PID Control for Lyman 4500 Heater

[jim4065]

Thanks to the patient help of the experts on this board, I got the controller set up and working perfectly for my lead pots. Now I want to try setting up a new controller for the 4500 LubraSizer. I'd like to save a few bucks by using this one: http://cgi.ebay.com/PID-SSR-TEMPERATURE-CONTROLLER-FURNACE-KILN-OVEN-oC-oF_W0QQitemZ330371288634QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_Defa ultDomain_0?hash=item4ceba9ce3a. Has anyone done this yet? I think I can set up the controller, SSR and heatsink OK, but not at all sure of how to attach a thermocouple to the LubraSizer. Would it work to just glue it on with some liquid solder? Don't need much heat, but I sure get tired of plugging and unplugging constantly. :(

[jim4065]

OK - maybe that's not such a good idea. Lyman says to simply plug and unplug as appropriate.

Still a PITA. Will this work? http://cgi.ebay.com/JIG-SAW-POWER-TOOLVariable-Speed-Rheostat-SPEED-Control_W0QQitemZ120484747444QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH _DefaultDomain_0?hash=item1c0d7358b4

[Frozone]

I'd suggest a more appropriate sensor than a K type.

http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=15&products_id=38&zenid=bc859aeeade16b8b1ad94930c6c9f926

It's not as wide an operating range, but it'll do a better job in this case.
It also is small enough to be added by drilling a small hole.

[JIMinPHX]

You might want to first try the el-cheapo gizmo that's shown in post #31 of this thread-
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?t=22624&page=2

It cost about $10 to put together with parts from Home Depot & works well enough for me. It can be used to control a lubrasizer heater or a small pot (600W max) .

If you do go with the SSR & PID gizmo, then yes you can just tape the thermocouple to the side of the sizer & cover it with some insulation of some sort. It will work much better if you drill a small hole in the base that is sort of near the heating cartridge & stuff the thermocouple in there. The PID gizmo will have better info to respond to that way.

[jim4065]

You might want to first try the el-cheapo gizmo that's shown in post #31 of this thread-
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?t=22624&page=2

It cost about $10 to put together with parts from Home Depot & works well enough for me. It can be used to control a lubrasizer heater or a small pot (600W max) .

If you do go with the SSR & PID gizmo, then yes you can just tape the thermocouple to the side of the sizer & cover it with some insulation of some sort. It will work much better if you drill a small hole in the base that is sort of near the heating cartridge & stuff the thermocouple in there. The PID gizmo will have better info to respond to that way.

Thanks for the info. I have a PID on my lead pots which is wired up a lot like your dimmer (but I was stupid and removed both jumpers, so had to run the extra wire). Anyway the bottom socket is always hot and the top is controlled by the PID. That lets me heat to melting on the bottom socket, then simply move the plug to the top socket, stick the thermocouple in the pot and switch on the PID. I then set the temp that I want, push the "Auto Adjust" button and leave it be 'til the LED stops flashing.

The little heater in the Lyman 4500 sizer is so small that it takes about an hour to bring the lube to a good temp (when starting from 30 degrees or so). Since I only run one lube in that sizer I figured it won't be much trouble to control it with the "ebay cheapie". Bought the darn thing yesterday, so I'm sure hoping it works OK. Don't do much messing with casting and reloading in the fall, so I won't have much time to play with this stuff 'til January.

[JIMinPHX]

The little heater in the Lyman 4500 sizer is so small that it takes about an hour to bring the lube to a good temp (when starting from 30 degrees or so).

Try jump starting the heating process with a propane torch. A few minutes of gently waving it evenly over the body of the sizer usually gets things going pretty well.

[Alex]

Try using an RTD (resistance temperature detector) instead of a TC. A Class-A accuracy RTD from Omega will set you back about $50 but they're accurate to +/- about 1 degree F.