First time casting - need some input.

[Paulinski]

Well I jumped with both feet this afternoon and the results are a bit dismal.

I'm using Lee 20# pot with brownells thermometer - BRCS ladle and mountain mold 695 grain mold.

I was casting anywhere from 620 to 650 - 670. All boolits come out as the one pictured and this was the best from the batch.

I noticed that the RCBS ladle has a bit too small opening to pour so I was pouring right from the ladle side.

I'm using Bull Plate lube so what em I doing wrong.

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e193/Dragnaath/DSCN1725.jpg
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e193/Dragnaath/DSCN1727.jpg
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e193/Dragnaath/DSCN1728.jpg
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e193/Dragnaath/DSCN1729.jpg

Thanks in advance.

Paul

[dromia]

Looks like you've got some oil/lube in the cavities, could be over application of Bullplate, or the mould wasn't cleaned to start with. Photgraphs 1, 3 and 4.

Pic 2 looks like too cold a mould/alloy.

How many did you cast before you stopped?

[Paulinski]

I casted about 50 or so. I was experimenting with different temps.

How do I get the oil out of the cavities.

The pictures depict the same bullet.

[JSnover]

Scrub the mold with a toothbrush and spray it with carb cleaner. When you're sure it's clean and dry, try casting again. You may need a litle more heat. My Mountain Mold 500 grain boolits fill better at 700

[largom]

Mold and melt not hot enough for starters. You did not state your alloy but I would raise the melt temp. to at least 700 Deg. and dip a corner of your mold into the melt for about 30 seconds.
Larry

[canyon-ghost]

What went wrong, hmmm... Well, you're way cold as Largom said. You can degrease a mold with a bore brush (bronze, a large shotgun brush is great) and solvent like Hoppes #9. To remove the solvent or oils, dry with rubbing alcohol, just pour the cheap stuff over it.
When you cast, get the pot really warmed up for say, 20 minutes. Not so hot as to show blue or yellow tints but pretty hot. When you cast, pour the first dozen or so just to heat the mold, throw 'em away in the sprue pile! Try pouring, hesitate about a minute for the lead to solidify, then drop them. Close the mold as quickly as possible to hold in heat.
If the mold doesn't seem to be heating fast enough, pour a little faster, hesitate a little longer. It has a certain rhythm of it's own.
By the same turn of the coin, you can cool a mold by holding it open for 30 seconds or so each time you drop the bullets.
Ron

[dromia]

The pictures depict the same bullet.


Thats obvious but the photgraphs indicate cavity pollutions and too cold a mould/melt just trying to show you the differences.

50 casts won't burn out a contaminated cavity, especially at a coolish casting temp. Thats why I asked.

To clean a mould I usually boil it for 10 minutes or so with a drop or twa of detergent in the water.

Degreasers such as Brake cleaner, acetone, Isoprpyll alchol, methelayted spirits, orange oil etc. all work as well.

[Paulinski]

Thanks for info everybody. I'm going to degrease the mold and up the temp to 700 and see what happens.

[dromia]

Thanks for info everybody. I'm going to degrease the mold and up the temp to 700 and see what happens.


Be sure and let us know how you get on, your not far off having a fine looking boolit there mate. :D

[gon2shoot]

Looks like you've been given some good advice, a clean mold does wonders for your casting, on the other hand I wish mine looked that good somtimes. [smilie=b:

[dromia]

Looks like you've been given some good advice, a clean mold does wonders for your casting, on the other hand I wish mine looked that good somtimes. [smilie=b:


How do you think I have an opinion on this? :D

Because I've been there too often myself, I've loaded and shot a lot worse than those I have to confess.

Sometimes "good enough" just isn't. :cry:

[Tazman1602]

Who's mold are you using man? Like the other guys said looks like theres some contaminants if the cav's but it could also be too cold, that's why the squigleys. Try casting one right after the other making sure you get a good fill but make sure that mold is clean clean clean first.

And have patience, ya' gotta throw some culls before you get those nice perfect bullets these guys here get. Just keep at it and you'll do fine.

Art

[mooman76]

Yes definately turn up the heat. if you still don't get good results at 700 just keep turning it up until you do or untill the bullets turn out worse. At some point you will get the hang of it and you'll be moving faster and may need to turn the heat down some. It's a fluid operation with constant changes.

[Paulinski]

I tried again. Upped the temp to 700 but the results are the same.

I'll try decreasing the mold next.

[Tazman1602]

I tried again. Upped the temp to 700 but the results are the same.

I'll try decreasing the mold next.

Keep casting and change one thing at a time man and clean that mold too. Sooner or later you'll get it.

[arcticbreeze]

Also as a side note I feel the hole on the RCBS ladle to small also. I drilled mine out with a 3/16" drill bit. As others have said looks like the mold not clean. I have found that even after scrubbing it sometimes when you warm it up more oils from machining or even the bullplate excrete from the pores in the metal. I spray again with brake cleaner after the mold is warm. I store my molds oiled to prevent corrosion so I have those results every time if I don't clean it well enough.

Good Luck and don't give up!!
Marc

[mooman76]

Decreasing the temp will not help. You get frosting when it is too hot and you are showing no signs of frosting. Up the temp. You being new, you may just not be moving fast enough. If you move too slow your mould is cooling down so you can either move faster or up the temp some more. If you are looking your bullets over each time they drop your mould is cooling. Don't worry about how the bullets look at first, just keep dropping them and they will get better with time. Also are you preheating the mould? It will get you good bulets faster if preheated and just because your thermometer says 700 doesn't mean it is. Some are off abit. Hang in there, it takes practice like anything else.

[jtaylor1960]

If you've cleaned the mold thoroughly.I would say first you need more heat.I see no frosting so as said above your not too hot.Why do you say your ladle is too small?If you put the hole in the ladle tight to the sprue plate when pouring you can create some pressure that will help with filling out the cavities.Another thing that may be that problem if you have enough heat is venting or not enough of it.Thats a big bullet it my need some tweaking on the venting to get it to work.

[243winxb]

Run pot at maximum temerature. Make sure the ladle is super hot also. You many not be able to fill the mould fast enough. With bottom pour pots, try dropping the alloy from an inch or so above the mould. Or the mould tight to the bottom pour, like pressure injection. Watch out for splashing. Loose the bull plate. Degrease mould with 91% Isopropyl Alcohol.

[Recluse]

When all other "cleaning" of a mould fails me, as far as contamination goes, I resort to either one of two things:

1. Pouring 91% isopryl alcohol generously over the mould cavities AND the vent lines, and/or

2. Holding the mould itself in the melt for fifteen to twenty seconds.

I'm not real crazy about #2, but sometimes it seems to be the only way to cook off any remaining contaminants. Definitely a last resort for me.

In addition, the bigger and longer the boolit, the faster you need to get that hot alloy in the cavity. Quite honestly, I think 700F is way, way too cool for that boolit. Me? I'd start at 800F, with a ladle, pouring literally as fast as I smoothly could into the cavity. Give the alloy a generous amount of time after the sprue has "cooled" before whacking the sprue and opening the mould.

:coffee:

[243winxb]

2. Holding the mould itself in the melt for fifteen to twenty seconds. Not recommended for Iron Moulds. Can cause mould to warp.

[ghh3rd]

Whenever I have used a ladle, I've let it float on top of the melt between casts. That way it won't cool down and cause what you dip into it to cool down at all either.

I've seen lots of posts with 'first' boolits that look like that, and then beautiful boolits in another post.

Have fun - Randy

[Paulinski]

I tried some more last night. This one was done at about 720 deg or so.

Anything higher and the were frosting.

The good news is they drop at .503. Dan sure makes nice molds.

Now the pics

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e193/Dragnaath/DSCN1738.jpg

Still not perfect but I think its looks a bit better that first tries.

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e193/Dragnaath/DSCN1737.jpg

Why the distorted top?

Thanks everyone.

Pauli

[Recluse]

Not recommended for Iron Moulds. Can cause mould to warp.

Some discussion of that issue here:

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?t=53102&highlight=BruceB

:coffee:

[mooman76]

Good deal! We told you you'd get it. A little forsting doesn't hurt none. I'd rather have frosted bullets that fil out than nice shinny ones that don't.

I also can't see a steel mould warping by trying to heat it in lead melt. The temp is not that extreem and it is filled with the hot lead anyway. People pre heat them with torches and hot plates and all kinds of more extreem methods with no problems. I would think a aluminum mould would warp before a steel one but that's just my opinion. I don't use steel as much as lead.

[JSnover]

I wouldn't dip a cold mold into a molten pot. I use a strip of scrap metal to help rest the mold over the pot so the blocks are directly above the melt. By the time my spout is hot enough to get a good stream, the mold is plenty warm enough to dip into the lead. Doesn't matter what they're made of, you won't warp them.

[runfiverun]

looks like you are getting some inclusins in you ladle now.
the distorted top could be in the mold.

[jtaylor1960]

I'm not sure about the end there but that bullet looks way better than before.I think your getting good useable bullets now.Like the others said a little frosting is good.I like to see my bullets just when the bright shine goes away and you see a dull frosting.This all takes some practice.Your headed in the right direction.

[Paulinski]

Thanks guys. I'm going to cast a few more tomorrow and post pics.

Is it normal to have specs of lead left in the cavities? I just examined the mold and noticed some specs of hardened lead in the cavities.

[Tazman1602]

Thanks guys. I'm going to cast a few more tomorrow and post pics.

Is it normal to have specs of lead left in the cavities? I just examined the mold and noticed some specs of hardened lead in the cavities.

I just brush 'em out gently with a tootbrush P. Now take a look at the first bullets you cast and this bunch -- MUCH improved. It just takes some work to get your technique down. Before long you'll be throwing perfect bullets..........and that last ones you posted don't look half bad.

What are you shooting these pumpkins through anyway?

Art

[armyrat1970]

Thanks guys. I'm going to cast a few more tomorrow and post pics.

Is it normal to have specs of lead left in the cavities? I just examined the mold and noticed some specs of hardened lead in the cavities.

No. Clean the specs of lead out. Check the top and bottom of the sprue plate and see if you have any shavings in the sprue hole from the milling process. This may be causing the scrapes. That boolit looks much better than the first. You're on your way.

[Paulinski]

I just brush 'em out gently with a tootbrush P. Now take a look at the first bullets you cast and this bunch -- MUCH improved. It just takes some work to get your technique down. Before long you'll be throwing perfect bullets..........and that last ones you posted don't look half bad.

What are you shooting these pumpkins through anyway?

Art

Those are 695grain .500 S&W boolits. Actually this is the reason I got into casting now I'm going to cast for other calibers 9mm / .40 / .44 / .45 and .303

[243winxb]

Is it normal to have specs of lead left in the cavities? I feel its not normal.If the specks are melted into the cavity, then let you bullet cool more before opening the mould.
Why the distorted top? The distorted top might be caused by not letting the bullet cool enough, this might be also causing the specks. The sprue plate may need adjustment? Iron Mold Warping -No dipping an iron mould into the pot, this warning is in a few mold makers instructions. Do as you like, your mould.[smilie=l:

[fredj338]

Ladle casting frustrated me too, so I went bottom pour & never looked back. For degreasing, I use something like Gunscrubber. Heat the mold buy setting it on the edge of the pot & when it gets too hot to touch, spray inside the cavs & mold face w/ the degreaser. Depnding on the alloy, get the pot just over 700deg-750deg. When pouring, hold the ladle spout in contact w/ the sprue plate until full, then back off to form the sprue. This always gives me better mold fill-out.

[canyon-ghost]

As Runfiverun mentions, you have a few inclusions and specks in the mold. That's impurities, need to reflux once in a while and skim, skim, skim. I get the inclusions from the burnt stuff being suspended in wax.

The distorted top? if it's the bullet base, the incomplete fill out or rounded edges is from being a bit cold. If that's the bullet nose, it's the mold.

[Paulinski]

Well I casted few more today - I'm using Lee pot and I'm having problems keeping them temp constant.

Also I'm still getting the imperfections so I guess I have some impurities in the pot.

I sisn't realize casting is this difficult. :( bit of a discouragement

[docone31]

By chance, did you melt your scrap in the bottom pour pot?
Casting is a lot like this to start. My first ones, and I cast silver, were miserable. I fired them anyway.
Keep at it. It gets better. You are ladle pouring so my useing Kitty Litter on top of the melt won't do you any good. It helps for me though. All the major crud seems to stick to it. It also keeps the oxides at bay.
Keep at it. You can always remelt the not so goods.
You will get there.

[Tazman1602]

Well I casted few more today - I'm using Lee pot and I'm having problems keeping them temp constant.

Also I'm still getting the imperfections so I guess I have some impurities in the pot.

I sisn't realize casting is this difficult. :( bit of a discouragement

It's a skill dude, keep working at it. I just sized/lubed a bunch of .30 cals with gaschecks last week. Sizer felt "funny" but I didn't pay attention..........STUPID, most of them are back in the remelt pile now because checks weren't seated properly, my own dumb fault I knew better, had documentation in my notes about this bullet and the gas check and just went along my merry way casting and sizing.

Casting will give you great satisfaction when you get it right. To shoot your own bullet and get it to perform properly takes patience and skill and you've got all the good advice here at this forum, just keep at it you're doing fine.

Art

[armyrat1970]

It's not always just a skill. Many times it's just dumb mistakes that we all make. Don't let it bother you. Even the most seasoned caster makes mistakes. You will learn and progress and you are on your way. Don't be discouraged.
Not meaning to give offense to any casters as we all know what we went through to begin.

[jdgabbard]

Something I thought I'd add to this. You're using a twenty pound pot... If you're having problems keeping a good heat on the mold try using the bottom pour... I've always had good results with it... Its adjustable for rate of flow... that ladle isnt...