Looking for suggestions w/ 9MM gas check

[azrednek]

I recently acquired a RCBS 82062 mould. It is a 9MM, 124gr, RN that uses a gas check. I don't want to open up the do/don't need a gas check debate. I have an old Walther P-38 with a couple of pits in the barrel and my son has a Chinese 9MM that has a dark bore. I also have a Taurus 92 with a good bore and I hope to add a Taurus Slim to my collection soon.

With my S&W Brazilian 45's with rough bores, gas checked loads really improved the shot to shot accuracy. Thought I'd give 9MM gas checked boolits a chance and see if the improvement is worth the extra expense and time. Most of what I've read here and elsewhere. Haven't seen anybody praising the gas checked 9's.

Nice thing about buying bullet moulds. Not hard to recover a good portion of the investment if it doesn't work out. Often with some used moulds, Lee especially. One can sell it used for more than the cost of new on Ebay.

I have Bullseye, Unique, Herco, Clays, HS-6 and HP-38 to work with. Most often I cast with 50/50 stickys and clip-ons with no or very little tin. Just enough if needed to get a smooth flow and good fill out. I'm equipped to size 355, 56, 57 and 58. I've had best results with plain base sizing 357. Most my 9MM brass is range pick-ups. My small pistol primers are a hodge-podge of various brands. Currently I'll take what ever brand I can get. My gas checks are Gator brand and I still have a few (very few) old Lymans in a Herters box and a hundred or so of Hornady. I live in Phoenix so I prefer hard lubes needing heat to install or Lee Tumble Lube. It is not unusual here in Phx to shoot when temperatures exceed 100 degrees.

I prefer to keep my loads on the mild side as 99% will be going through paper. With my and a shooting friend's P-38's they get a little stubborn and unreliable with mild to medium loads. Any suggestions or sharing your experience, good or bad with gas checked 9's will certainly be appreciated.

[cptkeybrd]

AZRed
I just acquired that mold today, it casts great and takes the hornady gas check great too. I know this is an old post but was wondering if you kept the mold and liked using it.

[bobthenailer]

Ive used the RCBS 124gr rngc in the 9mm & 38 super with good results but i rairly shoot GC bullets as my bores are in good shape.
try a TC nose profile with a weight of at least 125 gr, use med fast to med burning speed powders for the absulate best accuracy , fast powders will work but not quite as accurate in my guns
Quit using mixed headstamp brass! the case varations are just too much and more so in the 9mm as everyone in the world is making them ,use only one brand or a specific brand decated only to each gun for best accuracy!

[cptkeybrd]

Thanks, good info. It's a great mold makes nice boolits. I have a wolf 9mm barrel
For my glock 23, I'll cast em hard and see how they do. I always separate my brass. Thanks

[Wally]

I recently acquired a RCBS 82062 mould. It is a 9MM, 124gr, RN that uses a gas check. I don't want to open up the do/don't need a gas check debate. I have an old Walther P-38 with a couple of pits in the barrel and my son has a Chinese 9MM that has a dark bore. I also have a Taurus 92 with a good bore and I hope to add a Taurus Slim to my collection soon.

With my S&W Brazilian 45's with rough bores, gas checked loads really improved the shot to shot accuracy. Thought I'd give 9MM gas checked boolits a chance and see if the improvement is worth the extra expense and time. Most of what I've read here and elsewhere. Haven't seen anybody praising the gas checked 9's.

Nice thing about buying bullet moulds. Not hard to recover a good portion of the investment if it doesn't work out. Often with some used moulds, Lee especially. One can sell it used for more than the cost of new on Ebay.

I have Bullseye, Unique, Herco, Clays, HS-6 and HP-38 to work with. Most often I cast with 50/50 stickys and clip-ons with no or very little tin. Just enough if needed to get a smooth flow and good fill out. I'm equipped to size 355, 56, 57 and 58. I've had best results with plain base sizing 357. Most my 9MM brass is range pick-ups. My small pistol primers are a hodge-podge of various brands. Currently I'll take what ever brand I can get. My gas checks are Gator brand and I still have a few (very few) old Lymans in a Herters box and a hundred or so of Hornady. I live in Phoenix so I prefer hard lubes needing heat to install or Lee Tumble Lube. It is not unusual here in Phx to shoot when temperatures exceed 100 degrees.

I prefer to keep my loads on the mild side as 99% will be going through paper. With my and a shooting friend's P-38's they get a little stubborn and unreliable with mild to medium loads. Any suggestions or sharing your experience, good or bad with gas checked 9's will certainly be appreciated.

I have that mold and a Taurus 99AF...I make my own GC's with a Freechex tool so I don't have to worry about the expense of GC's with it. The Taurus leads up very badly with any PB bullets. The 82062 works superbly in the .357 Magnum and in my 1894C( Single loaded) ...you can load 'em HOT and not worry about leading up a barrel. It casts out at .358" with WW metal. One fine bullet mold IMHO.

[azrednek]

I found the gas checks were a big help in making my P-38 with a less than perfect bore shoot as well as jacketed. Friend of mine with a WW2 surplus pistol that name and model escaspe me had similar results. Another plus with it, sized to .358. It shoots well in 38/357 loads in my Rossi lever action rifle.

As far as shooting the gas checked boolit in modern 9MM's with good bores. The gas check is really unnecessary and not needed.

[cptkeybrd]

I'm really glad I got the mold off eBay. It completes my rcbs collection, I have all four 9mm molds now. I would appreciate some info on the free chex tool and your method.
Thanks guys