New member, help choosing a mold TC Omega .50cal

[AJ Peacock]

Hi all, new user here from SE Michigan.

Although I've shot 100's of thousands of cast bullets (did serious cowboy action shooting for several years), I've never cast a single bullet.

I've decided that it's something I want to try and figured I'd start by deciding on a first mold. I have a friend that has all kinds of casting equipment and will help me get started.

I have 2 muzzleloaders, they are both .50's. One is a TC Hawken and the other is an inline TC Omega. The Omega has a 1-24 twist and I've tried numerous sabot bullets and although they all shoot OK, I haven't fell in love with any of the loads (not to mention the expense!). The Hawken always shot everything pretty well.

I've become interested in the R.E.A.L. bullets and was wondering what you all think of them for these rifles? Or if you have any recommendations, my friend has some minie ball molds.

Thanks,
AJ

[Underclocked]

I would try some full bore conicals in that Omega before buying a mold. Omega rifles are not known generally as good conical shooters (but there are exceptions). The R.E.A.L. would probably shoot nicely out of the Hawken and might be a good experiment bullet for the Omega.

[jim4065]

My Omega sure doesn't shoot conicals worth squat. You may have to find a good sabot load and use it just a few times a year. Have fun with the Hawken..........;)

[Geraldo]

REALs work very well in my .50 1:48" TC Hawken, but not as well out of a .45 1:28" GM barrel. The same GM barrel shoots PRB way better than it should, so don't rule anything out until you try it.

[Hurricane]

The REAL bullet comes in two sizes for 50 caliber (250 grain and 350 grain). If your Omega has trouble with conicals, the shorter REAL bullet might be the best choice. Even better, see if you can get a few of each size from someone on this board. Trade them something they need for the bullets if you can.

[northmn]

You mentioned being a Cowboy shooter so I am going to make the follwoing suggestion. Sell the Omega to buy mold for the Hawken. While I do admit to being somewhat of a die hard traditionalist there are logical reasons for this choice. The Hawken was has been critisized as being a rifle using a comprimise twist. In my observations it may not win a bench match with round ball but they have done Ok in other matches. A lot of deer have been taken with REALS and MAXI BAll out of the rifle. They did a good job on comprimise. You can buy other barrels for it so that if you really get hooked you can get a small game barrel, a dedicated roundball barrel or a 40 cal target barrel. As you stated about modern ammo for a muzzleloader, it is way overpriced. Also the Hawken does give you a taste of doing things the way the old timers did. Round ball make good bullets, are cheap to shoot, and contrary to the modern ads are not that "messy" if you use some of the prelubed patches. They are cheaper yet if you use store bought patching and lube as you shoot. You can even use spit. A TC usually takes a 490 and .015 patching although some have had good luck with a 495. You can buy swaged ball to try. It will also shoot the lighter REAL bullet or the MAXI whcih ist was designed for. There are also other bullets. Price a new Hawken sometime as compared to a Omega.

Northmn

[Maven]

Northmn's Maxi-Ball suggestion is a good one, as I've yet to see a bbl., regardless of twist or caliber, in which they didn't fit and shoot accurately. Sorry to say, I can't say the same for the REAL's. However, if they cast large enough to fit your bbl., they can be as accurate as Maxi-Balls.

[AJ Peacock]

Thanks for all the input guys.

I've taken whitetails with my Hawken (I've had it for 20 years). I got the Omega because I'm starting to have a little trouble with open sights at dawn/dusk and I couldn't/wouldn't put a scope on the Hawken.

I ordered the 320gr REAL with the combo roundball. I figured they would both shoot in the hawken well (it shoot's RB's and Maxi's very well). I have a suspicion that the tight twist in the Omega will shoot the big REAL OK as long as I don't push it too hard.

I will see.

Thanks again,
AJ

[mooman76]

The REALs have rounded edges and not much surface touching the inside barrel of guns. I suspect that is why they don't shoot as good(sometimes) if pushed too hard or work well in the inlines with the real tight twists. There are exceptions of coarse. I couldn't get them to shoot that great in my inline but did excellent in my Hawkin. They did however shoot good enough in my inline to get me in the kill zone on a deer with their limited range.

[northmn]

Just as a thought but has anyone ever tried beabling the REAL molds. I have had some luck doing that to make 30 cal fit my 303 Brit.

Northmn

[mooman76]

Never even thought of it myself. Mine fit snug and I get a sore palm after awhile knocking them down the bore. Every gun is different though and I'm sure some would benifit.

[10 ga]

BRP, a "cast boolit" sponsor, has a mold for 300 and 400 grain boolits for the sabots. The 300 should do fine, it does for me. They also have the 250 grain T/C clone which may be OK in both guns, certainly in the hawken. Both of my 48 twist guns shoot RB and maxi hunters real good. Have a Firehawk inline that shoots sabots like a Kalifornia house fire(that means hot). You might look on the swap or pay it forward forums to get some to try. I won't have time to cast anything until late in Oct. but could send you some if you send me a PM with contact info. Yeah, I had to get a gun with glass on it to see too, also put "fire sights" on all my hammer guns. Why don't you put some "fire sights" on your Hawken, it could make a big difference. It did for me. 10 ga

[Willbird]

First things first the Omega has a 1/28 twist not 1/24. The Savage 110ml is one gun that has a 1/24 that I know of.

I had not shot any bore sized bullets or any BP in my Omega at all. Well today I dusted off a REAL mold I had been meaning to try out, got it used in some stuff, it is the lighter one.

I cast a dozen from some WW that were in my pot (I know that is maybe too hard an alloy for REAL bullets) half arsed finger lubed some with some TC bore butter, fired one fouler.

Then shot a 5 shot group over 60 grains of goex fffg lit off by a WW small pistol primer in variflame adaptors...

looks like a 3" group at 75 yards...

For everything I did WRONG there.....

Too hard an alloy (probably)
Not filling the grease grooves fully with lube
Not cleaning between shots
Cold and windy out there :-)
Powder charge selection based on having enough powder in there for the ramrod to touch the bullet when it was seated.......
Not trying really hard to properly warm the mold up and get PERFECT bullets...

I was not unhappy really :-). Those imperfect bullets cast up on a lark shoot as good as power belts do in that gun :-).

Not nearly as good as $1 plus each jacketed bullets in sabots launched by 50 cent powder charges and 5 cent primers, but it is a 15 cent powder charge (goex is $18 retail for me) and a 2-1/2 cent primer. Overall about 18 cents a shot vs upwards of $1.50 per shot. Plus I'm sure some refinement can improve things.