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View Full Version : CBA "Fouling Shot" #163



BABore
05-09-2006, 10:01 AM
Does anyone have a copy of the Cast Bullet Assoc. "Fouling Shot" #163. It is said to have an article, on page 9, on how to build a cherrying vise. Would greatly appreciate a scanned or faxed copy of the article. Give me a PM.

I just joined the CBA last week. Been trying to order the back issue, but their on line store thing must be screwed up as it keeps rerouting me. Tried to contact via email, but my messeges couldn't be delivered. Hopefully their everyday stuff is more reliable.

Dale53
05-09-2006, 11:32 AM
I have been a member of CBA for many years. However, I do not have the copy #163. I have never tried to use the online store. However, keep in mind that all work done by CBA is volunteer. There is no 24-7 tech service available. Hopefully, another member on here may be able to help you.

Dale53

45 2.1
05-09-2006, 11:44 AM
The CBA has an archivist who can copy an article for a small fee. I will look up his name, phone and address for you tonight.

Slowpoke
05-09-2006, 10:27 PM
Does anyone have a copy of the Cast Bullet Assoc. "Fouling Shot" #163. It is said to have an article, on page 9, on how to build a cherrying vise. Would greatly appreciate a scanned or faxed copy of the article. Give me a PM.

I just joined the CBA last week. Been trying to order the back issue, but their on line store thing must be screwed up as it keeps rerouting me. Tried to contact via email, but my messeges couldn't be delivered. Hopefully their everyday stuff is more reliable.

Just drop $4.50 in the mail for each back issue # ,#'s you want and address it to Stanley Livingston, Director of services, PO Box412, Oquawka , IL 61469

I do it all the time.


That is a nice cherry vise that fellow made, he made it from scratch from cast iron sprues he got at a foundry. I have been threatening to send Buckshot a copy .

good luck

BABore
05-10-2006, 07:33 AM
The check's on its way. Thanks

Buckshot
05-11-2006, 02:51 AM
Just drop $4.50 in the mail for each back issue # ,#'s you want and address it to Stanley Livingston, Director of services, PO Box412, Oquawka , IL 61469

I do it all the time.


That is a nice cherry vise that fellow made, he made it from scratch from cast iron sprues he got at a foundry. I have been threatening to send Buckshot a copy .

good luck

............Heck, you can get a double acting vise from Kurt for ONLY about $1200 :-)

..........Buckshot

trk
05-11-2006, 05:40 AM
And if you look the kurt-type of vices are in the 500-600 range and occasionly on ebay for 300. That's down in my range of affordability.

Do a couple of searches - double acting vice and dual vice - to catch the various ways someone might list them. Then you'll catch the makers and models for other searches.

BABore
05-11-2006, 08:49 AM
I own a robotics and weld tooling company that employs a couple of machinists. I'm hoping to build my own vise on the cheap during slow periods. I am trying to figure out a workable vise that doesn't require a LH/RH ball screw and nuts to keep the cost down.

I designed up a vise that has an adjustable dead stop in the middle. The jaws are mounted to linear guide rods, but are not tied together. They have threaded rod screws that are independent. I'm thinking that once the mold halves are clamped into the jaws, they would be run together until tight. The adjustable dead stops would be adjusted to this position. One jaw would be opened and the edge of the opposite mold block would be indicated in for the mold centerline. With both jaws open, the cherry installed and turning, each jaw would be brought in until it touched the cutter. Now for the tricky part. Both jaws would have to be screwed in more or less simultaneously. I'm sure you could never get the same tool pressure on each side, but will it matter? I'm only talking a few thousandths difference. When the cavity is near completion, both mold halves would hit the dead stop when fully closed. Don't know if this is feasible or not as I've never cut a mold cavity. Without using a precision L/R ball screw, with zero backlash, you can never achieve a perfect return to center every time.

Antietamgw
05-11-2006, 10:21 PM
What about closing the jaws with hydralically or pnuematically with common pressure line to both sides? Just a thought. I've seen those double acting vises as well and hope to stumble on one at the used equipment places locally. Went by one last week that had mostly big stuff, like a lathe that I think could turn my shop between centers! Maybe I'd better get a copy of #163 too.

4060MAY
05-11-2006, 11:08 PM
Grizzley, H7576 self ceentering vise 129.99

Buckshot
05-12-2006, 02:52 AM
Grizzley, H7576 self ceentering vise 129.99

..............I brought that up once before after seeing it in their catalog. It was shot down due to probable lack of accuracy. However a guy could tinker with it for that amount of money.

BABore, It will ALL have backlash. I'm not sure about ballscrews never having messed with them. The very finest Acme or other threaded linear motion shaft HAS to have clearance or you couldn't turn it, or at least turn it very often or very much. If you're speaking of that as backlash.

There are a couple manufacturers selling precision ACME threaded rod in addition to retailers like McMaster-Carr and MSC. The accuracy is held to a max of .003" variance per foot of movement. That's not plus or minus, that total. I bought a 3' piece of 5/8-10 left hand for my Logan's cross slide for $56.

Let's assume the vise is built. You crank the jaws inward until they close. That is the Z axis line for the mill spindle. Crank them back open a few inches, stop and re-close them and I'd hazard that the Z axis miss-alignment would be less then a thousandth. Remember, the jaws only have to move about an inch, each. You could join the RH and LH pieces by D&Ting one, and then threading the other to fit and locking it with a nut.

If during calibration you found one jaw with most the variance, and you had threaded them to 10 or 20 TPI it would be a simple matter to unlock, then rotate one some increment to advance or retard it, to make it meet at the desired spot, then lock it back down. For 20 TPI, one turn = .050", a 1/10 turn = .005", etc. You could also preload the 2 nuts carrying the joined Acme screw against each other very simply.

The vise bed could be built of ground hardened stock, then the top bed and vise underside surface could be surface ground again upon completion. The jaws could utilize square gibbs to do away with the hassle of dovetails. Other alignment possibilities/enhancements would be to also a utilize a couple super precision ground, hard chromed hydraulic cylinder rods, carried in bronze bushings. You don't want the jaws to pinch at the top or bottom and be loose at the respective other ends.

Remember, the jaws only need to open an inch apiece, or so. The vise body doesn't have to be very long. At least the precision part doesn't.

...............Buckshot