Help me slug my barrel

[DeadWood]

Going to attempt this in the morning. Weapon is a Win. 94AE .30WCF.
I plan on using an egg shaped fishing sinker .375 O.D.
Using Bore Lube(use it on patches in muzzle loader)

Plan of attack?
1)Run bore snake saturated with breakfree through barrell to clean and lube
2)lube up sinker and gently tap into the barrell at muzzle end
3)push sinker down through barrell using 1/4' rod (electrical tape wrapped around every 6" to prevent scratching inside)until sinker pushes out throat.

Sound Right??

nervous as heck on this

[Wayne Smith]

Only thing to be nervous about is your rod - make sure it's well covered if it is steel. If it is a multiple piece cleaning rod DON'T use it! Get a solid rod.

[Tom308]

I purchased dowel (sp) rods in the sizes needed and used a hollow lead sinker. I dropped the sinker into the chamber and used the dowel rod to push it through. It helped to lube the barrel lightly first. I've slugged two .308s a .22 hornet and a .223 rem barrel. Also a .44 mag, .444 marlin and a .45-70. I used a 3/8 rod on the .44 and .45. Don't remember what I used on the others. I may have used a cleaning rod on the .22. Not sure now. I bought the sinkers at a fishing supply counter.
Hope this helps a little.
Tom

[462]

DeadWood,

If possible, use a brass rod rather than one of steel. If using a taped-covered steel rod, make sure the tape sections aren't so fat that they won't enter the barrel. Go slow. Be careful. You'll do it.

[Bulltipper]

I always try to run the slug from the breech end, And the brass rod is the way to go, they have brass dowel material at Home Depot or Lowes...

[JSnover]

I do not enjoy pounding away at a long thin rod, no matter what it's made of. They flex way too much. They also break way to easy if you really whack them. Get a 1/4" hardwood dowel, cut it into 4 or 6 inch sections, tap as many into the barrel as you need. The short pieces are a lot stiffer and won't mar your bore.

[Echo]

I just don't like the idea of using wood dowel stock for pounding into a rifle barrel (don't ask why). Use the steel, or brass, rod, suitably wrapped in several places to prevent metal-on-metal contact within the barrel, and be particularly attentive to tapping squarely so as not to introduce a bending moment to the rod. Take it easy, and you will end up being proud of yourself.

[ole 5 hole group]

I'm with JSnover - a short (6") piece of hardwood dowel will not breakup nor mar the barrel - try it, you'll never go back to steel.

[mroliver77]

All I ever use is steel. No barrel damage here. I wonder, do use guys use a wood cleaning rod also? I would size that sinker closer to bore diameter before starting. I dont bothe slugging 30-30 anymore unless there seems to be a problem. I size to .310 and it works.
Jay

[ole 5 hole group]

All I ever use is steel. No barrel damage here. I wonder, do use guys use a wood cleaning rod also? I would size that sinker closer to bore diameter before starting. I dont bothe slugging 30-30 anymore unless there seems to be a problem. I size to .310 and it works.
Jay

Ya, now that you mentioned it - used a 2 piece wooden cleaning rod for a shotgun my dad had from the '30's - worked great and my brother still uses that bad boy. Use a Dewey now but slugging barrels with a short hardwood dowel rod works as well as a steel/brass rod - I usually carry a couple in my shooting bag in case anyone needs one for a squib load - been used once in the past three years and was worth it's weight in gold at the time.:grin:

[JSnover]

I have a couple of very old wooden cleaning rods but I don't use them. I use a coated steel rod, but I also don't hit it with a hammer. A long thin metal rod can and eventually will bend and or upset after enough blows. You'll want to cover the entire length so the side of the rod doesn't ding the lands or muzzle when you strike it. A long thin wooden rod can snap and splinter, creating a pretty significant hazard for the guy working the hammer. Short wooden rods stacked in the barrel are safer and easier to work with.

[MtGun44]

We have had people here on this board with a fractured wooden dowel jammed
irremovably in their barrel. The were asking how to get the pieces out, driving with steel
just jammed the pieces tighter, apparently the dowel sheared on a long angle forming wedges
that jammed tighter as you tried to drive either direction. VERY ugly.

I use 1/4" steel rod with some tape and jammed into a 25 ACP case which positively
guides the bottom (leading end) in brass. 25 ACP case stays permanently on my
rod.

Bill

[454PB]

Amen, MtGun44.

I like a brass rod with a dull cone shape on the boolit end to help keep it centered.

[geargnasher]

Amen, MtGun44.

I like a brass rod with a dull cone shape on the boolit end to help keep it centered.

Keeps it centered AND properly expanded. I use brass under .30 cal and for .30 and up I use short hardwood dowell sections which have been tested BEFORE driving in the barrel to prevent the aforementioned diagonal shearing. The grain of the dowell can be checked by using a dark wood stain.

Check this out: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ErFaJlUVs1Y, there are a couple of minor things I would suggest doing differently (like get a REAL micrometer, not a caliper for measuring slugs), but overall a great overall picture of how easy it really is.

Gear