Lawn tractor wheel weights.

[hoosierlogger]

I have an idea that I dont know if anyone else has done it or not. If some one has done it, let me know how it turned out.


I acquired a set of cast iron wheel weights for my lawn tractor. They weigh a measly 25 pounds each. I was trying to figure out how I can add more weight to the rear tires without fluid filling the tires. Well the other day it came to me. Why not fill the inside of the rear wheels with lead. Not the inside of the tire, but the back of the rim. The axle would hold it in so it couldnt possibly fall out. And Ill bet I can get at least 50 pounds of lead into each rim, and if I do it right I could still bolt the cast WW on the outside of the wheel. That would in turn be a massive gain of 150 LBS of very low center of gravity weight.


The question I am having is should I strip the paint off of the wheel before I pour in the lead, or will it hurt anything, or make it harder to remove later down the road? I plan on pushing snow and mowing on steep grades with it. Anything to coat the wheel with to help the lead "release" from the "mold"?

I have tractor lug tires on it now as the stock tires wouldnt get enough grip to get me back to the top of the hill around my pond without me getting off holding the seat down and pushing the mower to the top. Now I can pop thew clutch and pull about a 4' wheelie on the slope in 6 th gear with dry grass. But I still want more traction for damp grass.

[briang]

I'd leave the paint on, since you don't need to worry about surface quality on the lead it shouldn't hurt anything (as long as you don't breath the burning paint fumes). It should act as a half decent release agent as well. You are planning on removing the tires right?

[454PB]

Are you going to be able to change tires once this is done?

Tire changing machines need to grip the wheel rim.

I once filled a microphone stand base with lead for stability.....I was able to pour 25 pounds of lead in the hollow base. However, because it was made of cast iron, I had to drill and tap three holes in it and install 5/16" bolts for the lead to grasp. I then preheated the casting well and poured in the lead. It was like one solid piece when finished.

[hornsurgeon]

454 is right on. i have made tractor wheel weights. there are 2 methods i have used. forst step for either is to weld up any openings, making a solid bowl. if the weights are permanent, weld bolts, chain links, large washers, etc to the inside of the bowl for the lead to mold onto. if you want it removeable, all edges must be filled/smoothed for dropout (just like leementing). then you must heat the lead to pouring temp and also heat the bols at the same time. pour in the lead, drink a beer, and come back in the morning. if the weights are to be removeable, drill 3-4 holes thru the lead and rim, then weld nuts on the back side of the rim to bolt the weight onto.

[lurch]

I remember my father drilling a hole in the tires of an old Gravley walk behind (those things will either make a man out of you or kill you in the process over uneven ground...) and filling the tires up with concrete. More weight, no flats to worry about. Lead is for shootin'...

[briang]

Might be a good use for zinc weights, I'm sure we can come up with enough of 'em. :sad:

[Reverend Recoil]

You could make a polymer grout by mixing sand with polyester resin. This type of resin is used for fiberglass boat repair. Polyester grout is easily mixed, troweled, and will bond to steel. Density is about 125 lb/cubic foot. Scrap metal can be mixed in for extra weight. Epoxy resin does the same thing but costs more and is a little more difficult to mix and trowel.

[hoosierlogger]

I plan on them being removable. There are two holes in the rim for the cast iron WW to bolt on. I was planning on putting a full thread bolt through each one of them and securing it with a nut on the side that will hold the lead. The lead will get poured around the bolt so I can put a washer and another nut to hold it to the rim. If I need to take the lead out of the rim I can zip the bolt out with an impact and re melt it.

Briang, Yes I plan on removing the tires and valve stems. And I want maximum weight for this project.

I will post pics of the process as soon as I get some more soft lead and propane.


454, Yes the tires actually go on and off lawn mower rims pretty easily with tire spoons and lots of soap.

[WILCO]

Lead is for shootin'...

Indeed!!

[Hardcast416taylor]

hoosierlogger. After you have the wheel weights you could fill the tubes in the wheel with beet juice like the farm implement places do for added weight.Robert

[KCSO]

We did this for my neighbor the gas station owner AFTER for the use of my smelter. You are right on track here and it will work fine.

[Farmall 1066]

Hoosierlogger, I'm with you, but have a question. What make and model is this? Hydrostatic drive? If so there are drivetrain issues you might want to consider. You could always just fill the tires with used antifreeze.
On the models with the wheels retained with snap rings, these will tend to come off when the weighted wheels are used, along with other long term damage.
Years of farming, tractorpulling and mechanicing have taught me that tire slippage is the "fuse" in the drivetrain.
Andy

[hoosierlogger]

Hoosierlogger, I'm with you, but have a question. What make and model is this? Hydrostatic drive? If so there are drivetrain issues you might want to consider. You could always just fill the tires with used antifreeze.
On the models with the wheels retained with snap rings, these will tend to come off when the weighted wheels are used, along with other long term damage.
Years of farming, tractorpulling and mechanicing have taught me that tire slippage is the "fuse" in the drivetrain.
Andy


It is a belt driven Craftsman LT 4200 with gears in the rear end. It does have e clips on the axles. I suppose I could drill and tap the axle shaft and use a bolt and washer like the MTD produced mowers use. I put the cast iron wheel weights on it, But I still want more weight to lower the center of gravity on the hills.

[Farmall 1066]

You'll have quite a time drilling tose axles, Hoosier. They are hardened.
The axles in that only have 1 bearing on the outobard ends. The inner end rides on bushings, and most of the gears ion the newer machines are made of sintered (powdered) metal.
On the plus side, it's belt drive, so you have that to break before other things might fail.

I'm probably just overcautious, but my 1967 Cub Cadet is so overbuilt, it's kinda prejudiced me!

Take care.

Andy

[Speedo66]

Didn't people used to fill the tires with calcium?

[badgeredd]

Didn't people used to fill the tires with calcium?

Yes, they sure did and the reason they "used to" is that the stuff will corode your wheels and anything else it gets on in a New York minute. Now there is an envirometally friend juice they use. Stinks to high heaven though. Hoosierlogger said he didn't want to fill his tires. My tire dealer said that he has seen far fewer problems with bolt on weight than filled tires.

Edd