How to make Stock Weights

[garandsrus]

Hi,

Any suggestions on how to make some of these stock weights (http://www.md-supplies.com/buttstockbars.html)?

My guess would be that I would need some aluminum or steel bar stock that can be ground flat, clamped together, and then bored out. The flat part on the end can be filed/cut, so that's not a problem. This isn't a real precision undertaking!

If I could find the right size, would some type of pipe work as a die or would the molded lead be too hard to push out?

I would like to make 4 or 5 sets of these. I think the price per set is about $20.

I have filled the butstock with #9 shot, but I would like to put a molded weight in to add some more weight.

Thanks!
John

[carpetman]

Waksupi's stock(sheep)don't need weight. They have a pretty heavy load to carry.

[redneckdan]

I think shot would be more effective, kind of a dead blow hammer type thing. If I were to make the rods, I would use some thin gauges brass or copper tube and pour the lead into that.

[fourarmed]

I made one to go in the stock hole on my Uberti Highwall. I found a piece of copper pipe the right size, set it upright in a brick with a hole in it, and poured if full of straight lead. When it was cool, I split the copper pipe with a Dremel cutting wheel.

I worried about shot oxidizing and swelling, splitting the stock.

[Duckiller]

Model 12 Duck guns (3") have lead poured in the butt. Think it was factory. If you have one and don't want to get beat up add more, either shot or solid. Lead is fairly inert in a stock and with a little clearance shouldn't cause a problem. It reduces felt recoil and helps you catch up with teal when using a 30" full barrel. Duckiller

[Blackwater]

I haven't done this, so can provide no testimonials, but I've heard of a fellow mixing up some standard 2-part epoxy glue, and then he filled it with lead shot. If you want to be able to get it out, wax the inside of the stock so the epoxy won't stick, and it'd probably be a good idea to sand the inside smooth, and with a little taper outward, so it'll be easier (and guaranteed) to be easier to pull out when you don't want it in. This is my idea, but if I did this, I'd put a little bent rod in too, so I could hook something in the protruding ring, and pull it out if some force were needed to withdraw it.

To sand the hole in the stock, and taper it outward, I think I'd get one of those sponge rollers at a paint shop, and glue the sponge part to a dowel rod of appropriate size. Then I'd compress the sponge roller and wrap with sandpaper. Might try some tacky glue between the sponge roller on your stick or rod, and the sandpaper, so it won't slip and the sanding will go a mite quicker. Chuck this in a drill and let time and grit guide you. Turn it at the bottom of the hole just long enough to smooth it out decently, and then slowly withdraw it about half the sponge roller's length, and let it spin in the hole a little longer each progressive step out to the back. It doesn't take much taper to make this glue/shot weight to be withdrawn easily, but there really needs to be a slight taper so you can be SURE it'll come out without too much banging and swearing.

Alternately, I think I'd line the hole in the stock with wax paper, using several turns of it, to make sure there's enough clearance so it won't get stuck by being wedged in at some point due to rough drilling of the hole. It doesn't take much to lock a rod in a hole, and I'd be sure I was able to get it out. If it rattles, wind some masking tape around it to eliminate that. Lots more preferabler (is that a word?) than getting it permanently stuck in the stock.

[redneckdan]

Lots more preferabler (is that a word?)

I think the word you are looking fer is "Mo'betta":-D

[Scrounger]

Being awfully lazy, I'd probably just put an old sock or cloth bag of some kind in the hole and pour shot into it. Easy out when you want. Let's revisit lead: any size hole at all could take 10 pounds or more of shot, which might make your rifle a bit heavier than you really want. Almost anything you put in there is going to be heavier than the air it displaces. Depending on just how heavy you want this gun, think about something lighter than lead: Sand; Navy Beans; Black-eyed Peas; Kitty Litter; Aquarium Gravel; Glass Beads. Marbles. Confine them tightly in the sock so there will be no movement.

[357maximum]

You could try drilling smal (like 3/16, 1/4 )in the stock under the pad and simply pushing pencil lead sinkers in the hole. Pencil lead can be purchased in most places that cater to steelhead, salmon fisherman, or some flyshops carry it. Then you could easily remove them if later desired. It is basically overgrown solid solder. Just a thought

[fourarmed]

A pure lead rod a foot long and an inch in diameter weighs a little under 4 lbs.

[montana_charlie]

Maybe the expense is more than using lead, but cerrosafe can be melted and simply poured into a hole in your stock. It is similar to lead in weight.
CM

[garandsrus]

Is there any reason I can't just use two pieces of wood that are clamped together with a hole drilled in the center for the mold? I think that the wood will scorch on the inside of the mold (based on stirring lead in my melting pot with a piece of wood) but that shouldn't hurt anything. The lead doesn't stick to the wood when I stir the pot. Will it stick to the mold?

I should be able to cast several pieces from one wood mold. It may be easier to make the weight in two pieces, each 1/2 the total length so that I don't need a long drill bit. I could even make a double cavity wood mold!

I would probably use a hardwood instead of pine so it would hold up better.

Thoughts?

Thanks,
John

[357maximum]

+++++++++++ATTENTION++++++++++

If you go with the wood(which I think should work) just be damn certain is TOTALLY DRY. In my youth I learned this the hard way making river sinkers with holes in board and paper clips for a tie point. Wood was moist, whoosh splash all over my face,neck, chest, and arms. Thank God I remembered glasses that day. For about two weeks I looked like I had the worst case of herpes ever seen, which was fun (for others) in junior high.



Yep even when you are young STUPID HURTS

[BD]

My DCM AR came with a 4 lb fitted weight which can be cut down to suit. If I was making one for a wood stock rifle I'd use a piece of one inch copper pipe, drill a hole the correct diameter and length and then fill the pipe with lead to suit. I'd leave the pipe in place to insure a good fit in the hole regardless of the amount of lead used. This way you can play around with the amount and fore and aft distribution of the weight until you get it just right. BD

[stocker]

I think I would try making them in two lengthwise halves and then rivet or screw the two halves together. A piece of pipe the right I.D. cut lengthwise with some end caps ( try two pieces dry hardwood, two redi-bolts to clamp the wood on the ends of the pipe halves). Fill the moulds with molten lead and skim flush with the surface of the moulds. You could vary the weight of the plug by shortening the moulds but still maintain the same over all length when you join the halves.

[lovedogs]

H&R offers a length of cold rolled steel to put in the butt of their rifles. Another easy way to make one of the weight you want would be to drill small holes in a piece of copper, brass, steel pipe or conduit. Drive a few small brads into the holes then pour the lead to whatever level you want to adjust the weight. The brads would hold the lead in place. File or peen the heads of the brads down flat. If concerned about the end of the weight pounding against a through-stock bolt you can epoxy a tab of leather on the end. If you want to be able to remove the weight place a washer over the outboard end of the pipe so you can reach in with a wire to pull it out. You'll have to take some measurements to get the length right.