Help before I blow me up!

[Freightman]

Just found my father-in-laws lead furnace, been stuck back in a shed for 30+ years. I have tightened and replaced the leather and it will pump and hold pressure.
I have no idea on how to safety light it as the last time I saw it used was almost forty five years ago. Please help me get it started.
Here is what I am talking about a picture of all four sids

[shooterg]

Use the pot and another heat source !

[Freightman]

Good idea!

[Rocky Raab]

That appears to be a plumber's pot - from back when they used lead to seal cast-iron pipe joints.

It probably lights a lot like a Coleman lantern or stove, but I can't make out the controls well enough to give a startup checklist.

[Pepe Ray]

Liquid fuel does not burn/heat efficiently. It must be converted to a vapor/mist.
The old Coleman liquid fueled stuff did this. Look for a dish like piece that will take some of the liquid. This is where you light the small amount of liquid to use it to preheat (vaporize) the pressurized fuel as it passes thru the generator to the burner.
If your not sure , don't do it. Once you know how, every thing's easy.
Pepe Ray

[Bullshop]

Some of them old pots burned blazo (white gas) and some burned kerosene.
The jet will be different diameter for each.
If the flame reaches the ceiling with gas ya might try kerocene or #1 diesel
Blessings
BIC/BS

[TAWILDCATT]

get rid of it befor something bad happens.I had them and now have same thing with propane.use 20LB tank. if that leaks you will have a catastrafy.turkey fryers are cheap and better.

[David Caldwell]

+1 on getting the gasoline/kerosene choice correct. Check what's in it now.

Fill it 1/2 full and pump it about ten times. Crack open the valve, should hear a hiss; should see liquid fuel, if so close valve and light fuel. Just before fuel burns out, crack open valve again getting a little more liquid fuel burning and close valve. Repeat till burner is hot enough to vaporize fuel. Open valve, set flame height.

It may take more than ten pumps. Some valves have to be opened further than others before liquid fuel enters.

The gasoline types often won't have to be pumped again as the burner heats the tank and raises the vapor pressure of the fuel (scary thought, but efficient.) Some will require ocassional pumping (never with the pot atop, but you knew this.)

Right below the orifice and burner plate is usually a small, circular well that holds the liquid fuel while the burner is warming up; the kerosene versions usually have an asbestos wick in the well. You can pre-heat the burner by putting lighter fluid in this well and lighting it, then open the valve after the burner gets hot.

Does the above seem to fit with your stove?

dac

[45nut]

looks exactly like the one I just got,, those directions will come in handy here David,, thanks!

[wills]

There are people who collect and even restore old gasoline blow torches. You might to a search for one of their boards. They might be able to provide useful information. For all we know there could be plumbers pot collectors.

[geargnasher]

If you can salvage it and make it work safely (shouldn't be too hard) it will heat like the dickens and be cheap to run compared to propane, plus you can fill it yourself each time you start and won't run out in mid smelt. I have a Coleman single burner (lantern base with range burner on top instead of lantern unit) and it works great with White Gas, much hotter than propane. I use it for smelting small batches with a 1 pint cast iron pot.

Gear

[Le Loup Solitaire]

There are websites on Blowtorches and similarly related devices. One good one of them is titled "Zango Bob's..... and he has a complete outline/proceedures for dealing with these appliances. I have a collection of torches and and somewhat familiar with the drill. Some of the advice so far is correct. The first thing to determine is whether the apparatus is safe...mainly that there is/are no leak(s). It can be safely tested for that using water and pumping up some pressure....if the pump is working ok. You can also use some White or Lead Free gasoline, but don't put a lot in the tank.***** If there is any leakage from anywhere----STOP.***** End of road until leaks are well fixed. If no leaks then when under some pressure and the valve is opened, a small amount of gas will drip into the priming cup. Shut valve and light the small pool of gas in the priming cup. By the time it has burned dry, the remining gas in the vaporization chamber which is right above the priming cup will be ready--vaporized... to light. Then you put a lighted match in front of the valve and open it slightly; then regulate/set flame volume by adjusting valve. DON'T fill fuel reservoir too high...never more than half and DON'T pump up too much pressure---7 or 8 strokes should be enough. If the pump is not feeling like it is doing its job(building up a bit of resistance) then it isn't!!!!!...shut everything down and when things are cold, unscrew pump top and you will find that part of it is a leather washer. That has to be kept well oiled. If it is dry then do it with any kind of oil. If it is ragged, torn or worn away it is a simple matter to cut a new one out of some scrap leather. When oiled it will swell a little and should be a close fit in the pump cylinder. If you can get the pot working it will do good work for you. When cold you then can clean it up some with some steel wool so you can better keep an eye on various parts and joints. Priming the torch with lighter fluid is a good idea too if you want to do it that way, but if your main valve is ok it will work that way as it is supposed to. Good luck with your pot & enjoy casting. LLS

[Bret4207]

I have one I use that's very similar, if not identical. I've gone the short route and preheat the coil with a propane torch. THESE ARE OUTSIDE TOYS!!!!! Once it's lit off you should have a blue flame about 2" across and almost a foot high. Don't be afraid to add Seafoam or Berrymans B-12 or other "carb cleaner" to the tank. These things varnish up just like any other gasoline appliance or fuel system. There is nothing quite so nice as smelting down a bunch of WW on $.30 worth of gasoline, rather than using $3.00 worth of propane.

Personally, I still make good use of my gasoline blowtorch and plumbers furnace. Yes, they can be a bit scary till you get used to them. Dealing with them is just part of the life of a hairy chested he-man.......

[geargnasher]

We won't mention any of your recent woodcutting or horsefeeding adventures..........:holysheep

Gear

Drat! foiled again! no "hairy-chested he-man redneck" smilie :-(

[Bret4207]

Blood and pain are the hallmarks of hairy chested he-manliness.........

[dolang1]

Freightman, that is a neat old treasure. Let me know when you are going to mess with it. I'm in Oklahoma City and I'll walk outside and watch for that orange glow in the west. Later Don

[kevbo]

Don't be afraid to add Seafoam or Berrymans B-12 or other "carb cleaner" to the tank. These things varnish up just like any other gasoline appliance or fuel system.

You can get some varnish if you run motor fuel. White gas, AKA "Coleman fuel" tends not to create any varnish. I have a camping stove that I think my dad got from my grandpa. It has worn out three generators (rusted through) that I know of, but has never, to my knowledge, had any varnish issues.

Most of the gas blowtorches and lead pots I've seen don't use a generator tube directl in the flame. Instead, the burner has a shroud (of various designs) that is designed to conduct heat back to the plumbing ahead of the jet. The generator doesn't run all that hot with these designs, so the heavier components don't vaporize, and you get varnish.

The "dual fuel" appliances that Coleman rates for use with either white gas or unleaded motor fuel use a stainless steel generator tube that runs a might hotter than the old mild steel generators would take...the better to vaporize the varnish forming compounds. With a jet change these will also work with kerosene or diesel fuel.

There was no point to doing that in the old days, as the the motor fuel also had lead, and so varnish was the least of the worries.