Pics of Hosters I made and leatherworking question

[happy7]

First a set of holsters for my pair of Ruger Old Armies. Still need to make a belt for it, but having trouble figuring out what I want there. I am working on getting money to get a pair of Vaqueros (just got one off gunbroker), and so will need to make another set of holsters for them. I enjoy it though, but I am very slow.
http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm157/happyjoyfully/Img_6894.jpg
Next a holster for my 4506 cause I am thinking of using it for IPSC.

http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm157/happyjoyfully/Img_6898.jpg

I hope the holster qualifies as I have only shot one match and don't know too much about it. I just picked up three extra mags for a total of five. Now I have a holster. Only thing I still lack is a mag pouch. And that is my question. I hope some of you leatherworkers can enlighten me. I lurked over on leatherworker.net but could not find out how to do what I want. I want to form the leather around the mags. The mages are single stack 45 acp approximately the same shape as 1911 mags. How do I get the leather to form that much and because I only want the outside leather layer to form around the mag. The layer against the belt I want to stay flat. A rough idea of what I want is this picture lifted from gunbroker but without the flaps, but it shows how I want to form the leather.
http://pics.gunbroker.com/GB/146273000/146273701/pix112186468.jpg
Only thing I can think of it to build a wooden form and form it before assembly? Is there a better way? Is it smart to make one pouch to hold four mags or make two, two mag pouches?

[Sprue]

Hiya Happy.........

I'm just getting into leather working myself.

What got my interests up was that I had a holster made for my Vaq. Having liked it so well I had the guy to make another identical one for the SBH.

After the second one he made, I then began looking for tools and the sort. I was hooked (only about a month ago now).

I started out making not the FOB but the key holders with the long strap/strip to help me to find um... my... wifes.... lost keys :).

Below is pic of some things that I made as well as a few repairs.

The holster on the left was my first attempt, been need'n a holster for for my Sig 45 for a long time. The Hunter holster was a repair job, I made a new strap for it, overall it was in sad looking shape when I bought it at a flea mkrt a while back. Also had the hanker'n to make me a mallet out of a piece of hickory fire wood from out back.



http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh266/spilihp_2007/MyFirstProjects.jpg

This is my second holster that I just finished yesterday (wish I had had some black lacing thread but I couldn't wait to Order some). The Model 28 is also a new comer round here so he needed some protection too.


http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh266/spilihp_2007/Dscf1351.jpg

As for your question, and keep in mind that I only started in leatherworks less than a month ago, but looks to me like you could just mold some say... 4/5 oz over your magazines.

The way that I formed this M28 holster was to form it around the revolver itself (worried me to death I must say) by placing it in a plastic bag....

On my first holster above, I use the same technique but only used my scuba (lead shot) weights with additional ingots to form it. It did fairly well.

On the M28 holster I got the idea to place the wet 6/7 oz leather over the revolver then stuck it all into a Seal-a-meal bag and sealed it up for a couple hours while messaging it occasionally. That holster took a right nice form.

That said, why just not form your leather over the magazine itself if I understand you correctly using two pieces, one for the top to form, then sewn to the base/second piece. Thats what I was planning to do anyway.

Just a noobs response though....

As a matter of fact, I was thinking of making some mag holders myself.

BTW.. nice job on your holsters!

Keep us posted...

[smilie=s:

[Ricochet]

I made an inside-waistband holster 10 years ago for my Government model, and this week I made a similar one for my Taurus PT92 AF. Looked great. I went to soak it in molten beeswax this evening, got the beeswax a bit too hot, and ruined it. Curled up and shrank. I've got to start over.

[monadnock#5]

http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/home/department/Books-Patterns/61941-01.aspx?feature=Product_42

Since you're asking, I'll assume that you don't have the book above. It's one of three in a series and is worth its weight in gold for what you're trying to do. I'd also recommend "The Art of Hand Sewing Leather" by the same author. You've done a fine job on the holsters, but at some point you'll want to reinforce the end of the stitch nearest the trigger guard. If used frequently, it will start to break down sooner rather than later. As to your question, make the wooden forms. Rub them with beeswax and form the damp leather around them. When done, and the leather is so tight to the forms that they're almost impossible to pull out, you can screw an eyebolt into the form for extra leverage. You may end up making two backs for your pouch. The first sewed to the pouch face, and the second sewed all the way around the circumference, and with two slots for your belt. Don't forget to slip a section of belting into the slots while it dries, otherwise it will always be a bear to slip on and off your belt. None of these ideas are mine. Al Stolhman was a genius when it came to leather, a real class act.

[C1PNR]

Monadnock is giving you good information. The wooden form for the magazine holders is spot on.

Several years ago I made holsters for a couple of my handguns, a Colt Woodsman and a Charter Bulldog. I protected the firearm very well in thin plastic wrap inside a zip lock bag, then put them into the very wet, soaked actually, holsters. You can use water or rubbing alcohol as the wetting agent. Use your hands to form the leather around the gun, real tight!

I can hold either one upside down and shake it and the pistol stays in place. But they both come out easily on the draw.

It's really fun, but you need to have a little patience and get ALL your materials together before you start.

I know this is the generation of instant gratification, but some things just need to be done RIGHT.

Oh and if you have belt slots in the holster design, having your belt, or maybe even a short piece of lath, in place as the holster dries is a really good idea.

[deltaenterprizes]

IPSC holsters can not have a forward cant, muzzle must point to the front.

[EMC45]

I play around a little bit too. Made this mag pouch for my 1911A1. Wet molded around my magazine in a plastic sandwich bag. Blackened the stitching on the front side, but not the back side. Turned out ok for me.http://i298.photobucket.com/albums/mm243/Evansguns/102_2239.jpghttp://i298.photobucket.com/albums/mm243/Evansguns/102_2240.jpg

[monadnock#5]

After thinking about it some more, and reviewing your pics again:

My comments on reinforcing the stitching applies only to your single action rig. The stitching on your S&W holster is very well done as is. It's easy to see that you have a talent for making cases.

The reason for the mag forms is too tight is a bad thing is this application. Holsters should be on the tight side. They better protect, and better show off your skills as a leather crafter when tight. I can envision a couple of scenarios where a tight mag pouch might ruin your day however. 1) You pull the mag and one round stays stuck in the pouch or flies off in transit without your knowing it, or even worse 2) you present the mag to the well only to find that the top round is sticking straight up in the air and the next one down got pushed forward enough to cause its own problems. OH expletive deleted wouldn't quite cover the situation.

Personally I'd make 2 separate pouches. If you make one long one, you'll end up having to wet form it to the contour of your body, or something similar.

[44man]

I see some very nice work.
I made some for my home made knives and found wood forms are the best way.
I made this knife from tool steel and scrap brass. Rosewood inlays. Get blood on it, don't clean it right off and it will rust.
Anyway I made a wood form with male and female parts to squeeze the leather but I can't find them to show. I form the front first and then sew the parts together, hand stitch.

[happy7]

Thanks for the advise. I am starting to grasp how to go about this. Thanks. I have made some wood forms now and put the leather in. I will see what I get when it dries. Good point about not making it too tight. I will definitely test them with loaded rounds. I had not thought about that possibility. My equipment is still real limited and that includes books. I don't have any yet, but the way it is going, I probably will end up investing in some.

[freedom475]

That's some nice work you guys are showing!!

Happy7... if you want a rigid, moulded fit to your pouches then you will want to use skirting like your holsters..

Location from the hide that you chose for your leather will be one of the biggest Benifits or curses...

The other is ...Usually the cheaper the leather the harder it will be to work with.

Think of the cow when it was allive..

The Back... straight and hardly moves or stretches through the cows hole life. This is where to cut belts and straps from.. it is heavy and will not stretch much. The back Cannot be wet formed into little pouches... (Well maybe, but what a total NIGHTMARE!)

The Neck... Very Heavy leather and moves constantly. It will stretch and form but it is so heavy and wrinkled that it doesn't form well.

The Belly... It is light weight and is always swelling and moving through the cows life... Perfect for moulding... not much good for anything else.

I fought with this for a long time... tried all types of things and tricks to mould and form with. Sometimes it worked so good other times...Leather in the trash

Now I just use the belly's and things have never looked better for my pouches,.



Wet the leather with a sponge or just hold it under water for 15 seconds (Not soak it, if you get it too wet it will have too much flop and springback) let the water soak in for a a couple minutes(depending on how thick it is) Now you can take a wood block or just your magazine and form and stretch the leather around it. I have made some "bone folders" from polished antler but anything that won't scratch will work for moulding...even just your fingers.. after you have forced it into shape...you are done... You don't even need the wood block to stay in it as it drys as long as you are carful with it.

You will find that Barge cemment(green, Not blue) is the best thing going and it sure makes the pouches easier to stitch You can even glue leather that is soaking wet..... Leave the back big/oversized. Then trim after you have stitched the front on. But don't forget to put your belt loop on the back before you put the back on...LOL

Hope some of this helps/or even makes sense[smilie=l:
Wes

[happy7]

Wes,

Thanks for your informative post. It answers some questions I have been having. I had not even thought about it making a difference what part of the cow leather comes from. Of course, for us hobby types, getting leather from a certain part of the cow can be difficult, unless there is a way to buy little pieces.

Monadnock,

After you advice about reinforcing stitching on the holster near the trigger guard I was able to see on a store made holster what you were talking about. Thanks for pointing that out.

On the mag pouch in question, here is what I came up with. I did use a wood mold and that worked, but is a lot of effort for a one offer. I learned a lot and to be honest I am not looking forward to doing it again. Holsters are a lot more fun I feel, but I am pleased with the result and think it will be functional.

http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm157/happyjoyfully/IMG_6900.jpg


http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm157/happyjoyfully/IMG_6901.jpg

[freedom475]

:holysheep!! that looks great!

[monadnock#5]

Congratulations! That's a nice design you came up with. British Tan is my favorite dye color.

I in no way meant to be critical of your not having the books mentioned earlier. Al Stohlman was a true artist in every sense of the word. He even now has a way of convincing those who read his books that "Hey... you can do this too.", and make you believe it. I can help, but I'm no Al Stohlman.

[EMC45]

Neat 4 mag holder!!

[happy7]

In the first post above, is a picture of the holsters for my pair of Old Armys. I just finished these holsters for my Ruger Vaquero. I still need a second vaquero as I only have one Vaquero yet, but at least have the holsters done. One of these days I will make it to a match. I still have a ways to go on my wardrobe though. If I can find an acceptable shirt I guess at least I will not look too bad. Can anyone recommend a cheap shirt that is acceptable for CAS? The other thing I need is a shotgun cartridge holder. I'm still not sure what I want for that. I am thinking of just putting the cartriges in my shirt pocket a couple times and take a look at what the other shooters are doing. I don't know if I want a separate belt for the shotgun cartriges, or put them on a slide on my holster belt (but then what to do with the buckle?) or something else.

http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm157/happyjoyfully/Img_7007a.jpg

[Three-Fifty-Seven]

Looking good!

I'm interested in making some of my own too . . . what weight leather do you use?

I've checked out (drooled!) over 7XLeathers site! Great stuff there too!

[happy7]

Looking good!

I'm interested in making some of my own too . . . what weight leather do you use?
!

I used some 9-10 oz from Tandy Leather.

[Three-Fifty-Seven]

Did you use the same 9-10oz for the mag holders too?

I just ordered 4 of Al's books . . . Now I gotta figure out what tools . . .

I found this place for some leather . . . they have some smaller chunks so you don't need to buy the whole hide! (got some tools too . . . )http://www.leatherunltd.com/leather/pieces/pieces.html

We do have a Tandy in Tucson . . . I will stop in next time I'm in town . . .