Settings on Lee Pro 4-20

[philthephlier]

Using steel molds & casting Lyman #2 Alloy with a full pot what should the approx. setting be on the pot. I must have it set too high between 7-8 because the bullets drop nice & shiny from the mold and then frost right over. I know the rheostat on the pot isn't designed for a trip to the space station but once a good setting is achieved is it reasonably repeatable? And what would a good start point be to set it at? 5-6, 6-7? Thanks in advance for any input.

[high standard 40]

A lot of variable here. Speed of casting, temperature of the mold, size of the bullet, etc all of which can determine the setting needed. When I cast a 7mm 145 gr I set mine at about 5.5-6 and cast fairly rapidly. And pots can vary from one to the next also. Experiment with the settings and your pace, use a good thermometer, and find what works best for you. A little frosting won't hurt anything. A well filled out bullet and consistent results should be the goal.

[mooman76]

I usually start a little hot anyway. That helps bring the mould up to a proper even temp. I usually start around 7 or 7.5 and as it shows signs of being too hot I gradually drop it down to around 6.5 - 6. The more pure the lead is the more heat you need and can get away with. I also add lead as I go so a little higher temp helps keed it going good without getting too cold.

[timkelley]

I use straight ww and like to cast a little hot, 7.5 > 8 is where I cast (Lee 6 bangers).

[mpmarty]

I plug it in and set it to maximum to heat up. After it is pouring good I cut it back to 3 or 4 and watch the thermometer, cranking back up when necessary. I usually wind up around 5 or 6.[smilie=p:

[kelbro]

Around 6 on mine works well with #2 and steel molds.

[knifemaker]

I have the same pot. I start up around 7-8 and when the wheel weight mix gets molten, I cut back to 6 on the dial. this keeps the molten mix at around 750 degrees according to my thermometer. If left at 7 it will creep up to 850 degrees.

[RobS]

As mentioned there are variables and with that I preheat my molds on a hot plate and then set my pot at 6 for about 30 minutes. I start casting from there and later end up at 4-5 towards the upper middle part of the pot. This is the same for all molds and WW alloy. It will simply be a learning curve and what works for your style of casting.

[Recluse]

I plug it in and set it to maximum to heat up. After it is pouring good I cut it back to 3 or 4 and watch the thermometer, cranking back up when necessary. I usually wind up around 5 or 6.[smilie=p:

I do the exact same thing.

However, for a few moulds, I like casting really hot--at the 800 - 900F range, so I'll keep the setting up towards "8."

My thermometer always tells me what I need to know.

:coffee:

[XWrench3]

actually, i run mine between 4 and 5 AFTER everything is up to temp. with my pot, that keeps the melt AROUND 750 degrees (at least according to my thermometer). with my set up, below 700, the flow stops flowing (bottom pour) (i dont know if this is normal, or if my thermometer is off). which for the way i cast is about right. i hope this helps.

[Rockchucker]

actually, i run mine between 4 and 5 AFTER everything is up to temp. with my pot, that keeps the melt AROUND 750 degrees (at least according to my thermometer). with my set up, below 700, the flow stops flowing (bottom pour) (i dont know if this is normal, or if my thermometer is off). which for the way i cast is about right. i hope this helps.

My pot seems to work alot like yours does. Max up to temp, then down to around 4 and that keeps my melt around 725/750.

[Shiloh]

I start hot. I have an extra ingot that is saved to cool the melt after molds are up to temp.

The numbers in the rheostat are a scale only!! Every pot is a bit different as well as the alloys used. Keep note for where you're molds particular sweet spot is.

SHiloh

[cajun shooter]

The Lee pot has more than one problem with it but the rheostat is one that is a pain at times. I like many others started with the Lee 10 pot and then moved on to the 20. I had three of them before buying my RCBS Pro Melt. One of my Lee's would do well while set at 7 but if the level dropped past a certain spot it would jump to 850 degrees. It and the drip are on going problems that would fill a 1000 page book. Read all the answers you get if doing a search on the Lee pot. You will only be problem free when you have another pot. The old Lyman is also a good buy. I set my RCBS at 750 and cast problem free all day.

[Recluse]

I had three of them before buying my RCBS Pro Melt. You will only be problem free when you have another pot. The old Lyman is also a good buy. I set my RCBS at 750 and cast problem free all day.

I agree that the RCBS Pro Melt is a superior pot, but I also agree that you can buy three/sometimes FOUR (and occasionally FIVE) Lee pots for what you pay for one RCBS pot.

In those terms, the RCBS is grossly overpriced.

I have a Pro Melt and a Lee Pro IV-20. In terms of quality construction between the two, there is no comparison--the RCBS is much more solid, better built. It damned well better be for how much more it cost.

Funny thing is, it (Pro Melt) leaks too. . .

I've rarely ever seen a picture that anyone has posted of their Pro Melt that didn't have an ingot mould sitting underneath the spout. :) That just comes with bottom pour furnaces.

:coffee:

[Gunslinger1911]

I just have to play around with temps for new (different) molds. The Lee 6 bangers seem to like 750 - 800 deg for my casting style. Steel 2 bangers like 700 - 750, although I have a 2 cav mold for the 500 that likes it hot.

I have the Lee 10#, prob. 20 yrs old - yea consistant temp is a problem.

When I get into the groove I run 2 Lee six bangers and the .500 steel 2 cav. Start with everything hot and the pot set at max and when the pot hits 775 start casting, with 3 molds running, by the time the pot hits 800 it's time to put in a one lb ingot. this takes the pot down to 750 and I can keep casting.
The pot "buzes" slightly when the coils are heating - last week I cast for 2 hours and the pot was buzzing the whole time !

[snuffy]

Well, the lee pro 4 20 furnace is now on sale at midway, $57.99. Midway says it's normally $64.99.

As for the numbers under the knob, they're for reference only. As shown by this thread, people are getting different temps at different numbers.

Something I noticed as soon as I got a Lyman thermometer, the lower the lead gets in the pot, the higher the temp gets! That's because of the remote sensor for the thermostat doesn't sense the pot or the lead, it simply reads the temp of the air in the tower! It's aided by the two screws that help support the pot in the back, they help transfer the heat into the tower.

It made me madder than ---- so I built the PID controller for mine. NOW the temp stays the same all the way to the bottom! My thermocouple reads through the bottom. directly into the lead.

[philthephlier]

Well, the lee pro 4 20 furnace is now on sale at midway, $57.99. Midway says it's normally $64.99.

As for the numbers under the knob, they're for reference only. As shown by this thread, people are getting different temps at different numbers.

Something I noticed as soon as I got a Lyman thermometer, the lower the lead gets in the pot, the higher the temp gets! That's because of the remote sensor for the thermostat doesn't sense the pot or the lead, it simply reads the temp of the air in the tower! It's aided by the two screws that help support the pot in the back, they help transfer the heat into the tower.

It made me madder than ---- so I built the PID controller for mine. NOW the temp stays the same all the way to the bottom! My thermocouple reads through the bottom. directly into the lead.

Can you tell us how to do that?

[snuffy]

Phil, it's all pretty much explained on this thread;

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?t=49410&highlight=pid

Wheeler started a thread here on cast boolits, asking for help in wiring a different PID than what Horeseman used from Auber. Here's mine, not finished yet, but I'll get a-roundtoit one of these days.

http://photos.imageevent.com/jptowns/bullets/websize/PB080103.JPG

http://photos.imageevent.com/jptowns/bullets/websize/PB080102.JPG

It's NOT cheap, but it sure works great. It's a real grin to see it pulsing the heating element on and off the control the temp.

[lwknight]

I just took my Lee 4-40 cover off and looked inside. That bi-metal control elly is a thermostsat.
A rather poor one at that but, non the less a Tstat. It works passively, muuching heat off the part of the heating element that is not around the pot. There is no way that actual pot temperature can influeane this Tstat. Its gust a guestimater and will vary greatly accouring to your casting and ingot adding speed and to the level of alloy in the pot.

Thats why a minimal of a casting thermometer is a must. Personally I usethe PID Temp controller too.

Snuffy, I can't tell from the picture but , I hope that you have incoorperated an external SSR or contactor. Mine would not carry the pot load like it was rated to do. It got hot and started stinking before I rewired for external relay.

[johnlaw484]

Yeah 6 or 6 1/2 seems to work best for me casting a 230 grn 6 banger.

[vacek]

I am wondering..... if I take a separate rheostat and plug the Lee into to rheostat, turn the Lee on full boat and control with the Rheostat. Any comments?

[snuffy]

Snuffy, I can't tell from the picture but , I hope that you have incorporated an external SSR or contactor. Mine would not carry the pot load like it was rated to do. It got hot and started stinking before I rewired for external relay.

Here's the heat sink, it seldom even gets warm. The SSR, a 40 amp, is inside with the white heat paste between it and the box, also on the heat sink. 7 amps is all mine pulls, so the 40 amp SSR is vastly overrated.

http://photos.imageevent.com/jptowns/bullets/websize/PB080108.JPG

The SSR is what the pic in my FIRST post shows, looking over the top back of the PID.

[TAWILDCATT]

I did not want to spend as much as the pot cost so I got the hebor freight speed control.$19.99.its a voltage control.I use the lyman therm. to check temp and adjust the speed control the pot is set all the way on.it seem to do very well.
:coffee: