pot empties the temp of the metal will increase and I have to slow my cadence to maintain a consistant mold temp. (Another advantage of the PID...proper placement of the thermocouple will keep the temp constant as the pot empties.)

So, with WW and 92-6-2 alloy, anything between ~650 and ~825 works OK. I prefer 725-775 with softer alloys needing more heat than the harder alloys.

Jerry

[chboats]

Most of the time between 750 and 775. Some moulds will not drop good boolits at less than 800-825. Some molds I go as low as 650-675. I try to keep the melt a low as possible to minimize lead vapors. Generally the softer the alloy the higher the temp.

Carl

[Charlie Sometimes]

Charlie, using a PID doesn't guarantee an accurate temp measurement. No matter what kind of equipment you use, unless it came with a calibration certificate or you have the means to calibrate it yourself, you have no way of knowing what it's error is, if any. If my Lyman thermometer says 750* and your PID says 825* we have no way of knowing which is correct.

The best we can do is find what works with our preferred method and then using the equipment we have available, try to duplicate that temp. If it works and your equipment is consistant then the absolute temp doesn't matter. As long as you can duplicate the conditions that work then life is good.

As others have said, I think mold temp is more critical than metal temp and you can compensate for variations in metal temp and keep your mold temp constant by adjusting casting tempo. The biggest advantage of the PID controllers is reducing the temp swing between the off-on cycles. With the bi-metal thermostats on our lead pots that can easily be +or- 25* or more.

With my 20# Lyman bottom pour pot, I find that any temp that prevents the spout from freezing is useable. As the pot empties the temp of the metal will increase and I have to slow my cadence to maintain a consistant mold temp. (Another advantage of the PID...proper placement of the thermocouple will keep the temp constant as the pot empties.)

So, with WW and 92-6-2 alloy, anything between ~650 and ~825 works OK. I prefer 725-775 with softer alloys needing more heat than the harder alloys.

Jerry

Yes, I agree, and stand corrected.
I mostly meant that it would be easier to maintain a steady and consistent temperature with that setup- I did not consider accuracy calibration.
I have a Lyman and a RCBS thermometer, and there is about 25 degrees difference between them, IIRC.
It all amounts to educated guess work anyway, when you don't know the exact alloy ingredients. :grin:
The electronics just takes up some of the slack in the guess work, I guess. :lol:

[Shiloh]

Depends.

My different molds have different sweet spots. Same with alloys.

Shiloh

[mpmarty]

Wow, two thermometers and they don't agree. Reminds me of the fellow with one watch. He knew what time it was. The fellow with two watches was never sure.

[BruceB]

My particular speedcasting method needs lots of heat, and I run my RCBS furnace at its maximum setting for all my uses....pure lead or wheelweights.

Never having felt the need of a thermometer, I took a reading with a borrowed one some years back. The pot runs at about 870 degrees.

KISS....thass me.

[Jim]

Wide open. It slows down the delivery time but I'm retired. Who cares?

[DLCTEX]

Aluminum moulds run hot. Iron ones don't require as much to maintain temp. Larger boolits take less heat than small ones. Each mould has it's temp at which the boolits drop freely. Then alloy comes into play. If I lose my log book I'm in trouble, and I couldn't find it last week.

[Gunlaker]

I just run my pot wide open, rcbs promelt.

Hi,

Have you ever checked the temperature? My RCBS Promelt will easily go over 900 degrees. At least that's what my thermometer tells me. Not sure how accurate the thermometer really is though I suppose :-P.

I try to keeo the pot @ about 825 degrees which seems to work reasonably OK for the 550 grainers I cast (20:1 alloy).

EDIT: my thermometer usually shows that the temerature is at least 25 to 50 degrees hotter than the dial on the pot. This doesn't mean much, but I thought I'd add it for interests sake :-)

thanks,

Chris.

[rhead]

Wide open.

I control by my casting tempo. It is different for each mold. I never bother to check the temp of the pot. If it is flowing freely it is hot enough. The dial will not get it too hot. Frosting is good. It gives more uniform lubing.

[Bret4207]

As many of the others have said, pot temp is relatively unimportant. Mould temp is the key.

[qajaq59]

I run 750 to 800 but that only works at the speed that I like to cast.

[tomf52]

Okay - What is a PID?

[johnvid]

I've had three casting sessions so far. It looks like the aluminum moulds like it hot. They ran best at about 790 to 800.

[cheese1566]

PID's are little electronic gadgets that get a lot of attention here because they have the ability to maintain a very accurate and constant temp on the lead.

Do a search for "PID".

There is an ongoing benefit by Lee W for very inexpensive PIDs at the moment!!!

I understand that there is no set temp for everything. Just trying to get an idea for myself and others of where to start. I only have a few years of experience in the lead department, so every day and session is a learning experience.

I don't have a thermometer and anxiously awaiting my PID's to come. They may not be the holy grail and ultimate solution, but I can see where they can help dissolve one variable in the casting procedure- and to show where the melt is at for note taking. Maybe I am wrong and wasting my money. But it seems a lot get excited when someone builds a PID unit.

[runfiverun]

i couldn't really vote as i use single cavity's in steel through 4 cav aluminum and steel.
but i usually start around 750 and either bump it up or down.
my last session was right about 715 with a 4 cav lyman.
left in the same spot that another 4 cav was last running at.
my saeco 2 cav does better at 750 and my rcbs 2 cav likes the same 715.
this is with my 40 lb magma pot.
a bit higher with the lee 20.
and full open with lino in the 10 lb pot with the rcbs 22 mold.

[buck1]

I feel all temps are are a big deal. I run my pots at about 730 ish. Then adjust my casting speed and process to that. It works for me. I try to not let the melt reach over 800 deg for vapor reasons. FWIW.....Buck

[fatelvis]

850*-875*. Frosting doesnt scare me!

[Willbird]

Hi,

Have you ever checked the temperature? My RCBS Promelt will easily go over 900 degrees. At least that's what my thermometer tells me. Not sure how accurate the thermometer really is though I suppose :-P.

I try to keeo the pot @ about 825 degrees which seems to work reasonably OK for the 550 grainers I cast (20:1 alloy).

EDIT: my thermometer usually shows that the temerature is at least 25 to 50 degrees hotter than the dial on the pot. This doesn't mean much, but I thought I'd add it for interests sake :-)

thanks,

Chris.

NO I have not checked the temp :-).

Bill

[snuffy]

This is my PID;

http://photos.imageevent.com/jptowns/bullets/websize/PB080103.JPG

In operation;

http://photos.imageevent.com/jptowns/bullets/websize/Picture%20115.jpg

A look inside, wiring front of SSR;

http://photos.imageevent.com/jptowns/bullets/websize/PB080102.JPG

As for temps, now that I can get an accurate reading from the PID, I'm starting to keep a log book of what temp works with which alloy I'm running with which mold.

I just bought a new RCBS thermometer. I stuck it in the pot last night while the the PID was holding 750 degrees. The RCBS was off by 15 degrees, low. Now some have said which is right?! I'll go with the PID reading from a thermocouple with a digital pick-up before I believe a bi-metal thermometer.

I was casting some 50 S&W 440 grain boolits. I had to lower the PID to 725 with WW equivalent alloy, had to dipper cast, the pro-20 wouldn't flow fast enough to keep the wrinkles away.

[miestro_jerry]

I agree with Jim.

Jerry

[AZ-Stew]

Hot enough to produce completely filled-out boolits, just shy of frosting.

Hotter, in my opinion, is a waste of heat.

Regards,

Stew

[Willbird]

Well many of us use extra heat as a buffer to be able to KEEP casting if we add metal that is not the same temp as what is in the pot. I do pre heat my metal going in to make sure no moisture is present, but I no longer premelt it in the winter time. None of my heat is "wasted" because I heat my work area with KW anyway :-).

[Johnw...ski]

I usually run right around 750.

[mnzrxer]

I usually run about 700°F on my Lyman dial thermometer. I don't have a hot plate at the moment to preheat my moulds, so I typically start out on the high side to get things rolling then turn the temp down to get into a good rhythm. On my Lee 20# pot I am almost always around 4 on the dial if the pot is half full or more.

I find all of my moulds (Lee 2 and 6 cavity AL, an iron RCBS 2 hole 150gr and an iron SAECO 2 hole 525gr) all work about the same, it just takes longer to heat up the iron moulds before getting good boolits.

[11b]

700 degrees in my Master caster, 230 grain round nose, Magma Mould. THE FIRST TIME I ever had the boolits FALL out of the moulds. I prepped the moulds with Kroil, Then casted about 10 or so, threw them back in the pot, and went to town casting 2700 in 4 hours.

[armyrat1970]

Aluminum moulds run hot. Iron ones don't require as much to maintain temp. Larger boolits take less heat than small ones. Each mould has it's temp at which the boolits drop freely. Then alloy comes into play. If I lose my log book I'm in trouble, and I couldn't find it last week.

+1. All I have are Lee and they like to run hot. The smaller the caliber the hotter they need to be. They have more meat around the cavity. Run my melt between 800 and 850 but even with a hot melt a cold mold will not drop good boolits. I don't mind frosting at all. I do mind the mold not filling out.
Want to try with a smaller caliber mold at a higher temp and a lower alloy temp. Need to get a hot plate though to keep my mold hot. Your casting routine of course makes a difference also. I like to drop about 50/60 boolits then take a smoke break and check them. Rejects and sprues go back into the pot. Wait for the mold and melt to heat back up and start casting again. Only cast with single and double cavity molds, so I may be a little slower in my production, but it works for me.

[Gerald C]

just got my mega pot done, put a pid controller on it, I then fired it up and check the pid reading to a certified temp gauge using a K type thermocouple, the pid was 48 deg to low!! then I got curious and fired up my old lyman pot that has a pid installed 10 years ago. It also was 52 deg. low!!! the pid has a off set setting and it is for the cold junction connection of the wires of the thermocouple and the meter, I'll readjust my new pot so it will read right.

Gerald C

[Lee W]

Saeco four cavity molds, all at 685F.

[gwilliams2]

Generally right around 750 with straight WW... Like several others have said I kind of adjust from there depending on what the mold likes...

[Doc Highwall]

I have been thinking about this poll after I voted 775-800 deg., that I wished that it included if it was a aluminum or steel mould and what your alloy was. I try to use a 30:1 alloy that generally takes a higher temperature. Temperature and alloy together I think would have made the poll even more useful. It would not take into account the variable of the mould material aluminum, brass, steel or an even bigger issue of how the mould is vented.

[lwknight]

I was using about 660 for everything till I got my 125 grain 9mm mold in yesterday. Found out that I had to run about 710 just to keep the mold hot enough with hardball alloy.
Also when casting some 40:1 alloy for the 38-55 I had to run about 760 degrees to get good boolits.
Alloy does matter a lot. When using a 250 grain 44 cal 6 banger Aluminum mold with hardball alloy I can cast at 600 degrees very well and its faster that way cause everything stays slightly cooler and sets up faster.