Where to start ??

[TraderVic]

Good day to you all,

This is my first post here and I'm interested in learning about casting my own bullets. About five or so years ago I inherited casting equipment ; a lead furnace, about two galvanized steel buckets of wheel weight material reconfigured into peanut butter cup sized weights for storage, multiple moulds for .357mag/38 Spl......and other odds and ends.

I'd like to cast bullets for the .357, also acquire moulds for 30-30, and possibly cast Maxiballs for my 54 cal GPR - for starters.

Where should I start ? I'm totally open for comments and suggestions. I'm starting from scratch ( knowledge wise... ).

Regards, Vic

[Mk42gunner]

Welcome Vic,

Since you have molds for the .357, I would start with it. Read the stickies at the toop of the sections on this board, and maybe pick up a copt of Lyman's Cast Bullet Manual; it has a lot of good info.

Remember this is not rocket science; if you have a question, ask.

Robert

[geargnasher]

Welcome to the forum! I would like to second Gunner's advice, especiall about picking up the Lyman book. It is full of good advice for the beginner. Plus it has a pile of cast-only load data for many popular calibers. This site is in my experience the best resource for advanced casting/loading anywhere, as well as for answering basic questions and troubleshooting for beginners.

Take some time to look at the stickies on smelting to make ingots, casting tools and methods, boolit lube and sizing tools/methods, loading techniques, etc.

It's almost all here.

You can use the search function, too, I'll bet that 95% of the questions you may have have been addressed here before.

Gear

[TraderVic]

I also inherited the Lyman "Cast Bullet Book" as well and am reading it. I've read different parts of it over these five years. My understanding of wheel weight materials is that they're harder than lead and lead casting materials, so I wouldn't really want to use these bullets for hunting applications - just targets, etc.

A question about molds ( moulds - ? ).........Are aluminum blocks more or less desirable than steel blocks ? Are some mold handles better/worse than others ? Where do you guys typically cast your bullets.......outside, garage......?

Regards, Vic

[Czech_too]

There's no reason why you can't use the wheel weights. Their probably the #1 source of lead used in casting. If you want, you can add say some lead free solder, tin or pure lead to the melt to make a softer or harder cast.

My 'impression' is that the aluminum moulds heat up faster but don't have the longevity of a steel mould.

I cast outside, covered patio, and do it on a day with some wind and try to be upwind of the fumes.

[Echo]

Welcome to the Forum, TV. You have the beginnings (or, unlikely, all) of what you need to cast boolits and shoot them. +1 for the above. What molds do you have? Lyman, Lee, RCBS, or Other?
And there is no reason not to use WW's for hunting...

[markinalpine]

Here's a good into series written by an experienced gunsmith and reloader.

Casting bullets and selecting fire extinguishers Part I
By Joseph D'Alessandro Editor | RealGuns.Com
http://www.realguns.com/archives/055.htm

Welcome to the madhouse :bigsmyl2:

Mark :mrgreen:

[Down South]

Welcome to the forum. What I would recommend is a lot of reading here on the forum. Use the search feature to look up topics.
What you have acquired so far is good. The WW material you have should make nice hunting boolits.
You will need to figure out if the boolits need to be sized (Most Do). For that you will need to slug the revolver throats and barrel then check the as cast diameter of the boolits. You can read a lot about boolit fit in your searches. I think the most important part of casting is boolit fit.
For this a good micrometer is needed. Some use a set of dial calipers.

If you need a sizer, there are several options depending on how much you want to spend. The Lee push through sizers are the cheapest route but you will either have to pan or tumble lube. The top of the line lube/sizer IMHO would be the Star. It sizes and lubes at the same time. Then there are the RCBS and Lyman lube/sizers. They are less costly than the Star but lube and size at the same time too. All of the above mentioned sizers work well including the Lee. You will need the correct dies for the lube/sizers. This will be determined from the measurements obtained slugging the cylinder throats and barrel. The Lee push through sizers are ordered by size. The lube/sizers use dies that can be ordered separately.

You will need lube. What kind depends on several things. If you plan to tumble lube then Lee Liquid Alox would be what you might want to use. Some here use Johnsons Paste Wax for tumble lubing. If you want to pan lube many of the stick lubes work well. The old NRA 50/50 does good.
If you plan on using a lube/sizer there are a variety of good stick lubes out there. I mostly use Lar45’s LsStuff. Bullshop has an excellent lube too. There are links at the bottom of the page to both their sites.

You mentioned a lead furnace. Is it a bottom pour? If not you need a good casting ladle. Rotometals sells them at the top of the page.

I don’t know what the other odds & ends that you mentioned are so you may already have some of these items.

Happy Casting, I’m sure that you will get a lot more input but with what you already have and the things that I’ve listed, you should have enough to make boolits.

[TraderVic]

The furnace I have is a LEE Pro-4-20. Among the things I need to learn about are - lubricating bullets and using gas checks. I'll check and see what moulds I have. I will need to slug the barrels of my GP-160 and my Marlin 30-30 CB.

Regards, Vic

[MtGun44]

Read the sticky on revolver accy in the handgun section to help you decide
what diameter you want to size to for your .38/.357 boolits.

Welcome to the site. :-)

Bill

[montana_charlie]

I inherited a lead furnace, about two galvanized steel buckets of wheel weight material reconfigured into peanut butter cup sized weights for storage, multiple moulds for .357mag/38 Spl......and other odds and ends.
Before you feel that you are fully equipped, you will probably acquire a number of things you don't currently have. But you have enough to start.

Where should I start ?
Start by picking a place that you feel is safe to be messing with molten metal. Set a sturdy table or bench there, place the lead furnace on it and melt a potful of your ingots.

You probably have enough sense to do this with a fair amount of regard for the dangers involved. But, if you feel the need to ask if it's okay to cast bullets in sandals...or shorts...or while drinking...you should probably explore a different hobby.

Rest one of your moulds on the edge of the pot while it is getting hot enough to melt lead.
When the metal is liquid, pour some of it into the mould you heated up.

Wait about 15 seconds, then turn the sprue plate off to the left. Open the mould and see what falls out. If you touch that first one (I did) you will only make that mistake once.
Then cast some more.

After you have made a couple dozen, turn off the furnace and let everything cool down.

Examine the bullets you made, taking note of anything that is different from the inside surface of the cavity they were cast in. All of those 'differences' can be considered as 'imperfections'...and different actions can eliminate different types.

You now have enough experience to ask questions...

CM

[largom]

I would suggest that you get a thermometer that can read to at least 800-900 Deg. Many casters do not use one but I don't like to guess at what my alloy temp. is. I would start off casting at 700-750 Deg. F.

Don't worry if your first boolits are not perfect, they won't be. As Montana Charlie said just cast up a bunch and inspect them for questions to ask. Cast up a big bunch, you can always remelt them and cast again. The last boolits cast will look and be better than the first.

When those pretty boolits start falling from your mold and you get a big smile on your face, be aware that the first symptons of "casters addiction" are starting.

Welcome Aboard, Larry