Nose Fill Out WW

[Jeffreytooker]

I am casting bullets from a mould that I have had good results with before. It is 214 gr and has a long tapered nose. Taper is from .3015 to .3113. I have previously cast boolits from this mould with lino. It works well. I am now casting with straight WW. On one side about 90 deg from the mould seam I get from time to time a frosty spot which does not fill out all the way. The taper is a straight line the no fill is a sag in the straight line. My temp is 650, checked with a thermometer. Has anyone had this problem before? All advice greatly appreciated.

Jeffrey

[Jeffreytooker]

I am casting bullets from a mould that I have had good results with before. It is 214 gr and has a long tapered nose. Taper is from .3015 to .3113. I have previously cast boolits from this mould with lino. It works well. I am now casting with straight WW. On one side about 90 deg from the mould seam I get from time to time a frosty spot which does not fill out all the way. The taper is a straight line the no fill is a sag in the straight line. My temp is 650, checked with a thermometer. Has anyone had this problem before? All advice greatly appreciated.

Jeffrey


PS The mould is nose pour.

J.

[DaveInFloweryBranchGA]

Jeff,

Up your temperature and don't worry about the frosting. You don't have as much tin as you had with the lino and you'll need more temperature both with the melt and the mold to get the fillout you're looking for.

I'm assuming you're casting from wheel weight ingots that have already been smelted and cleaned in a step separate from casting so you don't have to worry about zinc issues.

Dave

[waksupi]

Yup, raise the temp about a hundred degrees, and you should be good to go.

[Jeffreytooker]

Yup, raise the temp about a hundred degrees, and you should be good to go.

OK guys I will raise the temp. to about 750. We will see what happens tomorrow. Thanks for the help.

Jeffrey

[MacGregor]

damn... casting at 650 is a feat in my garage... i don't start getting decent UNTIL 750..

of course i pour hollowpoints..

[Topper]

Jeffrey,
I have a nose pour mold for 300gr .41mag that was giving me a bit of trouble with nose fill. Some fine gentleman on the forum here had posted bluing the mold some time helps. I disassembled mine, cleaned it real well and blued it without removing the existing blue.
Getting complete fills now once mold comes up to temp using straight WW.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v342/Topper_1950/Hoch1.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v342/Topper_1950/Hoch2.jpg

[Dale53]

I always recommend adding 2% tin to WW's. The tin helps greatly in reducing surface tension in the molten metal and helps "fill out" a LOT!

Dale53

[Bass Ackward]

Jeff,

You are a little on the cool side for straight WW. You must be ladling. Most run bottom pours at between 750 - 900 degrees for WW depending on the bullet size, diameter, and .... length.

If you have abstract and moving defects on your boolits, you have a cold melt or mix. If you have a fixed spot that always seems to cause the problem, then what you may identify, is that you have a mold that isn't venting properly (or enough) in one area. You can give it more time to vent by smoking the cavities, adding more tin, increasing heat of the mold or mix, or increasing the pressure / speed of the fill. Even changing the angle of the mold during the fill (ladling) will sometimes solve this because it directs the trapped air to another area where venting is entirely successful.

Any of these actions will solve that problem. But you may still need to clean out your vent lines.

[Jeffreytooker]

[QUOTE=Bass Ackward]Jeff,

You are a little on the cool side for straight WW. You must be ladling. Most run bottom pours at between 750 - 900 degrees for WW depending on the bullet size, diameter, and .... length.

Bass Et Al:

I raised the temp to about 800. The mould is casting well. I have another mould which may require some of Basses suggestions.

Thanks to all.

Jeffrey