View Full Version : Yikes... smiall hairline crack in my Lyman 45

05-11-2006, 09:17 PM
I heard it go "pop' and then some lube started oozing out of thin hairline crack in my 50yr old Lyman 45 lube/sizer.

Right between the sizer hold the the resiviour cavity.

I am looking for tips on how to "fix" this.

I have a Map gas torch and some brazing rods. I am thinking if I cutting/grinding a small channel where the crack is and braze it, I should be good to go. I don't think silver solder is going to do much good.

Or, would I have to find someone to weld it? Welding cast iron is not my idea of a good side project.

Ideas? Comments? Suggestions?

05-11-2006, 11:22 PM
I'd be inclined to find a good welder and have him repair it. You'll want to clamp it down BEFORE you take it to him, so he doesn't well inside where you don't want it welded. I'd check prices on a used replacement first, so you'll know if you're better off just buying a used replacement. Sometimes it's cheaper to replace an old tool than try to repair it and depending on the type of weld, sometimes it's expensive.



05-12-2006, 12:23 AM
If you have some experience with brazing, go for it. I did a lot of casting repairs during my career, and if you asked me to fix it, I'd do exactly what you have in mind. Make sure all the rubber and bullet lube is thoroughly cleaned out. As soon as it gets hot, you are going to see bullet lube bleeding through that crack.

If it doesn't work, what are you out? You will still have to buy a replacement.

05-12-2006, 01:29 AM
Yeah, I think brazing is the way to go...

Gonna practice on a couple of peices first, then go for the "big job".

I am going to have to be careful around where the bushing sits....

I'll post my results later...

05-12-2006, 02:24 AM
Cast iron is not at all flexible. If the top surface 'moved' enough for you to see a crack, you can bet the fracture goes all the way through.

I have a feeling that brazing the top is just a temporary solution...

05-12-2006, 07:20 AM
You aren't going to be able to get it hot enough to have a good brazing job with Mapp gas. That lube is going to botch things up and if it cools too fast you may get more cracks. Either take it to a good welder or call Lyman and see if there's a waranty. You never know, they might help you out . If no joy there, hit the gun shows, Ebay, Auction Arms. Heck, check Midway and the other outfits and see what a new goes for. Or go with the Lee system.

05-12-2006, 08:53 AM
I wonder about boiling it clean, and trying to put a patch of Acragel over the crack. You could basicaly coat the body.
Might work?

05-12-2006, 09:02 AM
JB weild maybe, stuff works pretty good to plug up things

05-12-2006, 10:34 AM
I was actually going to try JB Weld first... I know of folks who have fixed cracked lawnmower parts with it.

JB Weld first, then braze if things go wrong. Then hit ebay...

05-13-2006, 07:40 PM
I have been successfilly welding cast iron for 40 years. Using a torch with enough heatto heat the whole area around the break to red hot, quickly weld the crack, which has been v'd with a grinder, then reheat to red hot, cover with a pot, or substitute, and allow to cool slowly. It needs to cool slowly and uniformly to prevent cracking due to different rates of cooling on areas of the metal. I heated exhaust manifolds by heating in a gas forge, and allowing to cool in the forge with the lid closed.

05-13-2006, 09:13 PM
I welded up a big long crack in cast iron last week with my MIG- mild steel wire and argon/C02 mix.

Welded up pretty as you please, then ground her flush... :drinks:

05-18-2006, 08:33 PM
Clean it and degrese it and grind a trough over the crack. Then braze it up. I had one done in 1976 and it is still working.

05-18-2006, 09:38 PM
I could weld it fer ya but yer probably not in my neighborhood and it would probably be the end of the month before I could even sit down and look at it. Heat her up cherry red, weld it and slowly cool it. Not rocket scinece, just takes patience.

Lloyd Smale
05-19-2006, 05:54 AM
Ive done some cast welding myself by heating it and welding with both stick and mig. Problem is that it usually wont hold up if its a stress area. My suggestion is to box it up and send it to lyman and they will probably send you a new one. DO NOT CALL THEM FIRST! IF you do you will get a runaround like youve never had before and they will probably charge you. Ive sent a few unannounced packages to them and they been good about replaceing them. I think what it is is they either have to replace it or pay to ship yours back anyway so its just as easy to replace it.

Four Fingers of Death
05-20-2006, 11:26 AM
Confusus say woman aviatrix who fly upside down, liable to have C....... up.

Seriously, the guys are on the right track here. cast is a bit tricky to weld, but the heating is essential. What i do with all cracks is drill through just at the end of the crack. This will stop any further cracking in future. Smallest drill possible is what I'd use, just at the very end of the crack. I welded up a cast iron mower base and it continued to crack a couple years later. An old welder told e this trick and I have never had any problem since.

tom barthel
05-20-2006, 12:23 PM
I'm a hard head. I would try to fix it. It's broken. YOU can't break it. You have nothing to lose. You may even gain experience.

Good luck.

05-20-2006, 11:49 PM
DEVERS454, If you decide to weld it, preheat is a must. If stick welding use a nickel electrode. If you have access to TIG equipment you can use a stainless steel wire. The stainless has nickel in it. Nickel is the ticket to a succesful weld...Ray