Casting Problems(?) w/a 225415

[klausg]

Hey gang-
I just got a Lyman 225415 and had to play with it this weekend. No major problems, just wondering is there a secret to casting these little-bitty bullets? I had a higher than my "normal" reject rate. With my 'best' mold, 358477, other than the 1st half dozen or so when the mold is cold, I generally managed to reject less than 1%, with the little .22's I was rejecting around 20%. those were all incomplete fill out. So my questions are:

a) Are there any "tricks of the trade" when it comes to casting little-bitty bullets? Or do I deal with a 20% reject rate?

b) The other thing that I'm wondering is, gas check or no, how are those two little grooves going to carry enough lube to let me push that thing around 1800-2000 fps, (IIRC Lyman has them stepping right around 2k from a .222)?

Thanks in advance for any input you guys have for the rookie, take care

-SSG Klaus

[454PB]

I cast the RCBS 55 gr. GC design and usually use straight linotype. With the small cavities in a big block, I use a propane torch to maintain block temperature. My reject percentage is low, but these little boolits require careful inspection. I used these in a Thompson Contender .222 Rem. barrel with excellent results and no leading with velocities up to 2500 fps.

[35remington]

I agree with the previous post; if you're not using linotype, you should switch to that alloy. That helps fillout of those itty bitty bands.

Yes, it has enough lube capacity (the 225415). I've also shot them at high velocities with good results.

You might want to experiment with how you fill the mould - pressure pour vs. letting it dribble out of the pot, etc. - to see what difference this may make. Also check the venting of the mould (is it adequate, can it be improved?). Maintain a relatively high amount of lead in the pot to keep the "head" pressure up - say, not less than half full, for instance. Check weigh and inspect the bullets from your various techniques and choose the most consistent method.

I cast my .22's on hot days in the summertime, which helps keep the mould block temperature up. Run the temperature on the pot to the high end also. I cast quickly to keep the mould hot.

[klausg]

Thanks guys, okay got to find some lino as I was casting straight WW. Is there any problem w/ shooting straight WW in a .222, (I'd really rather not scrap the ones that "made the grade")?

[Dye]

klausg
If you would like I will cast you some out of lino to try.I is getting up to 100 ambient temp now,just the right temp to cast 22's. I had a car in my house last Friday morning and I am busy this week getting things done from his visit.
I can do them next week.Do you have enough gas checks? Try the ones from ww and see what happens.

Be carefull Dye

[klausg]

Dye-thanks for the offer brother, I'm in no flaming rush on the .222. It's a Savage 24 .222/20 ga that I picked up on gunbroker, and I am in the process of refinishing the stock, (it has surprisingly pretty wood, except for the @#%&*! pressed checkering), so it'll be quite awhile before it's ready to shoot. A buddy of mine up here in AK has a line on some lino, maybe. So, in short, thanks a mint, but I'll have to decline at this time. Thanks again, take care!

-SSG Klaus

[JeffinNZ]

Klausg: I have a 225415 and cast well with it in either No. 2 alloy or linotype. Mainly use No. 2 alloy and have found that 'force' feeding the mould can help. When I used the bottom pour pot I held the mould against the spout so the full weight of the lead in the pot was forcing into the cavity. With the ladle I use it FULL and again keep the nozzle against the sprue plate.

I regularly shoot these bullets at 2000fps in my .223 and YES, they hold enough lube.

[454PB]

Good ideas. I think even adding another 1 or 2% tin to your wheelweights would help.