Best lead remover?

[DevilDog83]

Please save me the time and expense of trying everything out there, what seems to be the best product for quick and easy lead cleaning in low velocity revolver loads?

[Maven]

Please save me the time and expense of trying everything out there, what seems to be the best product for quick and easy lead cleaning in low velocity revolver loads?

Copper "Chore Boy" aka "Chore Girl" scrubbing pads found in your supermarket. Cut one apart and wrap it around an undersized and worn out bore brush (trial & error here), then have at the Pb fouling. You can use it as is or with Ed's Red, Kroil, or WD-40 on it. Works like a charm, is inexpensive and requires no special equipment. And it's 100% effective.

[Wally]

I use a jag tip with a cloth patch---I cut a small piece of aluminum flyscreen and push it down the barrel with a cleaning rod...I use this w/o any bore cleaners. Under the right conditions , one can see the lead particles flake off. This works similiar to a Lewis Lead remover.


I have not had much luck with the Chore Boy method...but it seems many others have.

[beagle]

My best remover is bronze wool wrapped around a bore brush dipped in Ed's Red. Scrubs it right out./beagle

[DevilDog83]

Thanks for info so far, I do appreciate the help. As a new member to this forum, I must say it is OUTSTANDING

[Wally]

I might add---I find it best to clean out the lead after so many shots so that it doesn't build
up---by doing is, it is a quick pass or two of the aluminum patch..takes just seconds.

Some brave souls advocate using "0000" steel wool; that I've never done.

I have a Ruger .356 SS Blackhawk that is the worst leader that I own. It is very accurate..I push an aluminum patch through the bore, a few times, after every 24~48 shots...I know it sounds like a pain--but in reality it is just a very minor nusiance IMHO.

[zomby woof]

Copper "Chore Boy" aka "Chore Girl" scrubbing pads found in your supermarket. Cut one apart and wrap it around an undersized and worn out bore brush (trial & error here), then have at the Pb fouling. You can use it as is or with Ed's Red, Kroil, or WD-40 on it. Works like a charm, is inexpensive and requires no special equipment. And it's 100% effective.

+1
Quick, easy, and cheap. The only way to go. A pad will last a long time.

[Shuz]

I remove light leading by simply firing a few(5) gas checked boolits with a moderate charge of 2400.

[Bret4207]

4/0 steel wool and a solvent of any kind-ATF, Hoppes, Break Free, whatever. I picked that idea up from the schuetzen crowd. I kinda doubt they'd use anything that would harm a world class barrel.

[azrednek]

Copper "Chore Boy" aka "Chore Girl" scrubbing pads found in your supermarket.

After reading it here I've been using the Chore boys since. Another tip I picked up here about the Chore Boys. Especially if you're a cheapskate like me. Sure enough, I used a refrigerator magnet to discover the cheapie pads are not copper. The copper colored cheapie pads I saved a lousy 50 or so cents on, are attracted to magnets.

[DevilDog83]

Another general thanks to all for the advice. Looking forward to getting some guns dirty on Thursday, then trying your advice. Going to try out my new .41 SS project loads. If anyone is interested, I'll post my findings for loads velocity/group sizes ect.

[ghh3rd]

http://www.big45metalcleaner.com/
Works great for me, even without any solvents.

Randy

[Three44s]

I was at Wally world last night and saw a Scotch brite copper chore boy version.

In the fine print: "Copper coated steel pad" ............ YUK!!!

At least they admit it on the package.

The best method of lead removal entails NOT LEADING in the first place ......that is figuring out how to shoot cast without leading .......

........ and the second best way to remove lead is to use a true copper scrubbing pad over a worn or undersized bore brush.

Three 44s

[geargnasher]

4/0 steel wool and a solvent of any kind-ATF, Hoppes, Break Free, whatever. I picked that idea up from the schuetzen crowd. I kinda doubt they'd use anything that would harm a world class barrel.

+1 on that, Bret. I still use the chore boy pad too sometimes, but the steel wool just seems to work better, especially on trailing-edge lead in deep rifling. Plus, I can use steel wool with copper solvent to decontaminate copper-fouled bores much faster. I figure if anything the steel wool would help polish burrs a bit, but I can't tell it has any effect at all on barrel metal. If I ruin one I'll be sure and sound the trumpet.

Gear

[303Guy]

Steel wool is not going to ruin a bore. What it will do is polish the steel eventually, then the leading might cease anyway. Copper Chore Boy might clean the lead out just fine but it won't polish the bore - unless it happens to come with an abrasive detergent on it like some steel wools one can buy.

[tactikel]

Think of preventing leading in the first place. Clean your bore until it is spotless, then clean it again. I then soak a patch in Kroil and bathe the bore, let is sit several days, and swab again. After this I have only the slightest bit of leading. One pass with a brass bristle brush dipped in Hoppes #9 and it was gone. Kroil is amazing.

[Recluse]

4/0 steel wool and a solvent of any kind-ATF, Hoppes, Break Free, whatever. I picked that idea up from the schuetzen crowd. I kinda doubt they'd use anything that would harm a world class barrel.

+1.

I made a batch of cleaner the other night using acetone, ATF and MMO in a 50%/25%/25% solution. It did superb on the gunpowder and fouling residue, but I was pleasantly surprised how easily it worked in combination with the 0000 steel wool to get rid of all lead quickly and easily in one of my wheel guns that has a tendency towards leading after three to four hundred rounds run through it.

:coffee:

[303Guy]

What is MMO? ATF and acetone makes sense. Both seem to get in anywhere!

[Recluse]

What is MMO? ATF and acetone makes sense. Both seem to get in anywhere!

Marvel Mystery Oil.

I think it has a kerosene base in it, which would explain some of its solvent capabilities.

Had to keep shaking the jar that I mixed it all in--you could see the components trying to separate. After about an hour, it turned the color of Pepto Bismal pink. Guess that was the acetone's doing.

Worked very well, though. Didn't do any damage to my blue gun whatsoever, but sure cleaned it up nice.

:coffee:

[Gunslinger]

I've been using white scotch brite in the lack of something better. AS USUAL I can't get any good stuff in this country. When I phone the hardware stores and ask for bronze or copper wool they say "uuuuhhhhhh uuuuuhhhhhhh", as if I was a complete moron!! Unbelievable!!

I know a guy in the automobil business, he uses it to polish headers etc. He might be able to get me some... I hope so!

I can only get 000 steel wool? Is that way more abrasive as the 0000 kind?? Could the 3x0 be used to clean barrels?

[lead_her_fly]

The absolute best thing to get lead out is 50/50 Hydrogen Peroxide/White Vinegar.

Now, it has some drawbacks when trying to use it in long guns. You have to plug the barrel, pour it in, and wait a couple of minutes. NO LONGER! Swab it out and you are done, period.

Drawbacks are, don't get it on the finish or the wood, and you have to clean very well and oil profusely afterwards or you will get rust and pitting.

Hope this helps. I'm with the "prevention" side on this though. Proper size, lube, hardness and you can greatly reduce any leading problem from arising.

[Bret4207]

I've been using white scotch brite in the lack of something better. AS USUAL I can't get any good stuff in this country. When I phone the hardware stores and ask for bronze or copper wool they say "uuuuhhhhhh uuuuuhhhhhhh", as if I was a complete moron!! Unbelievable!!

I know a guy in the automobil business, he uses it to polish headers etc. He might be able to get me some... I hope so!

I can only get 000 steel wool? Is that way more abrasive as the 0000 kind?? Could the 3x0 be used to clean barrels?

It's a coarser grade. I don;t think it would harm a barrel, but you could try a scratch test. Go to a spot hidden by wood and lightly scrub the barrel. If it marks the bluing then you'll know it's a bit more abrasive than 4/0. If it's all I could get I'd judt use less of it and go till the lead was out and no more. With 4/0 you could scrub all day and not hurt anything. 3/0 being a bit coarser will take longer to dull. It's the sharp edges that clean the lead, once it's dull it stops cutting.

[Gunslinger]

It's a coarser grade. I don;t think it would harm a barrel, but you could try a scratch test. Go to a spot hidden by wood and lightly scrub the barrel. If it marks the bluing then you'll know it's a bit more abrasive than 4/0. If it's all I could get I'd judt use less of it and go till the lead was out and no more. With 4/0 you could scrub all day and not hurt anything. 3/0 being a bit coarser will take longer to dull. It's the sharp edges that clean the lead, once it's dull it stops cutting.

Okay, I think I'll give it a try. There is one problem though, I don't own any blued firearms, only stainless ones :?:

If I try this and clean the lead out, will I be able to se in the barrel if it is scratched or otherwise damaged by the 3x0? I only have a leading problem in my 9mm. It's a Witness Elite with a polygonal rifling. I've used white scotch brite till now, but I can't really get ALL the lead out. Some is still there... so I fear that when I try new loads/hardnesses I don't really get a true idea of it, due to some lead still being in the barrel?!

[I Haines]

Haven't used it for years now but I remember a treated cloth, may have been called "Lead Away" that was amazing. Did a great job removing lead from the bore as well as fouling on the front of a stainless revolver cylinder. IH

[Dframe]

Lewis Lead Remover. Nothing on earth faster or better.

[sargenv]

For the ultimate in lazy, I still prefer the Outers Foul out soluton. Copper and Lead removed while you wait.

[DUSTYSHARPS]

Barrel leading can come from different things, rough bore, hard alloys, high velocity, poor lube. Try changing the load one thing at a time till the leading goes away. Usually the loads are too hot, or the lead is too hard.

[Recluse]

I've been using white scotch brite in the lack of something better. AS USUAL I can't get any good stuff in this country. When I phone the hardware stores and ask for bronze or copper wool they say "uuuuhhhhhh uuuuuhhhhhhh", as if I was a complete moron!! Unbelievable!!

PM me with a mailing/shipping address and I'll drop a little care package in the mail your way containing plenty of 0000 steel wool and copper Chore Boys.

It'll be my treat.

:coffee:

[Don McDowell]

Please save me the time and expense of trying everything out there, what seems to be the best product for quick and easy lead cleaning in low velocity revolver loads?

Cotton patch soaked with pure gum spirits of turpentine, pushed thru the bore with a jag tipped cleaning rod.

[Dframe]

Use caution with those copper choreboys. Some are copper plated steel. ONLY use those which are 100% copper.

[Bret4207]

Okay, I think I'll give it a try. There is one problem though, I don't own any blued firearms, only stainless ones :?:

If I try this and clean the lead out, will I be able to se in the barrel if it is scratched or otherwise damaged by the 3x0? I only have a leading problem in my 9mm. It's a Witness Elite with a polygonal rifling. I've used white scotch brite till now, but I can't really get ALL the lead out. Some is still there... so I fear that when I try new loads/hardnesses I don't really get a true idea of it, due to some lead still being in the barrel?!

I'd take Recluse up on his offer and have him mail you some. As for the 3/0 I suppose it depends on the exact stuff you can get, it might be harder on your barrel than our stateside stuff. If it's run of the mill 3/0 I'd still try it on a hidden part of the barrel. If you feel it cutting the metal just stop and forget it. All the stateside 4/0 will do is get the lead, nothing more unless you get completely ridiculous with it.

[Gunslinger]

Recluse:
WOW, thank you... that is truly a generous offer. Folks like you makes this forum THE best forum I have ever been a member of (and that's a few) :drinks:. But I actually succeeded in solving the problem myself.


Bret4207:
Thanks for the advise! I went to town today on the look out for the soft steel wool. At hardware store number 3 I got lucky. They only had a package of 0, 00 and 000 - 7 ounces of each... So I recon I now have enough steel wool to last me a lifetime, and for different applications. I removed my barrel and tried scratching it underneath with the 000. No matter how much pressure I applied I was unable to produce even the tiniest scratch. So I wrapped some around and old brush, oiled the barrel and ran the brush through it 10 times. I don't think my barrel has ever been this clean in the 3 years I've been shooting lead from this gun :). It is SO easy to get all the lead out...

[That'll Do]

I've tried multiple methods to remove leading, and the best method I've found so far is to soak the barrel or cylinder with Hoppes No. 9 for about 20 minutes, then use a piece of Chore Boy copper pads wrapped around an old bore brush.

It removes all the lead with relatively little effort. It works even better than my Lewis Lead Remover Kit, or chemical lead removers.

http://www.itsalldirect2u.com/ProductImages/42315-large.gif

[DevilDog83]

Thanks for the picture of "Chore Boy"

[wallenba]

Opting for mechanical over chemical, I think investing in the Lewis lead remover has served me well. The only drawback is that the tool is not long enough for my Contenders.

[keeber]

Lead Remover? Give me an address and tell me where it is... and its as good as gone ! :) All kidding aside, I use Outers.

[JudgeBAC]

To find chore boy try this website

http://www.choreboyscrubbers.com/where.htm

[DevilDog83]

Thanks for the link Judge

[Shiloh]

I've been using white scotch brite in the lack of something better. AS USUAL I can't get any good stuff in this country. When I phone the hardware stores and ask for bronze or copper wool they say "uuuuhhhhhh uuuuuhhhhhhh", as if I was a complete moron!! Unbelievable!!

I know a guy in the automobil business, he uses it to polish headers etc. He might be able to get me some... I hope so!

I can only get 000 steel wool? Is that way more abrasive as the 0000 kind?? Could the 3x0 be used to clean barrels?

000 is still pretty fine. Don't think it would hurt, but it's not my barrel.

Shiloh

[bootsnthejeep]

Another vote for Big 45 Frontier Metal Cleaner.

I know, in my head, for a fact, that it CAN'T be as special as they let on it is. But for a $5 package that lasts me all year? I don't care, I'll drink the koolaid.

St. Skeeter told me about it. He hasn't lead me astray yet.

Also Ed's Red (the ATF, MEK, mineral spirits (and acetone? I can never remember all the ingredients) recipe).

After a long range session with some un-named bulk manufacture lead bullets (silver bullets my BUTT) that I was probably trying to push a tad too fast, considering bevel bases and no gas checks, after about 200 rounds groups that weren't that tight to begin with were becoming gatherings and then into patterns. Dunked the whole cylinder in the Ed's Red jug while I prepped the barrel with Ed's and prepared the metal cleaner on the jag. Four scrubs. Clean as a whistle. Cylinders are always a bit more of a pain, but also nicely taken care of quickly.

I also have the Birchwood Casey lead removal cloth. Works great for the cylinder face. Never used it in the bore tho.

[DevilDog83]

With all this great info, can't wait 'till Thursday to go out with my new girlfriend and dirty up as many bores as we can, then test all these new ideas on cleaning, many thanks to all

[lwknight]

[smilie=p:Oh, well.. I guess I can add another one.
Mineral Spirits and Baby oil mixed about 50/50
I bet all the baby oil does is to make the mineral spirits smell better.