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alamogunr
05-17-2006, 01:07 AM
I have finished my combination wood shop-reloading-gun room. One thing (among many) that I need is a bench grinder. Several articles I have read recommend a
1800 rpm grinder as opposed to a 3450 rpm unit. I can only get one and will use it as a general purpose grinder for both woodworking and gun applications. I am leaning toward the 1800 rpm unit since I think it would be more forgiving in most things that I would use it for. Any thoughts?
John
"alamogunr"

Frank46
05-17-2006, 03:44 AM
you can very creative when making bench grinders. The baldor line comes to mind, but can be very pricey. At present my motor came of an ancient table saw. Has two outboard shafts. Top speed id approx 3600rpm. You can comfortably run a 6" wheel on it with no problems. Since it is 3/4hp I can go up to maybe an 8" wheel and still be safe. If you get lucky and find a 1hp swimming pool motor you could esaily run a 8" wheel on it. Just make sure the wiring is set up for 220 as they sometimes have a link that you swap back and forth to get the motor to run on either 115/220 volts. I have used fan motore that came out of large office fans.They normally turn out 1750 rpm and will drive a 6" wheel very nicely. Sears still sells the arbors that fasten to the shaft of the motor. So look around and maybe you'll find the motor you want. None of mine cost me anything in terms of parts or materials. Hope this helps, Frank

Char-Gar
05-17-2006, 10:46 AM
I use a Jet 1 hp, 3450 rpm, 8 inch. I keep a medium wheel on one side and a fine wire wheel on the other. Works fine for me and not very expensive.

If I had real money I would buy a belt grinder like the Square Wheel or Burr King. But not having that kind of money, the Jet does just fine.

I have not found the need for a coarse wheel in gun work. I have no need to hog off metal fast..medium or fine workes for me.

I also have a Jet 17" floor model drill press...plenty good for gun work!

Blueknight2520
05-19-2006, 05:59 PM
I have finished my combination wood shop-reloading-gun room. One thing (among many) that I need is a bench grinder. Several articles I have read recommend a
1800 rpm grinder as opposed to a 3450 rpm unit. I can only get one and will use it as a general purpose grinder for both woodworking and gun applications. I am leaning toward the 1800 rpm unit since I think it would be more forgiving in most things that I would use it for. Any thoughts?
John
"alamogunr"
Alamogunr
IMHO: You are leaning in the right direction./ the 1800 rpm grinders are less likely to burn a tool or a part ( burn = over heating the metal and rurning the timper.) I run a medium grit gray wheel for general grinding and a cool running fine white wheel made to cut hi speed and tool steel these sharpen tools and work great on gun parts also. The 1800 might take a tiny bit more time to get a job don’t but its more likely to come out nice with a slower speed imho.

The main reason to run a 3400+ rpm grinder is if you have need to really remove metal quickly or hog odd heavy welds etc. I have a baldor 3 phase 8” Grinder and when i have need to grind something heavy it’s the ticket. But when i do gun work or sharpening a tool I run a smaller grinder less horsepower at 1800rpm with a nice white wheel on 1 end and a solid buffing wheel with white rouge on the other. Witch I use to put that final edge on a sharp edged tool (take that feather edge off).

I hope you don’t mind me making a couple suggestions.

have you considered getting a grinder with a extended bell and shaft on 1 end made to hold a buffing wheel. Although you can put a buffing wheel on a normal grinder it does not leave you much room to polish a long part like a barrel or bolt etc.

This is a little off topic and not strictly a grinder but.
If you have not already considered it you might consider a small to medum combo belt sander and disk sander. I picked up a 1”x 42 and 6” disk delta brand a few years back. Man this thing is extremely versatile. Can change grip belts quickly and easly. The delta’s run about $100.00 USD. I wonted larger but this is what I could afford and I sure don’t regret it.

I hope i was not to long winded. :)

BK

Bret4207
05-19-2006, 07:14 PM
I have a variety of grinders, both belt and stone. If I could only have one I'd go with an 8" 3600 model from Sears or Lowes/Home Depot/TSC. Yeah, an 1800 rpm grinder is nice ,but they are hard to find and more $$$ when you do. Every wood magazine out there tells you you have to get the latest whiz bang grinder or you'll surely ruin all your fine tools. It's the operator, not the machine that burns the tool. A light hand and a cooling can makes all the difference. You'll finish the tools on a stone or paper or a waterstone anyway. Plus, with a 3600 machine you can do some real buffing. An 1800 rpm machine takes a lot longer to do that. Extended mandrels are nice if you can find them. Invest in the Lee Valley tools catalog and maybe Len Lees Sharpening book. Lots good info you never heard of in there.

alamogunr
05-19-2006, 08:33 PM
Thanks for the feedback on the grinder. I will evaluate the opinions and make a decision in the near future. Right now I'm in the process of building a reloading bench for one end of the shop and a workbench for the opposite end. Both will have shelves above and storage below. Someday, I plan to build drawers for the underside of each bench. Some of you very handy folks should consider posting pictures of your workspaces. I'm always open to ideas and usually can find something to use or modify for my use. I'm sure others here are the same.
John
"alamogunr"

Slowpoke
05-19-2006, 08:59 PM
Thanks for the feedback on the grinder. I will evaluate the opinions and make a decision in the near future. Right now I'm in the process of building a reloading bench for one end of the shop and a workbench for the opposite end. Both will have shelves above and storage below. Someday, I plan to build drawers for the underside of each bench. Some of you very handy folks should consider posting pictures of your workspaces. I'm always open to ideas and usually can find something to use or modify for my use. I'm sure others here are the same.
John
"alamogunr"

Anymore I feel the only place for a storage shelve is in a close closet or a pantry

Do yourself and your possessions a favor and go ahead and make cabinets, they don't have to be fancy to be functional.

good luck

floodgate
05-19-2006, 10:40 PM
"Anymore I feel the only place for a storage shelve is in a close closet or a pantry

Do yourself and your possessions a favor and go ahead and make cabinets, they don't have to be fancy to be functional."

Actually, some of the MDF / Melamine cabinetry you can get at Home Depot, etc, even cheaper than you can buy the materials, and the "butcher-block" tops that the same stores sell, can be used to make up some fine shop cabinetry. You can block them up to a better working height. (I've done this, and sawed off shop stool legs to get things "just right".) About the only point for open shelves is for the top shelf, where the ram sleeve of a press like the RCBS "Rockchunker" hangs down and would prevent the top drawer opening. You can get pretty "creative" with this stuff, and get a nice-looking shop that is easy to clean up and store stuff safely away (but DON'T look at mine!).

floodgate

versifier
05-19-2006, 11:53 PM
It's the operator, not the machine that burns the tool. A light hand and a cooling can makes all the difference..... Invest in the Lee Valley tools catalog and maybe Len Lees Sharpening book. Lots good info you never heard of in there.

I run a variable speed for the best of both worlds. For really fine sharpening of wood lathe chisels I use a felt wheel and green compound.

alamogunr
05-20-2006, 10:40 AM
Actually, some of the MDF / Melamine cabinetry you can get at Home Depot, etc, even cheaper than you can buy the materials, and the "butcher-block" tops that the same stores sell, can be used to make up some fine shop cabinetry.

floodgate

Mentioned the bench I was building. I got the idea from a plan in a 1977 issue of Handloader(forget which one). Instead of plywood for the top, I am using a material called "lebonite", a very dense particle board that I got from the company I retired from. It was used as structural insulation in large power transformers. The material I have is 16" wide X 8' long and 2.25" thick. One piece of this stuff weighs 143 lbs, calculated based on density of .0415 #/cu in. It is every bit that heavy. You can drill & tap holes in it. I had to horse it around to get it up on horses to rip it lengthwise. It took 4 passes to cut all the way thru. I ripped the one piece because I didn't want to have a 32" deep bench to collect junk at the back. I'll probably top it off with Masonite so there won't be a seam in the middle to collect whatever.

John
"alamogunr"

44man
06-26-2006, 08:59 AM
Go to www.woodcraft.com. They have fantastic grinders. One is 3/4 horse at 1725 and they have a two speed 1/2 horse. Both are 8" grinders. They run $95 t0 $120.

felix
06-26-2006, 09:21 AM
Tell me your wishes and I will have Baldor make it for you. Infinitely variable speed? Dual speed? Shaft size? Torque at what RPM? Cost will be about half of retail. ... felix

Bret4207
06-27-2006, 09:05 AM
44 Man and Uncle Felix- Stop it, stop it, stop it! You guys come up with nifty websites and offers for just the "right "tool from Baldor.... well dang it, I got no money left to spend on more toys!!! I keep telling you guys it makes the wife and kids nervous when I sit at the computer with tears in my eyes, blubbering on about missed chances and the unfairness of it all!

Thanks for the Woodcraft link, I forgot they were around. Felix, are you working for Baldor?

felix
06-27-2006, 09:23 AM
Bret, I medically retired from there in 2001. I still get the employee discounts, and for some things, they are substantial, but not others. It just depends on stock status, and predicted demand, which both vary daily. Custom stuff is done daily and charges are very reasonable. I will be happy to help anyone on our board get what they want for a price that won't be repeated. ... felix

45 2.1
06-27-2006, 09:30 AM
Bret, I medically retired from there in 2001. I still get the employee discounts, and for some things, they are substantial, but not others. It just depends on stock status, and predicted demand, which both vary daily. Custom stuff is done daily and charges are very reasonable. I will be happy to help anyone on our board get what they want for a price that won't be repeated. ... felix

Felix-
What is available in the 1/4 to 1/3 HP range in a gear head motor. Something about 400 RPM for a large home built tumbler.

felix
06-27-2006, 10:28 AM
Here you go, Bob! My friend from Breeze will be coming down here in a month, so I can have this motor shipped to you via him. ... felix

http://www.baldor.com/products/detail.asp?1=1&page=1&catalogonly=1&catalog=GLP3338&product=Gear+Products&family=AC+Gear+Motors%7Cvw%5FGearProducts%5FACGear Motors&rpm=250%2B

45 2.1
06-27-2006, 10:56 AM
Here you go, Bob! My friend from Breeze will be coming down here in a month, so I can have this motor shipped to you via him. ... felix

http://www.baldor.com/products/detail.asp?1=1&page=1&catalogonly=1&catalog=GLP3338&product=Gear+Products&family=AC+Gear+Motors%7Cvw%5FGearProducts%5FACGear Motors&rpm=250%2B

That gave me a real case of "Sticker Shock"!!!!!!!!!!!! I guess my other Baldor motors are worth more than I thought. Does this thing run on standard current? In realistic terms, what is the "out the door" price?

felix
06-27-2006, 11:03 AM
Assume around 50 percent off. ... felix

standard 110 volts at 7 amps