Aluminum Moulds

[FISH4BUGS]

OK....I admit it....I am a casting snob. I have collected a number of Hensley & Gibbs moulds and that is pretty much all I cast with. I have been spoiled. The only non H&G mould I have is a 358156 Lyman.
I have been looking for a 4 cavity H&G 51 (plain based) for a long time and couldn't find one. I finally bought a used group buy 358156 plain base Lee mould.
What are the differences in casting with aluminum vs. steel (meehanite) moulds? What should I look out for? Any tips would be most appreciated.
Regards,
Donald in NH

[high standard 40]

My aluminum Lee molds like to run on the hot side. The 6 cavity molds tend to hold the heat better and are not quite as picky. Your mold is used so you need to find out if it has been tuned. Check the cavities for burrs at the part lines and make sure it is squeaky clean. Pre-heat and start casting. With practice, it will tell you what it needs.

[FISH4BUGS]

My aluminum Lee molds like to run on the hot side. The 6 cavity molds tend to hold the heat better and are not quite as picky. Your mold is used so you need to find out if it has been tuned. Check the cavities for burrs at the part lines and make sure it is squeaky clean. Pre-heat and start casting. With practice, it will tell you what it needs.

The fellow I bought it from (a member here on the CBB) said "....I have leemented it with a brass screw for the pivot point and dehorned it. " I think that means it has been worked over.
I am looking forward to using this in my 38's and the Rossi 92 rifle. It should be a good bullet to shoot with.
Thanks for the tip on running hotter. I take it that if not run hotter it will produce wrinkled bullets just like the others do? Too hot and they are frosted (not that I don't care for frosted bullets).
What about durability? Logic tells me that these aluminum moulds are not as durable as steel. I guess you just can't beat them like a rented mule.

[Wayne Smith]

Logic tells me that these aluminum moulds are not as durable as steel. I guess you just can't beat them like a rented mule.

Exactly. Even the much dispised Lee 2 cavity molds last if treated gently. If you don't have some Bullplate Sprue Lube get some. It is very useful for all molds but almost essential for the soft alumunium molds (read Lee). Get your mold up to temp prior to pouring, the sprue cuts easily with no slamming or banging. If you don't get it up to temp first you can break the sprue handle without cutting the sprue (don't ask).

Treat it gently and enjoy the results.

[O.S.O.K.]

OK, I know what you mean about the Lee aluminum molds - they look cheap as well, you know. I tend to favor Lyman and RCBS molds which are head and shoulders over Lee's for quality. They also repeat better (don't have to tap them to get the mold to line up and close completely) and hold the heat more steady.

However, I just received a Lee 310 .430 mold from midway ( a whopping $20 for mold and handles) and proceded to cast some excellent quality .433" (as cast) boolits with it. It quite simply did an excellent job. Very few rejects. And this is the two-cavity mold...

I loaded these into some RP cases over 21 Grains of H110 with CCI 350 primers and proceded to the range with a new-to-me Marlin 94 where I shot a nice grouping of 2 3/4" at 100 yards with the large aperture XS sights mounted on this carbine.

That exceeded my expectations frankly. I did not weigh the boolits to group them and sized them to .431" in a Lee bottom feed sizing die that I lapped out to enlarge.

Yes, this mold is quite homely and appears crude but it is apparently correct and quality enough in all of the right ways... and I can buy 8 of them for the same price as the top line molds.

The design of the boolit is also first rate for hunting - the application that I want to put them to.

http://www.gunsnet.net/album/data//500/Lee310-431.jpg

Quality is as quality does to paraphrase Forrest Gump. :)

[theperfessor]

The two things that will help prolong the life of a Lee mold:

(1) Sit mold down on something flat when you close it, and close it gently. This takes a lot of wear off the alignment rod seats in the one and two cavity versions.

(2) Use BullPlate lube.

[1Shirt]

Have a lot of Lyman Molds, a lot of Lee Molds, a few RCBS, a couple of Ohas, and a couple of Herters. They all do their jobs well enough for me. As to lee, I have about 5 of the Lee Ranch Dogs, and they are all shooters in my book. My 375H&H, will stay around 2" with the 250 Lee, or the 235 Ranch Dog all day, and both cast like a dream. Ya, they arn't the prettiest molds in the world, but they work fine for me. Just ran 1700 358s in a 6 cav lee that worked just fine. Lee molds are kind of like a plain woman or even an ugly one who has a whale of a personality. You can forget the looks as long as there is performance.
1Shirt!:coffeecom

[TAWILDCATT]

from remarks around the web Lyman are not as good as they used to be.I like the lees I have mostly 6 cavity but I too have lyman,MB,lee,herter,and win, rem,
take care of them and they will last for yrs.:coffee:[smilie=1:

[armyrat1970]

The two things that will help prolong the life of a Lee mold:

(1) Sit mold down on something flat when you close it, and close it gently. This takes a lot of wear off the alignment rod seats in the one and two cavity versions.

(2) Use BullPlate lube.

Okay. I am forced to ask now. Have read other post about BullPlate lube. What exactly is so good about BullPlate that sets it above any other mold lube? I use Alox Beeswax and never had a problem with it unless I apply to much. What is the big thing about BullPlate that sets it above the rest? I am not trying to be smart here, I just really want to know.

[theperfessor]

BullPlate provides lubrication across a broad temperature range and does not "gum up" with use. It also prevents lead from sticking to top of mold and bottom of sprue plate. In fact, it will even remove pre-existing lead smears from a mold with use. It allows you cut the sprue off sooner, which reduces the stress on the sprue plate parts and shortens the cycle time, increasing production. And it prolongs the life of your molds (Lee especially).

There may be other products that work as well - some folks here swear by various brands of antisieze compounds - but BullPlate is so cheap and easy to use and does such a fine job that I use it exclusively now for all my casting. And its economical too - just a couple drops applied with a Q-tip is good for hundreds of cycles.

I am not connected to the folks who sell this product, simply a former skeptic turned believer after having tried it based on other people's advice. Unlike other products used by casters, (lubes, etc.) I have never read any negative comments about BullPlate.

[Wayne Smith]

Ditto what the Perfessor said, and also you can make a good high speed lube with nothing but Sprue Plate Lube and beeswax. Can't beat that.

[watkibe]

I've never owned anything but a Lee mold, so I can't comment on how they compare with steel molds from other manufacturers. But I have had almost a dozen Lee molds for over 20 years, and here's what I do know:

Aluminum doesn't rust, so I never have to oil the molds when I put them away, or degrease them when I want to use them.
A nice thin coat of carbon (soot) is all that's needed to make the bullets fill out and drop out of the mold.
The first bullet of a casting session is usually good, because the molds warm up quickly.
Like so much of reloading, there is some technique involved. I pay attention when closing the mold so that everything lines up and it closes correctly. Many Lee products are designed so that they "float" and self-center themselves. They might look like they are a sloppy fit, but they are made to line themselves up, if you let them.
I have never worn out a mold, although I have broken 2 handles, and I hate it when the cheap little ferrules come loose. But when the whole mold costs less than Lyman handles (!) I can hardly complain. I made a new handle for one that worked well, and the other one wore a duct tape repair for years with no problem.

I couldn't afford to shoot and reload without Lee products. With any tool, the very best quality tool may work twice as well as an average tool, but will cost 3 to 5 times as much. Professionals can buy the very best because the tools last longer, and in the long run are cheaper. So far, I am thankfully not a professional bullet caster !

[armyrat1970]

Thanks for the replies. All I have are Lee molds. Single cavity in 8x57 and double cavity in 30Carbine, 357 and 45ACP. Dropped my 45 mold a few weeks back but worked with it enough to still get some good as cast boolits from it. Good enough for target shooting anyway. I have to be really careful when closing my 357 mold or it will not close square. My 8x57 and 30carbine drop good boolits. The Lee Alox works okay unless, as I stated, I use a little to much. Sometimes it seems to gum up a little if my mold is to cold but when it is hot it works well.

[Echo]

AR1970, you are a prime candidate for some BullPlate. The Lee 2-bangers will occasionally hang up when closed. Some BullPlate on the positioning features, and maybe a close inspection for bitty burrs, should have the .357 mold behaving.

[armyrat1970]

AR1970, you are a prime candidate for some BullPlate. The Lee 2-bangers will occasionally hang up when closed. Some BullPlate on the positioning features, and maybe a close inspection for bitty burrs, should have the .357 mold behaving.

Well. Looks like I may have to try it. I know it's sold somewhere on this forum. Can someone give me a link?

[HORNET]

Look further down this page to the Shootin' Links and click on 'The Bullshop'. Better get a couple of bottles, I hear they're easy to spill.

[44man]

I have one complaint about Bullplate.----The CAP on the bottle! :sad:
The stuff creeps out like it is alive and gets all over the outside.
I am trying to figure out what animal he distills to get the lube, he never killed the sucker! [smilie=l:[smilie=l:

[45 2.1]

I have one complaint about Bullplate.----The CAP on the bottle! :sad:
The stuff creeps out like it is alive and gets all over the outside.
Jim, you gotta remember its not a child proof cap, you need to screw it back on tight. :kidding:;)
I am trying to figure out what animal he distills to get the lube, he never killed the sucker! You are quite correct about that........ and its very good stuff. Get you some.

[686]

too cast bullets you need 4 things.

a pot
a mold
lead
AND BULL PLATE LUBE.

you must have all 4. oh the lube that leaks out around the cap is the auto leak to wipe your q-tip on. that way you do not have to open the bottle. that stuf is better than having a 57 chevy.

[ph4570]

I have tried and used many different mold lubes -- wax, a few different high temp anti-seize compounds, some vehicle oil treatments etc.

Some time ago, on a whim I tried some Husqvarna 2-cycle chain saw oil (for mixing with he gas). It worked the best by far. After joining this fine group I saw many passages touting the bull plate lube. I finally got a couple of jugs. It works as well as the Husqvarna. Maybe it works better but I have not observed it.

[armyrat1970]

Look further down this page to the Shootin' Links and click on 'The Bullshop'. Better get a couple of bottles, I hear they're easy to spill.

Thanks Rick. I may have to put it into a different bottle to avoid that problem.

[theperfessor]

I'd like to find a bottle with a dauber in the top that will withstand mold temperatures, kind of like a liniment bottle or felt tip marker. That way you could apply BullPlate directly from the bottle w/o using a Q-tip and it wouldn't spill out if you knocked it over.

Just a thought...

[44man]

Reminds me of the old folks that went to the doctor for ******. They went home and tried the left hand, then the right hand until they were both worn out. They got the neighbor lady over and she tried the left hand, then the right hand and nothing worked. They went back to the doctor and explained, he was aghast that they got the neighbor woman over too.
Yup, the old fella said, none of us could get the cap off the bottle! :bigsmyl2:

[theperfessor]

I hear that!

[Ugluk]

I have tried and used many different mold lubes -- wax, a few different high temp anti-seize compounds, some vehicle oil treatments etc.

Some time ago, on a whim I tried some Husqvarna 2-cycle chain saw oil (for mixing with he gas). It worked the best by far. After joining this fine group I saw many passages touting the bull plate lube. I finally got a couple of jugs. It works as well as the Husqvarna. Maybe it works better but I have not observed it.

This is excellent! Bullplate is not readily available here in Sweden, but Husqvarna 2-stroke oil certainly is.
Time to boil the beeswax off the Lee's and start getting round boolits..
Thanks!

[ph4570]

Ugluk,

Apply it with the mold hot and filled after cutting off the sprue. Do not apply too close to the cavity edges. Apply to pins and sprue plate pivot. I use a toothpick to apply to the pivot and a Q-tip elsewhere. If you get some too close just use a Q-tip with alcohol to clean it up.

Let me know how it works for you. Keep it away from the sprue plate holes.

[Ugluk]

Will try it in a few days and let you know how it works. Thanks for advice on applying also.
Cheers

[armyrat1970]

Reminds me of the old folks that went to the doctor for ******. They went home and tried the left hand, then the right hand until they were both worn out. They got the neighbor lady over and she tried the left hand, then the right hand and nothing worked. They went back to the doctor and explained, he was aghast that they got the neighbor woman over too.
Yup, the old fella said, none of us could get the cap off the bottle! :bigsmyl2:

Gonna have to remember that one.[smilie=l:

[Ugluk]

I've tried the 2-stroke oil, and it seems to work well. Sparingly applied with a q-tip on the hot mold gave sufficient lubrication for a run of 1200 boolits.
Didn't do anything for the ovalness of the boolits though, still .360 along the parting line and .364 across it. I'm gonna examine the guide pins and seats real closely next time.

Thanks for the tip on the oil, definately less messy than beeswax.

Cheers

[madsenshooter]

A trip down the bore will make them nice and round. It appears to that out of roundness is a common problem with Lee molds, still some of them shoot well.

[Ugluk]

I size them down to a perfectly round .358 anyway , and they do shoot well, but the struggle towards perfection must continue..

Otherwise it wouldn't be a hobby, but a mere chore..

[ph4570]

I've tried the 2-stroke oil, and it seems to work well. Sparingly applied with a q-tip on the hot mold gave sufficient lubrication for a run of 1200 boolits.
Didn't do anything for the ovalness of the boolits though, still .360 along the parting line and .364 across it. I'm gonna examine the guide pins and seats real closely next time.

Thanks for the tip on the oil, definately less messy than beeswax.

Cheers


Glad to hear the 2-cycle oil works for you.

BTW, I have made many trips to Sweden. Most of my time was spent on Gotland.

[Ugluk]

Glad to hear the 2-cycle oil works for you.

BTW, I have made many trips to Sweden. Most of my time was spent on Gotland.

I hope you enjoyed your visits, Gotland is beutiful and rich with medival history. Went there with my folks a few times as a kid.
Thanks again for the idea of 2-stroke oil.
Cheers