Need opinions

[outdoorfan]

I have a LBT 300 grain .452 WFN that I'm thinking about having the gas check shank removed on to turn it into to a plain base. The gas check shank is .080 long from the bottom of the boolit to the bottom of the next driving band. Also, if I had the entire shank bored out, then the new bottom drive band would be about .17.

The big if is:

If I get this done, will that singular smallish lube groove hold enough lube to do what it needs do when the boolit is being driven to 1200-1300 with H110 out of a Blackhawk? This is assuming a quality lube and a smooth bore.

[runfiverun]

or you could just get a 452664 and have a larger grooved 250 gr rnfp p/b boolit, with the right sized driving band.
or you could have part of the g/c removed and the driving band lengthed too.
out of a b-hawk you should have enough lube to do the job there.

[outdoorfan]

[QUOTE=runfiverun;656595]
or you could have part of the g/c removed
QUOTE]


That's another idea. I wonder what the functional minimum is for a bottom driving band? Let's say that .060 of that .080 was removed, still leaving a tiny lube groove.

[crabo]

You could probably sell that mold and buy one you like pretty easy for the sale price and modifications that you have done.

[runfiverun]

ive used some pretty thin ones,but not under near the stress a casull will give.
i think if i had a friend with a mill type thing i'd have the g/c removed first then see how that goes.
but i like a good driving band,it just seems to work better under stress.

[beagle]

Just happen to have a extra 452664 DC for sale./beagle

[outdoorfan]

R5R: Keep in mind these aren't being pushed to Casual velocities and pressures.

Beagle: If I recall you had a 358156 bare-bottomed that still ran fine at magnum velocites. I don't think that lube groove is any bigger than the one on this LBT.

I want to stay in the 300 grain range, and I like the meplat on the LBT's.

[outdoorfan]

You could probably sell that mold and buy one you like pretty easy for the sale price and modifications that you have done.


I got this mold off of Veral's "sale list". I'm not interested in selling it. It won't cost much to alter it. I just want to know if the experts here think it's doable. I asked Veral already, but I value your opinions, as well.

[felix]

The balance of the boolit will be altered. LBT noses can be long because he makes them suit the gun that the boolit was ordered for leaving plenty of case capacity. Usually revolters. His boolits like speed, typically because of the nose length. The implication is the back of the boolit needs all of the weight possible. So, if cutting off the check, I would prefer not to cut off the check, but instead enlongate the last base band, leaving a small lube groove somewhere within. Just a small triangle groove would be fine for most applications. ... felix

[outdoorfan]

So, if cutting off the check, I would prefer not to cut off the check, but instead enlongate the last base band, leaving a small lube groove somewhere within. Just a small triangle groove would be fine for most applications. ... felix


So, if I am understanding this, you would make that whole check shank into a bottom band being merged with the first band above the shank, minus a small lube groove of .010 or .020?

[mike in co]

or you could just shoot it without a gc in place....

i do it all the time...they shoot well....would you believe better the with the gc in place ??

mike in co

[outdoorfan]

or you could just shoot it without a gc in place....

i do it all the time...they shoot well....would you believe better the with the gc in place ??

mike in co


Veral did say that I should at least try doing that. I can't hardly imagine holding the same accuracy, so what you're saying is amazing.

[runfiverun]

if i back downmy 41 with the lyman mold it shoots better too i just can't do it at full tilt.
beaglee got what i was saying i just didn't think about the extra groove for lube..
a full driving band that size is not a handicap.

[44man]

or you could just shoot it without a gc in place....

i do it all the time...they shoot well....would you believe better the with the gc in place ??

mike in co
You lose boolit drive length without the check and a new workup with loads is needed. Also you are in the same territory as a bevel base where accuracy is poor. Some boolits will shoot but many will not, even to the point of tumbling.

[O.S.O.K.]

Why the desire to lose the gas check?

If its the cost of getting them, then you might consider getting one of the custom gas check maker dies - you can then make them for free from beverage cans.

[outdoorfan]

Why the desire to lose the gas check?

If its the cost of getting them, then you might consider getting one of the custom gas check maker dies - you can then make them for free from beverage cans.


The cost is certainly a factor, but it's also about eliminating one more component and the steps it takes to obtain it/them. In a smooth barrel, a plain base will work just fine. I'm really tempted to just have it done and see what happens. But I'm not ready to take that dive quite yet.

[44man]

The cost is certainly a factor, but it's also about eliminating one more component and the steps it takes to obtain it/them. In a smooth barrel, a plain base will work just fine. I'm really tempted to just have it done and see what happens. But I'm not ready to take that dive quite yet.
Cost is crazy! I am making more and of my boolit molds for PB and they shoot just great.
Here are my last 3, a 45-70 at 385 gr, a .45 at 330 gr and my .475 at 420 gr. All shoot good and I shot a deer at 76 yards with the .45 boolit last season.
Notice I am not fussy about bands and grease grooves, just what looks OK.
My next will be for the .44 when I find some time. No need for those expensive disks that cost as much as a jacketed bullet anymore.

[44man]

I found the wrong picture. I have a better one of the three boolits.
A few on the first might be wrong, I have labels on pictures that are too close.