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View Full Version : Lee Pro 4-20 vs Magnmum melter for new caster



sciguy
09-23-2009, 01:33 PM
After watching this forum from the sidelines for several months, I've decided to take the plunge and begin casting my own boolits for my Springfield Armory 1911acp. At this point I've collected several hundred pounds of wheel weights, aquired one of Mihec's H&G 68 clone molds, am set to produce cleaned lead with a deep fryer and pot but one of my last major hold ups is aquiring an electric lead melter for the direct casting.

There are many great choices especially if one is willing to spend some big bucks. Rather than go that route, I've decided the a Lee melter will be good enough at least initially. So my current dilemma is should I go with a Pro4-20 and be able to bottom pour if I feel inclined or would a Magnum melter simpilfy my life by forcing the use of a ladle and eliminating the dribbling issue that seem to pop up so often.

Is it a pain to use the Pro4-20 to ladle pour or is this a non issue?

Thanks for any informed replies.

Hugh

fredj338
09-23-2009, 01:50 PM
I see no advantage in a ladle vs a bottom pour. I have an old Lee10#, Lee 20#PIV & a Magma Master. All work, all melt lead. I must have the only PIV that doesn't drip excessively. I think most drip problems are people smelting ww in them & crud getting to the bottom. Use clean alloy in it & dripping is minimal IME. If you want a high end melter, the RCBS is very nice, but pricey.

bedwards
09-23-2009, 02:05 PM
I've had the Lee since the late 80s and its done well for me. I do get the occasional drip but I run the sprue over alot more than that.

be

SP101GUY
09-23-2009, 02:20 PM
I've been using my Lee 4-20 for only 4 months now. I've gone thru 250# of melt in that time, and I love the pot. Keep it clean and it will have minimal drips. I spill lots more. Cleans up easy off of the aluminum frame. I break it down after each ingot melt session and clean the spout out. When just casting boolits I usually leave some lead in the bottom. It melts fast and works great for me.

AJ

Rockchucker
09-23-2009, 02:22 PM
I see NO advantage in buying a very expensive bottom pour machine to start off with. The small amount of lead that drips from my Lee 4-20 is caught using one of my ingot molds so it's not a problem and is over rated by many on this forum. If I were starting over again casting boolits I'd buy another lee bottom pour and spend my money saved on new molds.:castmine:

Plain Base
09-23-2009, 02:32 PM
I just ordered a Pro 4-20 today. It cost less than 25% what the RCBS does, and about 10% of what the Magma pot does. While I'm sure the LEE furnaces aren't of the same quality as the more expensive units, I think (hope?) they're a much better value. Right now I'd rather spend my extra money on lead and moulds.

Jumping Frog
09-23-2009, 03:04 PM
I've never regretted my Lee 4-20.

After you have been casting a while, you'll realize that even if you do get a little dripping, it is no big deal.

Bret4207
09-23-2009, 03:46 PM
I've been ladle casting for 30+ years. I'm trying to learn to bottom pour. As I noted recently in another post the BP is faster as far as the actual pouring goes, but it takes longer to bend over and look for the spout and get things lined up. I will not use a Lee BP pot. I still have one somewhere under the bench and it can stay there forever AFAIC. I'm using a SAECO pot now and it's a much nicer, more solidly built pot. It's very similar to the old Lyman 61, if not the same.

The ladle vs BP thing comes down to ergonomics. Some folks are good with their hands and have no trouble manipulating the ladle, which by the way you can SEE what your doing as you use it unlike the BP. Other folks aren't so handy and might benefit from the somewhat easier manipulation of the BP where everything remains in one place. Both methods can produce perfect boolits. It's up to the user to decide which method fits him better.

FWIW- I think a BP might pork better if it was mounted quite high so you could see the spout clearly. But, that puts the op lever way up in the air and for us old guys that may be an issue.

GRid.1569
09-23-2009, 03:50 PM
OK I've not been doing this long but... is the Lee drip a myth?

I've gone a few melts / re-melts and the only drip I've had (so far) is when I'm stirring and I can feel the valve lifting as a result of impacts with the stirrer...

carpetman
09-23-2009, 03:58 PM
I converted from ladle to bottom pour a few years ago and instantly liked the bottom pour better. I have a Lee pot and have been pleased with it. When casting .22 I put the sprue plate in contact with the nozzle and it only creates a pin head size sprue which seems to stick and I have to pick it off. If I try holding the mold a little ways from the nozzle I get a bigger sprue but I get more incomplete fills. Sometimes I hold the plate to the nozzle and fill then back it off a little ways and pour a bigger sprue over the existing "pin heads" and the extra weight makes them drop right off. That's the only problem I can think of from using the bottom pour. I really don't know what problem Bret mentioned about seeing anything. Place the sprue plate against the nozzle---which you can feel and fill her up. Larger cals seem to produce a heavy enough sprue to release---but the .22 makes the pin head.

Rocky Raab
09-23-2009, 04:40 PM
I went to a Lee 10# BP last year after using a pot and ladle for years. Won't go back.

I have my pot on a 40" bench and can see the pour spout fine. I can let an inch-long stream of lead hit the sprue plate hole and get beautiful fillout, yet drop the handle to prevent spilling much if at all after the puddle forms. With a two-cavity mould, I can get two dime-sized puddles or allow them to merge into one. No sweat.

I had a small drip problem during my very first melt, when I was melting my first run of wheelweights and some dirty range scrap, but I haven't had a drip problem since. I either leave the pot full when I unplug it, or drain out all but a half-inch of lead so I can clean the sides after it cools.

When I realize I can completely wear out or burn out four Lee pots for the price of one RCBS, the choice is obvious.

Rocky Raab
09-23-2009, 04:45 PM
One tip I discovered this week by accident. I keep a shallow aluminum pan under the spout to catch lead that runs off the mould. I dropped a chunk of candle into that tray and of course, it melted too fast for me to get it out. The next time I emptied the couple of ounces of lead in the pan back into the pot, the now-cool wax fluxed the pot quite nicely. Neat!

So now, I drop a quarter-inch long chunk of wax into the drip pan to start with. When I accumulate two or three ounces of lead in the pan, I dump it out and return it to the pot. A quick stir and I'm fluxed again.

Cowboy5780
09-23-2009, 05:12 PM
Ive got the lee 4-20 and dont have enough drip to calll it a problem. I sit an ingot mold under the spout on the base of the pot if it drips any i just pour it back into the melt. I did take a bit to get it adjusted at first but im well satisfied and dont see how it could work better.

sciguy
09-23-2009, 05:23 PM
So is there any problems using the Pro4-20 to ladle certain molds? Does the bottom pour apparatus get in the way of the ladle?

Thanks so much for all of the feedback!

Hugh

skeet1
09-23-2009, 05:26 PM
I have an old Saeco bottom pour that I have never like using the bottom pour part of the pot. I always used a ladle because that was the way I was taught. I recently purchased the Lee 4-20 and as an after thought tried to use the bottom pour on it. I was very pleasantly surprised how well it worked and that is the way I will cast from now on. It looks like my old Saeco is about to go into retirement. By the way there is lots of room for the ladle if someone wants to use one.



Skeet1

Big Tom
09-23-2009, 06:16 PM
I also have been using the 4-20 for about a year now and it works fine for me. Occasional drips go into the ingot mold that sits under the spout and if you turn the valve pin with a scredriver, the dripping stops (at least it did it every time I tried it). For the money spent, I am perfectly happy with it. The only thing I added was a PID to keep the temperature exactly where I want it to be (had the PID earlier for my smoker, so I just added another probe for the pot) - works like a charm...

Tom

59sharps
09-23-2009, 07:39 PM
Have the RCBS Pro melt and The Lee 4-20 like them both. have the RCBS for 20 yrs the Lee for 8 Like the $$ price Lee Better. Never could get a good pour from a laddle. and its a lot slower. I'll stick w/ bottom pour.

Bret4207
09-23-2009, 07:56 PM
OK I've not been doing this long but... is the Lee drip a myth?

I've gone a few melts / re-melts and the only drip I've had (so far) is when I'm stirring and I can feel the valve lifting as a result of impacts with the stirrer...

My Lee dripped horribly. I emptied it, cleaned it, lapped the stopper in several times and it still leaked. No rhyme or reason to it. I'd turn my back for a second and turn back around and there's be 10 lbs of alloy on the base. Other times it would be fine for 20 minutes and then all the sudden start dripping for 2 minutes and stop, or I'd turn the stopper to get it to stop and it would start gushing out. Got me. All I know is mine did that for no reason I could ever figure out. I finally filled the sout and tried using as a ladle pot and it would still drip even though the spout was seemingly plugged solid.

I finally decided mine was possessed and stopped using it. I found a new pot that held over 25 lbs and was very happy with it.

Bret4207
09-23-2009, 08:01 PM
I converted from ladle to bottom pour a few years ago and instantly liked the bottom pour better. I have a Lee pot and have been pleased with it. When casting .22 I put the sprue plate in contact with the nozzle and it only creates a pin head size sprue which seems to stick and I have to pick it off. If I try holding the mold a little ways from the nozzle I get a bigger sprue but I get more incomplete fills. Sometimes I hold the plate to the nozzle and fill then back it off a little ways and pour a bigger sprue over the existing "pin heads" and the extra weight makes them drop right off. That's the only problem I can think of from using the bottom pour. I really don't know what problem Bret mentioned about seeing anything. Place the sprue plate against the nozzle---which you can feel and fill her up. Larger cals seem to produce a heavy enough sprue to release---but the .22 makes the pin head.

The SAECO is a set up a bit different must be Ray. The nozzle is an inch or so back from the front and the control box sticks out more than that so you have to crick your neck over to look and see it. I'm going to try raising it up higher and see if that works better for me.

Got the same "pin heads" with the 22 Bator I tried yesterday too. The boolits turned out nice once it got up to heat. Of course I had to take the boolits over to the big lighted magnifying glass to determine that. Dang they're SMALL! That little Lee mould sure makes a nice boolit though.

Nate1778
09-23-2009, 08:18 PM
I use a Lee 10#, it drips, I keep a cut coke can under it, no big deal. A couple twist of the valve and the drip is gone.

What I don't get is the lining the nozzle with the mold. I guess mine is at the right height, but once I am in the groove I don't even think about the nozzle and get a perfect pour, with very little sprew above the mold.

mold maker
09-23-2009, 08:55 PM
Have a seat and save our back. You'll also be able to see the spout. Use a shelf to position the mold, and the most work you have to do is working the sprue plate and dumping the boolits. Casting is supposed to be fun, not work.
The only drip that hurts you is the one that falls into the mold before your ready to lift the handle.
Neither of my Lee BP pots drip excessively, if ever. It's less of a problem than the constantly freezing spout of my expensive Lyman pot.

XWrench3
09-24-2009, 07:34 AM
i have a lee 4-20 pro melter, it works great for me. ladel casting would be a non issue, as long as your ladel is small enough to fit in the pot. as for all the leaks i hear about from lee bottom pors, mine drips probably 10 drops per pot of lead. this is of no real concern to me, as i spill way more than that in half a pot.as long as you keep the pot reasonably clean, you should have no major problems with dripping. the only thing i can figure when i hear horror storries about these, is either the pot is extremely dirty, or the rod (that closes off the hole) has been bent somehow. also, there is an adjustment screw on the top, that will need to be adjusted as the lead level gets less. other than that, in my opinion, it is a great melter. oh, before you start, spray the inside of the pot with (i used frankford arsenal mold release) something that will make it easier to clean the pot surfaces once in a while. a clean pot, is a happy pot!

Bret4207
09-24-2009, 01:39 PM
Just came in from the shop. ( Don;t tell my wife but I took a day for ME today!) Found that raising the SAECO 6" higher helps a lot. Maybe this BP thing will work after all. Time will tell.

plumber
09-24-2009, 02:01 PM
As far as the "lee drip" goes, my new Lyman mag 20 drips worse than my old Lee!
One thing that is different, the Lyman maintains temperature a lot tighter than the Lee

TAWILDCATT
09-24-2009, 02:24 PM
I have posted this before BUT.harbor freight has a router speed control $15 that controls voltage.I am using it on my old saeco.have tried it on lee and it works on both.by controling the voltage you control the resistance and heat.and it runs constant so there are no ups and downs in temp.
also a weight on the rod on lee will help on the pot.

fredj338
09-24-2009, 02:29 PM
I think most guys get drips from the Lee by running it empty. This puts crud into the spout. Just keep it at least 1/4 full when you quit casting. It also gets to casting temp faster this way. I haven't empited a bottom pour pot in 30yrs of casting. Maybe that is why I don't have drip problems?

Zbench
09-24-2009, 02:36 PM
I've got a different opinion. I started with the Lee Drip O Matic with the same idea you did...buy a cheaper pot and save money for other stuff. I quickly punted the Lee for the following reasons and bought the RCBS which I love:

1) the temp in the pot swings wildly. Like +/- 100 degrees without moving the knob

2) It leaks as others have said above

3) The pot itself is made out of regular steel...as a result it rusts and has

4) The spout gives a tiny stream as compared to the RCBS.

5) There is no "support" like in the RCBS. That support I've grown to love. If you sit while you pour, it's very quick and easy to move the mould from back to front and fill all the cavities

6) The pot on the Lee is small. That causes you to remelt ingots if they are not already in a 1 pound size. Also, in a long casting session, it requires you to add metal more often which aggravates further the mickey mouse temp control that it has.

7) Did I mention it drips?

If you want my Lee and are willing to pay for postage (and clean it out and deal with all the problems it has), drop me a note and I will send it to you. I hate that thing and was thinking of shooting it with my .454 Casull the next time I was at the range.

Pete

qajaq59
09-24-2009, 02:40 PM
OK I've not been doing this long but... is the Lee drip a myth? No it'll drip.... but keep it clean, adjust it right, and it isn't going to drip enough to be a big problem.

fredj338
09-24-2009, 02:43 PM
I've got a different opinion. I started with the Lee Drip O Matic with the same idea you did...buy a cheaper pot and save money for other stuff. I quickly punted the Lee for the following reasons and bought the RCBS which I love:

1) the temp in the pot swings wildly. Like +/- 100 degrees without moving the knob

2) It leaks as others have said above

3) The pot itself is made out of regular steel...as a result it rusts and has

4) The spout gives a tiny stream as compared to the RCBS.

5) There is no "support" like in the RCBS. That support I've grown to love. If you sit while you pour, it's very quick and easy to move the mould from back to front and fill all the cavities

6) The pot on the Lee is small. That causes you to remelt ingots if they are not already in a 1 pound size. Also, in a long casting session, it requires you to add metal more often which aggravates further the mickey mouse temp control that it has.

7) Did I mention it drips?

If you want my Lee and are willing to pay for postage (and clean it out and deal with all the problems it has), drop me a note and I will send it to you. I hate that thing and was thinking of shooting it with my .454 Casull the next time I was at the range.

Pete
I agree, the RCBS is a better pot, but @ 4-5x the cost. The 20# Lee basically is the same size as the 22# RCBS so ingots are a none issue. If you have the money & are loving casting, get the RCBS for sure. If not, the Lee 20#PIV works fine. You can always get an RCBS later, use the Lee for pure lead or 25-1, etc. alloy. I have an old 10# I use just for casting LHP.

sciguy
09-24-2009, 03:06 PM
If you want my Lee and are willing to pay for postage (and clean it out and deal with all the problems it has), drop me a note and I will send it to you. I hate that thing and was thinking of shooting it with my .454 Casull the next time I was at the range.

Pete

PM sent:)

rob45
09-24-2009, 03:36 PM
After watching this forum from the sidelines for several months, I've decided to take the plunge and begin casting my own boolits for my Springfield Armory 1911acp. At this point I've collected several hundred pounds of wheel weights, aquired one of Mihec's H&G 68 clone molds, am set to produce cleaned lead with a deep fryer and pot but one of my last major hold ups is aquiring an electric lead melter for the direct casting.

There are many great choices especially if one is willing to spend some big bucks. Rather than go that route, I've decided the a Lee melter will be good enough at least initially. So my current dilemma is should I go with a Pro4-20 and be able to bottom pour if I feel inclined or would a Magnum melter simpilfy my life by forcing the use of a ladle and eliminating the dribbling issue that seem to pop up so often.

Is it a pain to use the Pro4-20 to ladle pour or is this a non issue?

Thanks for any informed replies.

Hugh


You mention casting for your 1911, which means that production (volume) capability is eventually going to be an issue. With a bottom-pour pot it is typically easier to pour more bullets in the same time frame. This is not as important when you're just beginning and taking your time to learn, but becomes very important as your experience grows.
Also of benefit with a bottom-pour is the fact that you can keep an insulating layer on the top of the melt. This reduces oxidation and also mitigates cycling of the thermostat. While it is still possible to use such a layer when using a ladle, it becomes more painstaking because you're constantly pushing it aside to keep it out of your ladle. And you still have to flux more often when using the ladle, as you're constantly disturbing the top surface of the melt.

There may be times when ladle casting is the better option. For example, if I am casting long-for-caliber rifle bullets, I almost always get better results with a ladle. Much of this depends on your technique and the particular ladle you're using, but I believe the main advantage to a ladle is that YOU control the rate of pour. When using a bottom-pour, your rate of flow is limited to what the pot gives you.

The Lee unit has more than enough room to use a ladle if you so desire. The issue of dripping is of minor importance to me; my particular unit does drip on occasion. I do keep a clean pot and reset the valve, but sometimes it still drips. But that does not impact my casting one bit. The drip from the pot is considerably less than the mess I make when using a ladle, but then again I'm sloppy.:rolleyes:

I like to relate the above to automobiles-some get absolute lemons, but most are satisfied enough with their purchase that they overlook minor shortcomings. The main thing is for it to start and run, and then get you from point A to point B. If your pot melts the lead and satisfactorily gets it into the mold, then it has performed the most basic duties. The Lee unit will do that and then some. You have the ability to both bottom-pour and use a ladle, and the price is right for the features it provides, which is usually the deciding factor.

FWIW, I hope this helps answer some of your questions.

qajaq59
09-24-2009, 03:53 PM
I've got a different opinion. I started with the Lee Drip O Matic with the same idea you did...buy a cheaper pot and save money for other stuff. I quickly punted the Lee for the following reasons and bought the RCBS which I love:

1) the temp in the pot swings wildly. Like +/- 100 degrees without moving the knob

2) It leaks as others have said above

3) The pot itself is made out of regular steel...as a result it rusts and has

4) The spout gives a tiny stream as compared to the RCBS.

5) There is no "support" like in the RCBS. That support I've grown to love. If you sit while you pour, it's very quick and easy to move the mould from back to front and fill all the cavities

6) The pot on the Lee is small. That causes you to remelt ingots if they are not already in a 1 pound size. Also, in a long casting session, it requires you to add metal more often which aggravates further the mickey mouse temp control that it has.

7) Did I mention it drips?

If you want my Lee and are willing to pay for postage (and clean it out and deal with all the problems it has), drop me a note and I will send it to you. I hate that thing and was thinking of shooting it with my .454 Casull the next time I was at the range.
Pete

Pete, don't hold back like that..... Just say it like it is. :bigsmyl2:

Zbench
09-24-2009, 04:02 PM
I'll try to let it flow naturally next time, not keep it bottled up like before. :D

As Fred notes, the pots are roughly the same size. I realized after I wrote my opinion above, I have the smaller 10# pot. But looking at them side by side at Midway, and the fact they cost about the same, leads me to believe that the 20# model would be as crappy as the 10# model.

So, if anyone wants my crappy 10# model Lee Drip O Matic, I'll send it for the cost of postage.

It's filled with Lead though, and will ship as is.

Pete

kamikaze1a
09-24-2009, 04:05 PM
I like bottom pour better than lading because I don't have to deal with the dross floating on the suface as frequently. Also, production rate is greater with bottom pour.

As for the dripping, yes it's a problem but hanging some weight from the handle mimimizes the dripping because I think the valve rod is actually floating in the melt. The greater production rate outweighs having to deal with the dripping. Just be sure to keep pets and kids away as the drips sometime splash so be sure to wear jeans and shoes.

The adjustable pour rate of the Lee is a nice feature too. You can adjust to a slower rate when the pot is full and open it up as the melt level drops.

I find that using a propane torch to heat/melt the cold lead in the pot at startup shortens the waiting to pour time dramatically...

qajaq59
09-24-2009, 05:05 PM
I haven't done it because mine doesn't drip too bad. However, rather then clamping vise grips on it, I would think that if you replaced the little wooden handle with one made from lead it might not drip at all.

TNshawn
09-24-2009, 07:58 PM
So, if anyone wants my crappy 10# model Lee Drip O Matic, I'll send it for the cost of postage.
Pete

I am just starting out, I'll take a chance. PM sent.

Bret4207
09-25-2009, 07:41 AM
I haven't done it because mine doesn't drip too bad. However, rather then clamping vise grips on it, I would think that if you replaced the little wooden handle with one made from lead it might not drip at all.

I replaced mine with a hunk of steel square stock, hoping it would stop the drip. Nope, it still dripped. Maybe I got a lemon.

From the sounds of some of the posts here some people have never gotten the hang of ladle casting, just as I haven;t gotten the hang of BP casting.

sciguy
09-25-2009, 10:02 AM
Does the bottom pour apparatus of the Pro4-20 prevent the easy use of muffin sized ingots? We're talking about ~2.5" diameter by ~1.5" deep ingots.

Thanks again for all of the excellent information.

Hugh

rob45
09-25-2009, 10:21 AM
From the sounds of some of the posts here some people have never gotten the hang of ladle casting, just as I haven;t gotten the hang of BP casting.

I agree with that all the way. We get used to something based upon what we feel we need.

My first setup used an old double-boiler glue pot and a huge Swett ladle. It was large enough to pour ingots and was very awkward to pour molds. But at the time it was all I had, so somehow I made it work. I now have several different ladles, and every one of them pour differently. Two of the RCBS ladles have been drilled with a larger pour hole. The Rowell has had a boss added to the opposite side for the handle (because I am a lefty.)

Although it is possible to pour 1000+ pistol bullets in a session with a ladle, I certainly would not want to. By the same token, if I am casting for ultra-huge bullets or any long-for-caliber bullet, I will always use a ladle. I simply cannot get the proper flow out of the BP, unless I drill out the spout or get one of the $$ Magmas with interchangeable spouts.

What it all comes down to is the fact that everyone's needs are different. A rifle shooter will never need a bottom-pour pot unless they're shooting a lot. By the same token, while a pistol shooter can also use a ladle, he probably isn't going to be satisfied with the lower production. So we base our equipment on our individual needs, and adapt our methods to utilize that equipment. Just like shooting.:)

kamikaze1a
09-25-2009, 04:49 PM
Does the bottom pour apparatus of the Pro4-20 prevent the easy use of muffin sized ingots? We're talking about ~2.5" diameter by ~1.5" deep ingots.

Thanks again for all of the excellent information.

Hugh

I'm pretty sure 2 1/2 ingots will fit but if it doesn't, rest the ingot on the pot and melt the ingot into the pot with a propane torch. It will speed up your melt time too.

As for the handle material...the bracket that attaches to the factory wooden handle gets pretty hot so using material that is conductive may not be the best choice. Just hang an ounce or two of weights on the bracket or handle and it stops most (unfortunately not all) of the dripping...

fredj338
09-25-2009, 05:51 PM
Does the bottom pour apparatus of the Pro4-20 prevent the easy use of muffin sized ingots? We're talking about ~2.5" diameter by ~1.5" deep ingots.

Thanks again for all of the excellent information.

Hugh

No, the top is quite large. I feed mine w/ 2 1/2"X4"X1" ingots (+/-3#).

nonferrous
09-26-2009, 12:02 AM
The Lee 4-20 is a better piece of gear than I ever expected to get for 64.00, it puts out several hundred Boolits in a couple hours. If I do get a drip, it lands on the bottom plate of the stand and I just toss it back in the melt.
I keep the thermometer in the melt all the time so I know the temp and I find that it works best if you keep it half full or more.
Don't forget to flux and stir.

armyrat1970
09-26-2009, 06:50 AM
Yeah the Lee drips. No big deal if you keep something under the spout to catch the drip and then just drop it back into the melt. I have the Lee 10# and have used it for years. Just about worn out and want to get the 20# when I can get enough cash for it. I have always wondered about ladle casting as to getting some dross when pouring the boolits. Guess that's why I chose a bottom pour.
Don't know of any real trick to stopping the dripping from the Lee but it is not enough to bother me. The only fault I find with the 10# pot is once you add your sprues or drips back into it the temps drop a little. Maybe I wait a little to long to drop them back into the pot. Not really a big deal as it gives me enough time to take a break and drink a brew, and smoke a cig while waiting for the temps to get back up to where I cast at. Then I just start pouring bullets again. It is a little hard at times to set the mold under the spout to get it right but alot of that is my poor eyesight. Again, no big deal. Lee works well for the money spent. As I have found with all of their handloading tools.

GRid.1569
09-26-2009, 02:49 PM
OK I've not been doing this long but... is the Lee drip a myth?

I've gone a few melts / re-melts and the only drip I've had (so far) is when I'm stirring and I can feel the valve lifting as a result of impacts with the stirrer...

Spoke to soon... had a gusher on my hands for a few seconds today... no idea why, just filled a mold, sprued 'n' dropped to find about 2 inch wide half inch high mountain forming... good flow... quickly turned the valve stem and it stopped, hasn't happen again (yet)...

Thought I might have 3/4 pot of lead run over the bench...

Bret4207
09-27-2009, 09:48 AM
What till the 20 lbser does that while your back is turned.......

qajaq59
09-27-2009, 12:07 PM
What till the 20 lbser does that while your back is turned....... Those do bring a little excitement into your life, don't they? :bigsmyl2:

lurch
09-27-2009, 02:21 PM
I didn't see the question answered, but maybe I missed it.

The 4-20 can be used for ladle casting. I've just started casting some long .30's (311299 and 311284 that I got off a couple of really nice guys here) as well as a few 311466's and found that the bottom pour that I get good results with pistol type bullets was just not cutting it with the rifle boolits. On a lark I drug out my really ugly (previous owner had let it rust up quite badly) Lyman ladle, cleaned it up and tried it. I found it easy enough to use in the pot and the results were far superior in terms of number of keepers once I got the hang of it.

So, yes the 4-20 can be used to ladle from without a lot of hassle.

RoyRogers
09-27-2009, 09:49 PM
I have posted this before BUT.harbor freight has a router speed control $15 that controls voltage.I am using it on my old saeco.have tried it on lee and it works on both.by controling the voltage you control the resistance and heat.and it runs constant so there are no ups and downs in temp.
also a weight on the rod on lee will help on the pot.



All opinions welcome.

EDIT: Oops - I read the PID thread on Friday. I just found it again and saw most of my ? has been answered.

armyrat1970
09-30-2009, 08:13 AM
I have posted this before BUT.harbor freight has a router speed control $15 that controls voltage.I am using it on my old saeco.have tried it on lee and it works on both.by controling the voltage you control the resistance and heat.and it runs constant so there are no ups and downs in temp.
also a weight on the rod on lee will help on the pot.

Question? Isn't the temp control on the Lee resister controlled? Why would the Harbor Freight control make a difference? My Lee pot has a metal, not wood, handle that weighs around 1/3lb. That seems to be enough weight. It's just that for some reason the Lee pot at times drips. I don't think you could hang a 10lb weight on it and stop it. Well, maybe.:groner:

Mk42gunner
09-30-2009, 10:37 PM
I have 2 Lee bottom pour pots; a 10 pounder I paid ten bucks for at a pawn shop that was missing the valve rod and a twenty pounder that I bought new. I haven't really used the ten pound pot yet, but I have poured and ladled a lot of lead with the 20.

The valves are totally different between the two. I can easily ladle from the big one, while I think it would be a real pain in the neck to ladle from the 10.

Muffin ingots work well with the 20 lb Lee not so well with the 10. Ingots from 1 1/2" angle iron work with either pot.

The last time I cast bullets I ran about half a three pound coffee can of Lee's 312-185, bottom pouring and had 4 rejects. I should have bought a lottery ticket that day.


hope this helps,

Robert

sciguy
10-01-2009, 05:28 AM
In my boodk, there has been enough positive feedback to warrant going with the Pro 4-20 for now. I will keep a drip catcher large enough to catch the entire pot contents under the bottom pour spout and perhaps eventually upgrade to a PID controller if the temperature swings are too hard to deal with. The UPS trackers shows my unit arriving from Midway today along with several other goodies:)

Thanks for all of the great discussion, warnings, positive reviews .............

Hugh

eikeland
11-18-2009, 10:44 AM
Could someone please post the internal dimensions of the Lee Pro 4-20?
Thanks

sciguy
11-18-2009, 11:16 AM
Could someone please post the internal dimensions of the Lee Pro 4-20?
Thanks

The interior is almost exactly 4" wide as well as deep.

Hugh

blikseme300
11-18-2009, 09:14 PM
I have used the Lee pots for many years but the size bothered me so this is what I did....

17227

....built my own.

Bliksem

TAWILDCATT
11-18-2009, 09:52 PM
they all use make and break temp control its a bymetal strip that heats and opens.breaking the curcuit. the harbor control is a reostate and controls the voltage so the element is alwas on.
Oh and BRET: the lyman pot dissapered when saeco closed so I think saeco made the lyman.I bought the aluminum lyman pot you think you have troubles the lyman pot melted.and 20 lb went all over.I do believe the lyman and RCBS is related.I started with a lyman ladle in the 1937.and went to a gilbert toy caster
I modified based on the miller I saw in phil sharps book.I still have the gilbert pot.
very little I have got rid of in 76 yrs.the ladle was good on small molds pre WW2.
some of the casters clamp a vice grip on the lee rod.I think the leads weight lifts the rod.I even have a POTTER pot 3lb.

nonferrous
11-18-2009, 11:47 PM
I guess it's like anything else, for instance. If you do not like the intrusion of road noise into the cabin of your Ford Focus, or the cramped back seat, there is probably a Lexus Dealer not to far away that can make all the shortcomings go away.

I am sure that the same concept applies to loading gear, or bicycles or BBQ grills for that matter.

The main thing is to score those WW's and keep it flowing.