Working up loads

[Texas223]

I'm wondering if there is a basic formula for working up loads. Since I didn't receive any of the stimulus money, I'm on a budget. Therefore, I would appreciate not wasting a bunch of powder and lead if there is a good method already in place that would eliminate missteps.
I understand that one would need to use cases that have the same head stamp, etc.
Any help is appreciated already.

Thanks,

Michael

[mpmarty]

Welcome Texas223.
It would help us all if you could define what you're shooting. Rifle? Pistol? Revolver? Caliber? What weight boolit are you planning to use?
With that info many of us can and will certainly point you in the right direction, but keep in mind that every firearm has its own idiosyncrasies and needs individual "nudging" of the load to achieve its utmost accuracy.

[waksupi]

Usually starting at the lowest published load for your boolit weight and working up, is a good place to start.

[Texas223]

I cast, reload and shoot 45acp 230gn LRN, 9mm 115gn LRN, .380acp 95gn LRN, .38 Spl 158gn lead wadcutter and flat nose, and 32acp 71gn LRN. I doubt that I will be casting and reloading any rifle boolits in the future, but I may as I hope to acquire an M1 Garand in 30-06 before I take up the rocking chair.

Michael

[randyrat]

Not any specific loads in mind right now.. But i usually have good luck around 80% of max or almost max loads for jacketed bullet loads using cast boolits....... You may be able to break that barrier if everything is perfect.
Just be carefull not to go too low and get a squib load.....I say; you don't have to worrie about the squib, it's the next bullet that's bad JU JU.

[runfiverun]

i start near the middle of published data and then go either up or down,based on what i see.
if it's for a gun i am familiar with i generally just target a speed.
like 850 in the 38, 900 or 1200 in the 44 etc.
once i have established a velocity the rifle/revolver likes, it's just a matter of pressure with faster or slower burn rate powders.
if using just one powder then it's a velocity/accuracy issue.
you don't need to try 50 rounds for each try i will shoot 5 of each load on target and you will see a zone to target.
the ladder method basically.

[Shiloh]

My experience is the velocities of published loads, rarely equals the actual application velocities on a charge to charge basis.

I load auto pistols to where accuracy is good at a charge that will cycle the action. This is ususally the lower end of the middle of the suggested published loads.

My 1911 cycles at 3.6 grains of Bullseye under a 200 gr SWC. 3.8 grains gives fine target accuracy with mild recoil.

Shiloh

[Rocky Raab]

Here's my method, which works on all but the smallest of rounds with tiny charges.

First, make sure you have more than enough components to complete not only a test series, but then make a useful number of reloads afterward. It's pointless to begin with only a little of anything.

Take the top book load for your combination of components. Subtract 10% of the powder charge to get your Start Load. Load five batches of test ammo, with charges increased by 2% in each. Shoot and document the results. Retest the most promising load, and check it with charges 1% either side.

This works with ANY cartridge and load (except ones so small the load increment is less than a tenth of a grain of powder). The load increments stay proportional because they are based on percentage, not some arbitrary number like a half-grain, and it allows you to get results with the minimum use of components.

Example: Top book load shows 52.4 grains. Start load would be that less 10% or 47.16. You may round off to 47.0 for simplicity. Your 2% increment would be 1.048, rounded to one grain. The test loads then would be 47, 48, 49, 50 and 51. If your best test came at 50 grains, you re-shoot that, and also 1% either side with 49.5 and 50.5 The best of those three is your load. Done.

Only if you continue to see improvement with no problem signs would you test the book near-max load of 52. If that looked good, you might try 51.5 and the absolute max of 52.4 grains.

[felix]

Not done yet, Rocky! If shooting one percent on either side of the "load", and there is an obvious variance in accuracy, the powder speed should be altered, either by primer change or by powder change. ... felix

[O.S.O.K.]

Well, you can list your caliber, specific bullet or boolit you are loading and also I'd include the firearm/s that you'll be shooting it out of and we can give you our favorite loads.

You can then check the loads against your book loads and then if satisfied with the safety, give em a whirl.

Some loads are almost always accurate such as Skeeter's 44 Speical load with a 250-260 grain keith plain based cast boolit - 7.5 Grains of Unique for around 950 fps from a 4" revolver. That is fine in a strong 44 Special but not OK in something like a Taurus which is very inconsistent in metalurgy.

Most of my favorite loads are middle pressure type loads but some are maximum.

From you list, here are my recommendations:

45 ACP 230 LRN boolit 5.5 gr. W231 800 fps
45 ACP 230 LRN boolit 5.6 gr. Unique 800 fps
9x19 115 LRN boolit 4.7 gr. W231 1150 fps
38 Spc HBWC 3.5 gr. W231 780 fps
38 Spc HBWC 3.0 gr. Red Dot 800 fps

I load for the others but don't have favorite loads for them.

Hope that helps.

[Texas223]

My handgun/boolit combinations are as follows:

Springfield 1911 A1 = 230gn LRN
Springfield XD Subcompact = 9x19mm 115gn LRN
Ruger LCR = 38 Special 158gn Lead flat nose
Bersa 380CC & Ruger LCP = .380 95gn LRN
Kel-Tec 32 = .32acp 71gn LRN.

I also cast/reload .38 Special 158gn Wadcutters for a Smith & Wesson revolver that my Father-in-law gave me. I'm not sure what the correct nomenclature is for it. It is a 6 shot, 4 inch barrel and has very nice wooden grips. It is a double/single action model. Someone told me that it is a police model from the early 60s.

Michael

[O.S.O.K.]

The only velocities that I listed that will vary for you is the 38 Special wad cutter - will be a bit slower out of your snubby. I like those BTW - handled one in a shop in Louisiana not long ago... felt good - very light.

Your S&W pistol sounds like a model 10. You can find the model number on the frame - swing out the cyliner and look on the frame just up from the hinge where it connects.

[Texas223]

O.S.O.K., You are correct. The frame is stamped Mod 10-5. It is a very nice revolver, and I especially like to shoot it single action.
Thank you and everyone else who answered my question about working up loads.
I have a variety of powders, but I seem to gravitate toward Unique. It meters consistently well for me. I have some 231 and some Bullseye but have not tried them as yet.

Michael

[O.S.O.K.]

I like Unique too but W231 meters much better and gives me great accuracy.

It used to shoot a bit cleaner than Unique but with the new formulation, they are about the same in that regard now.